Why buy a smaller, used bike first and then work your way up to the larger and/or more powerful bike?

This question seems to get debated ad-nauseum on internet discussion sites so I thought I'd put together my thoughts about it... take it or leave it, this advice is genuinely offered if you are in the position of starting motorcycling.

Many people view Harleys and other cruisers as proper bikes. Big 1000cc 1200cc bikes - "men's bikes"!! Or maybe the fastest bike ever, a Hayabusa 1300cc rocketship - woah, now that's a "real bike". So, a 600cc "crotch rocket" would be half the size and therefore a kid's bike - ideal for a learner obviously... Wrong - don't even go there. The big four manufacturers fight over that lucrative market like hungry hyenas, making beautiful shiny (virtually) race ready sportbikes that few new riders can resist.

So they innocently ask "which is the best 600cc bike to learn on?".

Comparing 600cc sportbikes as starter bikes is daft. They all have twice the power and a much much higher top speed than a cruiser. Some may be tamer than others but the basic premise of a middleweight sportbike is all wrong for learning motorcycle skills. The ergonomics are out and out dangerous for a newbie on the street ( reaching for clip ons, rear-set pegs, craning neck up in traffic, restricted turning circle etc etc..) and the power's too much. It's better to focus on a smaller displacement 'standard' bike. They are set up for more compliant handling and ride and they are more comfortable, an important point while you're learning.

Take the pressure off - get a starter bike to start on.

  • Accidents happen mostly between 6th month and 3rd year of riding so learn on something you won't be so upset about when you drop it.

  • A less powerful bike will not punish you so badly for jerking the throttle like a newbie.

  • Smaller and lighter bikes are easier to handle. There's a lot to think about until you're comfortable about turning, stopping, gearchanging acceleration.

  • The value of a smaller bike, eg a 250, is learning to get the performance out of them - it really teaches you to ride to the bike's and your own potential. A 250, 350, 400 might seem small to you at first, but think of it as a step in the journey, learn to wring it's neck and be a better rider in the long run.

  • Regardless of power and speed, it's a good idea for new riders to geta bike that allows both feet to be placed flat on the ground. This tends to inspire confidence and will eliminate a lot of concern about dropping the bike. Undeniably, the slow parking lot type manoevers are the trickiest for a new rider, and being able to put your feet down really helps.

  • Smaller bikes are also usually lighter - weight can be a big deal in gaining confidence on the first bike.

  • Starting on a faster bike makes learning proper brake technique harder. Most new riders cannot judge how to use brakes effectively, intuition tells us that using the front brake will "flip" the bike or make the tire slide out. It's common for new riders to thus make the mistake of depending on the rear brake and the faster you are going the deadlier it can be.

  • Insurance rates are much higher for the larger more powerful bikes.

  • What if you don't like riding? Used bikes don't depreciate as quickly as new bikes so you'll lose out less when you sell it.

  • If you buy a cheaper bike, you'll be able to afford better quality protective gear: Minumum should be full face helmet, Leather jacket, gloves, boots and leather pants (yes - leather pants: studies show the majority of injuries to bikers are lower body injuries). Also, wear all your gear every time you ride, even if it's just a mile or two down to the shops.

  • Here's a selfish reason: I've been riding for many years and I don't want newbies who are out of their depth tarnishing the image of sportbike riders - yes other more experienced and immature riders do plenty of that too but law enforcement can spot a newbie on a sportbike just as easily as you or I can.

  • The desire for a larger bike is sometimes (often) a result of peer pressure. How you deal with what others think of you is your problem but if you decide on the sportbike because you want to fit in or because your buddies said so, then you need to think really seriously about that.

  • Most expert riders recommend learning on a smaller bike as the safer route.

  • If you ask an experienced rider's opinion, find out from them: how experienced they are, exactly what they started on and what kind of riding they do. Me, I've ridden streetbikes for 28 years and half that time on sportbikes. I started on a Yamaha RD250 two-stroke.

  • The salesman at the bike showroom should NEVER be considered an experienced or expert rider in this matter. Whatever he says, take it with a pinch of salt, especially if it would seem to be helping him with a sale.

  • Newbies on powerful sportbikes look a LOT funnier wobbling round turns than newbies on smaller bikes.

  • Some people claim proudly ...I survived as a litre bike newbie... having got a big bad sportbike as their first bike and six months later, they're still around to talk about it. That's great but they were/are beating the odds and playing a high stakes game - the stake they are risking is their health or even their life. It's not really that wonderful. The other thing is, it's usually quite easy to spot the ones who started on bigger bikes - uncomfortable looking on the bike, less fluid on twisty roads, more focused on straightline speed than form, and quite embarrassing to watch at less than 5mph speeds.

  • This is not from my own experience, but many riders have said that motorcyclists who learn first on dirtbikes end up as better riders when they transition to streetbikes. This I think is a lot to do with throttle control, balance and learning far more about the limits of tire traction. So consider going that route first. MSF now runs Dirt Bike Schools for beginners.

  • A used bike will teach you about motorcycle maintainance, something every rider should at least know the basics of. It's less likely you'll want to get your hands dirty on a newer or more high-tech model.

  • Whichever bike you have decided on, try doing the basic Motorcycle Safety Foundation training course course BEFORE you commit to a bike. The MSF lend you a small displacement bike to start on and the time you spend riding that may help you with your decision. If you're outside the USA, take a look at these training links and see if you can find a local class.
Please also refer to the following websites for more information on which bikes to consider:-
Here are a few specific models that would make decent starter bikes, some still available new, others only in the used market. Buying used for your first bike is recommended, sniff around for a bargain and you be surprised how well off you'll be when the time comes to sell it on......

Buell P3 Blast
492cc air cooled single, belt drive.
Lightweight, low seat, low maintenance.

Suzuki GS500
487cc air cooled inline twin.
Low seat, cheap and easy to maintain.

Honda Nighthawk 250
234cc air cooled inline twin.

Kawasaki W650
676cc air cooled inline twin. Retro style.

Honda CB400T Hawk
1978-81 395cc air cooled inline twin, 390lbs.
Not to be confused with the later Hawk GT 650 twin (thanks James).

Kawasaki ZX400/ZX-4
398cc liquid cooled 16v inline-4.
Sportbike, Euro only?

Kawasaki EX500
498cc liquid-cooled inline twin, 8 valves,
chain drive. a.k.a. GPz500

Kawasaki EX250
248cc liquid cooled 8-valve inline twin.
Very light, low cost & low seat for a sportbike.

Honda CX500
497cc liquid-cooled V-twin, shaft drive.
a.k.a. Plastic Maggot. A little top heavy.

Yamaha XZ550 Vision
550cc water cooled 4v V-twin, shaft drive.

Honda CB-1 CB400F
400cc Inline 4, aluminium perimeter
frame, very sporty - available in U.S. '89-'91..
Note that many of these smaller displacement bikes may not be available in your country... the major manufactureres are very market-savvy in this respect. Also, some of the bikes here are only available 'used'....

Honda VT 250
249cc liquid cooled 8v V-Twin

Suzuki GSF 400 Bandit
398cc liquid cooled 16v inline-4.

Kawasaki ER 250
1983-90 248cc air cooled inline twin.
Belt drive. a.k.a. Skorpion

Suzuki GN250
1982-1991 249cc air cooled single. 'Custom' style.

Yamaha FZX250
249cc liquid cooled inline-4
a.k.a. Zeal

Yamaha SR250
1980-93 249cc air cooled single. 'Custom' style.

Yamaha SRV250
248cc air cooled V twin.

Yamaha SRX250
1988-94 249cc air cooled single.

Kawasaki 350 S2
1971-73 346cc air cooled two-stroke triple

Suzuki GS450
1981-85 448cc air cooled inline twin.

A few suggestions for those who may be able to handle something a bit beefier (eg, if you have dirtbike or some previous streetbike experience). These bikes are still reasonably manageable for inexperienced riders but are a little heavier or more powerful....


Suzuki GSF600 Bandit
1995-present 599cc air/oil cooled inline 4.
Same engine and some parts from the Katana series.

Yamaha XJ650 Seca
1980-82 Air cooled inline 4.

Kawasaki KZ550
1980-82 Air cooled inline 4, shaft dive.

Yamaha XS650
1975-84 Air cooled, Inline twin.

KTM Duke 620 - Motard
1994-present Liquid cooled single.

Suzuki SV650
1999-present 645cc Liquid cooled V-twin.

BMW 650LS
650cc opposed twin, shaft drive - good price, clean
looks, mild performance.

BMW F650
Introduced 1994 - liquid cooled 652cc single,
Chain drive, lightweight chassis, great ergos.

Here are a few more models, available currently or in recent years. Larger riders may consider looking at dirt or dual purpose styles, along with the increasingly popular motard or supermotos. The DPs are often on the heavy side, while the motards have high seats which a shorter rider may have difficulty with as a beginner..
If you live in town or have a short commute, try one of the 125cc bikes shown here - many 125s are excellent starter bikes as long as you don't need to use major highways or motorways.


Aprilia Pegaso 650 IE ( dual purpose )
49bhp 652cc liquid-cooled single
354.2 lbs, seat height: 32.955 inches

Cagiva Planet 125 ( standard )
18bhp 125cc liquid-cooled single
275 lbs, seat height: 30.225 inches

BMW F650GS ( dual purpose )
50bhp 652cc liquid-cooled single
424.6 lbs, seat height: 30.42 inches
also see the Dakar model - same specs..

BMW F650CS ( standard )
50bhp 652cc liquid-cooled single
415.8 lbs, seat height: 30.42 inches

Cagiva Raptor 650 ( standard )
72bhp 645cc liquid-cooled V-twin (Suzuki SV engine)
396 lbs, seat height: 30.225 inches

Cagiva V-Raptor 650 ( standard )
72bhp 645cc liquid-cooled V-twin
396 lbs, seat height: 30.225 inches
same as the Raptor but with mini fairing and lower bars

CCM 604 RS ( standard/super-motard )
53bhp 598cc air-cooled single
303.6 lbs, seat height: 32.76 inches

CCM 644 Supermoto ( super-motard )
53bhp 644cc air-cooled single
301.4 lbs, seat height: 33.735 inches

Ducati M600 Monster ( standard )
51bhp 583cc air-cooled V-twin
382.8 lbs, seat height: 30.03 inches

Ducati M620ie Monster ( standard )
60bhp 618cc air-cooled V-twin
389.4 lbs, seat height: 30.03 inches

Honda CB250 ( standard )
20bhp 234cc air-cooled twin
290.4 lbs, seat height: 29.055 inches
a.k.a. Nighthawk

Honda CB500 ( standard )
58bhp 499cc liquid-cooled twin
380.6 lbs, seat height: 30.225 inches

Honda CB500S ( standard )
58bhp 499cc liquid-cooled twin
389.4 lbs, seat height: 30.225 inches
same as CB500 with fairing

Honda CG125 ( standard )
11bhp 124cc air-cooled single
242 lbs, seat height: 30.069 inches

Honda XL650V Transalp ( dual purpose )
58bhp 647cc liquid-cooled V-twin
420.2 lbs, seat height: 32.877 inches

Kawasaki ER-5 ( standard )
49bhp 498cc liquid-cooled twin
393.8 lbs, seat height: 31.2 inches

KTM 640 Duke ( super-motard )
52bhp 625cc liquid-cooled single
327.8 lbs, seat height: 35.1 inches

KTM 660 SMC ( super-motard )
54bhp 654cc liquid-cooled single
288.2 lbs, seat height: 35.49 inches

KTM LC4 640 Supermoto ( super-motard )
52bhp 625cc liquid-cooled single
327.8 lbs, seat height: 35.1 inches

Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic ( standard )
22bhp 499cc air-cooled single
369.6 lbs, seat height: 29.64 inches
also the Clubman - 500S sportier caferacer style

Suzuki DRZ-400S ( dual purpose )
39bhp 398cc liquid-cooled single
290.4 lbs, seat height: 36.465 inches

Yamaha XT660 ( super-motard )
48bhp 660 cc liquid-cooled single
380.6 lbs, seat height: 34.125 inches
Why not take a look at the Hurt Report for some interesting (if a little outdated) observations based on a statistical study of Motorcycle accidents.

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Credits: Thanks to all the SBN, SBW, SBws and CF contributors I've pinched ideas from.
Particularly to: Jim Wenzel, James Reynolds and Taziscool(at SBN) for valued input.
And to: Mike Le Pard at TotalMotorcycle.com and countless unknown contributors for
the use of their images and ideas.