This kit started out with several envelopes of strip wood and five pieces of laser cut side and rear walls which have one surface covered with a "Peel and Stic" material. The strip wood for the exterior walls was divided into three equally sized piles and colored with Folk Art brand "Rusty Nail" acrylic craft paint in an aluminum photo tray with a 1" wide brush. One third of the wood received straight Rusty Nail, the 2nd third had a few drops of Black added while the 3rd batch received a few drops of Brown Oxide.

I also used these same color combinations on the battens and edge trim. When all the reddish colored wood was dry, white paint was dry brushed on one side of all these pieces with a smaller brush.

Photo 1. This exterior view shows of one of the side walls before the battens and windows have been added.

Photo 2. This is the interior side of the same wall showing the excellent laser cut framing.

Photo 3. Overall view of the basic structure. The windows have been added and the interior walls have been sprayed with a dusting of Floquil Grimy Black.

Photo 4. A small machinists square and a square block of steel were used to keep the interior columns vertical as the glue set.

Photo 5. The center beams have been added along with their supporting columns and braces. Some of the roof rafters have been installed.

Photo 6. Here's an overhead view of the rafters being installed. Tiny clothes pins aid in obtaining a solid glue joint.

Photo 7. The engine house is starting to come to life in this low level view of the interior showing the beams, braces and some of the rafters in place.

Photo 8. All the rafters are now in place. I used the three roof pieces to determine where the holes and frames for the six exhaust vent structures would be located. Small pieces of paper were glued to the rafters to help in this process. If the roof was going to be attached permanently, these time comsuming details could have been skipped, but since this is a display model, I decided to make the effort and put them in since they enhance and add to the rafter design.

Photo 9. Five in, one to go. I used some really neat clamps to help in this phase of the project.

Photo 10. Here's a little closer view of one of the vent frame elements being held in position while the glue sets. After all the rafter and vent hole components were installed, I applied some of my 50:50 white glue and water solution to reinforce each rafter and vent frame joint.

Photo 11. The building was removed from the Gator Board by sliding a razor blade under the foundation boards. At this phase, the building would set too low and the bottom edges of the doors would not clear the rail heads. To raise the base of the foundation up to rail head level, I cut some pieces of bass wood, glued them into position and painted them with Polyurathane so the scenery glue/water solution wouldn't loosen them. Three pieces of Tomalco Sn3 weathered track were attached with Liquid Nails for Small Projects. The model base is now ready for some ground cover.

Photo 12. The interior floor is a mixture of dirt, ground up limestone rock and white glue. The exterior is more dirt, Chama, CO. cinders and Woodland Scenic ground foams.

Here's a series of views of the building without captions.