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No. 6435
Tweaks, Contact
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No. 6435 | Overview | Starting Line | Arrival | Deconstruction | Beneath Decks | First Night's Spin | Listening To Plinths | Motor | System : The Tonearm | Tweaks, Contact | Articles | Bookshelf | Links | More Links | Transit | Next
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What I'm after is to keep motor rumble travelling --- conduct it, punch it's
ticket, make sure it doesn't leave any baggage behind at the station--- and send it on it's way.
If it manages the whole trip and exits at the spikes, cones, or the Aurios
I'm now using, great. Sayonara, keep moving. If it falls asleep on the trip and kind of just zones out and deteriorates to
nothing on it's way thru the plinth..... Fine, as long as it doesn't wake up again.
What I'm not after is having the motor rumble bouncing back off a
weird boundary layer or pinging off steel fasteners and coming back in a time & phase shifted way to the armboard. In
my previous plinth I ended up using hardwood pegs to attach the armboard for a similar reason. Steel (I tried it) conducted
some aspect of audio-band motor rumble directly to the armboard it was fastening.
What I'm also not after is any detour or translation taking place with the
motor signature, hence no 'contrast' layers for me in the plinth -- whether similar to the birch ply or dissimilar, like
lead. The glue I'm using, which luthiers use for difficult bonding chores like violin bodies, does more to integrate
adjacent layers, and fuse them physically and sonically ...than it does to form any intermediary layer.
The 'purist' (take w/ grain of salt, everybody's a purist, and nobody agrees)
approach I'm taking on my current project is : Baltic Birch only, hardrock maple armboard, hide glue only, roller bearings
for footers. Wide and deep (20x24"), but not too (3.75") thick, keeping that heavy motor very low to the ground, and very
seriously rigid.
Every plinth maker seems to want the 'Only Way To Do It' crown for his way,
which is ridiculous. I will, however, mention the following :
Nine out of ten articles about 301/401 practices properly mention that the
Japanese are roundly regarded as the sponsors of the Garrard 301 Rennaisance that took place somewhere around the mid-eighties,
just as we here in the enlightened West were discovering Compact Disc to our extended delight.
If you take a long trip thru the Japanese sites that show a 301/401 being
used in Japan, most are in plinths of stacked ply & glue. Coincidence
? Possibly. Can it be done other ways ? Very definitely could be, but isn't. Conclusion
? Your call.
One last thing to wonder about is why Shindo-San doesn't do birchply plinths,
when in fact he knows quite a lot about the issue. I think the answer there has to do with the fact that he's in the business
of selling $20K super-luxe iterations of the 301, and can afford, in those budget confines, to be more luxurious with every
phase of design and materials.
It should be mentioned that the 301 game is largely one of tracking and re-routing
vibration pathways, and the motor-leads are one of the primary venues for motor vibration. Which wants to be either A) handled
by the six motor suspension-springmounts or B) safely routed down and away, into plinth, rack or beyond.
So here goes ................. The
little bakelite 'junction box' for the AC feeds and voltage-strapping is attached to a section of fiberboard by a threaded
machine bolt which has several nuts (to attach to the fiberboard, to attach the 'strap' section, and then to attach the bakelite
cover.)
Adjacent to that machine bolt-- kind of 'behind' the box-- is the lower-motor-cover
fixing bolt (that on some models has the ground tag). So if the bolts in question TOUCH they are creating (by de-isolating) a vibration-loop
that would be unintended and deleterious to the noise levels. If these two bolts are transferring energy, it's raw unsuspended
motor pulse, and they're nulling a kind of iso-mount.
It's pretty logical to me that since one of the common things that get changed
on a 301 during it's lifespan is the mains cable, and that the junction-box fixing bolt may get backed up into the motor unnoticeably.
It needs only to be backed away incrementally so it no longer touches, then tightened again. * * * * *
A list of recommended
tips, adjustments, modifications and general-practice info that doesn't appear elsewhere on this site. Please contact with any contributions you may have. |
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