Jan 17, 2001

san diego to ensenada mexico. safe at anchor sitting out remainder of front we thought had passed. lots of rain and wind on way here but in lovely hidy-hole where we'll stay for a few days. safe, warm and happy.

love, bill and sharon ps leif did great on his first night passage, tough one tho it was

Jan 23, 2001

Bahia San Bartolome, Baja California Sur - 1/2 way down Baja California: position 27 degrees 41.063N 114 degrees 53.217 W). Arrived Tuesday 1/23 afternoon after 2 nights/2 & 1/2 days at sea. Left Ensenada (60 miles south of San Diego) Sunday at 8 am and traveled in Pelagian about 280 miles en route to this stop. Smooth sailing through the day and that night, saw gray whales, dolphins, stars reflected at night in the water. Whales and dolphins caused a staggering blase of phosphorescence when they boiled up through the water during night watches (watches are 4 hours in the day and two hours at night). Incredible! Monday the sailing improved but by afternoon the seas had built into a large NW swell (which was fine) with a 5 ft sea chop imposed (not so fun). Slogged downwind, corkscrewing thru the water with these conditions Monday night and Tuesday until we arrived at Bahia Tortugua (Turtle Bay). Beautiful place, open and calm anchorage. Our fine cat, Leif, decided after being at sea for 30+ hours that he would have to get used to the motion and chaos: he came out, started eating, demanded affection and, in general, became a very well adjusted feline. He found a little squid on deck after we got anchored (we don't allow him out on the deck when underway)- he was so delighted that he brought in down to his feeding place where I (sharon) stepped on it. Will stay here as yet another front passes through - fine by us: it is lovely, quiet and a simple life here. The sky is literally on fire with stars at night! Please keep in touch, our sailmail is working great and Jerry is a fine webmaster and postmaster. Anything you send will get to us.

cheers and warmest best wishes, Sharon, Bill and Leif the ship's cat

Feb 2, 2001

hi sat out another nite of strong winds and after listening to SSB and HAM Net weather, decided to push on south. we're about 4-5 miles offshore, southeast of turtle bay as I write this. sailing under reefed main and staysail as winds are very strong below cuts in the shore topography. bill is on the first watch (we left at 0910 and it is 1300). i'm jammed in the salon settee, port side. pushed the table out to amidships and have my knees jammed against that to allow me to use the laptop as it is pretty ROLLY right now. First time I've used the laptop while in a seaway. On the feline front, Senor Leif has shown an extreme fondness for beef jerky which is a laugh. he's jammed into his 'rolling seas' position in the V berth. he and I finished the Bob Bitchen book, "Letters from a Lost Soul" during bill's watch. lost my best rappala lure to a patch of kelp/ actually to the wind gen which claimed it after bill cut the kelp off and I'd headed into 22+ kn head wind and seas, the rappala whipped up and into the blades of the wind gen. too much kelp to run the fishing rod now, we're standing about 4-5 miles offshore but still kelpy.

Running water maker and en route to Bahia Santa Maria, about 240 miles south- SE of Turtle Bay. we're now at Lat 27 23min N and 114 46min W as of 1306 on feb 2

more in a few days

s,b and leif

Feb 4, 2001

dropped anchor in Bahia Santa Maria at 0930 sunday, feb 4. We had some harrowing adventures in Turtle Bay before we left: a traditional schooner of well over 100 feet in length dragged anchor in the Santa Ana winds one night and just about pasted us! Such things happen and we always have someone in the cockpit for anchor watch when it is extremely windy but, geez: that was the second time this same boat almost hit us!! They were lucky to escape the anchorage with their boat intact as their engine did not have enough power to keep them pointed into the wind. They drifted sideways out to sea, barely missing some rocks after they missed us. We befriended some neat guys who came out in a little runabout that night: they came over to us to be sure we didn't need help (at 4 AM) and spend the remainder of the time escorting the boat in trouble, probably to pull the people off the rocks if they lost their boat. No Coast Guard, no Tow-Boat US, just some neat guys who took it upon themselves to check out the boats at anchor in a high wind.

Finally got far enough south to break out the shorts and the water has warmed up into the low 60's. Had a good passage of 48 hours (we slowed down last night to arrive here in the daylight). Only rough patch was some very strong wind and large confused seas about 20 miles offshore of Punta Abreojos ('Open your eyes' point) - this was from sustained Santa Ana winds. We were quite far offshore for most of the passage (over 40 miles) as the Baja Peninsula fell off far to the east. The night watches were lovely with a large swell rolling behind us, glittering in the moonlight. Sightings: unknown shark, dolphin splashing in the moonlit swell, blazing moonset over the open water, sunrises slowly pushing the stars away as another day begins... In Bahia Santa Maria (lat 24 deg 46 min, long 112 deg 15 min)we've seen magnificent frigate birds (and they are), boobys (yeh,yeh) and we're only been cleaning up and napping since we got here. With only two souls to take watch, we're pretty tired when we get into anchor. Will scope out the wildlife tomorrow. This anchorage is just as described: an open, wild anchorage with sandy beaches, no development, no people and lots of birds. The bay is about 20 miles across! There is only one other boat at anchor here, at least that I can see.

More later. Warm regards to all!

Feb 7 & 8: Bahia Magdalena (Man-o-War Cove) 24 38.014N 112 08.074W

We're only one day out (i.e North) from Cabo San Lucas, on the extreme tip of the Baja Peninsula. Left Bahia Santa Maria after dawn on Wednesday (Feb 7) and had a spectacular trip down, chock-a-block with whale sightings! Bahia Santa Maria was a wonderful home for a few days and the bay we are in now is, in fact, just over a sand spit from where we were but we had to travel 50 miles to get here going past a high ridge of mountains on one side and the deep blue sea on the other. Whales were apparent during the trip here (seems like a very short trip compared to the others recently). When we neared the place where we needed to turn past the point to enter the bay (Roca Vela), we saw a clear demarcation in the water where the color changed from cobalt blue to aquamarine. The potential for strong currents exists at this entrance and, as we had a minus tide that day, we found them or vice versa. Just prior to passing the color demarkation in the water, a gray whale surfaced literally right next to us, we could have touched it had we found any ability to think or act at all. My God, what a sight! And then, into what we started calling 'checkerboard square' when we sailed the Puget Sound: a place where tidal currents cause large standing waves and make the water literally stand up in large square waves all around us. Thankfully, we did learn a few things in the school of hard knocks of the Northwest and steered carefully through about 45 minutes of a powerful current.

We're in another extremely remote place where they have a generator which comes on at dark to power the handful of street lights and the few houses around. When we got to our anchorage, it was 3 PM, just when we know that the Capitania del Puerto closes office and we rushed and rushed to get the dinghy in to water and get to shore and check in with him, a very clear obligation. What to our wondering eyes did appear but a panga with Gregorio, the Port Captain! What a treat! In Ensenada Bill wandered over hill and dale looking for the correct places to check in but here, the Port Captain came to us, very unusual but we had heard from our friends Doug and Lisa on 'Mamouna' that this is a great P.Captain. He came aboard, did the paperwork, drank cafe cortado (coffee with lots of cream), ate some pan dulce (my banana cranberry bread) and we gave him some stuff for his cold and treats for his tres ninos. Sure wish I'd brought more stuff for kids but I still have some in hiding. We'll stock up on hard candy, etc when we get to a 'city'. Steve and Jackie: take lots of hard candy and gum. I thought I was out of room but there is always room for stuff that will bring a smile to a child out here.

We're doing well as is el gato. Sitting out another front in this very safe and friendly anchorage. A dolphin slid right by me as I sat in the cockpit late last night, basking in the moonbeams.

More later.

Feb 16: Man of War Cove, Baja California Sur (Still...)

Hola, amigos y amigas. We've been here for some time, at first simply enjoying the beauty of a place where gray whales feel at home enough to give birth to the next generation: the first reports of whales at the San Carlos area calving grounds came in a day ago. We've also been sitting out the Baja aftermath of severe storms up north. We've had winds of 30+ knots in the anchorage and at least 2 sleepless nights due to the waves that formed and the need for anchor watches. Oh well, gave me time to work on my knitting, the cat time to form more hair balls and Bill time to try and solve our mysterious 'missing electrons from the battery issue'. We have enjoyed getting to know the town, little tho it is, and have really enjoyed working on our Spanish as we've gotten more familiar with Gregorio, the Capitania del Puerto. More later on that.

Having set our alarm clock for 3 AM the last few nights but declining to leave after seeing the early morning weather, we are planning to push off for Cabo at 4 AM tomorrow, Saturday (Feb 17). It is calm, the predictions for upcoming weather are benign and the Port Capitania is undoubtedly tired of my poor Spanish and the fact that our 'Zarpe' or exit permit is long expired. So, we'll be in touch after we get to Cabo!

On an environmental note, there is a sailboat race underway from Marina del Rey (California) to Puerto Vallarta and two of the non-race boats (ie tag alongs) came into the anchorage this afternoon. We're sorry to report that there is a string of garbage trailing behind one of the boats - guess they think no one cares out here.

s/v Pelagian lat 24 deg 38.033N long 112 deg 08.051 W

Feb 20, 2001

Cabo San Lucas (end of the Baja Peninsula) lat 22 53. 42 N long 10.79W arrived monday 2/19, dated tuesday 2/20/01

Greetings from Cabo San Lucas. we're at anchor since yesterday after a 32 hour passage from Bahia Magdalena. Left before dawn with whales around us and in spectacular fog on the hills, good pictures we'll post on the website when/if we find an internet cafe here in Cabo. Good if rolly passage, the storms you folks are having are reflected in some uncomfortable seas, strong winds and overcast but it is WARM! Passage noteable for seas changing in temperature up to 67deg and also noting that we could take our night watche w/o wearing everything clothing item we brought aboard. Saw sea turtles for the first time, were accompanied by very large groups of an unknown type of small (6 foot), spirited dolphin jumping all around and also had the first comfirmed siting of a blue footed booby. Confirmed because the dopey bird attacked a lure out to catch an amphibian, not an avian, and we hauled him aboard (he was hooked thru a foot). After avian first aid (who says a vet doesn't have a job while at sea?), we released him with only a minor foot wound back to catch more lures. We both sustained "booby bites" until I could get him under control [small attempt at adolescent humor here]. The rounding of the cape was clearly an event: the seas changed into large lumps of water throwing us all around and about a gadzillion ill- mannered fishing boats zipped around us as we negotiated the confused seas, chasing dolphins for photo-ops. This out-of-touch behavior continues in the anchorage as jet skis, water taxis and parasail boats hauling people in the air zoom literally right next to us - welcome to someone's idea of paradise. We'll make lemonaide out of the lemons, though. We're about to go into the marina here to clean up the boat, get some laundry washed and hopefully call our kids in the states. First time since Jan 15 that we're not been at anchor. Only plan to be in Cabo a few days for the obvious reasons. More later if this email link works while in the marina - it might not due to electrical interference.

By the way, courtesy of a bowsprit and stern pulpit, this 38 foot boat will pay the rate for a 49 foot boat in this very expensive marina. Ah, well: we love Pelagian despite it. She brought us here safely, after all. Meow from Leif who is really enjoying the flying fish jumping all around us.

March 1st Los Frailes Bay Lat 23 22.78 N Long 109 25.33 W

Can't quite believe it is March already! This update is our 'truth in advertising' update. Or, as we were saying on the 45 mile trip from Cabo San Lucas to here, the price of admission may be high but some of the sights are truly remarkable. We started out from Cabo San Lucas at o-dark 30 to make the passage to Los Frailes anchorage, around the other tip of baja, with very calm seas and winds. As the afternoon wore on, both conditions changed dramatically and it was a rough passage on all parties on board and the boat herself. We ended up pounding into a very large swell with up to 30 knot winds on the nose, spray flying from the bow, coming up over the dodger and into the face of the sailor who had chosen that moment to look out over the dodger. While taking a thorough beating from the seas and the winds, we were simultaneously treated to some incredible sites: huge manta rays catapulting themselves clear of the water to somersault in the air; a pod of whales throwing their tails upward, enabling them to repeatedly slap the water with their flukes, some type of cetacean communication. When we set anchor, we were simultanenously dispirited from the difficult passage and inspired by the sealife.

So, here we sit with a monsoon-like rain pouring, the wind clocking around to a direction that may require us to leave for another anchorage and contemplating, once again, the price of admission.

Happy March!

PS: note to my sister, Carleen: thanks for printing out the emails and sending them to mom. Might be better to omit this one, eh? ;)

revision sent several hours later, after dark, of course: the wind and seas built in the anchorage to the point where they were unsafe and uncomfortable. we are now anchored on the other side of the cape which forms the Los Frailes anchorage. Lucky to have a 'sister' anchorage with at least some protection from adverse weather. This entire voyage has been marked changeable and occasionally severe weather. As Bill says when we are being tossed around by an unkind sea: Follow the Southwest Airlines Motto - Sit Down, buckle in, shut up and eat your peanuts. And, of course, keep your sense of humor!

Monday March 5, '01 Ensenada de Los Muertos (Don't look this up in your Spanish/English dictionary) Lat 23 59.35 N Long 109 49.66 W

As we received a fair-to-middlin' weather report last night on a local single side band net and severe weather is predicted in the near future, we left the Los Frailes anchorage a bit after midnight last night and dropped the hook here at 0930 today. Why leave in the dark? The trip was mostly to the North, basically the reverse of our trip down the other side of the peninsula, in the direction of the prevailing winds, and those winds are much diminished after dark. Delightful to have a largely uneventful trip here! We've taken to having an exit strategy for our anchorages actually plotted on the chart and programmed into the GPS so we can leave should the wind come into an anchorage from a direction which makes it dangerous (as happened in Los Frailes, where!! we did have an exit plotted).

The weather is very unsettled in Baja California and central Mexico as we are experiencing, while diminished, the severe weather we understand is pounding southern california. On last night's net, we heard that Zihuatanejo had over 50 knot winds, one boat slipped anchor and went aground and many others had to pull anchor and head out to sea while the front passed. In our little Los Frailes cove, as we told you in the last email, we had to abandon our anchorage and move due to a change in the wind. Well, at 5 am on the other side of the cape, we had to move back to the previous anchorage... such is life and it beats writing up a grant application to the NIH. And, yesterday b4 we grabbed some sleep prior to the night departure, three whales actually swam into the anchorage between us and the beach!! There is a deep chasm down the middle of the anchorage and they were ploughing it for whale-treats.

We will leave either shortly (if the predicted weather chases us out) or in a day or so for La Paz. Pelagian is in need of a bit of boatyard work for issues which developed since we left SDiego. The ever-present Pacific Ocean swell is much diminished as we go north into the Gulf of California, a welcome change.

More later and web site will have some new pics soon, will advise when they are posted.

Mar 31, 2001

Update, end of March. STill in La Paz, undergoing repairs to a very leaky bowsprit, courtesy of an anchor windlass installation by a certain boatyard in san diego. 1000$+ later (we added a few more projects) we are going to be able to leave the marina mid next week. We are enjoying the city a lot: the folks are wonderful, the food is inexpensive and delicious (especially the fresh vegies...) and our Spanish is improving daily. I (Sharon) have made some new friends and met some old ones (Phil and Diane of Belle Louise, our sistership from San Diego). Since I'm working on a land based computer, I've attached a few pictures which will eventually get linked to our website. We just may stay in Mexican waters for the year, perhaps returning to the NW for the hottest two months of the summer. We also met a fine couple who are on their way shortly to the South Pacific...hmm. so many decisions. We're doing well but a bit tired of marina life and ready to cruise again

warm regards, pictures are pretty much explained by the names

Sharon & Bill Jensen S/V 'Pelagian' wjensen01@earthlink.net

Monday, April 30, 2001

Update La Paz, Mexico Baja California Sur

At the urging of my mother, no less, I'm providing an update even though we are still in La Paz. Hmm: what's new? The HEAT - pushing 90F in the shade by mid morning, we've been hiding out in the mid-day doing projects below and catching up on reading. Why are we not underway? First, we had a carpenter remove the bowsprit [yep, you read that right, picture attached] to uncover the source of a serious leak that began after we had a new anchor windlass installed in San Diego - found out that they had totally failed to seal under the bowsprit and there were 5 large holes which happily poured water into our bed when we were in rough seas and taking spray. Once that was accomplished, in an impulsive gesture, I (Sharon) had a rigger inspect our standing rigging (mast, stays, shrouds, everything but the lines). I did this after some new friends, Joyce and Mike on S/V 'Nereid' [currently en route to the Marqueses] had an inspection and were most pleased with the work. Having an older rig [18 yrs] and in light of the fact that many think rigs should be replaced once a decade, and given the hard passage on the outer Baja, we chose to have an inspection which we FAILED. Nothing critical but not a rig one wants to stress unduly. She is suitable for Sea of Cortez/Gulf of California sailing but not for the rigors of true ocean work. So, we are in the marina, awaiting the parts under import from the States and working on varnish, our Spanish, our reading and most importantly, on making new friends and becoming reacquainted with previous ones (friends on S/V Moonshadow, Jackie and Steven and S/V Belle Louise, Phil and Diane).

We've had a great time meeting new folks here and are most pleased to become friends with the Shroyers who built this marina and run it to this day. They sailed down to Mexico many years ago, Mary pregnant with one of their now grown sons. Mary is a no-nonsense woman with a soft heart for children and fine literature. She and I became friends when we connected in an informal, two person exchange of books near and dear to each of us. What a fine connection! Mac, her husband, is the person who designed the ubiquitous panga (basic rugged, simple fishing boat) found everywhere here and around the world. He is a man of as few words as Mary is of many and we were delighted to join them at their home for dinner along with some other boating folks they've known for many years. It is interesting to see how two gringos built a successful business in Mexico which enriches the local community and does not exploit it. The two of them are extremely active in local philanthropic events (hands on type of stuff, not just throwing dollars at problems) and strongly motivate the cruising community to join their efforts. There are art projects for local kids where the supplies are provided by the cruisers along with supervision, days at the beach for the kids (complete with lunch), efforts to get clothes and books into the schools among many other activities. Fine, fine people doing good for the community. Refreshing!!

We're gotten to know the local area very well, complete with the butcher who hauls a side of beef on the counter to cut your rib roasts/steaks and the tortilla shop who sells you a kilo of hot-off-the-press tortillas for $1.50 US. Yup, we're Jenny Craig material nowŠ

Sights and Experiences: dolphins in the bay (photo attached) swimming alongside our dinghy: sunsets to die for: hot as He*l all day and then, just as the sun sets, a magnificent, predictable breeze named "Coromuel", begins as if someone flipped a switch, and it blows all night [this is the same strong wind which kept us pinned down in the southern anchorages but is a delight here]: the joy of seeing folks we met on the way here or in San Diego come into the area and the delight of making new friends whom we know we'll see 'down the road' (photo attached of this crazy couple and their FOUR Newfoundlands in a dinghy): scrumptious meals under the stars: learning to speak Spanish and having the time to sit on a bench with older folks I've never met, learning about their life and times in their language.

Plans: our daughter Julie joins us for a week of sailing and other adventure this week [yes!!]. Then, the rigging work begins as soon as the materials arrive which is a story of its own, the work lasting about a week. After that is complete we will depart to the upper Gulf of California to visit the islands and the magnificent scenery there. BIG change in plans, folks = having learned that we are both really uncomfortable in the heat and knowing that as we proceed south from Mexico humidity will be added to the heat, we've decided to haul the boat out in the Northern Sea and, gasp, ship it back to the Seattle area to continue our lifestyle. We'll be too late in the season to get to Alaska but will sail to the Canadian Gulf islands with what remains of the summer. Where we'll overwinter is unknown but it will likely be out on the Olympic Peninsula somewhere, perhaps Port Angeles or Port Townsend but, who knows, maybe we'll stay in Canada. We plan to travel north again as soon as the weather permits in 2002 and will spend the winter of 2001 traveling protected anchorages in the Puget Sound and the San Juan islands, as we have in the past. But THIS time, we don't have to be anywhere at any particular time!! As our arrival in San Diego was courtesy of the whims of corporate relocation for me, we are simply picking up an earlier dream of ours to retire [did that], gain ocean experience [did/doing that] and explore the Pacific Northwest all the way to Alaska. We'll see what tickles our fancy after we've scratched the NW itch. To be fair to the Mexican weather, many people adore the heat of summer here and we simply did not have any idea that we were such warm weather wimps (WWWs).

More later. Sharon, Bill and Leif (who also covets some cooler weather)

Sharon & Bill Jensen S/V 'Pelagian' wjensen01@earthlink.net

update june 1

Well over 100 degrees every day in La Paz. rigging is complete and we're out of here North into the Sea tomorrow morning. We'll be in Seattle by mid July after trucking the boat from San Carlos as we have a haul out date of july 2. We're very much looking forward to a month up in the Sea of Cortez: folks are catching dorado and other fine fish and we hope to partake in the fun! the sea is full of islands on the western edge and we will gunkhole our way up until we get to our crossing poing which is about 100 or so miles north of here. The crossing is west to east and is 70 miles or so. More as we go. We are very pleased to get out of marina life now that our repairs are fianlly complete - more later on the rigging. It is very hard to get supplies into Mexico - we waited 6 weeks for the rigging materials to get here, for example.

Warm (literally) regards

Sharon & Bill Jensen S/V 'Pelagian' wjensen01@earthlink.net

update june 10

June 10 ,evening Puerto Escondido lat 25.49 N 111.18 W

Arrived here at 3 pm from Aqua Verde (see below). Keyhole type entrance with depth as low as 8 feet to this all weather harbor also know as the hidden harbor as it really is hidden from many sides. Uneventful day passage of 6 hours from last anchorage. Water has warmed from 72 degrees to 84 in the anchorage. Our refrigeration and freezer are working overtime as are our fans. Towering peaks are to the west of us, quite striking.

June 6- 10 Aqua Verde anchorage lat 25.31 N 111.03 W

arrived in this beautiful, open but protected anchorage after about 6 hours under sail and also motoring in calm seas. spent the last few days dinking around in our dinghy, meeting some new folks, going into town to get while-you-wait tortillas made at 40 pesos for 48 tortillas (needed to restock, has become a favorite of Bill's) and some FINE fishing. unfortunately, even the lunkers got away, taking some tackle with them. Fished off a point called Roca Solitaria on a reef, really fun with a towering pinnacle overhead covered with birds and their offal (a bit fragrant). Nights were full of good southerly winds to cool things off from the high 90's of the days, phosphorescence in the water and stars overhead so numerous as to be dizzying. Sadly, the ideal anchorage came to a very bad ending for us. In the early afternoon of June 9, we had gone out in our dinghy for a photography and fishing expedition. We were well in the lee of a reef which had a tall rock topped by an osprey nest, complete with osprey, taking one after another digital picture, when... a fishing panga came literally out of nowhere at full speed at us. We were unable to either get their attention by shouting/waving (they were coming so fast the bow was out of the water and that was all we could see) or by going as fast as possible with our 15 hp outboard. We were hit square amidship. Bill was thrown into the water and I was simply run over by the entire 24 feet of panga, with outboard going over my full backside. The view before the collision was surreal: nothing but the wrong side of a full speed boat coming square onto us with no recourse but to duck. Thank GOD (and I mean this) that Bill was pushed out of harm's way into the water and the prop missed him and that I was ducked down between the pontoons of our inflatable. The panga literally passed over one pontoon, my back and the other pontoon, pushing us underwater as it went for a brief time. I am sure that were I to look closely, there is a handprint from the Big Guy on my back amid the bruises and contusions - from pushing me down to keep me alive. We are OK, very scared but alive, and I'm just starting to feel the aftermath of a propeller massage, complete with the Swedish panga treatment. Seriously, 6 inches to one side or another and either or both of us would not have survived.

As we all know, that is why one should always seriously consider eating dessert first. All we lost was our digital camera and a bit of hinny skin. Life is ever so precious compared to such things.

We're fine. Not to worry, just another story to tell the grandkids some day while rocking away by the fire.

On to Bahia Ballandra on Isla Carmen tomorrow.

update june 20

Wednesday June 20, Santa Rosalia Baja California Sur Lat 27 deg 20.45N Long 112deg 15.855 W Average Temp at night 85 deg, at day 95. Humid...

Greetings from our final stop on the northward trek up the 'inside' of Baja California (vs the Pacific Southbound passage made in Jan/Feb). Since last update, we've traveled about 150 miles with 120 of those applied to the Northward progress we needed to make before crossing the Sea to the mainland. Stopped at a beautiful anchorage at Bahia Ballandra on Isla Carmen - clear azure waters, wonderful fishing, beaches and fish watching (huge schools of fish looking all the world as if they jumped out of an aquarium). A quiet and lovely place which is also a nature preserve! Crossed back to the Baja side to a few one night anchorages as there were not many protected anchorages. One night we tucked into a small cove, Caleta Ramada, which really should only have had a few boats and crammed ourselves in with a reef to stern as it was becoming dark and there really was no where else to go. Wow - get to know your neighbors the fast way. From this little cove, we made a long day's trip up and around Punta Conception and into Bahia Santa Domingo. What a wonder: rounding the very large cape, we were surrounded by a pod of at least two or three hundred dolphins which we really failed to identify despite their avid attention to us. It was good to get out of the heavy and large easterly swell which had been with us since leaving Puerto Escondido - we were tucked around the western edge of this large land mass that marks the eastern demarcation of an enormous body of water, Bahia Conception. We did not go further south in B. Conception as the temperature has become punitive and all reports indicate that the bay is hotter than the surroundings. Tried to visit a small village, Mulage, but were blown out by a forbidding lee shore and the swell - too bad! Departed this morning (up at 5 am...) from Bahia Santa Domingo for a 45 mile voyage to our current location in Santa Rosalia. We've made lots of new friends and last night were really pleased to have dinner aboard M/V Akbar, a lovely and vintage DeFever. They ALSO have a Maine Coon cat like Leif, but MUCH larger. We caught up with our friends from San Diego, whom we last saw in La Paz, Steve and Jackie Gloor on Moonshadow. Fun to see them but we have parted ways again until we make the crossing to the mainland this Sunday night. That is an 80 mile trip we'll likely begin at sunset and finish the next day around noon. More before we leave and then after the crossing. We're busy preparing Pelagian for her upcoming de- commissioning in preparation for the truck trip to Seattle...

our best to all. we've healed from the 'liposculpture by panga' treatment in aqua verde. Sadly, we aren't able to take more digital pix as the camera did not appreciate the salt water bath it received when we got hit by the panga. Using a regular camera so will post these pix when we get to the states and they are developed and put on a floppy.

Web site is really looking good due to hard work by brother Jerry. Check out the picture link - it is great!

Update San Carlos, Sonora Mexico (Mainland Mexico) Saturday June 30, 2001 *Residing in air conditioned comfort, Room 401, Plaza Las Glorias Hotel!!!!*

Pelagian departed Santa Rosalia, Baja California Sur, Sunday night June 24 for the approximately 80 mile voyage to San Carlos on the mainland. NB: Pelagian was hit by a fishing panga at 3 am one night in Santa Rosalia anchorage (hit and run). The vertical support for the stern pulpit was destroyed, thick bolts were bent like pretzels, and by some miracle, no one was killed. Sigh.

Departing at 730 in the evening, the sunset was spectacular and our enjoyment of it was greatly intensified by the pair of humpback whales that joined us as we sailed off across the Sea of Cortez. The water was calm, the winds light, visibility great for this, our final passage in Mexican waters. Pelagian was joined by Moonshadow (Steven and Jackie Gloor) in a few hours as they departed Isla San Marcos. It was fun to see them depart the island in the distance and slowly overtake us on a converging course. The only other point of land we passed en route was Isla Tortuga, which we cleared a bit after full dark. A foreshadow of our voyage to come, the winds built as we passed south of the island, reaching the low 20 knot range when we cleared the eastern edge. The wind continued through the night, building and retreating, urging the water into a lumpy mass of waves and chop. Sigh. Thunderstorms were seen in the distance as the dark hours passed, growing closer as the Baja side grew distant at our stern. By 3 am, sheet lightening was visible, a line squall so intense we could see it on radar passed JUST behind us, shedding a few drops of rain in the cockpit and scaring the bejeebers out of us in anticipation of a thumping. Our friends on Moonshadow, now a few miles ahead of us, watched the same squall pass behind us on their radar and were similarly convinced that we would be pounced on by the weather. Lady Luck was with us, I guess. The sea state became progressively more miserable as the night passed and we had large beam seas by daybreak, forcing us to zigzag through them to avoid wallowing in the troughs. We were watching Moonshadow¹s mast sweeping back and forth as they struggled with the same unhappy mass of water which resulted from the consistent Norther all night. We had only a mainsail with one reef up and Moonshadow had a partially furled jib: we both would have probably been more comfortable if we were flying both main and jib, but the sea state was too miserable to go forward & raise the main on Moonshadow and Pelagian¹s crew was in a state of lethargy, choosing to ride out the mess and make no changes at the time. Dawn found us wallowing in a heavy sea in winds still 20+ knots. As the night passed, we heard on the radio that a storm had hit north of us, forcing some boats which had left Santa Rosalia to travel north back into Santa Rosalia. That must have been the genesis of our weather as we struggled with N/NW winds and building seas all night.

A vessel south of us, La Vie DaZan, contacted us off and on throughout the night and he was experiencing similar, unpleasant conditions. We were pleased to see this vessel as we approached the entrance to San Carlos as the entry was very hard to pick out in the lunging sea. The skipper, Dave, had been in San Carlos before and kindly allowed us to follow him through the VERY narrow entry which was hard to see in the rough conditions (did I mention it was hard to seeŠ). Approaching the mainland, the winds built to the mid/upper 20s, accelerating off the land. Our friends on Moonshadow were en route to a different anchorage and reported winds of 27 knots as they dropped the hook. We clocked similar winds before we sailed into the lee of the towering peaks which define the entrance to San Carlos. I describe the route into this area as Œthreading the eye of the needle¹. We anchored out in the bay, I took a dinghy ride in to the marina, and promptly almost fell on my rear as I stood on the firm office floor but my brain insisted that I was still in a heaving sea. We call this Œlandsick¹. I negotiated for us to enter the marina later in the day, returned to the boat and all promptly fell into a dead sleep.

This week was spend laboring from well before dawn (to beat the worst of the heat) as we prepared Pelagian for her voyage on the road. All sails came off and went below, lines, halyards etc were stripped off, the wind generator and solar panels came off as did the dodger and bimini, etc. Lots of work, most of it done in 100 degree heat and humid, heavy air. She was hauled out yesterday and is in ŒMarina Seca¹ or dry marina where the mast comes down, the bow pulpit comes off and Pelagian leaves Monday for the states. Bill ran into Keith DeMott, a friend of ours from San Diego, while working on Pelagian in the yard. We had drinks with him last night - he brokers boat sales down here! Keith and Kim live in Tucson where we travel to on Tuesday with Lynne of Chez Pene, and we hope to see them there.

That¹s it folks: hot, humid and as always, ruggedly beautiful here. Next update from Seattle! We fly out of Tucson, Leif in my lap, on July 5, bound for Seattle.

Update from Pelagian, Lat 47 deg 40.6 N Long 122 deg 24.5 W ( in Seaview West Boatyard, in the water) August 14, 2001

Greetings all and sorry for the hiatus in communication. Pelagian arrived in sunny Seattle July 9 after what turned out to be quite a boisterous trip from Mexico. After several days of our labor in >100 degree heat, Pelagian was ready for haul out to Marina Seca (dry marina) where final preparations for shipping would take place. The wind generator, mast, boom crutch, solar panels yadda yadda had to come down, along with the radar, etc. We had paid Marina Seca to finish preparation for shipping, including removal and wrapping of the mast/boom and running rigging. Upon inspection of the boat just before we left Mexico, Bill was unhappy with the wrapping job and discussed it in detail with the foreman, Jesus, who agreed that the job was not done well and assured us that there would be a rewrap. We were fortunate to get a ride from San Carlos, Mexico, with Lynne Tester off Chez Pene, in their truck, and departed after our conversation with Jesus. Once in Tucson, we we contacted by our kids who had received a message from the Navy Marine Search Coordination Center that Pelagian was in distress. Clever folks that our kids are, they assured the Navy that Pelagian was OK and then let us know that some bonehead had set off the EPIRB. A 60$ cab ride later, we arrived in the desert where Pelagian awaited transfer to a US truck and found that her EPIRB had been removed from its home in the abandon ship bag and TURNED ON manually, most likely by a curious customs agent (gee I wonder if this is a bomb...Nope, doesn't seem to be). We flew from Tucson to Seattle with a stone-Bhudda-like Leif in the cabin with us (the flight attendant assured us that he was more well behaved than 98% of her human customers). Moving from temporary residence to temporary residence (using up Sharon's zillion Marriot Miles), we finally were able to move aboard in late July. Shock to us: Pelagian's mast, boom and rigging arrived unwrapped and severely damaged from the transit over miles of road without protection. Jesus' response to the discussion with Bill was to remove all wrapping and send our mast unprotected over the road. Ick. The radar dome was carelessly tossed on the wooden floor, the rigging tossed in the cockpit, etc. To make matters worse, our insurance agent disclosed that he had never purchased the truck coverage we paid him for (yes, legal fees are accumulating).

Seaview boatyard was our home for a while during repairs to the panga damage (our main insurance covered that nicely as an 'uninsured boater' claim). We then moved to Miller and Miller boatyard for installation of a forced air heating system in our attempt to keep life aboard in the cold winter more pleasant. Finally, back to Seaview for the longgggg wait for the mast/boom repair to finish. The mast was stepped a few days ago and we are reversing the work done in Mexico to prepare for the trip (sails back on, wiring reconnected, etc). We hope to leave for parts North in the morning and will provide updates as we go.

The salmon run here in the NW is better than it has been for the last decade and we look forward to reaping some of the harvest.

more later...

Hi folks, better late than never. We finally got out of port in Mid may, are now on the Straits of Juan de Fuca (more later on that). Here is the update I meant to send a month ago. Pix are on the website, http://www.home.earthlink.net/~wjensen01/

cheers!

Sharon, Bill and Leif the sea cat Jensen

NOTE: This message is being sent almost a month late, another update very soon!

May 18, 2002 Port Gamble Bay, Washington Lat 47deg 49.94N Long 122deg 34.96W

Wow, what a long hiatus since our last wanderings. We finished various repairs last September (damage which occurred en route on the truck from Mexico to the US). Installed a hydronic water central heating system, painting of the mast and boom, etc - then left to go North but had to return when a family member became ill and was diagnosed with terminal cancer. Spent the fall helping her family care for her (home hospice - a story unto itself and a life changing experience) - ended up in Oak Harbor WA as it was the closest place we could find moorage to help this fine lady on her final passage. Oak Harbor marina turned out, rather unexpectedly, to be our home for the winter.

Oak Harbor is a nice community on North Whidbey Island near the famous Deception Pass, so named in the late 1700s by British sea Captain George Vancouver - he thought the bight of water was a bay but discovered that in fact it was a passage way which penetrated the north of the land mass he thought was connected to the continent - thus making an island, which he named Whidbey Island in honor of Ship¹s Master Joseph Whidbey, whom Vancouver had dispatched to explore the eastern waterways of Whidbey Island while Vancouver explored up Admiralty Inlet to define the western shore of the island. It was convenient for us to be at the Oak Harbor marina as there is a Navy base nearby where we have privileges and a library and gym in walking distance.

We purchased a VW vanagon camper and took several road trips during the foul winter weather, visiting Sharon¹s brother and family (niece pix on websiteŠ), brother Jerry, etc. Spent also some fine time with our dear friend in Idaho, Harriet Huseman. Sharon wrote some cruising articles which were published in three different magazines! Finally, spring is here and we left Oak Harbor behind on May 15.

We plan to take the next 6 months or so to explore the areas we have sailed before but never had the time to thoroughly explore. Currently, we are on the hook in Port Gamble Bay, just east of the famous mass of water known as Hood Canal - actually a 65 mile long, glacially carved fiord. The Bangor submarine base is located there in part because the waters are so very deep. We have in the past had the experience of a sub rising from the deep behind us, quietly scaring the heck out of us. Now in the sad post Sept 11 days, security is very tight and scout boats keep all boats far away from the Œboomers¹ as the locals call them.

So, more pictures are available on the website - some of the winter activities, including Pelagian covered in snow, the mistaken order from Starbucks (I ordered 4 five pound bags of whole beans only to be the recipient of over 100 pounds of beansŠ), photos of our fine feline friend Leif, who is much happier in the cooler climate up north and various and sundry stuff. Oh yes, the picture called Oak Harbor Barbie - the dockmaster took it upon himself to have the women¹s bathroom at the marina painted bubblegum pink, which some of the Œladies of the wharf¹ took exception to. He was ceremoniously presented with Oak Harbor Barbie by Sharon in honor of his fine taste and sensitivity - she is suitable clad in hot pink. What can I say, the winters are long and entertainment is hard to come byŠ

The waters around here seem much healthier than they were when we left 5 years ago - lots of gray whales, dolphins, salmon and other fish.

More later as the journey unfolds. Please let our webmaster Jerry know if you wish to be removed from this mailing.

Sharon, Bill and Leif aboard s/v Pelagian