Steffie's Tip: Go to YouTube to get How To's for the health of your
Something just occured to me today,,as I was sanding the back nails of a very well exercised little Yorkie,,I noticed
it really didn't need them done at all, in fact, it looked like the little guy was walking around on nails that had just been
done,, I mean, the 'stop point' or the tip of the quick was visible,, the fleshy looking pinkish grey spot in the middle of
the nail,,, there were several right up there on the surface,,none were bleeding,, but,,it just made me think,,,I wonder if
this is painful for a dog, to walk around on these,, his mom and dad said they hadnt had his nails done in forever,, and,
the front ones were a little long,,definately longer than the back ones,,,it looked like his natural style is to push off
alot with his back feet,,so,,anyway,, I just posed that question to his parents,,,is it possible to walk a dog too much,,
to where their feet/nails, become painful,,,We agreed that since the little guy couldnt talk, it was hard to say,,,being a
groomer, though, I see first hand how touchy all dogs are when you sand to just that same point,, the pink grey fleshy spot,,they
dont like it, and they do pull their feet back so I dont sand any further,,so,,it's all something to think about,,and something
for me to find out about from a vet,,each case is different no doubt,,,I know there are rubber caps I can buy and put on your
dogs toenails, for fashion and to keep them from scratching the floor, you legs, etc,,I wonder how long they would last on
a pet that is walked alot,,hmm
Also, the pushing off with the back legs tells me the dog is excited, and probably pulls at his leash alot,
that didnt seem to be a problem with this little guy, he had a strong voice box and barked alot and loudly, but I saw on Dogs
101 on TV that Yorkies should wear harnesses, because their throats are easily damaged. I am thinking that with a front-hooking
harness/leash system, it would stop him from pulling so hard, and then the back toes wouldnt get so much more of a workout
than the front,,it would even things up a bit,,,next time those folks come for grooming I will suggest that,,,
thanx for letting me chatter on!
Ok, now, read more about Toe Nails below,,,
Here are some ways to improve your success with trimming nails
There are some great vids on grooming here, check them out! Especially the one about dremmeling nails-click on this underlined
I found the one by Heidi's Mobile Dog Grooming (the one with the hairless man in a brown shirt) was really good,(I didn't
watch them all) because he said to 'lock' your thumbs/hands together so when the dog pulls reflexively, the dremmel goes in
tandem. I also liked how he said when you've gone far enough on the nail, the dog will tell you when to stop,,,will pull extra
quick in slight discomfort when you get near the tender part of the quick's front fleshy part.
Toenail trimming is traumatic to a dog, first of all, because dogs are very protective of their feet,,especially their front
feet,,it is a survival thing,,,without feet they cannot walk, hunt, find food. Another reason is, there is a struggle in a
dogs mind,,,one of pecking order, or placement/order in the pack,,the 'Upper Hand' is an ancient body language message that
says that the person, or in this case, dog, with the hand on top 'wins', is the more dominant one. The total hand grasping
the paw is the same thing as having 'the upper hand' on your dog, and is instantly recognized as a challenge of order. Many
dogs who are already submissive and 'know their place' won't struggle much. But many dog's survival mode is triggered, and
they meet the challenge with an automatic reflex, struggling, pulling the foot away, and sometimes growling or biting. If
you think your pet may bite, better to muzzle now.
Your dog may also think he is dominant over you, in every other way in life as well, that he can get away with, so if
you think this is the problem, if your dog struggles alot, if you 'give in' when that happens, and you know it is a dominance
issue, and not a fear issue, the dog will continue his struggling because 'it works',,you stopped. Better to continue what
you are doing, ie, just grind a little on one nail, then stop of your own accord, then change the subject,,comb his hair,
pluck some ear hairs, inspect his coat,,then go back to the next nail, slowly gaining the upper hand right along with gentle
persuasive trust building methods, using encouraging words, being a nice teacher like 'Mama Dog' would do. Remember though,
even Mama Dog sometimes needs to do a quick 'Check' on Puppy, so you can sometimes use a "TSCHT!" sound, which will
say "Stop It!" and a thumb/forefinger+middlefinger 'bite' pinch on the upper neck like Alpha/Mama dog would do.
You may also want to Alpha Doggie your dog, which is a whole other thing,,Google it, or,,go to YouTube and do search on
Alpha Dog Your Dog, you will find alot of help there on that.
Please also go to http://www.cesarsway.com Cezar Millan's site.
As a groomer, I cannot take the time to just do one nail per session,,you can do this at home though, maybe one nail per
day. But my customers expect me to just get the job that they dont want to do done,,
One of the best things I have found is to use peanut butter smeared on the roof of the dog's mouth, and quickly doing
as many nails as possible while they chew...they easily associate peanut butter with nail trimming, so you have to make sure
to later give them peanut butter as a good boy treat for something else good they do that is fun, like fetching, etc.
Nose-In Park in my 10 Minute Loading Zone, or find On-Street Parking. Please watch you dont block anyone else's driveways.,
Also, be aware of the 1 Hour parking limit signs. The parking 'cop's' do ticket actively here.
*You will want to bring your dog in on a leash, wearing a collar with ID.
This is a busy street, my neighbors may
be watching you, and carry cell phones and like to take pictures,,,I have gotten tickets for not leashing my pets, please
either carry your pet in your arms, a carrier, or on leash, Thx!
Look for the house with the red fence, enter gate,
please make sure gate is latched behind you!
Follow doggy paw-prints to the side door, my new full service grooming salon
is in the basement now, not too many stairs,, Either you or I can carry your pet down if they cant walk it,, I can lift up
to 50 lbs, if your pet cant walk and is heavier then that, you will need to help me. I also have a shower in the upstairs,
there are less stairs to that, and can I groom up there still, but, stairs are stairs,,,I do not have a hydraulic lift table
or bath, although some groomers do, you will have to call around.
*Secure Gated Back Run Area.
Body Harness instead of noose used at all times your pet is up on Groom Table or Bath (this eliminates chance of accidental
strangulation, and keeps pet safe in case they decide to try to take a 'swan dive' off)
*No Slicker Brush 'Burns',
I know how to properly use this brush, and try not to use it unless I have to,,, it is great to use initially on brush-out,
if the pet is a bit matted, but there are more humane brushes, and combs available that I use. The draw back with this brush
is that it is possible to poke the thin little wires into the skin if held at the wrong angle, causing pain, and repeated
hard brushing can really scrape up the skin too, so I just do not like them, but I do know that with a light touch, and held
perpendicular/flat to the coat, this is a safe enough brush.
*No Clipper Burns- they are caused by not checking
the temperature of the blade against the groomer's own skin. The clipper blade is actually made of 2 blades vibrating against
each other which heats them up after just a little while, I know to check and do check frequently, against my cheek, and your
pet will never get clipper burns from me. If your dog ever comes home with red marks, especially noticeable at the underbelly,
this is either clipper burn or slicker brush burn, you should call the groomer to complain, and not go back there.)They should
at least tell you of any such grooming injuries incurred at their establishment. You should feel free in asking if your pet
bled during nail clipping or if their are any other injuries, if you suspect it, or even if you just want to know. Speaking
for all groomers, we may get a little 'testy' at being doubted for our abilities/honesty, but if we are on the up and up,
we will tell you if we did,, as the case may be, we may have but just forgotten to tell you. One case I heard of was when
a groomer accidentally clipped the pet's ear, glued it (which is normal procedure used by many groomers) but did not tell
the client, the tiny wound opened up again in the car, and bled everywhere causing a mess, (the ear is filled with many tiny
capillaries)It would have been much better to have forewarned the owner, and make her aware so she could protect the ear.
*Another thing about clippers, reportedly there is a possibility of tearing the pet's flesh with a blade if held wrong,,,I
have never experienced this myself, and have been using clippers for a long time now, and am very careful around delicate
areas such as ears, leg and foot webs, anus and undercarriage, I make sure to use the clipper correctly, using my fingers
and hand as a buffer, lifting up and out and away from anything as I go. Only the number 40 blade is to be used on cats and
delicate skin of elder pets.
*Sanding The Preferred Method-Toenail clipping is tricky even for the most seasoned groomers,
the dog can wiggle at just the wrong moment. Clear/white nails are easier to see the quick through, black nails have to be
treated differently, and just 'nibbled' at, I have a great website for you to see:
I have been taught physically, too, how to do trim properly. I won't say I have never caused a dog to bleed, I have,
more at the beginning, very rarely now,,, the styptic powder and gel I keep on hand clots the blood quickly, and is antibacterial,
and contains pain reliever. There are some groomers and even vets and vet techs I have heard that will clip the nails mercilessly
close, causing pain and bleeding to all nails they think are too long. I believe this is inhumane, cruel, and should only
be done under anesthesia, at a time such as when the pet is under already for some other procedure, such as teeth cleaning,
etc. If your groomer does this, I would complain, report them, and not take my pet there ever again, no matter how 'good'
they seem to be. No animal, pet or otherwise, ever deserves this treatment. I have seen it done. The elder pet may not express
pain, but may pant heavily, salivate, and become agitated. It's not good. The pain does eventually go away, but it's just
stupid to be so cruel. The only time I would recommend this sort of solution is if the dog is severely crippled from it's
nails being too long, and it is too old for anesthesia (although they have greatly improved anesthetics now) In that case,
make sure the pet has a bit of a save tranquilizer, and the vet uses pain meds, topically and orally.
grass heads, tar, other foreign objects: I know to check the whole body for these, remove, cleanse and put antibacterial ointment
on them if needed, and will tell you if I have, and where it is, to keep an eye on. If there is something I cannot remove
I will tell you to take your pet to a vet to do it, and, please do it right away.
*I frequently check the temperature
of the water I use during the bath, and only use Luke Warm water.
*You will never find me squirting water directly
into a dogs eyes, up their nose, or into their ears. I hate to say it, but I have witnessed other groomers doing this, and
abhor the behavior. They do it, the dog hates it, they do it some more, and laugh. Disgusting!!!!!That is just cruel.
can understand using water to break up a dogfight. Some doggy daycares (probably all) use a squirt bottle with water to stop
dogs barking, or being rough with each other...well, maybe this is standard procedure, maybe not so bad if the animal is able
to dodge out of the way,,,but some groomers do it while the dog is in the cage, and there is no room to avoid the spray, the
groomer just continues to spray the animal until it is breathless and choking,,but many times this only keeps the dog from
barking for a moment. Supposedly, all the groomer has to do is show the spray bottle to the dog if it starts barking again,
and it will stop,,,sometimes this works, but, do we really need to go there,, do we really need to cage animals, let alone
treat them this way? This is a whole huge topic for dog behaviorists, barking dogs can be trained, the best way is 'feed the
behavior you want',, if the dog is quiet, praise them for being quiet, (praise is as good as a food treat!)if they bark, turn
your head, disgusted, 'yuck!', turn your body, your body language says 'I am ignoring you, you are not getting attention,
of any kind, for barking.' As soon as they quiet again, praise, give attention, feed a treat. That it!!Keep it up, be consistent!
Remember, even 'negative attention' is still attention. Dogs thrive on attention. Don't reward bad behavior with attention
of any kind. But if you are gone all day, come home and yell 'no!' at an attention starved dog, even that is great stuff to
them! They may continue to bark, in happiness,, Best to just go to them right away, spend some time with them, calm them down,
give em love! They missed you!
*All bathing supplies are natural, and non-toxic. I use a tearless shampoo for
the head and face, and if ticks are a possibility, I use a good natural citronella shampoo to get rid of them. Your pet may
not come home smelling like Pina Coladas or Bubblegum, because I don't use any man made chemical scents. Since Bluing is a
chemical colorant, I do not use Bluing either, on a regular basis, but if you specifically request it, I have it, and will
use it, to whiten or darken the coat. I don't use any bleach either, but if you request it, there are some good Dog Coat Whiteners
on the market I will order and use regularly to bring your dogs coat up whiter, no extra charge.
*There is no
chance your pet will die of heat stroke because I do not use cages nor cage dryers. My little dryer is hand-held, by me, on
warm only, and is used in an area far away from any source of water, the outlet is gfi protected.
After each and every pet, I disinfect. I now use a Clorox product that gets rid of everything, once a week. In between I use food
Grade Hydrogen Peroxide Spray in it's proper dilution. Please 'google' it, and find out more about it.
not use any PineSol or Lysol products, etc,, nor was it used as I grew up, my family just never has, and, guess
what? We lived! And our pet's were/are safer for it too. Mom liked Ammonia, I never use it, and hate it's fumes, but now sometimes
I use Windex, mostly just Vinegar. (but not on the hardwood floors at it will darken them)
*Muzzles,,,I don't want
to use them, but if I have to, it is just while I have to, and not unless I feel threatened.
only have one dog here at a time, there are never any dog fights. I have not been bitten by a dog yet. I believe if I have
clear and kind intention, and explain what is happening to the pet as I go, they are fine. Dogs bite from fear and from dominance,
I take extra time to calm fearful pets, and although even small dogs can try to be dominant, a little time spent convincing
them 'I'm the Boss' goes along way to a calm grooming experience. I do this with love, kindness, and a firm tone when needed.
I had to do the 'Alpha Dog' thing with my own Lhasa, she came to me a stray, tried to be the 'boss' around here, and I had
to put both my hands on her shoulders, hold her down, and 'growl' telling her 'no, I am the boss!", until she stopped struggling,,,it
took about 3 or 4 minutes, since then she has never tried to growl, snap or bite me. If your dog acts like the boss, you should
try this, it works!!
I won't do it to your dog, but if you need help to do it at your house, I will go with you to
do it. I am not a dog behaviorist, who knows, it may not work for you, but worth a try, right? If not, there are 'Dog Behaviorist's'
*I know basic First Aid, for people and pets, and keep a kit. I am not a veterinarian, or vet tech, I have
not done animal CPR on a dog that needed it, but I have read vet tech books and web articles on it, practiced it on my own
pets so I am familiar with the procedures, and believe if the need arose I could perform it and hopefully save the pets life.
I keep a CPR how-to guide readily available to refer to if I need, that tells me of the ABC's (Airway,Breathing,Circulation)
of CPR. If any emergency happens, I will do what I can to keep the pet breathing, keep it from bleeding, keep it safe, calm,
and immediately call you, perhaps I would need to transport your dog to an emergency vet. I will do this if I need to, even
if I can't get a hold of you, and I expect you to pick up the tab for all emergency services. Emergency's happen, I will absorb
the money/time it takes me to transport the pet until it goes in to see the doctor,,, from then on, the pet is your physical
and financial responsibility. I promise to do everything I can to reach you, and continue trying, until you are reached. I
have various sizes of pet carriers for safe transportation.
If your dog is very elderly, has known heart/other known
health concerns, you may need to get an opinion from your vet as to whether to have your pet groomed or not. I will want to
know, either way. I am not responsible if your dog dies of a heart attack or other normal,age related diseases, on my property.
That being said, if you choose me, and I think it is safe to bathe and groom your pet, I will treat your pet with utmost care
and gentleness, never lift the heart patient up onto its hind legs only, go slow, take alot of breaks, never pull it's legs
out at unnatural angles, I will be aware and careful of arthritic joints, speak louder for hearing disabled, and in general
be the best geriatric groomer I can be,,, I did groom my family Maltese, and did so during his elder years. Toward the end,
when he was not feeling well, it became unnecessary and pretty much impossible to groom him very well, just the minimal amount,
and I had to leave some little mats in, rather than pester him too much,,, that was ok, he was sick, and no longer cared how
pretty he was anyway. He passed peacefully, even if a bit ragged looking! So, I say this to let you know that I do have experience
with elderly pets. But even the older guys love being clean, as long as they are able!
Anyway, if your pet is going
in for a procedure at the vet, you may want me to groom him/her, nicer for the vet, and pet!
These are just some of
the basic safety measures I observe, and practice, and you should feel completely safe while your pet is here, at Steffies
Check Out This Site~ Toxins: Common signs: Drooling, trembling,abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, coma & disorientation.
Less severe: sneezing, coughing, itching, excessive licking/sucking feet, rubbing teary eyes,,all could be symptoms!
Which Toys Are Safe? Avoid Lead, Cadmium, etc! (btw: made for humans real tennis balls tested safe Ive heard, but many of
the made for dog ones dont!)Here is a link to read about Toxic Pet Toys(click anywhere on these underlined words)
And heres another:
Re: Itchy Pets.
Lawn/landscaping plant fertilizers can cause irritation on you pet’s feet, so can anything with Phenols, so can a myriad
of common housecleaning products. Your pet walks, later lays down and cleans it’s feet, ingesting all it has walked
in. Please give your pet’s feet a rinse after walking outdoors, and be careful of the products you use in your home,
for your sake and your pets. Beautiful lawns are chemically treated 4-5 times a year. Freshly treated lawns are hazardous,
and cause severe toxic reactions such as poisoning, itching reactions, obsessive licking, swelling, allergy symptoms, some
pets more severely than others.
Molds, mildews, excessive dust can cause pets to itch, as well as other outdoor allergens,
To see the list of worst trees and plants for allergy sufferers: for me, my pets are exposed to
Ash,aspen ,elm,eucalyptus,mountain laurel,oaks,poplar, privet, red cedar, silver maple,smoke tree,sumac walnut,willows and
assorted allergy-causing flowers and grasses,, if you or your pet have trouble, you can read more. Keep pet indoors when pollen
count is high, vacuum the pet (?!), or wash or blot off feet with damp washcloth. Bathe frequently with hypoallergenic shampoos,
or just warm water.
There are special self administered allergy vaccines available to start before allergy season starts to immunize your pet
against those trees and grasses and molds that most frequently bother pets, available with certain pet skin vets, for you
to look into. Allergy problems can get worse with age, so what once was a mild problem for my cat, Bitta, this Spring and
Summer was tortuous, now that he is 7, but just getting completely off of chicken, and the end of Summer did the trick, he’s
looking gorgeous this winter,, but spring and summer 2011 are coming…
As a local groomer in close in Southeast Portland, and Semi-Hairless Mother Of 5 Fur Kids, I was pleased to experience a decline
in flea problems with most of my own and others pets, in comparison with a couple of years ago,, maybe asking the Universe
to rid my life of fleas helped, maybe the increased vigilance with bathing, cleaning, laundry,, I don’t know, it’s
odd, really, because I am doing twice the business I was last year, and last year was twice as good as the year before that…I
think in general, folks are more educated, care more, and are better armed against them,, Personally I use Advantage, and
Neem and now Karanja Oil, and Citronella, as well as Lavender, Eucalyptus and Cedar. Most of my clients are really good to
their pets and take care of any flea problems as soon as they crop up. I have only had to use Flea Dip on 2 pets this year,
using more natural shampoo’s have done the trick on the other dozen or so that have had trouble this year,,not bad,
I have all hardwood floors with throw rugs that I wash about every week (if they can remain un-pee’d on for that long!)
All the individual pets beds get washed as often. I bathe my dogs about 1x a month, I never bathe my cats, but I comb them,
I can proudly say, no fleas! I have sprayed the premises with beneficial Nematodes that get rid of flea larvae, that helps
Pet’s that have access to dust-bathing are usually more comfortable.
Fleas don’t live as much around pets that are healthy, so I pay attention to that.
Watch your pet, if it scratches vigorously, it probably just got bit, by something,, Was it the eye?(pollen?) or mouth area?
(food allergy?) Ears? (mites?)head (fleas?mosquitoes?) On top on the back?(mosquitoe,flea, or biting/horse fly?) feet/(bee
sting, allergy to chemicals?) Butt area? (fleas?) Urine burns in matted dirty coated pets, especially elderly causes discomfort,
biting at butt, scooting can mean anal gland problems in dogs. Urine/feces burns and fungal infections cause great discomfort
in neglected and/or caged animals. Chewing at toenails indicates toenails need trimming, and or fungus. Bored pets kept in
crates may suck their feet and in white dogs their feet may stain from it. Inspect the coat, if you see tiny speckles or squiggly
black debris, even if you don’t see a flea, you have fleas. If you have one flea, you have up to hundreds you don’t
know about, in various stages of life, hiding in various places in your home and yard. Now our climate is warming, mosquitoes
may bite your pet, you can use citronella and neem products, also, there are hundreds of different kinds of mites, little
red mites that bother birds may be a cause.
Biting pests come into our lives because squirrels, birds, raccoons, rodents, and other pet’s bring them, they come
in on other people’s clothes. Some are attracted to our carbon dioxide, if we breath we probably have blood,,,,If there
is a recently diseased furry thing under the bushes, it’s fleas will jump on your pet fast as lightning, seeking it’s
new warmth, so keep pet’s away from those, if you can. Inspect your yard before letting Fido run around, and if your
out on a nature excursion, might as well bathe your pet right after, be sure to check for ticks again in a couple of days,,
they come onboard flat and small and hard to see, but swell up after a day or two of feasting,, Use warm water, and dog ph
balanced shampoo. If you pet gets all bit up with mosy’s or fleas, you can try one of many OTC stop-itch formulas, or
just boil so oatmeal a lot, let cool to tepid, smear and soak on pet a while. I have even used Calamine lotion, and liquid
clay called ‘slip’ which works well,, a bit too dusty for indoors when it dries, but the pet’s itch gets
relief . Use a baking soda and water paste on bee stings and horse-fly bites.
Sometimes an itch will be caused by another pet in a fight. Clean it with peroxide, right away, but if it’s already
infected, clip the hair around it, get a ¼ cup of pretty good and warm water and 2 T Epsom salt’s, dip a corner of a
washrag in it and soak the wound as long as you can, gently working the infection out and into the cloth. Dip a clean corner
in cup and re-soak, then blot dry,,repeat several times a day til healed. I have had great success using Willard Water to
help speed the healing process, and to keep a scab from forming too soon. Once there is no more swelling you can allow the
scab to form, but keep the pet from scratching it,,you may need to use (the proper dosage for your pet)baby benadryl, and
or an Elizabethan Collar.Products with salicylic acid helps sooth, and I have used my Phisoderm to clean my cat’s
infected scratch wounds with great success, too. Since Prevention is worth a pound of cure, keep your eyes open.
Regular house cleaning is a must,, you don’t have to be OCD about it, but consistency works well.
There is lots of info on the ‘net, so learn lots, that’s your best defense.
Unseen teeny mites are everywhere too, some may be on your pets driving them crazy, and even though you do everything you
can to get rid of fleas, your pet may still itch. At that point, or even before, try adding 10% Karanja and 10% Neem to your
pets shampoo, (try Snowdrift Farms online) soak for 5-10 minutes, rinse, use something like Lavender after bath to hide the
smell (garlic-y) I have even used prescription Sulfur, the Karanja Oil helped better. I read soaking your pet for 5 or so
minutes in olive oil will kill fleas, too,, what it does to the planet not as bad as some things I guess…
Remember, sometimes an itch will be bothersome for around 3 days afterwards, so don’t go insane,, just know you have
done what you needed to, then wait a few days before you panic and try something else,, work with the lightest most natural
remedies first, with frequent regular use, before moving onto the heavier chemical stuff. Sometimes Total Knockdown chemicals
are required, look into Vet Kem Siphotrol foggers and premise sprays, I have used them in the past with great success, for
extremely severe infestations.
Internally, Fish/Flax Omg3 oils help, and d-alpha E, even just a little extra good oil or ghee can help with dry skin itch,,but
out of 5 pets I only have one that likes the taste of fish oil,, love that cat, the others I just bite the capsule with my
canines, and squirt the contents into their mouth (yuck, mom!)
With food alergies, they sometimes scratch at their face, lowering/changing the protein source helps,, switch it up,,fish,
chicken, turkey, beef, duck, bison, venison, try less protein, try different types of well-cooked grains, besides white rice.
Try yams/sweet potatoes, peas as source of carbs. Add egg now and then. (Even though Bitta is allergic to chicken, a little
cooked egg was ok)
I have used the Barf Diet (Bones and Raw Food/Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) with great success, and, the vet loves how
clean my pets teeth are from that. Any cut up chicken parts with bones just boil for 30 seconds and toss on the floor mat
for the dog to go carnivore over,, crunch, yum, grrrreat! (just don’t try to take it from them,,finger bones look too
I hear a bit of garlic for dogs, and I have heard about certain brewer’s yeasts, I don’t bother, but google it,
Make sure to check your pet’s ears for mites, use a bit of witchhazel or 70% isopropil alchohol on cotton ball to clean
“My dog has the ‘Runs’, should I take him to the groomers?”
Every once in a while, your darling Fur Kid will
ingest something awful, and get ‘the runs’,
You can take him to the Vet right away, or, you
may try to save money, and treat him yourself.
Many of us will try to self-diagnose, and try to
treat Pup with yogurt, or OTC anti-diarrheals
You’re stuck with the decision, to bathe him
yourself, or just take him to the groomers?
Maybe just use a towel to clean him up for now,
wait a bit and see how it goes.
You watch, and wait. If it continues, you grow alarmed,
call the vet, the groomer, “Help!”
Sometimes, God forbid, there is Company Coming (talk
about terrible timing!) and you just don’t have time to deal with it yourself.
If you do get a groomer to take your Pup right away, you will want to tell the groomer the problem. The groomer will
want to put Pup directly into the bathtub, and disinfect after. You don’t know what he
and it may be something contagious. Special handling has to be done.
It’s not a good time to ask for a full groom,
or even just nails too, because Pup is Sick. In fact, if it’s ok with you and the groomer, it is probably better that
just bathing the rear end to clean off the mess is done, and not the whole dog, until Pup is diagnosed at the vet, and well.
You don’t want a sick dog to be all wet and shivery, especially if it turns out to be Parvo. And, you could be paying
for a full groom, when it’s just going to turn around and mess itself again anyway. So, call the vet, get an appointment
right away, then either pop him in the bathtub or take him to the groomer to wash the area with shampoo, then disinfect everything
he came in contact with, with recommended disinfectants. It could be something ‘Catching’.
Remember, if you do decide to take a sick pet anywhere, be sure to put a blanket you can wash, down in the car or carrier
first, and an extra towel you take in with you to clean up ‘accident’s’. Also, take a large plastic back
for soiled towel and blanket, afterwords.
Give the prescribed medicines, keep Pup quiet and reasonably clean, give him time to recover, before worrying about
how pretty or sweet smelling, or ‘presentable’ he looks.
Caused by change in diet, eating something infected with Giardia, etc, perhaps something worse like Parvo, diarrhea
can be quite debilitating, it can cause dehydration, so the vet will want to give a stool
test (so, if you bathe your dog before taking him to the vet, save some pooh in a ziplock baggy to take with you) and blood
tests, IV Fluid Replacement, and other medications.
In the future, the best thing is to not let your pet drink anything but tap water, out of a clean bowl.
No matter how tiny and pretty, all Dogs are opportunistic
scavengers at heart, and if there is something stinky and gross it wants to eat, and you are not looking, it may gulp it down
before you can stop him. Try to make sure your pet is healthy, has a strong immune system, so he can ward off most all problems.
Start providing ProBiotics, as a preventative, support, and to heal.
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