We left town just after 5:00, westbound on I-70. Leaving the empty interstate at the Bakerville exit, we took the sometimes smooth, sometimes rough dirt road that winds up Stevens Gulch toward the Stevens Mine. We were in the area of the trailhead around 6:15. By about 6:25, we were on the trail. Actually, we were on the wrong trail. In the dim light, we had missed the Grays Peak trail, and started up a narrow path along the Stevens Gulch drainage. When the trail became difficult to follow, we finally consulted the map, and learned that the trail should have immediately crossed the creek to the west. Now, the creek — and perhaps a quarter-mile of waist- and shoulder-high willows — separated us from the trail. We tip-toed across the creek and started bushwhacking to the northwest. When we finally emerged from the bushes and struck the trail, my sunglasses were gone, and Donna’s legs were scratched. But the rocky trail seemed like a superhighway after the willow thickets, and we started off at a good pace. We followed the trail into the vast cirque between Grays and Torreys as dawn’s reddish light slid down their shoulders. Soon we stood where one must choose between the trail and Torreys’ rugged north ridge — and we marched up the trail, leaving the challenges of the ridge for another day. As the light improved, the dusting of snow on Mount Edwards and McClellan Mountain to the southeast reminded us that the high days of summer were behind us, and that winter was bearing down rapidly. The trail wound up to the base of Grays’ northeast face, then began its slow, devious climb toward the summit. Snow began to appear alongside the trail, and it became deeper as we gained elevation. We noticed two trails which didn’t appear on our map; both contoured across the northeast face, intercepting the low point of the Grays-Torreys saddle. The closer we came to the summit, the more snow encroached upon — and eventually covered — the trail, making for some steep, slick spots that required cautious navigation. During our rest stops, we enjoyed a fine view of changing aspens on the western slopes of Mount Kelso, to the north. Finally, the snow-clogged switchbacks brought us to the top, and a spectacular vista to the south, which we had been denied during our ascent. There were two rock windbreaks on the summit, and we joined several other groups in the larger of them. It was about 11:00, cool and breezy, with only a few fluffy clouds dotting the sky. Many of the taller surrounding peaks — all save Torreys hundreds of feet below us — had a light dusting of snow. To the south lay the peaks of the Tenmile and Mosquito ranges, and the Sawatch range sparkled in the late morning sunlight to the southwest, beyond Breckenridge’s ski mountains. To the west lay Lake Dillon. Looking to the north, beyond Kelso and Mount Parnassus, we picked out the peaks which form the Continental Divide to the East of Winter Park. We were unable to identify Mount Evans or Bierstadt to the east, however, as we had hoped to do. After a rest, some food and photos, we decided to head down, sparing Donna’s knees further abuse, and saving Torreys for another day. Somewhat reluctantly, we left the summit at about 12:15. Returning to the trailhead, we discovered that we had parked thirty or forty yards further up the gulch, and had to go retrieve my truck. That accomplished, we set about the delirious business of removing packs and boots, and attacking the liquid refreshments brought along in the cooler. A tiring day lay behind us, but one full of fantastic views, clear, cool mountain air and pika chatter. And our fourth fourteener was in the bag.

Warning: Mountain climbing entails certain risks and can be a dangerous activity. Many Colorado peaks have seen climbing fatalities. The most common factors in mountaineering accidents are poor judgement, inadequate physical conditioning and improper equipment. When faced with bad weather, fatigue or terrain that may be beyond your abilities, turn back. The mountain will still be there when you’re stronger, more experienced or better-equipped for another attempt. And remember: the summit is only the halfway point. Many accidents occur while a party is descending from the summit. If you climb, do not rely solely on the information contained herein. Do not assume that the route descriptions are completely accurate. The route descriptions were written after-the-fact from memory, and human memory is fallible. In addition, many factors (especially weather) can cause a route that is normally a “walk-up” to become a serious, hazardous proposition. Thoroughly research your route, have appropriate equipment, anticipate sudden and drastic changes in alpine weather, and know your abilities and limitations. Seek professional instruction before climbing, and build your climbing skills gradually: climb several easier peaks before attempting a more difficult route. Don’t become a statistic!

Text and photo(s) copyright © 2001 Mark R. Vanderbrook.
All rights reserved.