Life After 50--One Man's Perspective
Blockaders' Glory - Hiking Sugarland Mtn Trail Into Kephart's "Sinful Tennessee"
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Join us as eight people hike 12.4 miles into Horace Kephart's "Sinful Tennessee" via the Sugarland Mountain Trail in the Smokies.  The elevation drops from 5,900' at Clingman's Dome Road to only 2,300' at Fighting Creek Gap (opposite the Laurel Falls trailhead).  Hike date was August 3, 2002.
"This was the beginning of the Sugarlands, a country of ill fame, hidden deep in remote gorges.."
 
Two hiking clubs are popular in our area:  Smoky Mountain Hiking Club and Foothills Striders.  A newsletter from the Foothills Striders alerted me to a planned hike August 3rd along the full length of the Sugarland Mountain Trail; early on Friday evening I decided to join them on this hike the next Saturday morning.  I'd long considered hiking the full length of this trail and would have already done it except for the problem of having the start & finish points some 26 miles apart (by car).  I don't know exactly what I was thinking would be made any easier by joining up with the Foothills Striders on this hike because it turned out I still had to do a whole lot of driving in order to stage & recover shuttle vehicles for this hike.  Nonetheless, the weather was nice, the company was new and I started this day's adventure with eager anticipation.  

We Join Foothills Striders for a Hike
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Eight people made up our hiking group this day and our start point was near the top of Clingman's Dome at an elevation of 5,900'.  We walked along the Appalachian Trail (AT) for about 0.3 of a mile before arriving at the start of Sugarland Mountain Trail.  A short detour was made to inspect the Mount Collins Shelter where we spoke with two hikers who said bears had growled most of the night, keeping them nervously awake.  At least they were protected inside the caged confines of the old-style AT shelter.  My first seasonal sighting of Pink Turtlehead flowers was along this trail and we also spied lots of Tall Bellflower and several clumps of Southern Harebell--both having delicate tiny blue blossoms. 

Tall Bellflower
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Soon we passed the junction of an old un-maintained trail segment--a manway--leading 1/2 mile & 500' downslope to Chimneytops.  Commonly known as "The Chimneys" it is a popular hiking destination for which most people use a worn & rocky approach trail that starts on Newfound Gap Road some 2,000' lower than our position on Sugarlands Mtn Trail.  Views of Chimneytops formations, complete with swarms of hikers, could be seen thru gaps in the foliage along our route.  There were, however, no other hikers seen along our 12.4 mile trail during this day's adventure.  Often our trail followed the knife-edge spine of the mountain ridge where alternately on the left or right the slope was nearly vertical.  Additional notable sightings along this trail included Cauliflower mushrooms, Old-Man-of-the-Woods mushrooms, Stalked Puffball-in-Aspic mushrooms, Yellow-fringed Orchids and several house-sized rocks with large patches of lime-green lichen.   

Blazed Arrows Point to the Manway
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CCC Cut Pathways thru the Boulders
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Many of these huge house-sized rocks had paths cut thru them for the trail, apparently part of the work done by the 25 members of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) when they constructed this trail during the summer of 1934. 
 
In his book Our Southern Highlanders, author Horace Kephart (1862-1931) recounts a journey as a member of a posse organized by a bail bondsman who were trying to capture two moonshiners who'd jumped their $500 bail:  
       "Ahead of us was the descent into Tennessee.  The road had abruptly ended.  Beyond was a steep and rocky trail going down, down along a brawling torrent into the gloom of narrow gulfs that were choked with laurel and spruce and balsam.
      "This was the beginning of the Sugarlands, a country of ill fame, hidden deep in remote gorges, difficult of access, tenanted by a sparse population who preferred to be a a law unto themselves.  For many a year it had been known on our side of the mountains as Blockaders' Glory, which is the same as saying Moonshiners' Paradise, and we all believed it to be fitly named. 
      "Thus doth sinless North Carolina look down upon sinful Tennessee......
      ....."We slipped and slid.  The toes of our street shoes punished us.  Rocks of all sizes everywhere.  Any boulder less in size than a house we called a "pebble."
      ....."through a gap opening southeastward we got our first long-range view of a bit of the country through which we had descended.  More than three thousand feet above us rose those two sheer pinnacles of rock that they call the Chimneys.  They protrude like tusks from the top of a ridge so narrow that a man can sit down astraddle it and toss a pebble a thousand feet down through the air.  Yet such is the nature of rock and climate in this region that a cliff, wherever it is not quite vertical, will hold moisture and vegetation.  So the Chimneys are not bare, but clothed with little tough shrubs and bracken, or with balsam and spruce and rhododendron where the slopes will permit their roots to grapple."

This downhill hiking is HARD
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Click image to view hike photos...

...two hikers who'd ridden with us were talking about going to church the next Sunday morning...
 
Our hiking companions were of the variety I'd call "destination oriented gazelles."  That is to say, they walked fast and didn't linger to experience their surroundings.  A few of them were wearing tennis shoes (vs. hiking boots) and about 2/3 into the hike I noticed that the group as a whole was now walking more slowly, taking frequent rest stops and generally exhibiting all the signs of weekend athletes on the "sore side" of their day's adventure.  It was also about this time that I realized my oversight with regard to positioning of the essential summertime post-hike recovery kit:  I'd left the cooler of cold beer in a vehicle at the "wrong" end of the hiking trail.  Nonetheless, about an hour after finishing the hike I returned to the end point with our vehicle, cold beer still intact since I was under a time limit to get back to give others a ride and do not drink beer while driving.  Two hikers who'd ridden with me were talking about going to church the next Sunday morning so I figured I'd be the only one sipping an alcoholic beverage.  Of course out of courtesy I offered my companions a cold beer.  Yep, you guessed it:  Sinners all.   One beer each.  They must have been Irish Catholics.

Note: There are two sets of photos in the Sugarland Mtn Trail gallery--the ones from this hike (August) and ones from a spring day hike (May).  Click here to start at the first photo in the May hike.


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