Chewing:
All puppies chew to some extent for the first year of life. This is due to teething, boredom, energy or just plain curiosity. Puppies learn with their mouths. Puppies grow their milk teeth ("baby" teeth) by about 4-8 weeks of age. These baby teeth fall out and are replaced by permanent teeth by around 10 months. Obviously, they will need something to chew on! Better to start them off right than have to rescue your shoes, grandmother's antique table, TV remote, kid's toys, etc. In our experience, the best chew toys are hard rubber toys like the Kong® toys, Nylabone® or Gumabone® chew toys, cotton or nylon rope toys (I like the ones with a bright-colored shape threaded on the rope for varied texture).
Couple of cautions:

• Cow hooves are very hard and can cause tooth breakage in very aggressive chewers
• Too much rawhide can cause upset stomachs
• Milk-based products can cause upset stomachs
• Well-chewed toys which have become small (chipped off pieces, etc.) can cause choking
• Toys can become brittle or begin to disintegrate with age - replace them if this happens

For young puppies (or just something quick and cheap) take a thick cotton athletic sock, tie a knot in the middle and there you are! For variety or an older puppy, put a tennis ball in the toe before you tie the knot - this one bounces and offers a bit more entertainment. When it gets dirty, throw it in the wash or the trash. Lots of folks advise against using any type of clothing for toys. I figure if the puppy gets hold of a few socks over the years, you really haven't lost a great deal! DO NOT, on the other hand, give your puppy an old shoe of any variety. Remember that even tennis shoes can cost a bundle.

Note: Puppies will get into closets if doors are left open. This also applies to toy boxes, under children's beds, cabinets, any accessible area you would rather they not be in!

To correct improper chewing:
When a puppy begins chewing on something he shouldn't, correct him by firmly (not loudly) saying "No". Remove the object and replace it with an appropriate chew toy. When he begins to play with/chew on the appropriate toy, praise him. Repeat as needed until he learns what is OK.

For some puppies, it will be helpful to use one of the chew prevention products like Bitter Apple. If you have some real treasures, it is probably better to remove them from the puppy's area until he is older.

Since boredom can make chewing much worse, make sure your puppy gets plenty of exercise and attention during these growing stages.

Exercise:
Cockapoos fortunately do not require huge amounts of exercise. That's one of the reasons so many folks in apartments like them! They do enjoy a romp in the yard, park, field with a ball or other throw toy, but a couple of times a week is more than enough. They will be just as happy with a nice walk around the neighborhood (more than 5 minutes!) Cockapoos in the medium to large size ranges (14 or more pounds) will generally have enough leg length to jog with you. Just use common sense and put your puppy in "training" just as you would to work yourself into an exercise program.

When exercising for any length of time, make sure your dog has access to fresh, clean water. There are many neat lightweight bowls that even he could carry with a backpack! Better yet, teach him to drink out of a water bottle!

Generally speaking, if your life-style is more "couch potato" than athlete, your Cockapoo will easily adapt and be content. However, both of you would probably be a bit healthier if you indulged in 2 or 3 long walks each week!

Feeding:
Provide fresh, clean water at all times. Feed a premium puppy food for the first year of life. We have been using and recommending IAMS® Puppy Food for many years. The IAMS company has recently developed a line of IAMS Eukanuba puppy foods for all size ranges (small - large dog). We have been very successful feeding dry food free choice (bowl of dry food available all the time). However, for house training, you may find it easier to manage if the dry food is offered several times a day, prior to taking out for bathroom breaks.

To avoid weight problems, limit high calorie treats and do not feed table food. Above all else, never feed your puppy if/when he begs while you are eating!

If feeding premium food (IAMS, Science Diet, etc.), it is not necessary to supplement your dog's diet with bones, cottage cheese or milk. In fact, milk and milk-based products will often upset a dog's stomach. Your dog (and their coat) will appreciate a hard-boiled egg occasionally (NEVER feed raw eggs - dogs cannot digest raw egg whites). Limit the amount of rawhide you use as chew toys. Many dogs will eat so much rawhide at a time that it upsets their stomach. See the Chewing section for additional suggestions.

Grooming:
Cockapoos do need to be groomed about every 6-10 weeks, depending on how fast their coats grow. It is not necessary to have them professionally groomed since there is no particular style for a Cockapoo clip. However, if you decide to groom at home, you will need some equipment:

• Mild Herbal Shampoo with Moisturizer (Aloe, etc.) or Puppy No Tears Shampoo
• Towels
• Hair Dryer (it works well to dry the puppy in a crate with the hair dryer propped up at the door)
• Slicker Brush
• Greyhound Comb
• Nail Clippers
• Stiptic Powder
• Ear Cleaner
• Curved, Blunt-end Scissors
• Small Hemostats (for pulling ear hair)
• Electric Clippers

Knows you are bringing a puppy
Is very patient
Knows how & is willing to work with puppies

There are some things you can do to prepare your puppy for a trip to the Groomer, Vet, or just to help you when grooming or brushing at home. Play with your puppy's feet, mouth and ears often. Pick up his tail. Stand your puppy up on the kitchen counter or a table of about that height and make him stay there. Get him used to having someone hold him still. Make sure he is used to a crate or in being confined for a while. Have a friend play with puppy's feet, ears, mouth, etc. so he is used to someone besides you doing this.

Housetraining:
Many people feel that they are being "trained" and not their puppy! This isn't too far off. Consistency is the key to successful house training. Puppies should be confined to a safe area until they are "bomb proof". If puppies are allowed free access to the house, it will be very difficult to properly train them. When your puppy is not in his crate, he should be in an area where you can watch him closely. The kitchen is often the room selected because it is easier to clean up accidents and the family spends lots of time there. Look for signs like turning in circles, sniffing, trying to sneak away, pacing as an indicator that he needs to go outside.

Remember, housetraining a puppy is like potty training your children. They have to learn this! Two things have to happen for your puppy to become house trained:

They must understand what is it you want them to do
Their bodies must be mature enough to do it

If you do not catch him in the "act", ignore the puppy and clean up the accident. Use a solution which destroys the odor (this will help prevent his returning to the same spot). DO NOT rub his nose in the mess! If you punish your puppy for accidents, he will only want to make sure you DON'T know when he needs to go. This is the opposite behavior from what you want! Punishing the puppy will only make him hide when he needs to go. Positive reinforcement will win - as long as the puppy understands what you want AND his body is mature enough to do it.

• Confine the puppy in a crate (airline style) or cage when you can't watch him
• Select his "bathroom" spot (natural area - pinestraw works great)
• Use a word like "outside" to signify potty time (same word every time - remember Consistency)
• Always take him to the same spot - remember Consistency
• First person up takes puppy out in the morning - first thing!
• First person home (any time) takes puppy out - immediately! (even if you were gone only 30 minutes)
• Last person to bed takes puppy out at night - last thing!
• Be patient - some dogs take longer or go more than once per trip outside
• Praise him when he does it right
• Potty first, play after (for some puppies you may need to praise, take them back inside, then go back outside play)
• In the early weeks, take the puppy out as often as you can
• Shoot for a regular schedule (dogs like predictability - remember Consistency)
• Schedule might be:
  first thing in the a.m.; noon-afternoon; suppertime; evening; last thing before bed

How Old Is My Dog? How Long Will He Live?
Small breeds tend to live the longest, 14 - 17 years and sometimes even longer. Large breeds, like Great Danes are often "old" at 8 - 10 years of age. Consider this, your "puppy" is a "teenager" at one year of age, with all the growth and personality challenges that your children have at age 15! Regardless of your dog's age, due to better feeding programs & products, better health care, better understanding of growth & maturity patterns, chances are that he or she will live a longer, healthier life now than in years past - just like his human family members.

Another interesting fact is that smaller dogs (Toy breeds, Cocker Spaniels, etc.) mature physically sooner (by about one year of age), than their larger-breed friends (Great Danes) who can take as long as 18 months to reach growth maturity.

Pet's Age	Human Years
1 year	15 years
2 years	24 years
3 years	28 years
4 years	32 years
5 years	36 years
6 years	40 years
7 years	44 years
8 years	48 years
9 years	52 years
10 years	56 years
11 years	60 years
12 years	64 years
13 years	68 years
14 years	72 years
15 years	76 years
16 years	80 years
17 years	84 years
18 years	88 years

Obedience & Training:
Because Cockapoos are very intelligent, they are a joy to train for anything. We strongly recommend basic obedience training for a number of reasons - the most important, however, is to create a better little "citizen". Dogs who have learned good manners are much more fun to own and be around. At the very least, you should teach the basic commands of Come, Sit, Down (lie down), Wait, and Stay. "Off" not "Down" is the command generally used to tell a dog not to jump up. If your puppy becomes proficient in just these few things, you both will enjoy your times together much more! The AKC Canine Good Citizen Program is a super program and it's open to ALL dogs, not just purebreds.

But I really LIKE this training stuff!! Well, with the previously-listed commands, you have only scratched the surface. Cockapoos can learn much more and can successfully compete in non-purebred competitions. Obedience titles go from Novice to Expert in several areas. Agility is the newest craze for dog athletes. It's a good workout for owners, too! Check with local Breeders, Veterinarians, Groomers, or Kennels for referrals to classes. GO FOR IT!

Traveling with your Puppy:
For that first ride in the car, it is highly likely that your puppy will throw up! If picking up your new dog from the Breeder, be sure to take an old towel or blanket that can be washed easily. Otherwise, rides in the car can be the most fun ever (this is what you want) or the dreaded "Trip to the Vet/Groomer/Kennel" (whatever is a fate worse than death). The solution is simple. Take your dog riding in the car to fun places OTHER than the Vet/Groomer/Kennel! Take him with you when you go to the store. Just ride around the neighborhood a few times. Go to the park. Go get an ice cream cone (give him a lick - not chocolate). ANYTHING that's not the "fate worse than death" kind of ride. Then you will find that your dog won't even mind "those" rides that much.

Long trips and vacations take some additional advance planning. For instance, are you driving your car or flying? Most other forms of public transportation do not allow pets. Does the hotel/motel allow pets? Do they have kennel facilities for pets? How will you find a Veterinarian if you need one? If you travel out of state, most states require a health certificate from your vet. It is required for all air travel. One sure thing is that your dog MUST be comfortable in a crate (airline approved type) unless you are driving your car to your relative's or best friend's house who "just loves your dog"! Trips in the car will be safer with your dog in a crate. Your stay in any hotel will be more comfortable if you can safely confine your dog. A crate (or cabin carrier for extra small dogs) is required on all airplanes. There is also a restriction on flying an animal when the temperature is too hot or cold. Check with the airlines well in advance. All in all, proper planning is the key.

Using a Crate/Cage for Training:
Dogs are den creatures. In the wild, they live in caves and other sheltered, secure areas. For this reason, dogs generally like (and often prefer), sleeping and resting in a "den". They feel safe and secure in this protected environment.

Crates come in many types and sizes. For your adult dog, his crate should be large enough for him to stand up, turn around easily and lie down comfortably. All crate or cage manufacturers have dimensions and charts which identify what size is appropriate for what breed of dog. For Cockapoos, use the size recommended for a Cocker Spaniel.

When your puppy is young and too small for his crate, divide the space so he has just enough room to turn around and lie down. Some cages come with dividers. For airline crates, a cardboard box pushed in to the back of the crate works just fine.

Bedding for the Crate:
Use something that is easily washed and quickly dried like baby receiving blankets, old towels, old T-shirt, an old non-wool blanket cut into squares, quilted pads, fake sheepskin pads (washable). You get the idea... Don't use newspaper! It just seems to promote accidents.

Recommended Reading:
We recommend the first two books to anyone who buys a dog from us:

How to Raise a Puppy You can Live With
by Rutherford & Neil
Anything you ever wanted to know about raising a "good" puppy. Defines the stages of development, expectations, personalities, etc. There's also a companion video.

The Canine Good Citizen: Every Dog Can be One
by Jack & Wendy Volhard
This book explains the AKC program and contains instructions on how to achieve recognition for your dog as a Canine Good Citizen.

Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook
by Carlson & Giffen
This book offers clearly-written, comprehensive information on every phase of health care for dogs.

What Should We Name Him?:
You would never believe how often we get asked this question! Unless you have a name picked out before you even meet your new puppy, it may take a few days to decide on one. Some folks have a name picked out before they even see the puppy, but most people need some "thought-starters" so we've gathered a few suggestions.

Watch your dog to see how he behaves. Is he quiet, energetic, bouncing off the walls? Does he follow you everywhere or sit calmly chewing on a toy? What size is he? It might seem strange for your 5 pound Toy to be named "Hercules" or "Bruiser"!

When you think of a name for your dog, imagine having to shout it out loud in your neighborhood. This should give you an idea whether it's a good name or maybe not! Your dog won't care what his name is, but if you name your dog "Charlie" after your brother-in-law, your brother-in-law might not appreciate it.

Dogs seem to respond better to names with two or more syllables, rather than just one. It makes it easier for them to differentiate between their name, "Shakespeare", "Dixie", etc. and a command like "sit", "stay", "come", "down", etc. which all have only one syllable. This isn't a hard & fast rule, just a suggestion. Whatever name you decide, use it as often as possible for the first few days so your dog will learn it quickly. The list referenced below should give you a few ideas.

List of Possible Dog Names