Walts web site
Preping Flex Track on the work bench
Layout Panel with files
Scripts for controlling multi loco's
JMRI scripts for nonprogrammers
JMRI script function, expained for non-programmers
xml programming, how to's
Locobuffer to JMRI trouble shooting
PSRev to DS54
HO layout photos
Preping Flex Track on the work bench
Laying and electrical for Flex track
HO Code 83 Custome-line Turnout
Modeling tools and tricks

These are the details of how I lay flex track. Included are alternates and explanations.

I use three types of flex track connection.

First is the normal with two Joiners between each section(use A). That's in the center of this picture. This is used in hidden areas.


The second I call Patent Flex 83 and its the top of the picture(Use B).

The third I call REAL SUPPER FLEX 83 and its the bottom set(Use C). This pins show where the rail ends are. I also Weld these joints when in curves. More on that later.

The first step is to prep the track at the work bench.

The first thing to do is drill out the pin holes in the center of the track, I use a Dremel Tool and with a 040" drill bit.

If using rail joiners cut off 1 tie on each end.(use a)

If making "Joiner Less Connection" with Patent Suplex 83 I remove 3 pairs of ties.(the ties on the flex side are in groups of 2) This will allow the "fixed rail" thats going slide in to go far enough up the ties to stay in place. (use b)

When using "Real Supper Flex 83" I don't remove any ties.(use c)

Dressing the rail is next.

This eases installing rail joiners and helps when sliding rail thru ties, rail joiners and helps prevent derailments.


File to round edges at points indicated by arrows.

For use (a)and (c) the ends of all rails are dressed and for use (b) just the Fixed rails are dressed at this time.

For use (a) I use joiners and solder two section together. Makeing sure that the flex sides are together. I then solder feeder wires to the bottom of the joiners .


This is my soldering set up and procedure. The sections are sitting on a piece of steel. I had my local machine shop cut a grove in it the width of one rail and then cut a notch out for a place to solder two rails togeather. The rails are held in place by two magnets.

I use a 40watt iron. Just before heating the rail JOINER I use the sponge to wet the area. Then touch the Iron to the bottom of the Joiner well holding solder to the OUTSSIDE of the rail at the Joiner. When the solder melts remove the Iron and rewet. (You could solder jumper wires to the rail here) Now turn the two sections around, being very carefull, not much is holding them togeather and solder the other rail joiner.

Then turn the rails upside down and solder feeder wires to the bottom of the joiners. After soldering unplug the Iron and wipe the tip on the wet sponge.This will make the tip last a very long time. Leaving it pluged in will ruin the tip very fast. I plan on getting a foot switch that is only on when pressed. "Have never melted a tie using this method."

When laying a corner I WELD two peices of Real Super Fex 83 togeather. The process is "Silver Brazing" and requires the rail to be red hot. This is possiable with Real Super Flex 83 because the ties can be moved far away from the joints. After the joints are Welded they are stronger than the orginal rail and no more problems with rail joiner joints in a curve.

We are now ready to lay track.

Soon to be rolling down that Long Silver Rail

Enter content here

Enter supporting content here