SCENES ALONG THE
CIMARRON & TALL TIMBERS RR
By
Tom Troughton, MMR
Part 2
Photo 13.
The second layer was glued directly to the first one by covering the seams of the lower one with the top one. I had to make a slight adjustment to the width of some of the pieces with a sanding stick to maintain the overlap.
Photo 14.
There are laser scribed guide lines on the cardboard roof piece, but they're there to be used as guide lines and not exact alignment lines. I used the laser cut paper shingles included in the kit to represent cedar shakes, but you may wish to use something else.
To have a sharp fold at the peak of the roof, I used the point of a modeling knife and carefully deepened the laser scribed fold line on the roof being careful to not cut completely through the paper.
To prevent any warping that might be caused by the glues and adhesive used later on in the process of applying the paper shakes I coated both sides of the roof with acrylic polyurethane.
I've found it easier to apply paper shakes while the roof piece was still un-attached from the building. 3-M Super 77 Spray Adhesive was sprayed on the roof and the paper shakes were added, one row at a time, using the point of the knife blade to position them in place.
Photo 15.
I didn't attach the final rows of shakes near the peak. They would be added after the roof was firmly attached to the building.
Photo 16.
The shingles were then painted with Polly Scale Grimy Black paint before it was attached to the building.
Photo 17.
I also painted a small portion of the underside while it was easy to do.
Photo 18.
The two interior roof forming braces were fastened in place with yellow carpenter's glue.
Photo 19.
The roof was attached to the building with white glue and held it in place with weights until it was firmly attached. The final rows of roofing were glued in place with more white glue and covered with thin strip from the edge of the shake sheet to form a final course of roofing material across the peak.
I used the point of the knife to cut out the opening for the vent pipe though the shake material, then test fitted the piece of styrene pipe material in the hole to make sure it fit.
Photo 20.
The plastic vent pipe was painted and cut it to length next. I used the point of the knife blade to remove any burrs left on the inner opening of the plastic tube. I left about 2 scale feet of it extending above the peak of the roof. 5-Minute was used to secure it to the hole, but any of the CA adhesives would probably work too. Once I had it vertical, I let the epoxy harden. I then used the point of a needle to carefully apply a small amount of Epoxy around the joint between the pipe and the shakes. When it had hardened, it was painted black to look like sealing tar.
Photo 21.
I originally had made some MEN and WOMEN signs on my computer and glued them to short pieces of the 1" x 10" strip wood. However, after talking to Bill Banta, he told me he had found a photograph of the structure with the words, "HISN" and "HERN" on the end walls.
Photo 22.
I removed the MEN & WOMEN signs and printed out and attached HISN and HERN signs in their place.
Photo 23.
I used a small amount of powered pastel chalk to add additional weathering. The building was attached to a small piece of Gator Board and a short section of track was glued in place.
There was a wooden plank platform between the ties and the doorway openings in the privacy partitions for the passenger's comfort. The kit doesn't include any extra strip wood for any of the exterior planking, but most of us have scrap pieces sitting in our strip wood supply bins if we want to add this feature.
