This page contains some helpful RV Hints gained from our experiences to date.
Night Before. I typically start travel day the night before, getting some things out of the way. I dump tanks and stow sewer and fresh water gear (switching over to on-board water). The awning goes up, bike goes on the rack, lawn chairs are stowed, propane is shut off, etc. Inside, the dining chairs are secured (shock cords), shower door is locked, and loose stuff is put away. All of this makes for an easier, more relaxed departure the next day.
Travel Morning. Sometimes we set an alarm, but normally we let Nina wake us up. Without rushing or creating a sense of urgency, we intermix personal functions, breakfast and hitch-up steps. Typically, the process takes about an hour, sometimes longer or shorter (once we were on the road in a half hour). Pat generally concentrates on inside items and bringing in the slide, while I focus on the outside. The final step is always hitching up the truck, stowing the leveling boards and checking the lights. I always make a final walk through the trailer and a walk around before locking the door.
Safety Tips. A few travel related tips.
When we arrive in camp, the most critical step is positioning the trailer on the site. How level are we? Where are the hook-ups (water/electric/sewer)? Is there clearance for the slide? What about the awning and the entry way? More than once, we have unhitched only to have to re-hitch and adjust our positioning, a real nuisance.
Overall, it takes about a half hour to get set-up once we get the trailer unhitched. Typically, I concentrates on the outside (utilities, stabilizers) while Pat focuses on the inside (slide, unsecuring everything) and starting lunch.
Safety Tips. A few set-up tips.
I use the following checklist every time we tow. Even though we have become quite proficient, it still catches things that can be easily overlooked.
Inside Items |
|
| Water Pump - OFF Water Heater - OFF Refrigerator - OFF Climate - OFF / Ice Bail - UP TV Antenna - align / lower Fantastic Vents - close Dining Chairs - restrain Counter / Desk / Table - stow Waste Basket - stow Toilet Door - latch Toilet Bowl - empty / add chem Shower - no bottles / latch Scale - stow / Medicine Cabinet BR Closets / Pat Dresser - secure Cabinet Doors - verify closed Loose Items - secure all Slide - retract / wipe water? Lights - turn off Windows - verify closed Printer / Pat's Lamp - secure |
Awning brackets Final Walk Around |
Our tires (truck and trailer) are the single most critical safety element in our travels (along with brakes). We are a heavy rig and need to get the maximum from our tires. We pay close attention to them. Some thoughts:
Clogged toilets are no fun, at home or on the road. Our first summer ('00), we experienced five separate clogs over a period of weeks. Here's what we think caused the clogs, how we cleared then, and what we do today to prevent their reoccurrence.
While dry-camping for six nights at the Gillette (WY) Rally, we were trying to conserve water so that our supplies (70 gal. Fresh / 40 gal. Gray / 40 gal. Black) would last. As a result, we only used a little water with our bowel movements. We also had the Honey Wagon drain our liquids (but no flushing of the solids). As a result, a poop-pyramid built up in the black tank at the base of the 4" PVC pipe where the tank is only 4" deep. Draining the liquids allowed the solids to harden.
We tried everything. A toilet plunger just made a mess. A plumber's snake had some effect, but not enough. Fishing a water hose down the pipe into the tank finally worked, but not without difficulty.
Some RV toilets have a straight pipe down to the tank; these would be easier to clear. Our pipe has two 45 degree bends, meaning we have to fish the hose down and around the bends.
Here's our formula for successful bowel movements; apologies for being overly specific (have you experienced five clogs?).
Follow this process carefully. We typically dump the night before leaving camp, both to get this chore out of the way and to allow any fresh waste to slosh around while we tow the next day.
You must have a clear plastic 45 degree sewer hose connection with bayonet fittings (Camping World 16835) so you can see what's happening. You also need a black tank rinse/flush hose fitting.
If you camp without full hook-ups and have to use the campground dump station, you may not be able to do a complete flush and rinse job. In that case, be sure to run several bowls of water through the toilet after dumping to let it all slosh around while you tow. We will also fill a few buckets of water and dump them through the toilet as part of the dumping process.
We have used the Ultimate Sewer Kit (CW #14020) with success since day one. Its two 10' sections of hose have been adequate for almost all hook-ups. On a few occasions, however, we needed a third 10' section (CW #11420).
The most critical link is the Clear Plastic Elbow with bayonet lugs (CW #16835) that lets you observe what's flowing out of your tanks, both black and gray.
To support the sewer hose, I tried (and discarded) several approaches. First, I used boards and blocks; not very satisfactory. Next I bought the Slunky; what a piece of junk! While fine on smooth level terraine, we rarely see those conditions. (The similar aluminum RV Drain stand only works under optimum conditions).
Finally, I bought a 10' section of 3" PVC pipe, and cut
it in half length wise, and then cut each section into 7'/3' pieces (so
we can store them in our rear bumper). To support the PVC (which supports
the sewer hose), I made seven hinged A-frame supports of varying
lengths from 1x4 pine. Cut a 3" semi-circle of the top to support the
PVC. (See photo - Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs, CO).
This system works well under the real-world conditions encountered in different campgrounds. Keep a small level handy so you can be sure that your waste is running down hill.
[Note - May '05 - This topic was a major concern early on. Now with the new "05 Ford Super Duty, engage Tow/Haul Mode and forget it!]
An early concern was whether (and how) to tow in overdrive. Owner's manuals said "NO!"; Ford service people said "We don't know!"; some RVers said "Always!"; and other RVers said "Never!" (As background, years ago I had burned out the OD on my Honda Accord crossing the Smokies.) Gradually, as I sorted out conflicting advice, I formulated this strategy: "Tow in OD on reasonably level terrain provided you can maintain 55 mph/1500 rpm or more."
The definition of "reasonably level" varies significantly with weather and wind conditions. Some days, my '99 F350 would pull moderate grades with ease at 55 or higher. Other days, when there was adverse wind or heavy air, I couldn't maintain 55 on level roads. Sometimes, it may be just how the truck felt that day!
On moderate grades, I would ease up on the throttle to keep the engine from straining and try to make it to the rise; other times, it was obvious that the transmission was going to downshift to 3rd. If the grade was obviously beyond the "OD limit" for that day, I'd just lock out OD until conditions improve.
Excessive heat, caused by slippage, is what causes transmission troubles. At no time while towing in OD did my transmission temperature ever rise above "normal" (see below).
Hilly Towing. On a related vein, when towing in moderately hilly terrain, I locked out OD and towed in 3rd gear. 3rd pulled most moderate grades at 45 mph or better. If I was pulling a longer grade, and the speed was dropping towards 45 mph, I'd drop into 2nd, rather than let the transmission downshift on its own, as this resulted in a smoother downshift.
Now, with the '05 Ford Super Duties, I just set it in Tow/Haul Mode and forget it; the new transmission does the rest.
(Note May '05 - The new '05 Ford Diesel Super Duties automatically include Turbo Boost and Transmission Temperature gauges; a handy feature for RVers. I have yet to tow in any severe conditions that would cause the Transmission to move from Normal.)
Fueled by concerns about monitoring transmission temperatures (OD towing, using an Exhaust Brake, downshift braking, etc.), I installed US Gear's TorqLine Gauges (about $450 installed). The three gauges are:
Pyrometer (Exhaust Temperature) - Measures the temperature of the exhaust gases. Normal operating temperatures are 600-800. Very hard grade pulling may run it up to 1000. Above 1100, you're too hot and should pull over and let things cool down.
Ford's PowerStroke manual says you should let the engine idle for about seven minutes until the exhaust cools down to 300 degrees after a hard run (using a lot of turbo boost). This assures that oil continues to circulate through the turbo bearings until they have cooled down. With the pyrometer, I just let it idle until it cools to 300.
Turbo Boost - Measures the boost being put out by the turbocharger. Ranges from "0" to about "20" when you're really cranking. (Supposedly, PowerStrokes with aftermarket chips can generate much higher boosts). (While of interest, this is the least important of the three gauges.)
Transmission Temperatures - Measures transmission oil temperature returning from the oil cooler as it re-enters the transmission. The "peg" (lowest reading) is 140 degrees. All "solo" and almost all "towing" is at the "peg" (140). Up to 200 is fine; by 230, this should be your upper limit. Above 230 should only be for a few minutes under extreme conditions.
My transmission gets "hot" (200-230) only under a few specific conditions:
In all cases, as soon as you return to normal conditions (or get up enough speed to lock up the torque converter), the temp will drop quickly back toward normal. The transmission oil cooler does an excellent job if given half a chance.
The "tranny temp" gauge has clearly been the most important of the three.
During the summer of 2004, we experienced transmission failure twice! I wish I knew why. Towing out to the west coast of Vancouver Island on Route 4 to Tofino and Ucluelet, we encountered Hydro Hill, a short (3/4 mile) steep (18% grade!) hill. We successfully made it down with a combination of 1st gear and our Exhaust Brake. Returning to the mainland, we discovered that the eastbound side of Hydro Hill was also 18%. Nearing the bottom of the hill, I upshifted from 1st to 2nd and heard a "pop." A few miles later I knew we were in trouble as the tachometer was moving up and down erratically. We pulled over in the middle of nowhere, 45 miles from civilization. Eventually we were towed into Port Alberni where we spend eleven days awaiting delivery and installation of a rebuilt transmission.
I have no idea what caused the failure. There was no autopsy on the transmission although examination of the transmission fluid showed that it was blackened, a sure sign of excessive heat. The truck had about 108,000 miles on it, with about 36,000 miles of towing. I had done everything I knew of to treat the transmission well. It had gotten hot on several occasions but never for a sustained period.
Returning to Texas, we lost the transmission again 2,500 miles later just outside of Roswell, NM, where we spent another eleven days while the transmission was rebuilt. This time, the culprit was clearly a worn "slip yoke," the u-joint that connects the transmission to the drive shaft. It had a groove worn in it (that was probably there in BC and missed) that caused the transmission fluid to slowly dribble out as we towed toward home. Fortunately, the warranty on the rebuilt transmission covered most of the repair costs.
Is our transmission problem resolved? We don't know. It seems to work normally but there are a few minor telltale signs of lack of perfection. We'll see!
[Update - May '05 - In late 2004, while driving locally in the Fredericksburg area, there were occasional indications that the transmission might not be 100%. So, we decided to upgrade to the new '05 Ford F350 with its numerous towing improvements. So far, its been a joy.]
[Note May '05 - The new Ford Super Duties with the 5-speed automatic tow/haul mode transmission and integrated brake controller substantially eliminate the need for an exhaust brake. The transmission automatically downshifts sensing changes in speed and braking pressure.]
Do you need an Exhaust Brake with a diesel engine? My initial research back in 1998 revealed that diesel engines did not have the same degree of compression braking when you downshift that gasoline engines have. Thus, I had a US Gear "Decelerator" exhaust brake installed on our 1999 F350 truck (about $600). This was essentially a butterfly valve installed in the middle of the exhaust pipe that, when closed, caused a backing up of the exhaust gases and forced the engine to work harder and slow down when you took your foot off the gas.
After we picked up our trailer, I discovered that you actually got a reasonable amount of compression braking from a diesel. Locking out overdrive provided a modest degree of deceleration, while downshifting to 2nd gear (below 45 mph) or even 1st gear (below 25 mph) provided substantially more braking.
As a result, I primarily used downshifting to provide the needed braking on decents, and rarely used our service brakes (on the truck and trailer) except to occasionally bleed off a little speed. The exhaust brake was only used occasionally when we encountered an especially steep or long descent. While I'm glad that we had it as a "back-up," I'm not convinced that I really needed it.
The new Ford and Chevy trucks, with their 5-speed automatic transmissions with "Tow/Haul Mode" substantially eliminate the need for a supplemental exhaust brake.
This is a hodge-podge list of RV gear that you might consider.