Sweat, Grass, Bunions & Icewater--Smokies Hike

The hot and humid summer hiking season is approaching even as many of us are wishing spring had lasted just another month. No worries mates, I've got the hike for all of you: Start at Newfound Gap on the AT. Hike east to Sweat Heifer and then downhill to Kephart hiking shelter. From there, go back uphill to the AT via Grassy Branch and Dry Sluice Gap trails. Return westward (south?) along the AT where you'll pass Charlie's Bunion and Icewater Springs on your way to the Newfound Gap parking area. This 13.6 mile loop will route you thru some of the most beautiful and historic regions of the Smokies.

Many of my readers will be surprised to read that I've hiked a trail that was new to me in the Smokies. Sure, I've hiked all of the trails--most of them two or three times, however, the little secret about Smokies trails is that most of them have at least two or three completely different personalities. Personalities? Have I gone bonkers? Maybe, but think for a moment just what you'd call the trait which makes a hiking trail so different in May vs. October that you'd not even recall having hiked it before? Such would be the case with trails like Sweat Heifer and Grassy Branch trails which I just hiked for the first time during the mid-May season, 5/13/2009.

Some of you are going to read this hike journal and take a hike on these same trails in June or July. You'll probably not recognize the trails from my photos taken in mid-May. Trails in the Smokies which have significant elevation changes often offer completely different seasonal experiences for hikers. Janice & I have been exploiting this fact all during this 2009 spring wildflower season.

This hike goes thru so many eco zones that you'll be amazed at its diversity. In fact, you can expect to see a three or four week range in the wildflowers that will be on display. For example, in mid-May on these trails, we saw spring beauties, trout lily and phacelia--all are wildflowers that generally quit blooming along lower elevation trails back around the end of April. You'll also be treated to flowers at the 5,000'+ elevation range which you'll not find in the valley areas (Turk's Cap Lily, Witch Hobble, Mountain Ash, Rugel's Indian Plantain & Sand Myrtle). Many showy, and even some rare species of flowers can be found on this route.

There are lots of creeks along Sweat Heifer and Grassy Branch trails. Both trails alternately cross and parallel creeks and small feeder streams along much of their lengths. Icewater Spring along the AT is another good place for a cold drink. These numerous waterholes make for easy access to water (purify before you drink) and often nice views of noisy cascades. Warm season hikers can look forward to seeing water-loving vegetation like umbrella leaf, brook lettuce, touch-me-nots, bee-balm, monkshood and purple-fringed orchids.

Not much interest for wildflowers, you say? How about the history of this trail which is on display in the form of old narrow gauge railroad beds, logging artifacts and early conservation efforts such as the Norway spruce trees which you'll find nowhere else in the Smokies? You can wonder all about the Champion Fibre Co. which is responsible for these remnants and was the largest single land owner when it was decided to make this area a national park. More than 3 miles of these trails actually follow the old railroad beds. Watch carefully for the artifacts as you walk these trails. Who knows what you'll discover!

Many people have at least heard about the fabulous views from Charlie's Bunion but did you know the sheer stone cliffs of Charlie's Bunion were formed as the result erosion due to heavy rains in 1927 following a huge 1925 wildfire which burned-away all of the vegetation in that area? You'll enjoy many other spots along this trail loop which will offer unique landscape views.

Looking for some exercise? This trail loop is 13.6 miles long and has a range of elevations from the low point of 3,540' at Kephart hiking shelter to a high point of 6,113' along the AT as you cross Mt. Ambler. Owing to its up & down character, you'll climb and descend more than 4,500' from start to finish. Yeah, you'll get your exercise so take plenty of water--especially during summer months. Don't forget to eat those Wheaties before you start.

You'll pass two hiking shelters on this loop hike: Kephart and Icewater Springs shelters. Kephart makes for a good spot to enjoy your lunch while Icewater Springs is a good place to chat with hikers who just might be AT Thru-hikers. Either place would make a good mid-point overnight destination for hikers looking to walk this loop in a more leisurely fashion. Just remember, you'll need to call the Smokies back-country planning office for a reservation if you plan to overnight at any Smokies hiking shelter.

Not ready for 13.6 miles? Pair-up with a hiking buddy and leave a car a the lower end of Kephart Prong trail. Start your hike at Newfound Gap (5,040') and hike 7.4 miles "downhill" to the end of Kephart Prong trail. Don't blame me if during this hike you discover that there is no such thing in the Smokies as a hiking trail that is all downhill! Yep, you'll have almost 1,000' of climbing along the AT out of Newfound Gap to get to the upper Sweat Heifer trailhead (5,834'). From there, however, it is all downhill to the lower Kephart Prong trailhead where the elevation is only about 2,740'. Kephart Prong trail is one of my all-time favorites because of all of the historic footbridges.