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Cataloochee Divide (Smokies)
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Entrance to Cataloochee at Cove Creek Gap
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Typical Trail View on Cataloochee Divide
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Old CCC-era Split Rail Fence
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Cataloochee Divide Trail. Click to view photos...

Cataloochee Divide trail follows the ridgeline of the mountains separating Big Cataloochee valley in the Smokies from the resort town of Maggie Valley, NC.  It is a lovely trail to hike and, with its elevation range of 4,000 - 5,100 feet, this trail offers a welcome respite from the high heat and humidity of our summer season.  Hikers will find good displays of wildflowers and a 1930's era split rail fence, constructed by the C.C.C., that runs the entire length of the trail! 
 
Gadalutsi is the Cherokee term that came to be known as Cataloochee.  Variously this area was called Cataluche, Cattalooch, Cataloocha, Cattyloochy and Catalooch.  The term gadalutsi is loosely translated as "waves of mountains" or "standing in ranks" which may be descriptive of the trees seen standing in a row along the narrow ridge crests of the area.
 
Look carefully and you may spot a panther...this is one of the areas where panthers have been sighted over the past 20 years.  Officially, panther--also known as mountain lion, painter and cougar--haven't been recorded in this part of the U.S. for a few decades.  Don't tell that to the ones who've seen and heard them.   Elk now roam this area too although you are more likely to see them in the meadows of Big Cataloochee valley a few miles away.  The elk were reintroduced to the park in 2002.  The melodic call of the Veery is often heard along this route and don't be surprised if a Ruffed Grouse flies away as you approach.  Early evening you are likely to find wild turkeys roosting in the trees along this ridgeline trail.  We've also seen coyote trotting down the trail in front of us.
 
These days the area outside the park seems to be more and more developed.  On our last hike here we noted there is a new residential development called "The Divide"  and even a couple of homes atop the ridge near the trail.  There has long been a commercial resort/retreat named The Swag which is located between Purchase Knob and the end of Cataloochee Divide trail at Hemphill Bald.  Fortunately this resort is ethos-minded in their management and their owners even appear to assist with maintenance of the trail and surrounding features.
 
You can make a one-day loop hike out of this 6.4 mile trail only if you have arranged a ride back to your car at the other end.  Logical exit routes include McKee Branch and Hemphill Bald trails.  Of course you could stay at The Swag and get them to shuttle you to the trailhead at Cove Creek Gap and then hike back to the resort (about a 6 mile hike).  I imagine that in exchange for their $500 - $750/night room rates that one should be able to expect a little something extra....!  On our last hike we just backtracked to our car at Cove Creek Gap.  Previously I hiked down to Big Cataloochee valley and hitched the 7 miles back to my car--but that isn't always a guaranteed option in this part of the world where tourists seem not-so-likely to offer hikers a ride.
 
One of our favorite hiking routes has long been Hemphill Bald trail from Heintooga Ridge road at Polls Gap to its namesake bald.  With a two car shuttle you could easily include both Cataloochee Divide and Hemphill Bald trails in your plans for a single day hike.
 
Getting There....I'd visit this area more often if it wasn't so far from my Maryville, TN home.  There is no place in the Smokies that takes me longer to reach by car than Cataloochee.  About 2-1/2 hours for the 110 mile trip is typically the fastest one-way trip time.  Don't expect the road signs to be any assistance in finding this place.  Generally there aren't any well-placed road signs directing travelers to Cataloochee valley.  Unless you want to travel 16 miles on NC Hwy 284, a very narrow and crooked gravel road between Big Creek and Cataloochee valley, then there is only one recommended route into Cataloochee by car:  Cove Creek road.  Take I-40 to exit #20 at NC Hwy 276 (in North Carolina).  About 150 yards beyond the interstate exit you'll see Cove Creek road.  Follow Cove Creek road for the 3 or 4 miles it takes to reach Cove Creek Gap and the entrance to the national park.  Note that the last portion of this route will be a twisting gravel road.  To get into the Cataloochee valley just continue down the hill where, after another 1.9 miles, the road will again becomes pavement.  Stay on the paved road (no turns!) another 3 miles to reach the valley.  The road continues 2 miles more to a dead-end (the last mile is again a gravel road).  This last two mile stretch of road runs thru the area where you can often see elk grazing in the meadows.  I believe the beauty of this place rivals Cades Cove and you'll rarely find crowds of people except on weekends when they come here in the evenings to see the elk.
 
Enjoy the photos.  We've also included some shots of the elk seen in the Big Cataloochee valley.  Most hiking guides offer a detailed description of the routes in this area along with a few tidbits of history about how it got its name.  Don't forget that my journals are not intended to be a substitute for a good hiking guide. There are so many excellent trails and old structures to be seen in this area but you'll need to make a little effort to see them as some are well off the beaten path.  Read about one such area--Little Cataloochee trail--in my hiking journal archives.  Next time you want an enjoyable weekend and someone says "Cades Cove,"  choose Cataloochee instead.  You'll be glad you did.   Posted 5/25/07.

Sunset over Balsam Mountain
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Goodbye from Cataloochee

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