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This isn't a story about fishing or camping but it is
a hiking story that may clue you to one of the prettiest little creeks in the Smokies: Fish Camp Prong.
Two strikes before breakfast and the "Never Channel"
Thursday, 10/25/07, started without a plan at my house.
First I telephoned my mother who lives in Walland but she insisted that the Weather Channel Gurus had spoken: We
were going to have a rainy day. With such a gloomy weather outlook, she declined my invitation
to take an early morning drive thru Cades Cove. I tried in vain to convince her that the "Weather Channel"
should be named the "Never Channel" because it "never" gets the weather right for our part of the country. Strike
one. I hang up and dial my girlfriend. Without explanation she politely declined my invitation
to go hiking. Swish. Strike two! Gosh, two strikes against me already--before
breakfast!--so, I stepped away from the phone and reloaded my daypack with food and water. My next swing was a
homer as I embarked on a solo trip to hike along one of the most surprising routes in the Smokies: Goshen Prong
trail.
Not many people hike Goshen Prong trail. It gets
pushed down near the bottom of the "trails to hike next" list perhaps because hiking guides talk about how steep and rocky it
is as it climbs over 3,000' along its 7.7 mile run to the AT near Double Spring Gap. Or maybe people stay away
because of the fear of being mauled, killed and eaten (hopefully in that order?, gulp!) by bears--like the unfortunate woman
who had such an encounter in 2000 at the place where Goshen Prong trail crosses the Little River. Folks should
reconsider. Goshen Prong is a lovely trail and a pleasure to hike--especially if you do it from high to low. And
I've yet to be eaten by a bear.
Hitching a Ride
Without a hiking buddy to provide a 2nd car I elected to park at the Little River trailhead
near Elkmont and hitch to Clingman's Dome where my hike would begin. Only 45 minutes after getting out of my car
in Elkmont, I thanked the 3rd couple to give me a ride as I was deposited at the Clingman's Dome parking area.
It is nice when travelers give hikers a lift in this park where affordable hiking trail shuttle services just do not exist.
Brrrr, who turned on the freezer?
Clingman's Dome was in the clouds and a cold wind was whipping nearly 40 mph as I climbed the 1/2 mile trail from the parking area to
the AT. Most people weren't even stopping to get out of their cars as they circled thru the parking area and headed
back down the 7 mile road to Newfound Gap which was still in the clear. I think the temperature must have been about
45 F with a wind chill of around 35 F. I was grateful for my warm gloves and head wrap as I trekked along the AT toward Goshen Prong trailhead some 2.3 miles away.
Big birds and wind-blown hikers
Enroute to Clingman's Dome I'd spotted a wild turkey and just before the Sugarlands
visitor center I saw rather bold coyote just standing beside the road watching the cars go by. From there to Clingman's
Dome the only "critters" I saw were rams, impallas, mustangs, thunderbirds and possibly a jaguar. Next, about 1/4 mile down the AT, a ruffed grouse trotted down the trail in front of me and, perhaps because
of the windy weather, elected to just stand on the side of the trail as I passed beside it less than 5 feet away. My
camera had already been stowed in my waterproof pack so I didn't get a photo of the mountain chicken. (A bit later on this hike I would see a giant raven soar overhead and also a beautiful pileated woodpecker.) The wind had picked-up in intensity and was now shrieking thru the trees. I was by now eyeing the worsening weather
and swaying trees suspiciously, wondering if maybe I'd better go back to the parking lot to hitch a ride back to my car.
About this time I met my first hikers of the day: A father and his 13 year old son from Oak Ridge who'd spent the evening
in the Double Spring Gap shelter. They'd been on the trail since Sunday. I figured if they could make it from
the shelter that I could tough it out another hour or so to the Goshen Prong trailhead where I was hoping I'd find better
weather conditions. Before reaching the trailhead I met several more backpackers--all part of the same group from Oak
Ridge, TN. They remarked how nasty the weather had been for most of their five day outing. Now until you've actually
hiked this section of trail with a backpack, you've no appreciation of how wickedly difficult it is to hike between
Double Spring Gap and Clingman's Dome--especially when it is wet. Fortunately for me, I was going in the downhill
direction and had only a daypack. I kept my mouth shut about what was to come for those hikers and just told them
"you're almost there."
Goshen Prong by gush
Goshen is supposed to mean fertile valley, or some such nonesense. I've no idea where
they came up with that name for the little gushing stream that has its origins near the AT and rushes down the steep slopes
to join the Little River--a stream that ends up as the water supply for the thirsty cities of Alcoa and Maryville. I
doubt many of the people using that water have a clue as to its true origins. I think about things like that as
I carefully make my way down the mountain with the increasing roar of the stream gradually replacing the shriek of the wind.
I've descended below the clouds and am treated to sunshine on the surrounding lower mountain peaks and valleys. I'm instantly glad of my decision less than an hour ago to not turn back. Although the trail is steep, it is
easy enough to walk--even with most of its surface hidden by wet leaves. About 90 minutes or so of walking
down the trail I pass a small cave and then soon cross my first major feeder stream. Rounding a sharp bend, the steep, narrow trail transitions
to a wide, gradually sloping trail along an old railroad bed. It is easy walking from here onward.
Fish Camp Prong
Goshen Prong feeds into Fish Camp Prong at what has become a traditional place for me to enjoy
lunch when hiking this trail. Fish Camp was said to have been the site of one of the larger lumber camps established
during the logging of this area around the year 1915. There is a trail sign here where an unmaintained side trail leads into the bramble toward what was once the Lower Buckeye Gap backcountry campsite.
That site, one mile from the present trail, has been closed for many years now and the old trail is overgrown.
Backcountry site #23, named Camp Rock, is just a hundred yards or so beyond the trail sign. It is a lovely
campsite and I'd recommend it as a destination for anyone looking for a relatively easy walk from Elkmont to a place where
they can enjoy some solitude and the lovely cascades and numerous small waterfalls found along Fish Camp Prong. I enjoy these views for the next 3.3 miles as I trek alongside Fish Camp Prong toward
the Little River trail. Just before Goshen Prong trail ends, I cross the "Goshen Gate Bridge" which is just a fancy footbridge that spans the Little River. It was near here that a local woman met her death as a result of a bear attack in the spring of 2000. Today
I've seen no bears here. There are very few oak or hickory trees along the Goshen Prong trail (mostly spruce, birch,
beech and yellow poplar) and so there isn't much food for bears this late in the year.
Back to civilization
I hike the next 3.7 miles along Little River trail--a very popular trail for weekend visitors.
The trail has lots to offer and the farther uphill you travel the more wild the trail becomes. Most people turn around
at Cucumber Gap trail junction. I enjoy the hike back to my car and walk the last couple of miles while chatting with
another amatuer photographer. Even with such pretty weather in the middle of "leaf peeper" season there are only a few
hikers on the trail. I've yet to understand why people flock to the trails in parks out west yet stay in their cars
for trails here in the east. Does anyone know the answer to this puzzling question?
Hike In, Recharge
You might be surprised to read that my hike today was shorter than the 14 miler it would
have been if I'd done the hike as an out and back to campsite #23 from Elkmont. I hiked only 13.2 miles. If you
can arrange a two car shuttle then take advantage of all the different views you'll enjoy by hiking the same route I did today.
Alternately, if you are into backpacking, hike into campsite #23 from Elkmont and enjoy a few days of solitude. It'll
recharge your life.
Click here to see my photo gallery for this hike (opens in a new window.
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