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THE WINES OF SUMMER
Dining Out Magazine, Summer/Fall 2004
If you ask ten people what makes a good summer wine, you’ll likely get ten different answers, but with one element in
common: a low-key, casual commitment to the enjoyment of wine and life, a belief that the beverage is a gift to be savored,
rather than a weapon designed to segregate those with taste and means from those without either. At least that’s what
I found when I asked six Denver metro area wine sellers to recommend summer wines and to reflect on the lands and cultures
that produce them.
The rolling hills, terraced vineyards and cream-colored villas of Tuscany are as rustic and elegant as the famed cuisine and
hearty wines. The cooking is simple, with no heavy sauces; just as in Colorado in the summertime, grilling over an open flame
is the preferred cooking method for meats and chicken.
Tuscany's most famous export is probably Chianti. According to Duey Kratzer, owner of Mondo Vino, if your experience with
Chianti is limited to the vinegary “basket of wine” on the table of your neighborhood red sauce joint, you're
missing out. Chianti can be a refined and assertive medium-bodied wine. He suggests Fattoria di Rodano, which is soft, round
and earthy, with the aromas and flavors of candies and cherries, and recommends pairing it with grilled focaccia, cheeses
or even a cold pasta dish.
A less well-known but equally worthwhile Tuscan varietal is Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a white grape, which produces a bright,
golden-yellow wine, redolent of peaches and pears, often with a bit of effervescence. Kratzer recommends Mormoraia, which
has a fruity nose and apple tones, an almond aftertaste and a hint of minerality. When asked what it should be served with,
his insistent reply is “definitely with prosciutto wrapped melon.”
Claude Taittinger, of Taittinger Champaigne fame, compares the sky of the Loire Valley in France to a Monet painting. Pam
Glynn, co-owner of Corks, finds the wines of the valley to be equally enchanting. She recommends any of several Chenin Blancs
from the central valley village of Vouvray. The cool climate insures good acidity, so the wines tend to be delicate and crisp,
rather than sweet, with a distinctly fruity or lemony flavor. They have a pleasant hint of flintiness owing to the high clay
content of the region's soil. Glynn suggests serving Vouvrays with grilled shrimp, lightly battered fish or sushi.
Glynn also suggests a French Rosé. Rosés have long been dismissed by wine snobs as somehow less than authentic or déclassé,
think Lancer’s green, fake-terracotta crock. Glynn contends that the better of these versatile wines go with almost
anything and are good year-round. “If you don't want a fully chilled white wine, but aren't in the mood to plunge into
a big, voluptuous red,” she says “try Chateau la Tou De Braud.” A blend of Syrah and Grenache grapes, it
is dry and fruity, but not sweet and goes well with casual or picnic food, like pizza, sandwiches or hot dogs. “It's
perfect with a BLT,” she says.
Manuel Sanchez, owner of The West End Wineshop in Boulder, recommends Spain's “variety of wonderful wines, some of which,
like Grenache, are competitively priced compared to their European cousins.”
When choosing a summer wine, Sanchez looks for “versatile wines which are lighter, aromatic and with enough fruit and
spice to match grilled foods or simple salads.”
Sanchez and co-owner Joanne Keys recommend Basa Rueda, a fresh and juicy white, with lime and tangerine flavors as well as
a hint of coconut. Serve it with cod, hake or snapper, grilled with seasonal vegetables.
They also suggest two reds. Vina Alarba, under $10, is almost purple, with a nose and palate of black raspberries and licorice,
and is fairly tannic with a slight minerality. Sierra Cantabria, under $15, is nearly black, with fresh fruit and vanilla
aromas and a lemony acidity on the palate. They suggest pairing both with poultry, duck or flank steak and a green salad.
Like Spain, South America’s varied landscape is ideal for producing varied and wonderful wines. Tim Burke, General
Manager at Colorado Liquor Mart, compares the wine-producing regions of South America favorably to California’s wine
country: “You have the same combination of ocean, mountains and vineyards.” He adds “don’t be afraid
of the prices, some of the great wines are around $8 - $10 a bottle and the decadent ones are $15 - $20.”
Burke recommends Alamos Viognier, “a very well balanced” wine with “a ripe aroma of apricot and peach which
follows nicely on the palate.” The absence of oak aging makes this a crisp alternative to “oak bomb” Chardonnays.
He also likes Casillero Del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc, crisp and clean, with ripe grapefruit on the nose and in the mouth, and
a lemony finish. Its bracing acidity makes it the perfect complement to barbequed salmon.
Burke also suggests a red which is a “fantastic wine for a summer BBQ with a great cause.” After losing their
mother to cancer, brothers Erik and Alex Bartholomaus decided to produce a wine in her honor, donating 50 cents of the sale
of every bottle of Two Brothers Big Red Tattoo to cancer research. The wine is “a monster red,” a blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot grapes and is under $ 8.
New Zealand is dismissed by some as a flavor of the month, but its cool, foggy climate is ideal for great whites, says David
Moore, owner of Divino Wines and Spirits. The long sunshine hours and stony soils of Marlborough province produce Sauvignon
Blancs that are characteristically grassy and herbaceous with a distinctive flintiness. What makes New Zealand's Sauvignon
Blancs stand out is their intensity. “Take the typical flavor profile of a Sauvignon Blanc and double it,” Moore
says, recommending Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc, $15 a bottle, which has aromas of tropical fruit and cut grass, with herbs
and, of course, kiwi on the palate, all wrapped in a “zippy, acidic frame.” Pair it with gazpacho or whitefish
fritters
Moore also suggests Lawson's Dry Hills Gewurztraminer, a flamboyantly aromatic, spicy white with flavors of musk, ginger and
citrus with a dry finish. He raves “This is the quintessential food wine, and a great wine to enjoy on your front porch
during the summer months.” At $16 a bottle, it is perfect with sushi or coconut prawns.
Another relative newcomer, Colorado's wine industry has exploded over the last ten years and now boasts more than fifty wineries.
“Colorado has the potential to compete with the successful wine producers of California, Oregon and Washington,”
says Cheri Lopez, store manager of The Vineyard in Cherry Creek.
Lopez likes the award winning Carlson Vineyard Riesling, which is a light-bodied, low-alcohol wine, making it a good choice
for summer thirst-quenching. It is floral and fruity with hints of peaches or pears, and a refreshing undertone of natural
acidity gives it a “wonderful zing.” Lopez suggests serving the Carlson Vineyard Riesling with salads, fresh fruit
and cheese, or stir fry.
Another favorite at The Vineyard is Terror Creek Winery Chalet, a light red wine made from a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir
grapes. Similar in character to Beaujolais, it is fruit forward, redolent of cherries and berries. This light-bodied red is
perfect with grilled salmon or poultry, served slightly chilled to enhance its fruitiness.
All of these diverse wine cultures share a common and persistent, though perhaps anachronistic, world view: a commitment
to savoring life’s flavors and taking pleasure in its many gifts, like the pleasure of a summer evening with close friends.
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