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Backpacking Advice for Young Families
 
Recently I responded to a reader's inquiry about which Smokies trails and campsites might be well-suited for first-time backpacking and camping for a family with children.  In the column on the right side of this page are my recommendations for backpacking in the Smokies with your family:

Spend your first night (or two) in a primitive campground like the ones at Cosby, Big Creek, Deep Creek, Elkmont or Smokemont.  Use only your backpacking gear and try to avoid use of the car as storage for food, clothing, etc.  Note:  You'll still have to store your food in the car since Smokies campgrounds generally do not offer food storage lockers or hanging cables--just try to be realistic about the experience--avoid using the car as a "crutch." 

This is an excellent way to perfect your gear list and to give everyone a taste of living out of a backpack.  I suggest you actually combine this method with a little out 'n back hiking with the loaded backpacks both before and after the first night in a campground.  This is great advice for anyone and works wonders toward helping people decide what clothing & gizmos they must have vs. can do without. 

Shelters
 
I think all backpackers should plan to stay in a shelter at least one night.  You'll be able to leave your tent in the car.  If you are here during April and early May then don't plan to stay in any of the shelters along the AT--too many AT thru-hikers will be planning to use them and you'll find yourselves in a full house every night.  The shelters are also usually full during weekends. 
 
Which shelters?  Easy access can be had for these:  Icewater Spring, Mt. Collins, Davenport Gap and Kephart (Kephart is on Kephart Prong trail--not on the AT).  A bit more difficult to access because of all the driving but definitely a special place is Laurel Gap shelter along Balsam Mtn trail.  Ones which might look easy to get to but which ARE NOT include Spence Field, Double Spring, Siler's Bald and Cosby Knob.  Getting to these last four shelters requires a lot of hill climbing and until all in your party have more experience with backpacking they should be bumped down the list. 
 
Kephart Prong trail & shelter might be my choice--I love its historical artifacts, very old footbridges and ease of access.  The trail does tend to be a bit rocky but not so much as to avoid it.  Kephart shelter is also less visited than other shelters on the AT.  If you are here during the hot weather months then Laurel Gap would be my hands-down recommendation for a true wilderness experience and upper elevation cool temperatures.
 
I hope these offer you something to think about.  There are lots more options but I think any of these would be a winner.  Remember there are several rules and procedures to be followed when backpacking and overnight camping in the Smokies.  All backcountry camping requires a permit and some campsites require advance reservations.  Call ahead to be sure the campsite you are planning to use is open and to get up-to-date trail information.
 
Smokies Hike Planning

Trails in primitive Smokies campgrounds which would be good to backpack--either as a trial walk or as a "real" backpacking trip include:  

  • Cosby:  Lower Mt. Cammerer trail to #35; Gabes Mtn trail to #34 (avoid Low Gap and Snake Den Ridge trails--they are too steep and rocky for backpacking)
  • Big Creek:  Big Creek trail to #37 (reservations required).  This trail is an old roadbed and is heavily used by horse riders.  However, Big Creek is a lovely stream and offers lots of cascades and swimming opportunities.   The first few miles of Baxter Creek trail offer a nice out 'n back side trip and is one of the best wildflower hikes in the Smokies.  Avoid Chestnut Branch trail (too steep).
  • Deep Creek:  I don't recommend overnight hiking for the new backpacker along any of the campsites on Deep Creek trail, however, the Deep Creek campground is a good place to practice your techniques and still be close to places for good hiking.  I like the lower portions of Deep Creek & the full length of Indian Creek trails--both are old roads which follow lovely creeks.  Deep Creek continues as a single-track trail for several miles and becomes quite hilly.   It was my first trail to backpack in the Smokies and I thought it was going to kill me (crossing all of those finger ridges--up/down/up/down, whew!).  Bryson City is no Gatlinburg but does offer a lot more than Townsend in terms of restaurants (but just barely).
  • Elkmont:  In Elkmont I like hiking up Little River trail and then along Goshen Prong trail to #23.  Goshen Prong offers some of the most beautiful creek views in the park and the hiking grade for this route is gradual.    Avoid Jakes Creek trail (too steep)
  • Smokemont: Hike the Bradley Fork trail all the way to Cabin Flats trail and then to #49.  Avoid weekends if possible (lots more horse riding then).  #50 (reservations required) is along this route and is much closer but is somewhat overused.   Avoid Chasteen Creek trail (too steep and rocky for backpacking).  Smokemont Loop is a good trail to test your hill climbing abilities.
More Trails & Backcountry Campsites
 
In the Greenbrier area consider: Grapeyard Ridge trail to #32 and Porters Creek trail to #37.  Going to #32 I'd actually take the unofficial but well-used trail I call Injun Creek trail located at the metal vehicle gate beside the ranger station for Greenbrier.  The trail leads directly to #32 and is less hilly than Grapeyard Ridge trail.  Continue beyond campsite #32, turn left, up the hill, along Grapeyard Ridge trail (back toward Greenbrier) and walk about 1/2 mile where you'll see the old wrecked steam engine ruins laying in the bed of Injun Creek.
 
In the Bryson City area I like a trip out along "The Road to Nowhere", properly called Lakeview Drive, to its end at the tunnel.   Park there and hike Lakeshore trail to #74.  Base out of #74 and hike up Forney Creek trail.  Campsites #70 & #71 along Forney Creek trail are also nice options but do require quite a bit more backpacking and it might be too much for first-timers.  Walking thru that long dark tunnel with your family will be a long-remembered experience. 
 
Noland Creek trail is another good option--the trail is an old roadbed and offers gentle grades, lovely creek views, old ruins, bridges and cemeteries.  There are several backcountry campsites along Noland Creek trail but note that hiking to sites #61 & #62 require fording the creek (no footbridges).  You park about 1 mile before the end of Lakeview Drive if you are hiking Noland Creek trail.
 
Cades Cove has options but I don't think of it as offering any good trails for the beginning overnight backpacker.  There is a primitive campground at Cades Cove and a dayhike (without backpacks!) up to Spence Field and maybe even continuing on to Rocky Top would be a good trip (strenuous).  One option that would be acceptable for a beginning backpacker would be a short segment of Gregory Ridge trail.  Take the gravel road called Forge Creek Road (located in the back corner of the Cades Cove Loop--right at the visitor center road junction).  Forge Creek Road dead-ends in a parking lot right beside the start of the 8 mile long Parson Branch gravel road that exits the park to US 129.  Park in the lot and hike up Gregory Ridge Trail to backcountry campsite #12.  I don't recommend backpacking up to Gregory Bald for the new backpacker (too steep).  Be aware that you'll be locked-in the Cades  Cove loop area at night (between sunset and sunrise they lock the gates on the roads).
 

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