Introduction

There are many different types of “mountain climbing” available in Colorado... everything from gentle summer strolls up the grassy slopes of sub-12,000-foot peaks to daring winter ascents of mountains whose summits soar beyond 14,000 feet. There are many fine technical climbs, some in the higher alpine environs, others in the lower-elevation canyons of the Front Range.

My heart belongs to the heights. Ever since backpacking in Rocky Mountain National Park introduced me to the alpine tundra, I have been drawn to the heart-breaking beauty and the utter wildness of this rocky, austere world above treeline. Here, grasses and tiny flowers hug the earth for protection from the wind; the growing season consists of the few short weeks from the time the previous winter’s snows recede until the snow again blankets the peaks for their winter hibernation.

Depending on one’s criteria, Colorado is home to about 55 “fourteeners” (peaks which reach at least 14,000 feet elevation). While many are “walk-ups” which require only moderate fitness, many others require some degree of climbing skill. All require good alpine judgement! Since catching the peak-bagging disease in 1990 I’ve climbed 37 of the 55 peaks that meet *my* fourteener criteria. Click on the captions for the following photos to read the corresponding trip reports. Links to more trip reports follow the photos.

Photos:
Click on the thumbnails to see full-size images. Click on the links to read the associated trip reports.

Castle Peak - Climbers on the NE ridge approach the summit:

The rolling SW ridge of Colorado’s highest -- Mt. Elbert:

The N Face of Mount Lindsey:

The Homestretch - Longs Peak’s summit pitch:

One of the inquisitive area mountain goats on Torreys Peak:

Cloud shadows chase each other across spring snowfields on Uncompahgre Peak:

More Trip Reports:

• Food (trail mix; Power Bars^TM).
• Map(s) and compass. Optionally, altimeter and GPS.
• Water (at least 2 liters).
• First-aid kit, sunscreen, bug repellent and lip balm.
• Headlamp, candle and matches.
• Knife.
• Hats, gloves, raingear and sunglasses.
• Jacket. Fleece works well.
• Boots. Not tennies.
• Socks. Heavy outer socks and thin, moisture-wicking inner socks.
• Long underwear. Polypro, not cotton.
• Shirt and shorts. Again, avoid cotton.
• Guidebook. (See “suggested reading,” below.)
• Ice axe, depending on conditions.
• Optionally, fanny pack and camera.

Overnighters (Add):

• Tent.
• Water filter.
• Travel alarm.
• Sleeping bag and pad.
• Breakfast(s) and dinner(s).
• Extra clothes.
• Soap.
• Stove, fuel and matches.
• Medications.
• Pot, handle and spoon.
• Toilet paper.
• Trash bag.

Visit REI’s web site for more information on high-quality outdoor gear.

When planning a climb of one of Colorado’s fourteeners, I’ve found it most beneficial to consult several guidebooks. Since there’s a healthy measure of subjectivity in any route description, comparing two authors’ opinions of an interesting route often yields insights that are not present in either book. And often, one writer will include a route which another writer chooses to exclude. Here, then, are some of my favorite resources for planning my climbs:

Colorado’s Fourteeners: From Hikes to Climbs by Gerry Roach. If you buy just one book dealing with climbing fourteeners, this should be it. It is an excellent guidebook, with numerous and consistently accurate route descriptions. It includes basic information for beginners, and features alternative routes on many peaks for more advanced climbers.

A Climbing Guide to Colorado’s Fourteeners by Walter R. Borneman and Lyndon J. Lampert. Another good guidebook, but perhaps with less consistently accurate information.

Dawson’s Guide to Colorado’s Fourteeners (Vol. 1 and 2) by Louis W. Dawson II. A very valuable reference, although somewhat slanted toward the more advanced climber. Lots of good information on snow climbs, and advanced and “extreme” ski descent routes on these peaks. Volume 1 covers “the Northern Peaks,” i.e., the Sawatch, Mosquito, Front and Elk Ranges; volume 2 addresses “the Southern Peaks,” which include the Sangre de Cristo and San Juan ranges, and Pikes Peak.

Guide to the Colorado Mountains by The Colorado Mountain Club with Robert M. Ormes. Since it covers more than 1,200 hiking and climbing destination (peaks, passes, lakes and trails) this definitive guide is necessarily brief in its treatment of the fourteeners. Still, it’s an important resource, especially for those interested in custom-crafting a multi-peak outing spanning several days.

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills by The Mountaineers (Peters, Ed.). Ideally, anyone interested in climbing any fourteener route more technically demanding than the walk-ups on Grays, Sherman, the Mosquito Range peaks and their close cousins around the State should seek out basic climbing instruction before launching. Many inexperienced climbers, however, will not. Whichever camp you fall into, this book is a must-have compendium of technical how-to information, covering all phases of climbing. From preparation and equipment selection to mountain weather, from wilderness travel to rock, snow and ice climbing technique, this book has it all.

Other Links

Steve Parker’s Trip Report Collection - Lots of interesting trip reports, from various sources.

John Maki’s Colorado Fourteeners Page - John’s trip reports, plus some other valuable links.

Colorado Weather Forecasts - Courtesy of the National Weather Service.

Colorado Avalanche Information Center - No, not the hockey team, Martha.

Colorado Mountain Club

- Education, outings, climbs and more.

Warning:

Mountain climbing entails certain risks and can be a dangerous activity. Many Colorado peaks have seen climbing fatalities. The most common factors in mountaineering accidents are poor judgement, inadequate physical conditioning and improper equipment. When faced with bad weather, fatigue or terrain that may be beyond your abilities, turn back. The mountain will still be there when you’re stronger, more experienced or better-equipped for another attempt. And remember: the summit is only the halfway point. Many accidents occur while a party is descending from the summit.

If you climb, do not rely solely on the information contained herein. Do not assume that the route descriptions are completely accurate. The route descriptions were written after-the-fact from memory, and human memory is fallible. In addition, many factors (especially weather) can cause a route that is normally a “walk-up” to become a serious, hazardous proposition. Thoroughly research your route, have appropriate equipment, anticipate sudden and drastic changes in alpine weather, and know your abilities and limitations. Seek professional instruction before climbing, and build your climbing skills gradually: climb several easier peaks before attempting a more difficult route. Don’t become a statistic!