This week (May 29, 2007) I returned to that area and hiked generally the same route in the opposite direction.  Everything was green and it hasn't rained much here in two months.  Isn't contrast lovely?

 

You may have heard of the Road to Nowhere.  That is the name locals have dubbed the 6 mile section of Lakeview Drive that was originally supposed to be a 32 mile road following the southern border of the Smokies from Bryson City, NC to Fontana, NC.  The government stopped building the road in 1969 after completing only 6 miles of the nearly 32 miles that were planned.  The road ends near trailheads for Lakeshore Trail and Noland Creek Trail.  This journal will describe my 18 mile loop hike that starts and ends on these two trails with a few more very interesting routes in between.

 

My October 2006 hike was highlighted by several kinds of very orange fungi and lovely fall foliage.  It rained on me for the first half and much of the 2nd half of the hike--in other words it rained for most of the hike.  Water, water, everywhere.  But I had fun and took pictures.

 

In late May 2007 I hiked about the same route except I did it in the opposite direction (clockwise this time). I parked the car at the Noland Creek parking area and walked the rest of the way up to the tunnel where I joined Lakeshore trail.  Imagine walking thru an abandoned 2,000' long tunnel with no lights.  Mainly it is very dark with only light at either end.  You wouldn't think someone would ride their horse thru such a place, eh?  Wrong.  I stepped in the middle of a big pile of proof that horses walk thru this tunnel.  The only good thing is "I never saw it coming."

 

Beyond the tunnel, the Mountain Laurel were putting on a bloomfest.  Not much else was in bloom this time of year but the laurel were gorgeous.  Don't miss the photos.

 

I cut 0.6 of a mile off of this second hike by opting to walk White Oak Branch trail.  Unfortunately, it is a hilly sucker and there wasn't much to see except some serious wild hog mud wallows (wild hogs are common in this area--see my Whooo-oooo Pig! trail story).

 

Forney Creek trail was my next companion but only for about 1.5 miles.  The creek was the most beautiful part of this trail.  I love to watch Forney Creek.

 

Springhouse Branch trail ties into Forney Creek at backcountry campsite #71.  This was also the HQ of a company of 1930's era CCC workers who probably built most of the trails in this area as well as a fire lookout tower atop High Rocks.  Evidence of their old buildings are still to be found in this area.  See the photos.  Springhouse Branch trail climbs over Forney Ridge to the Noland Creek valley.  It is a 7 mile long trail that is much like what I envision a Smokies hiking trail to be (as compared to some other trails like Lower Hazel Creek and Lower Noland Creek which are more like roads than trails).  Several small springs and seeps bisect the trail and the footing can be tricky.  It would be better if horses stayed off of them but still, this trail maintains its "wild" character more than perhaps any other trail in the park where horses and hikers share the trail.  Just before I enjoyed my lunch atop Forney Ridge at the intersection of Forney Ridge trail I was treated to a live nature show by the Ruffed Grouse.

 

Ruffed Grouse are native to these mountains and encounters at higher elevations (above 4,000') are common.  This time of year they have small chicks and I had the good luck to come across two different sets of Ruffed Grouse families while walking along Springhouse Branch trail.  Each time the male flew away while the female put on a convincing "wounded bird" show complete with dragging wing and wailing cry.  While this was going on the chicks were escaping.  On my last encounter, one chick was tardy and as I approached its location it chirped loudly and proceeded to high-tail it out of there.  Meanwhile, the mother grouse heard the squeal of the lost little one and came charging toward me clucking & hissing with all feathers turned outward to make her look about twice her actual size.  As soon as junior was safely away, the mother grouse also flew away.  After several minutes the parents return and "call" their babies who  rejoin the parents.   Neat stuff.  Observation note:  So-called experts state that the males have nothing to do with raising chicks but in my experience with Ruffed Grouse the males are almost always present when I've encountered the "family" of female and chicks.  Perhaps the males were just hanging around hoping to "get lucky" with mama but it does make me wonder about their family role.

 

Zipping down the Noland Creek side of Springhouse Branch trail I was reminded that it is much steeper and wetter than the Forney Creek side.  Clockwise is the easier routing for this trail (sometimes I get lucky).  I soon arrive at yet another horse camp (backcountry campsite #64) but today there is no one here but me.  Like #71, the amenities at #64 suggest this place was designed more like a roadside park than a backcountry campground.  Porta-potties, picnic tables, benches, etc.  Those horse riders really know how to live.  I just wish they'd do all of their living somewhere else--especially when astride those 1500 lb. trail wreckers.

 

Noland Creek trail from this point to Lakeview Drive is really a road. It does pass thru some very historic areas and old artifacts are just about everywhere you look (chimneys, foundations, old orchard trees, walls, etc.).  There are side-trails that lead to cemeteries and old building ruins.  You can look down on large flat areas that border beautiful Noland Creek and easily imagine the extensive development that existed here at the start of the 1900's before this area was acquired for the park. 

 

These days all you are likely to see here are a few unlucky fishermen (Noland Creek isn't known for good fishing) and the occassional hiker or horse rider.

 

I turned on the speed for this last 4.2 miles of my hike and soon reached my car and its treasured ice-packed cooler of cold beverages and fruit.  Those were much appreciated during the 88 mile, 2 hour 15 minute drive back home along the crooked roads I use to access this area (included among those crooked roads is the 11 mile, 318 curves, stretch of US 129 known as "The Dragon").

 

Click here to see my photo gallery.  I've posted and mixed together photos from both the October 2006 and May 2007 hikes.