SCENES ALONG THE
CIMARRON & TALL TIMBERS RR
By
Tom Troughton, MMR
Part 1
This is a brief look at the Banta Model works, Telluride Depot Outhouse and Tool Shed kit. I had the honor of building the test model and writing the assembly instructions. The following photos and text are an abbreviated version of that process.
Anyone who's been in the model railroading hobby for a while already has the basic modeling tools and skills necessary to complete this kit. A modeler's knife, razor blades, white and/or yellow Carpenter's glue, CA adhesives, quick setting Epoxy, small paint brushes and your favorite brand of paint can all be used in it's construction.
Begin by painting all the wall components, peel and stic board and batten pieces and vents while they are still attached to their carrier sheets. Because I was concerned that water base paints might caused the bass wood wall to swell and warp, these parts were sealed with a wood sealer first. The sample model was painted with acrylic craft type paints, beginning with a gray base color first. A depot buff color was added over it, allowing some of the gray to show through at the lower edge as a weathered effect.
Photo 1.
The peel and stic board and batten pieces were attached next, lining them up with the door openings.
Photo 2.
The end wall with the two vents was attached to the floor first. This piece must be mounted on the end of the floor that has slots inset 1/4" from the edge.
Photo 3.
The two vent cut-outs and their sills were installed in the end wall after it was secured to the floor, but it would have been easier to add them while the wall was still a separate item. Their peel and stic joints were reinforced with a few drops of Dr. Mike's CA adhesive.
Photo 4.
The side walls went on next, then finally the end wall with the tool shed door.
Photo 5.
I wanted to have the tool shed door in an opened position so I installed it while I could still reach inside to apply glue.
Photo 6.
The thin, laser cut exterior privacy partitions were glued on next, keeping their ends vertically positioned against the main building's side walls.
Photo 7.
To reinforce this fragile piece of wood work, a laser cut center brace is installed midway between the side wall and the privacy partition frame.
Photo 8.
To provide a support for the roof pieces, a 4" x 4" piece of strip wood was cut and glued to the side wall of the main building. I laid a short metal straight edge across the ends of the partition to help align it but there's a laser scribed line on the wall to help position it also.
Photo 9.
The small peel and stic pieces of board & batten material were attached to the side wall at the ends of the privacy partitions. A small amount of sanding and test fitting was needed to create a tight fit.
Photo 10.
The 1" x 10" strip wood was colored with my black shoe dye and alcohol mixture. When dry the pieces were cut to length and glued to the laser cut framework of the side partitions, beginning at the edge of the angled end pieces and working my way around to the other end.
Photo 11.
The side partition roofing is made with two layers of the 1" x 10" strip wood. I decided to have a scale 4" overhang on the test build model.
Photo 12.
I made a tiny notch in the roofing pieces that butt up against the board and batten material.
