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Forth of July is OVER, so stop poppin the fireworks, geeeze!!! Remember to go out and pick up your garbage leftover spent casings, too, give a hoot don't pollute! ;) curious critters and birds get sick from them.
ok, now, what about all this SUN? Yes, you can put a dab of kids waterproof sunblock on top of Pup's nose where the hair is thin if in the sun a lot, but don't be out too much cause the ground is really really fry an egg on it hot and will blister and overheat your dog,,have you heard of The Dog Day's Of Summer,? I think it may mean those times of day, about noon to 6 pm, when dogs naturally keep cool by sleeping in the shade, a natural thing for all living creatures,,you may be a sun worshiper, Pup is not,,so don't force him or her, ok!!! Heatstroke is a real danger. heavy panting, bright red tongue and gums and inside mouth, all signs of heatstroke. Put lots of cold water on dog or submerge, water on top of head, too,,brains are cooking!! and get into shade immediately! Offer water but don't force it, Pup could choke.

It's Memorial Day Weekend, 2014! So, remember Safety for your pets:
keep pets away from fireworks.
no playing around barbeque, hot coals hurt!
Use Lavender and/or Citronella scents to keep mosquitioes, fleas, ticks off, or get your pet on 'the hard stuff' topicals like Advantage II, etc.
Start adding a little garlic into their food, keeps fleas away. Dust with Diatomaceous Earth, available at Steffies House Dog Grooming.
Small dogs will benefit from wearing their own tiny Life Vest floatation vest around water, make sure it fits right, and test it.
Make Bee Traps with 2 litre bottles for your picnic.
Tell everyone if your dog is on a diet, so Little Fatty isn't snuck secret snacks, obesity in dogs is a very real problem.
Inspect your pet periodically for burrs, screwgrass, ticks, balls of pine sap and tar, these can become big problems. Don't forget to check their ears, folds of the paw pads, and between toes.
Check for cuts from glass too, our beaches are not pristine.
Get a bottle of Dickensons Witch Hazel for hot spots, general itchiness and 1st aid.
On white dogs, put kids waterproof sunblock on the top of their noses, (maybe give them some peanut butter to keep their tongue from licking the sunblock off)
Finally, (as far as all I can think of right now,,,!) keep your dog from chewing on rocks,,it's not funny when you have to pay big big money on dental work,,and wet dog food costs more too,,plus, teeth get rotten faster, and can shorten the dogs life.
Oh,,and hydrate hydrate hydrate!,,
ooh oh oh,,Portland has a Boil Water warning now for just today? hopefully we will know tomorrow,,so..yes boil your dogs water let it cool 1-2 hours,,clean, every water day!!

Summer is here 2013!!! I just heard on the news how a couples house caught on fire when their stainless steel dog bowl acted like a mangifiying glass and the sun turned into a sort of lazer beam,,they said it was in Arizona I think,,,,anyway, so, well the house didnt burn down so that's good,,, they said now they will use a plastic bowl,,
Thing is,,plastic will harbor icky stuff if not kept clean,,,
 What I am writing this all for is,,I was using the hose yesterday,,went to get some water for the outdoor plants,,the hose is kept in the sun,,and WOW that water came out HOT!!,,it got me thinking,,so I stuck my hand in the dog water bowl, also in the sun,,HOT!! Egad!,,
So, I put the (glass) bowl in the shade,,,and, I am recommending this to all who have pets,,keep the water in the shade,,or the pets cant and wont drink it,,that can lead to real trouble!!

I am seeing alot of Rescue Dogs adopted now,  a  rare few are new to being Socialized, and are still a bit fearful of new experiences,  and remain a little fearful of travel, and the whole 'grooming experience'. They can remain a little fearful,  and potential biters for a very long time. Even though I know the signs to look for,  please tell me if you think your dog does or may bite,,, and, if you are having trouble, go get a soft muzzle, to put on him/her when you come.  The Humane Society tries to make sure they release only non-biters, most Adopteds are wonderful, so I am very trusting. Please tell me if you have a Rescued Puppy Mill /Breeder dog, they are often the most unpredictable. Also, I only accept Neutered/Altered/Spayed/Fixed dogs, if they are over the age of 6 months. It goes without saying, please do not bring me any Fighting Dogs, and do not bring me your Breeders. I do not condone either. I only groom Nice Pets, and with over 4 Million dogs being euthanized every year, there is no reason to be breeding for fun or for profit. Thank you! 
2012 Update: I will no longer be taking Pure or Mixed Pit Bulls. I realize many are very sweet, and I will stop and pet them when at the park, however, these types of dogs were specifically bred for fighting big game, as war dogs, and bloodsport. It is 'in their blood' to do so, just as fetching is for Retrievers, and herding is for Shepherd breeds. While more reports of biting people falls on the 'family safe' Lab/Retriever group, it's more than likely that is because it is the most popular and numerous breed kept as pets,,,it's a Percentages thing, I think. I don't take on bully breeds because I have had a bad experience, and also because I'm not trained in proper procedures for safely handling large stong 'bully breeds.'  I am sorry for any disappointments and inconveniences and thank you for understanding. For more info on these breeds see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dog_fighting

Steffie's Tip: Go to YouTube to get How To's for the health of your Dog

Something just occured to me today,,as I was sanding the back nails of a very well exercised little Yorkie,,I noticed it really didn't need them done at all, in fact, it looked like the little guy was walking around on nails that had just been done,, I mean, the 'stop point' or the tip of the quick was visible,, the fleshy looking pinkish grey spot in the middle of the nail,,, there were several right up there on the surface,,none were bleeding,, but,,it just made me think,,,I wonder if this is painful for a dog, to walk around on these,, his mom and dad said they hadnt had his nails done in forever,, and, the front ones were a little long,,definately longer than the back ones,,,it looked like his natural style is to push off alot with his back feet,,so,,anyway,, I just posed that question to his parents,,,is it possible to walk a dog too much,, to where their feet/nails, become painful,,,We agreed that since the little guy couldnt talk, it was hard to say,,,being a groomer, though, I see first hand how touchy all dogs are when you sand to just that same point,, the pink grey fleshy spot,,they dont like it, and they do pull their feet back so I dont sand any further,,so,,it's all something to think about,,and something for me to find out about from a vet,,each case is different no doubt,,,I know there are rubber caps I can buy and put on your dogs toenails, for fashion and to keep them from scratching the floor, you legs, etc,,I wonder how long they would last on a pet that is walked alot,,hmm
   Also, the pushing off with the back legs tells me the dog is excited, and probably pulls at his leash alot, that didnt seem to be a problem with this little guy, he had a strong voice box and barked alot and loudly, but I saw on Dogs 101 on TV that Yorkies should wear harnesses, because their throats are easily damaged. I am thinking that with a front-hooking harness/leash system, it would stop him from pulling so hard, and then the back toes wouldnt get so much more of a workout than the front,,it would even things up a bit,,,next time those folks come for grooming I will suggest that,,,
thanx for letting me chatter on!
Ok, now, read more about Toe Nails below,,,

Here are some ways to improve your success with trimming nails

There are some great vids on grooming here, check them out! Especially the one about dremmeling nails-click on this underlined sentence.

I found the one by Heidi's Mobile Dog Grooming (the one with the hairless man in a brown shirt) was really good,(I didn't watch them all) because he said to 'lock' your thumbs/hands together so when the dog pulls reflexively, the dremmel goes in tandem. I also liked how he said when you've gone far enough on the nail, the dog will tell you when to stop,,,will pull extra quick in slight discomfort when you get near the tender part of the quick's front fleshy part.

Toenail trimming is traumatic to a dog, first of all, because dogs are very protective of their feet,,especially their front feet,,it is a survival thing,,,without feet they cannot walk, hunt, find food. Another reason is, there is a struggle in a dogs mind,,,one of pecking order, or placement/order in the pack,,the 'Upper Hand' is an ancient body language message that says that the person, or in this case, dog, with the hand on top 'wins', is the more dominant one. The total hand grasping the paw is the same thing as having 'the upper hand' on your dog, and is instantly recognized as a challenge of order. Many dogs who are already submissive and 'know their place' won't struggle much. But many dog's survival mode is triggered, and they meet the challenge with an automatic reflex, struggling, pulling the foot away, and sometimes growling or biting. If you think your pet may bite, better to muzzle now.
Your dog may also think he is dominant over you, in every other way in life as well, that he can get away with, so if you think this is the problem, if your dog struggles alot, if you 'give in' when that happens, and you know it is a dominance issue, and not a fear issue, the dog will continue his struggling because 'it works',,you stopped. Better to continue what you are doing, ie, just grind a little on one nail, then stop of your own accord, then change the subject,,comb his hair, pluck some ear hairs, inspect his coat,,then go back to the next nail, slowly gaining the upper hand right along with gentle persuasive trust building methods, using encouraging words, being a nice teacher like 'Mama Dog' would do. Remember though, even Mama Dog sometimes needs to do a quick 'Check' on Puppy, so you can sometimes use a "TSCHT!" sound, which will say "Stop It!" and a thumb/forefinger+middlefinger 'bite' pinch on the upper neck like Alpha/Mama dog would do.
You may also want to Alpha Doggie your dog, which is a whole other thing,,Google it, or,,go to YouTube and do search on Alpha Dog Your Dog, you will find alot of help there on that.

Please also go to http://www.cesarsway.com Cezar Millan's site.

As a groomer, I cannot take the time to just do one nail per session,,you can do this at home though, maybe one nail per day. But my customers expect me to just get the job that they dont want to do done,,
One of the best things I have found is to use peanut butter smeared on the roof of the dog's mouth, and quickly doing as many nails as possible while they chew...they easily associate peanut butter with nail trimming, so you have to make sure to later give them peanut butter as a good boy treat for something else good they do that is fun, like fetching, etc.

Nose-In Park in my 10 Minute Loading Zone, or find On-Street Parking. Please watch you dont block anyone else's driveways., Also, be aware of the 1 Hour parking limit signs. The parking 'cop's' do ticket actively here.
*You will want to bring your dog in on a leash, wearing a collar with ID.
This is a busy street, my neighbors may be watching you, and carry cell phones and like to take pictures,,,I have gotten tickets for not leashing my pets, please either carry your pet in your arms, a carrier, or on leash, Thx!

Look for the house with the red fence, enter gate, please make sure gate is latched behind you!
Follow doggy paw-prints to the side door, my new full service grooming salon is in the basement now, not too many stairs,, Either you or I can carry your pet down if they cant walk it,, I can lift up to 50 lbs, if your pet cant walk and is heavier then that, you will need to help me. I also have a shower in the upstairs, there are less stairs to that, and can I groom up there still, but, stairs are stairs,,,I do not have a hydraulic lift table or bath, although some groomers do, you will have to call around.

*Secure Gated Back Run Area.

*Full Body Harness instead of noose used at all times your pet is up on Groom Table or Bath (this eliminates chance of accidental strangulation, and keeps pet safe in case they decide to try to take a 'swan dive' off)

*No Slicker Brush 'Burns', I know how to properly use this brush, and try not to use it unless I have to,,, it is great to use initially on brush-out, if the pet is a bit matted, but there are more humane brushes, and combs available that I use. The draw back with this brush is that it is possible to poke the thin little wires into the skin if held at the wrong angle, causing pain, and repeated hard brushing can really scrape up the skin too, so I just do not like them, but I do know that with a light touch, and held perpendicular/flat to the coat, this is a safe enough brush.

*No Clipper Burns- they are caused by not checking the temperature of the blade against the groomer's own skin. The clipper blade is actually made of 2 blades vibrating against each other which heats them up after just a little while, I know to check and do check frequently, against my cheek, and your pet will never get clipper burns from me. If your dog ever comes home with red marks, especially noticeable at the underbelly, this is either clipper burn or slicker brush burn, you should call the groomer to complain, and not go back there.)They should at least tell you of any such grooming injuries incurred at their establishment. You should feel free in asking if your pet bled during nail clipping or if their are any other injuries, if you suspect it, or even if you just want to know. Speaking for all groomers, we may get a little 'testy' at being doubted for our abilities/honesty, but if we are on the up and up, we will tell you if we did,, as the case may be, we may have but just forgotten to tell you. One case I heard of was when a groomer accidentally clipped the pet's ear, glued it (which is normal procedure used by many groomers) but did not tell the client, the tiny wound opened up again in the car, and bled everywhere causing a mess, (the ear is filled with many tiny capillaries)It would have been much better to have forewarned the owner, and make her aware so she could protect the ear.

*Another thing about clippers, reportedly there is a possibility of tearing the pet's flesh with a blade if held wrong,,,I have never experienced this myself, and have been using clippers for a long time now, and am very careful around delicate areas such as ears, leg and foot webs, anus and undercarriage, I make sure to use the clipper correctly, using my fingers and hand as a buffer, lifting up and out and away from anything as I go. Only the number 40 blade is to be used on cats and delicate skin of elder pets.

*Sanding The Preferred Method-Toenail clipping is tricky even for the most seasoned groomers, the dog can wiggle at just the wrong moment. Clear/white nails are easier to see the quick through, black nails have to be treated differently, and just 'nibbled' at, I have a great website for you to see:


I have been taught physically, too, how to do trim properly. I won't say I have never caused a dog to bleed, I have, more at the beginning, very rarely now,,, the styptic powder and gel I keep on hand clots the blood quickly, and is antibacterial, and contains pain reliever. There are some groomers and even vets and vet techs I have heard that will clip the nails mercilessly close, causing pain and bleeding to all nails they think are too long. I believe this is inhumane, cruel, and should only be done under anesthesia, at a time such as when the pet is under already for some other procedure, such as teeth cleaning, etc. If your groomer does this, I would complain, report them, and not take my pet there ever again, no matter how 'good' they seem to be. No animal, pet or otherwise, ever deserves this treatment. I have seen it done. The elder pet may not express pain, but may pant heavily, salivate, and become agitated. It's not good. The pain does eventually go away, but it's just stupid to be so cruel. The only time I would recommend this sort of solution is if the dog is severely crippled from it's nails being too long, and it is too old for anesthesia (although they have greatly improved anesthetics now) In that case, make sure the pet has a bit of a save tranquilizer, and the vet uses pain meds, topically and orally.

*Embedded grass heads, tar, other foreign objects: I know to check the whole body for these, remove, cleanse and put antibacterial ointment on them if needed, and will tell you if I have, and where it is, to keep an eye on. If there is something I cannot remove I will tell you to take your pet to a vet to do it, and, please do it right away.

*I frequently check the temperature of the water I use during the bath, and only use Luke Warm water.

*You will never find me squirting water directly into a dogs eyes, up their nose, or into their ears. I hate to say it, but I have witnessed other groomers doing this, and abhor the behavior. They do it, the dog hates it, they do it some more, and laugh. Disgusting!!!!!That is just cruel.

I can understand using water to break up a dogfight. Some doggy daycares (probably all) use a squirt bottle with water to stop dogs barking, or being rough with each other...well, maybe this is standard procedure, maybe not so bad if the animal is able to dodge out of the way,,,but some groomers do it while the dog is in the cage, and there is no room to avoid the spray, the groomer just continues to spray the animal until it is breathless and choking,,but many times this only keeps the dog from barking for a moment. Supposedly, all the groomer has to do is show the spray bottle to the dog if it starts barking again, and it will stop,,,sometimes this works, but, do we really need to go there,, do we really need to cage animals, let alone treat them this way? This is a whole huge topic for dog behaviorists, barking dogs can be trained, the best way is 'feed the behavior you want',, if the dog is quiet, praise them for being quiet, (praise is as good as a food treat!)if they bark, turn your head, disgusted, 'yuck!', turn your body, your body language says 'I am ignoring you, you are not getting attention, of any kind, for barking.' As soon as they quiet again, praise, give attention, feed a treat. That it!!Keep it up, be consistent! Remember, even 'negative attention' is still attention. Dogs thrive on attention. Don't reward bad behavior with attention of any kind. But if you are gone all day, come home and yell 'no!' at an attention starved dog, even that is great stuff to them! They may continue to bark, in happiness,, Best to just go to them right away, spend some time with them, calm them down, give em love! They missed you!

*All bathing supplies are natural, and non-toxic. I use a tearless shampoo for the head and face, and if ticks are a possibility, I use a good natural citronella shampoo to get rid of them. Your pet may not come home smelling like Pina Coladas or Bubblegum, because I don't use any man made chemical scents. Since Bluing is a chemical colorant, I do not use Bluing either, on a regular basis, but if you specifically request it, I have it, and will use it, to whiten or darken the coat. I don't use any bleach either, but if you request it, there are some good Dog Coat Whiteners on the market I will order and use regularly to bring your dogs coat up whiter, no extra charge.

*There is no chance your pet will die of heat stroke because I do not use cages nor cage dryers. My little dryer is hand-held, by me, on warm only, and is used in an area far away from any source of water, the outlet is gfi protected.

*Cleanliness: After each and every pet, I disinfect. I now use a Clorox product that gets rid of everything, once a week. In between I use food Grade Hydrogen Peroxide Spray in it's proper dilution. Please 'google' it, and find out more about it. 

*I do not use any PineSol or Lysol products,  etc,, nor was it used as I grew up, my family just never has, and, guess what? We lived! And our pet's were/are safer for it too. Mom liked Ammonia, I never use it, and hate it's fumes, but now sometimes I use Windex, mostly just Vinegar. (but not on the hardwood floors at it will darken them)

*Muzzles,,,I don't want to use them, but if I have to, it is just while I have to, and not unless I feel  threatened. 

*Bites: I only have one dog here at a time, there are never any dog fights. I have not been bitten by a dog yet. I believe if I have clear and kind intention, and explain what is happening to the pet as I go, they are fine. Dogs bite from fear and from dominance, I take extra time to calm fearful pets, and although even small dogs can try to be dominant, a little time spent convincing them 'I'm the Boss' goes along way to a calm grooming experience. I do this with love, kindness, and a firm tone when needed. I had to do the 'Alpha Dog' thing with my own Lhasa, she came to me a stray, tried to be the 'boss' around here, and I had to put both my hands on her shoulders, hold her down, and 'growl' telling her 'no, I am the boss!", until she stopped struggling,,,it took about 3 or 4 minutes, since then she has never tried to growl, snap or bite me. If your dog acts like the boss, you should try this, it works!!

I won't do it to your dog, but if you need help to do it at your house, I will go with you to do it. I am not a dog behaviorist, who knows, it may not work for you, but worth a try, right? If not, there are 'Dog Behaviorist's' for hire.

*I know basic First Aid, for people and pets, and keep a kit. I am not a veterinarian, or vet tech, I have not done animal CPR on a dog that needed it, but I have read vet tech books and web articles on it, practiced it on my own pets so I am familiar with the procedures, and believe if the need arose I could perform it and hopefully save the pets life. I keep a CPR how-to guide readily available to refer to if I need, that tells me of the ABC's (Airway,Breathing,Circulation) of CPR. If any emergency happens, I will do what I can to keep the pet breathing, keep it from bleeding, keep it safe, calm, and immediately call you, perhaps I would need to transport your dog to an emergency vet. I will do this if I need to, even if I can't get a hold of you, and I expect you to pick up the tab for all emergency services. Emergency's happen, I will absorb the money/time it takes me to transport the pet until it goes in to see the doctor,,, from then on, the pet is your physical and financial responsibility. I promise to do everything I can to reach you, and continue trying, until you are reached. I have various sizes of pet carriers for safe transportation.

If your dog is very elderly, has known heart/other known health concerns, you may need to get an opinion from your vet as to whether to have your pet groomed or not. I will want to know, either way. I am not responsible if your dog dies of a heart attack or other normal,age related diseases, on my property. That being said, if you choose me, and I think it is safe to bathe and groom your pet, I will treat your pet with utmost care and gentleness, never lift the heart patient up onto its hind legs only, go slow, take alot of breaks, never pull it's legs out at unnatural angles, I will be aware and careful of arthritic joints, speak louder for hearing disabled, and in general be the best geriatric groomer I can be,,, I did groom my family Maltese, and did so during his elder years. Toward the end, when he was not feeling well, it became unnecessary and pretty much impossible to groom him very well, just the minimal amount, and I had to leave some little mats in, rather than pester him too much,,, that was ok, he was sick, and no longer cared how pretty he was anyway. He passed peacefully, even if a bit ragged looking! So, I say this to let you know that I do have experience with elderly pets. But even the older guys love being clean, as long as they are able!

Anyway, if your pet is going in for a procedure at the vet, you may want me to groom him/her, nicer for the vet, and pet!

These are just some of the basic safety measures I observe, and practice, and you should feel completely safe while your pet is here, at Steffies House!

Check Out This Site~ Toxins: Common signs: Drooling, trembling,abdominal pain, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, coma & disorientation. Less severe: sneezing, coughing, itching, excessive licking/sucking feet, rubbing teary eyes,,all could be symptoms!

Which Toys Are Safe? Avoid Lead, Cadmium, etc! (btw: made for humans real tennis balls tested safe Ive heard, but many of the made for dog ones dont!)Here is a link to read about Toxic Pet Toys(click anywhere on these underlined words)

And heres another:

Re: Itchy Pets.
Lawn/landscaping plant fertilizers can cause irritation on you pet’s feet, so can anything with Phenols, so can a myriad of common housecleaning products. Your pet walks, later lays down and cleans it’s feet, ingesting all it has walked in. Please give your pet’s feet a rinse after walking outdoors, and be careful of the products you use in your home, for your sake and your pets. Beautiful lawns are chemically treated 4-5 times a year. Freshly treated lawns are hazardous, and cause severe toxic reactions such as poisoning, itching reactions, obsessive licking, swelling, allergy symptoms, some pets more severely than others.
Molds, mildews, excessive dust can cause pets to itch, as well as other outdoor allergens,
From http://allergyware.wordpress.com/2006/04/08/which-flowers-and-trees-cause-the-most-allergies/
To see the list of worst trees and plants for allergy sufferers: for me, my pets are exposed to
Ash,aspen ,elm,eucalyptus,mountain laurel,oaks,poplar, privet, red cedar, silver maple,smoke tree,sumac walnut,willows and assorted allergy-causing flowers and grasses,, if you or your pet have trouble, you can read more. Keep pet indoors when pollen count is high, vacuum the pet (?!), or wash or blot off feet with damp washcloth. Bathe frequently with hypoallergenic shampoos, or just warm water.
There are special self administered allergy vaccines available to start before allergy season starts to immunize your pet against those trees and grasses and molds that most frequently bother pets, available with certain pet skin vets, for you to look into. Allergy problems can get worse with age, so what once was a mild problem for my cat, Bitta, this Spring and Summer was tortuous, now that he is 7, but just getting completely off of chicken, and the end of Summer did the trick, he’s looking gorgeous this winter,, but spring and summer 2011 are coming…
As a local groomer in close in Southeast Portland, and Semi-Hairless Mother Of 5 Fur Kids, I was pleased to experience a decline in flea problems with most of my own and others pets, in comparison with a couple of years ago,, maybe asking the Universe to rid my life of fleas helped, maybe the increased vigilance with bathing, cleaning, laundry,, I don’t know, it’s odd, really, because I am doing twice the business I was last year, and last year was twice as good as the year before that…I think in general, folks are more educated, care more, and are better armed against them,, Personally I use Advantage, and Neem and now Karanja Oil, and Citronella, as well as Lavender, Eucalyptus and Cedar. Most of my clients are really good to their pets and take care of any flea problems as soon as they crop up. I have only had to use Flea Dip on 2 pets this year, using more natural shampoo’s have done the trick on the other dozen or so that have had trouble this year,,not bad, huh?!
I have all hardwood floors with throw rugs that I wash about every week (if they can remain un-pee’d on for that long!) All the individual pets beds get washed as often. I bathe my dogs about 1x a month, I never bathe my cats, but I comb them, I can proudly say, no fleas! I have sprayed the premises with beneficial Nematodes that get rid of flea larvae, that helps too.
Pet’s that have access to dust-bathing are usually more comfortable.
Fleas don’t live as much around pets that are healthy, so I pay attention to that.
Watch your pet, if it scratches vigorously, it probably just got bit, by something,, Was it the eye?(pollen?) or mouth area? (food allergy?) Ears? (mites?)head (fleas?mosquitoes?) On top on the back?(mosquitoe,flea, or biting/horse fly?) feet/(bee sting, allergy to chemicals?) Butt area? (fleas?) Urine burns in matted dirty coated pets, especially elderly causes discomfort, biting at butt, scooting can mean anal gland problems in dogs. Urine/feces burns and fungal infections cause great discomfort in neglected and/or caged animals. Chewing at toenails indicates toenails need trimming, and or fungus. Bored pets kept in crates may suck their feet and in white dogs their feet may stain from it. Inspect the coat, if you see tiny speckles or squiggly black debris, even if you don’t see a flea, you have fleas. If you have one flea, you have up to hundreds you don’t know about, in various stages of life, hiding in various places in your home and yard. Now our climate is warming, mosquitoes may bite your pet, you can use citronella and neem products, also, there are hundreds of different kinds of mites, little red mites that bother birds may be a cause.
Biting pests come into our lives because squirrels, birds, raccoons, rodents, and other pet’s bring them, they come in on other people’s clothes. Some are attracted to our carbon dioxide, if we breath we probably have blood,,,,If there is a recently diseased furry thing under the bushes, it’s fleas will jump on your pet fast as lightning, seeking it’s new warmth, so keep pet’s away from those, if you can. Inspect your yard before letting Fido run around, and if your out on a nature excursion, might as well bathe your pet right after, be sure to check for ticks again in a couple of days,, they come onboard flat and small and hard to see, but swell up after a day or two of feasting,, Use warm water, and dog ph balanced shampoo. If you pet gets all bit up with mosy’s or fleas, you can try one of many OTC stop-itch formulas, or just boil so oatmeal a lot, let cool to tepid, smear and soak on pet a while. I have even used Calamine lotion, and liquid clay called ‘slip’ which works well,, a bit too dusty for indoors when it dries, but the pet’s itch gets relief . Use a baking soda and water paste on bee stings and horse-fly bites.
Sometimes an itch will be caused by another pet in a fight. Clean it with peroxide, right away, but if it’s already infected, clip the hair around it, get a cup of pretty good and warm water and 2 T Epsom salt’s, dip a corner of a washrag in it and soak the wound as long as you can, gently working the infection out and into the cloth. Dip a clean corner in cup and re-soak, then blot dry,,repeat several times a day til healed. I have had great success using Willard Water to help speed the healing process, and to keep a scab from forming too soon. Once there is no more swelling you can allow the scab to form, but keep the pet from scratching it,,you may need to use (the proper dosage for your pet)baby benadryl, and or an Elizabethan Collar.Products with salicylic acid helps sooth, and I have used my Phisoderm to clean my cat’s infected scratch wounds with great success, too. Since Prevention is worth a pound of cure, keep your eyes open.
Regular house cleaning is a must,, you don’t have to be OCD about it, but consistency works well.
There is lots of info on the ‘net, so learn lots, that’s your best defense.
Unseen teeny mites are everywhere too, some may be on your pets driving them crazy, and even though you do everything you can to get rid of fleas, your pet may still itch. At that point, or even before, try adding 10% Karanja and 10% Neem to your pets shampoo, (try Snowdrift Farms online) soak for 5-10 minutes, rinse, use something like Lavender after bath to hide the smell (garlic-y) I have even used prescription Sulfur, the Karanja Oil helped better. I read soaking your pet for 5 or so minutes in olive oil will kill fleas, too,, what it does to the planet not as bad as some things I guess…
Remember, sometimes an itch will be bothersome for around 3 days afterwards, so don’t go insane,, just know you have done what you needed to, then wait a few days before you panic and try something else,, work with the lightest most natural remedies first, with frequent regular use, before moving onto the heavier chemical stuff. Sometimes Total Knockdown chemicals are required, look into Vet Kem Siphotrol foggers and premise sprays, I have used them in the past with great success, for extremely severe infestations.
Internally, Fish/Flax Omg3 oils help, and d-alpha E, even just a little extra good oil or ghee can help with dry skin itch,,but out of 5 pets I only have one that likes the taste of fish oil,, love that cat, the others I just bite the capsule with my canines, and squirt the contents into their mouth (yuck, mom!)
With food alergies, they sometimes scratch at their face, lowering/changing the protein source helps,, switch it up,,fish, chicken, turkey, beef, duck, bison, venison, try less protein, try different types of well-cooked grains, besides white rice. Try yams/sweet potatoes, peas as source of carbs. Add egg now and then. (Even though Bitta is allergic to chicken, a little cooked egg was ok)
I have used the Barf Diet (Bones and Raw Food/Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) with great success, and, the vet loves how clean my pets teeth are from that. Any cut up chicken parts with bones just boil for 30 seconds and toss on the floor mat for the dog to go carnivore over,, crunch, yum, grrrreat! (just don’t try to take it from them,,finger bones look too similar!)
I hear a bit of garlic for dogs, and I have heard about certain brewer’s yeasts, I don’t bother, but google it, ok?
Make sure to check your pet’s ears for mites, use a bit of witchhazel or 70% isopropil alchohol on cotton ball to clean them regularly.

                           “My dog has the ‘Runs’, should I take him to the groomers?”

Every once in a while, your darling Fur Kid will ingest something awful, and get ‘the runs’,

You can take him to the Vet right away, or, you may try to save money, and treat him yourself.

Many of us will try to self-diagnose, and try to treat Pup with yogurt, or OTC anti-diarrheals

You’re stuck with the decision, to bathe him yourself, or just take him to the groomers?

Maybe just use a towel to clean him up for now, wait a bit and see how it goes.

You watch, and wait. If it continues, you grow alarmed, call the vet, the groomer, “Help!”

Sometimes, God forbid, there is Company Coming (talk about terrible timing!) and you just don’t have time to deal with it yourself.

     If you do get a groomer to take your Pup right away, you will want to tell the groomer the problem. The groomer will want to put Pup directly into the bathtub, and disinfect after. You don’t know what he

 has, and it may be something contagious. Special handling has to be done.

It’s not a good time to ask for a full groom, or even just nails too, because Pup is Sick. In fact, if it’s ok with you and the groomer, it is probably better that just bathing the rear end to clean off the mess is done, and not the whole dog, until Pup is diagnosed at the vet, and well. You don’t want a sick dog to be all wet and shivery, especially if it turns out to be Parvo. And, you could be paying for a full groom, when it’s just going to turn around and mess itself again anyway. So, call the vet, get an appointment right away, then either pop him in the bathtub or take him to the groomer to wash the area with shampoo, then disinfect everything he came in contact with, with recommended disinfectants. It could be something ‘Catching’.

     Remember, if you do decide to take a sick pet anywhere, be sure to put a blanket you can wash, down in the car or carrier first, and an extra towel you take in with you to clean up ‘accident’s’. Also, take a large plastic back for soiled towel and blanket, afterwords.

     Give the prescribed medicines, keep Pup quiet and reasonably clean, give him time to recover, before worrying about how pretty or sweet smelling, or ‘presentable’ he looks.

      Caused by change in diet, eating something infected with Giardia, etc, perhaps something worse like Parvo, diarrhea can be quite debilitating, it can cause dehydration, so the vet will want to give a  stool test (so, if you bathe your dog before taking him to the vet, save some pooh in a ziplock baggy to take with you) and blood tests, IV Fluid Replacement, and other medications.

     In the future, the best thing is to not let your pet drink anything but tap water, out of a clean bowl.

No matter how tiny and pretty, all Dogs are opportunistic scavengers at heart, and if there is something stinky and gross it wants to eat, and you are not looking, it may gulp it down before you can stop him. Try to make sure your pet is healthy, has a strong immune system, so he can ward off most all problems. Start providing ProBiotics, as a preventative, support, and to heal.

Some Helpful Links:





Keep Your Dogs Ears In a Field Clip: See This video, go to 8:15 on the slider, modify it if you like by keeping the hair on the outside of the ear, but definately shave the inside and under the ear/cheek area, and pull excess inner ear hair, to enable ears to 'breathe' to keep healthy and dry.

While I am not an expert, or a vet, or vet technician, I can recognize when a dog is suffering from ear problems, and will tell you. For most Drop-Eared dogs I will do a Field Ear Clip, which will allow maximum air flow to the ear canal to keep it dry. Also, if Yeast,  I will remedy the problem as best I can; I will clean the ear to remove ear wax and extra hair, then treat with a50/50 Raw Vinegar and Water solution because Yeast doesnt grow in Acid Envirnonments. You at home can do this, 1 x a week.   
For the tell-tail sign of black 'coffee grounds'  that is Ear Mites,  I have successfully treated my own dogs and many more with a little bit of Neem oil, and will send some home with you for free to use to clear the problem up. If the ear problem persists after 10-14 days, I reccommend you must go to the vet to have the problem properly diagnosed and learn how to treat the problem. Sometimes the problem is complex and you will need antibiotics, but this is so expensive that we can at least try to cure ourselfs, unless the dog is in severe distress. All ear problems must be tended to and not neglected, because they can do alot of damage to their ears with their back feet/claws, and head shaking can cause tiny bloodle vessles in the ears to break causeing hematomas, and the ear becomes painful and ugly to look at, I mean, how would you like to live with an earache?
Here is an excellent link to find out more, it is very 'user friendly' and easy to read and understand:

Click here to see Wikipedias picture of Ear Mite,,such a tiny thing can cause such distress!!

Click Here To Find Out More About Mites:

There is so much info on the internet, why not google it yourself? Here is another great site which will be very informative to you about ear problems in your pet:

So Much Great Info! Click Here To Find Out More!

So Now You Know! There is Never Any Reason To Let Your Dear Best Friend Spend Any More Precious Time With Nasty Itchy Sore Grose Ears! Please, At Least Do SOMETHING!!!
 and remember,,
A clean (eared) dog is a happy dog, and nice to be with!

Still not convinced you need to deal with this? Check this out,,I saved the 'best' for last! (grab a barf bag!)

Local Pet Groomer, Steffies House, Only Bathes Cats In Safe Products!


Please read the above link, and spend time researching this subject if you have cats

I knew not to use Pinesol or anything with 'sol' in the name to clean my home, because of Phenols, but now I know more about why.

It is something I have just discovered, that cat's livers do not process things like dogs or peoples livers do, and many natural things used safely on dogs are toxic to cats; especially things with Phenols, found in Tea Tree, Lavender, and many many other things that were traditionally used to chase fleas away. They can be absorbed by ingesting/licking, and skin absorption and breathing. I will no longer use any essential oils on my cats. You shouldn't use Pyrethrins, too, lots of stuff!

Being a groomer, I am trying to find effective yet natural flea treatments for the property/pets, and use Lavender, and Cedar, and have Black Walnut on order to use as a spray (1 tlbspoon BW Tincture to 1 cup water, spray around)I thought 'natural' meant 'safe' but apparently it's not so.

I think the topicals work pretty well,

I use Advantage on all my own pets, but this place gets other peoples new fleas in all the time, what with the hot weather, explosion! Poor babies,,but even I am itchy a bit.

I have 3 cats and 2 dogs, have been treating monthly with Advantage, but one of my cats, Bitta, has been licking incessantly (and has since he was young, allergies to probably fleas and many other things,, *I give good quality food though) ,,,funny story about Bitta Honey,,he has been bringing me presents all his young life, big chunks of bark for a long time, even empty cigarette packs, one time a full pack! His teeth marks on the box, prolly stole them off someones porch,, Now lately this summer it has been pine cones,, and there are no pine trees in my yard, there are some trees a block or more away, so he's carrying those spiky things a long way,, he always yowls like he's caught a mouse or something,, anyway, i finally put it together,, bark, from pine, and cones,,At 2 in the morning,,after he's woken me up, again,, I thought,,"both are natural flea deterrents, so is tobacco,, he's ridding his home environment of fleas all by himself!!! I find him sleeping up against those cones, outside, alot,," wow,, what an epiphany!

Anyway, so, he's just miserable so i looked up remedies in some old books, and found i could use Cedar oil on him,, i did, and a bit later, about 4 am, he came up on my belly to to make bread and thank me and purrrrr,, apparently all the fleas jumped off! I felt like Vunder Kind, Doctor DoLittle, Miracle Worker, or something! Wow, this stuff works! I had put about a teaspoon of water with a few drops oil, rubbed my hands together and pet him all over to rub it in his fur,, anyway, then i did it to my other cat, and then the dogs, my bed etc,,

So, now I am thinking he and I have this problem fixed, and I have ordered some Black Walnut Hull Oil to use, too, and am looking into Geranium, etc,, but 2 days later, i'm reading more on the subject, online this time, and ooooopsss

put on the brakes,, screech! Oooooh nooooo!! I keep finding articles on cat's and essential oils...Cedar oil, among many, is poisonous to cats! Egad!!! Here I am all concerned with dogs and fleas, and find that cats have these delicate bodys and I thought they were fine with all this but apparently they are not,, and that symptoms of toxicity may not show up until later,,,

i will also be calling a cat specialist vet, to see what else we need to do to de-tox,, big error big money, but what else can I do?

anyway,, now I know, and now you do too, I will tell folks,

About the pine cones and bark:

so, i think it is safe to have some 'phenols' around, as long as the cats don't eat them,, bty, the sap from the cone is just on one end, I looked,, the cone itself hasn't any on it,,

so, i am going to go now, and wash my cat for the first time, ever, to get the cedar oil i put on him off,, apparently just the act of washing a cat too, will kill the fleas on it,some say 5 minutes, some say 15,, shorter is better with cats prolly,,,, i hate to wash cats, they are all full of spikes and teeth and make horrid noises, and get so.... tense!

Anyway, do some research,, Google,, it works! And, share your findings!

Sometimes Pup just has these little sores and bumps from itching too much,, it may be some sort of Staph infection,,my vet gave me Benasoothe Shampoo and Conditioner (to buy) to use on my Yorkie and my Lhasa Apso, and it worked great! click the link below to find out more about it. It s a prescription product, see your vet.

benasoothe by glenhaven

Update! Regarding the paragraph just below, and the Brewers Yeast and the Neem WitchHazel mixture,,well, they all came down with yeasty infected ears after eating the pills with Brewers yeast for a week or so,,Bently eventually had to go to the vet for ear medicine. And, I got a bit spooked after reading about Neem a bit more, so now use it a lot more judiciously.
Bently was prescribed Bennasooth shampoo from the vet, and I am bathing all three doggies in it every week, and that is working great to keep the itching at bay, that, and also absolutely no beef, chicken, and I have even quit the turkey and cut way back on the duck as well,,maybe poultry is poultry? Well, they are doing very well with Salmon, cod, talapia, and, a tiny bit of ham/bacon now and then. Their newest love is Happy Hips Salmon jerky,,they said they could live on it! They are also ok I found on Bison Bones,,but they get fat from all the marrow, so, just 1 x a week is plenty.

Ok, the definitive answer on itch, per my own experience with my own dogs,,Yorkie Bentley and Lhasa Girl Baby, both itching, scratching, crazy,,even with no chicken and whatnot allergens,,,so, I did 2 things, went to Petco, got some 'Brewers Dried Yeast Formula with Garlic, Healthy Skin & Coat', tablets that I fed for 4 days, double dose, hiding the pills in treats they loved,,that in conjunction with this topical coat treatment: (first I bathed and dried them)
a big (2 heaping Tablespoons or so) blob of pure Neem oil, (thick and stinky and gunky) mixed in a cup with about 1/4 cup Witch Hazel, I slathered this onto the entire dog (both dogs) and rubbed it in. They were smelly and greasy, so I put lots of towels around. They did not scratch since. Voila, problem solved.
Well, they both got a bit of a yeasty ear, so I treated that with vinegar/water solution. And Girlbaby started scratching again a tiny bit, after about 1 1/2 weeks of this treatment. So, I put a little more neem/wh mix on those spots, and she stopped.
This is my miracle cure. Try it, if you have been going crazy like I have, with itchy miserable dogs.
I dont know if it was the pills, or the mixture. I stopped the pills, it has been 2 weeks, no scratching. The gal at petco said i could give them every other day or 3 or so,,but the yeasty ears is a problem for me, so,,anyway, i think they did help some,,
and, if you ask me for some, I have leftovers I can give you, i bought the big jar.

a good video about fleas/stages is on this site, 6th or so video down, called :The Dirt on Fleas: An Educational Video

News!This Just In! SE PDX Groomer Beats The Fleas! (Well, that's my goal, anyway!)

New For Sale At Steffies House Dog Grooming: 4oz.Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth $3. Enough to treat house and self and pets for one month. Waaay Cheaper and Non-Toxic,  and More Effective than anything else! Kills All No-See-Ums, Itchy Makers, Bugaboos, Creepy Crawlys,,Inside and Out, Indoors and Out! Pick your supply up during your next grooming! $1 per Ounce. ($3 oz usually enough)

10/1/11 I now have Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth for sale, for a fraction of what you will find it at your local pet store. I am selling it for $3. for 3 oz. in ziplock baggies, with instructions.
apparently it is ok to injest, and will even kill of some internal parasites, like worms,as a side benifit for treating mites/fleas etc,,,but treating for worms specifically is a bit more and added to the (people or pet) food.
See this website:
Thats where I ordered it from. I am doubling my price, for the bother of putting it together and printing out instructions for it, and it's still waaaay cheeper,,,buy mine as a sample, or for small doses,,and/or buy from them yourselves, if you want more. (or, continue to pick it up at Steffies House Dog Grooming)
I have been using Diatomaceous Earth to stop itching, I think it did help with getting rid of them, and perhaps a few mites or whatever,,my  dogs were really itch the end of this Summer. Clients started coming in with more fleas, too. But still my Girlbaby, and now my Sebastian, are itching,,and, I have even changed their diet,, to a 5-star food (see DogFoodAdvisor.com), that has no chicken, but I have been naughty and allowing them to have 'peoplefood' ie: chicken,,
so,,,,but I think it may be something in the skin.
Now, I have just Googled to find out what these black spots that are more prevelent on my dogs' skin,,found it is called 'hyperpigmentation' and is from excessive licking,,so, then I found this, and it sounds like a real good solution: Borax and 1% Hydrogen Peroxide,,so, see this web page:
I will try this, and report back here in a month or 2.
So, if your dog is yeasty, itchy, fungussy, or something, try it too, and let me know!

Red on the face could mean flea dirt stained tears
Could not tell until wet, this is severe flea infestation. (poor baby!)

This has turned out to be a rough year for us and pets for getting bitten up by those pesky fleas.

I will share with you what I know.

As I was a kid, it was always a joke,, not 'our' problem, more just the dog's problem.
A dog with a Healthy Immune System and not eating Junky Dog Food will generally fair better. The addition of a little Garlic, and, some nice Omega 3 Fatty acids, from Flax Seed/oil, and/or Fish (Cold Water/Alaska Wild Caught Salmon Oil) will help nicely, and Digestive Enzymes, too.

Ticks were a problem for my dog Ringo when we lived in Papua New Guinea. Portland itself may have some, but I have only rarely run across any on any bodys pets here, so I will just talk about fleas. ****see footnote!***

I lost (had to put to sleep) my dear Airdale, Berry, when he was just 4 years old. He had severe allergic reactions to fleas,-just one would send him through the roof! He lived on cortozone for a while, then we just decided to put him under, he just suffered so much. If we had known then what we do now.. (I say we: my parents held the check book back then)

Later, when I was living on my own, with 3 cats, I experienced some horrific years of major infestations: I had carpets back then. Each year I would have to go to WAR to get rid of the fleas, on the pets, and premises.

I currently have a product called Natural Chemistry De Flea, for sale, in my salon, if you want to try something that is safe to spray on the pet and in the house too. See Link at page bottom.

I learned Siphotrol was good, by VetKem an info link is below, Google it to buy, and/or check at your vet's)There are many products that will do well.

***Footnote: wouldn't you know it? just after I wrote this a customer came in with a white dog with 4 ticks on its front shoulder an neck! Well!, make a liar of me! I got them all out no problem, in fact 2 ticks survived, so I experimented on them, Neem directly: nothin,, Lavender oil however, wham! They're gonners, now! Well, keep checking your dog for fleas AND ticks now, ok?? And, go get a $8 bottle of Lavender Essence! ;)

Click Here To Learn More About VetKem's Syphotrol

One thing, about cats and kittens is that they cant process toxins as well as we and dogs can, things like essential oils etc can build up and become toxic to cats, causing severe nerve damage, liver and kidneys damage, and can be fatal.

Click Here for more excellent info!

One way to treat a compromised (elderly, weak) or baby animal for fleas is to put the treatment on a towel and wrap them in it for 5 minutes or so, allowing the fumes to do the work without actually applying spray directly on the animal.

The following is a very helpful exerpt from
http://animalwellnesspei.com/?p=22 (link below article)


Fleas particularly dislike the flavor of garlic and yeast (nutritional or brewer's yeast). Mixing garlic and yeast with your pet's food can render their blood unpalatable to fleas.

For dogs only, just use sliver slice of a clove of garlic daily in peak flea season. And one sliver slice weekly when flea season has died down. As garlic is related to the onion family large doses can cause hemolytic anemia.

Cat owners: Please be aware that raw garlic is known to be toxic to cats. According to Dr. Randy Kidd, the use of garlic, as well as onions, shallots and chives, has been shown to cause damage to feline red blood cells which can result in hemolytic anemia and eventual death. Raw garlic and onions can also cause ulcers and irritation of the mouth, esophagus and stomach.

Use about a teaspoon of brewer’s (or nutritional) yeast daily for cats and small dogs, and a tablespoon for a 50-pound dog. Some animals are yeast intolerant and will react with a skin allergy. Discontinue use if this occurs. Combine the yeast with the garlic in your animal’s food.

Other natural repellents include vitamin B1 (thiamine) and apple cider vinegar. (See your veterinarian for the correct amount of a vitamin B1 supplement for your pet.) The dosage of apple cider vinegar is about one teaspoon daily in the pet drinking water. Apple cider vinegar helps strengthen the immune system.

Combing your cat or dog daily with a flea comb is an important part of flea control. Bathing animals regularly is also advised. There is no need to use chemical flea shampoos. A water bath with a gentle soap that won't irritate their skin is sufficient to eliminate existing fleas.
Set Traps

You can trap fleas by placing a dish of soapy water under a night light near where your pet sleeps. Fleas are attracted to warm light and will easily drown in the soapy water. This works for adult fleas only, but with diligence, can be very effective reducing the flea population. Fleas already residing on your pet aren't likely to leave, so you will still need to flea comb and/or bathe them in a mild shampoo (even a baby shampoo will work as fleas don't survive well in soapy water). If the idea of keeping a soapy water dish near your pet is not attractive, plug-in flea traps are available. These electric traps are equally, if not more, effective.
Sanitize Your Pet's Environment

Fleas lay their eggs everywhere: in carpets, curtains, upholstery, animal bedding, cracks and crevices. Destroying the fleas; eggs by thorough weekly vacuuming and frequent washing of animal bedding goes to the source of the problem and will help eliminate the flea population in your house. After vacuuming, be sure to replace the bag right away and take the old bag out of the house. Keeping clutter on the floor to a minimum also will deprive the fleas of hiding places.


While you can't kill off the fleas that your pet is going to encounter when it goes outside, you can keep the population down in the area around your house by using nematodes. These microscopic worms eat flea larvae and are therefore a natural way to control the flea population.

You can purchase nematodes online, or at pet and garden stores. Place them in moist, shady spots near your house; neither fleas nor nematodes survive in the hot sun. As nematodes multiply rapidly, you have only to introduce a small number to have the desired effect."

To read entire article click here

Buy Nematodes Online here (or, find another if you like!)Steinernema Carpocapse Nematodes--Garden Size Pack--6 Million Steinernema Carpocapse treats up to 3,200 sq.ft. SC10 $29.95 These have to ship fast, so shipping is **spendy**, (add about another $30)

Steinernema Carpocapse Nematodes (SC)

Is most effective against flea larvae and caterpillars in lawns, garden soil, and under trees where larvae pupate. They stay near the surface waiting to ambush surface dwelling pests.
•Target pests include:

Fleas, Dog and cat flea larvae, Codling Moth, Cutworm, Armyworm, Leafminer, Bluegrass billbugs, termites, ants, Sod Webworm, Mole Cricket, some caterpillar pests, Billbug, Flies, ArmyWorms, Loopers, European Crane Fly, Cranberry Girdler and many other surface dwellers.
Well, that's just some of the fantastic information on this subject, Google It!
But my main message is, treat the whole home, not just the pet. Just putting the monthly treatment on the pet may not be enough at first. If your Groomer (me, or any other) says you have a flea problem, then take them seriously.

In addition to delivering annoying, itchy bites, fleas are capable of transmitting infectious diseases either by direct transmission or by acting as a vector for disease producing organisms.

Flea bite dermatitis: Fleas inject a small amount of salivary gland secretion into the skin when they bite to thin the blood. This saliva may cause a rash like reaction in most victims.

Murine typhus: Fleas can transmit murine typhus to humans from rats, and less often mice. The incubation period for this disease is 6 to 14 days. Murine typhus is rare in the United States, most cases are from Texas.

Plague: Rodent fleas are principle vectors in the transmission of bubonic plague between rats or from rats to humans. The incubation period in humans is from 2 to 10 days. A common scenario is that fleas leave an infested rodent just after its death and switch to humans.

Tapeworm: Fleas are common vectors of tapeworms that infest cats, dogs, and humans. The flea infests the tapeworm eggs when it feeds on infested fecal matter. The eggs develop into cysticeroids inside the flea. The flea is then ingested by a human, cat, or dog. The cysticeroid is then liberated and develops into an adult tapeworms in the digestive tract of the new host."
This taken from: (link below)

Learn All About Fleas Click Here

Karanja Oil and Neem

At Steffie's House I have recently been using Karanja Oil, it smells better than Neem, so I use 5% Neem and 10% Karanja in my shampoo to help rid my doggy clients of any fleas ticks and mites. I think it works well, at least for about 1 week or so, but as we all know, those little pesky bugs are prolific, so multiple washings and continued vigilance in vacuuming and laundry a must!

Ok Then! Now you have read and learned all this, it is time to 'gut up' and roll up your sleeves and get to work! WAR!!!
The think I learned was, the eggs can still hatch even after 90 days! egad,, but don't give up! Treat, treat again!
One last note, if you use BT )Bacillus thuringiensis) in the puddles and ponds around your place to get rid of mosquitoes, that is WONDERFUL! But,, it apparently will kill Nematodes that you spray around to kill fleas, so, just dont mix them (I thought they were the same thing for a while,, yea google)
See this article for more info:

Click here for All About BT

Glutton For Punishment? Click Here For Even MORE!! This Is All About Microbial Insecticides!!!

De Flea Link To Natural Chemistry Site

Warning! Cats & Fleas, ETC!!See Steffie's Info On Special Requirements of Cats, an FYI page

See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Death

…”The first North American plague epidemic was the San Francisco plague of 1900–1904, followed by another outbreak in 1907–1908.[99] From 1944 through 1993, 362 cases of human plague were reported in the United States; approximately 90% occurred in four western states: Arizona, California, Colorado, and New Mexico.[100] Plague was confirmed in the United States from 9 western states during 1995.[101] Currently, between 10 and 15 people in the United States are estimated to catch the disease each year, typically in western states.[102]


By ALYSSA NEWCOMB (@alyssanewcomb)

July 19, 2012

Doctors will amputate an Oregon man's fingers and his toes next week, which were ravaged by the black plague, an infection prevalent in medieval times that is rarely seen in the U.S. today.


Paul Gaylord, 59, is recovering at the St. Charles Medical Center in Bend, Ore., after he contracted the plague in early June, said his niece, Andrea Gibb.

"We all thought it was crazy," Gibb said. "Even the doctors thought, 'No way, it can't be.' They did not think at all. It was like turning a page in a book," Gibb said.

Only five to 10 cases of the plague occur each year in the United States, predominantly in the southwestern part of the country, said Sue Straley, a professor at the University of Kentucky College of Medicine and an expert on the plague, making it more "rare" to have a case in the Pacific Northwest.

The infectious disease is carried by fleas and can infect humans and animals, Straley said.

In Gaylord's case, he contracted the disease from his family cat, Charlie, when he tried to remove something bulging from the cat's throat.

Gaylord reached into the animal's mouth to remove the bulge, which turned out to be a rodent, Gibb said.

When he was unable to dislodge the mouse, Charlie "lashed out" at Gaylord, "attacking him," said Gibb.

Gaylord shot Charlie to end the animal's suffering and buried the pet, who had "been a part of the family and was loved" for six years, in his yard, Gibb said.

Two days later, Gaylord awoke with "flu-like symptoms."

Gibb said he visited a doctor, who diagnosed him with cat scratch fever and advised him to return if his symptoms worsened.

A few days later, they did.

"He was pale as a ghost and sweat was dripping off of him," Gibb said.

Gaylord was taken to the the hospital, where his family was told he was "in grave condition" and his organs were beginning to fail.

The cat was dug up from Gaylord's yard and tested positive for the plague, the Crook County Health Department confirmed.

Gaylord spent a month in the intensive care unit at the St. Charles Medical Center in Bend, and is now recovering at the hospital.

Gaylord will no longer be able to continue his work as a welder, but he's very optimistic and knows he is lucky to be alive.

"He is so positive. He's very positive, eating and exercising his hands and fingers, trying to move them. He's just happy to be alive," Gibb said.

The family is hoping to raise money to build Gaylord a new house on his existing property, since his current residence, a single-wide trailer, has a host of problems that could be a threat to his weakened immune system.

"There are rodent droppings on the counter, roof leaks, the ceiling panels are falling off the walls," Gibb said.

Although cases of the plague are rare and they are usually transmitted to humans through a flea bite, Straley, the plague expert, said Gaylord is particularly lucky.

"Given he got sick so quickly, he certainly very lucky he's alive," she said. "It's the timing that I kind of focus on. He probably had a high dose of bacteria that got in at the beginning."

The Black Death that killed 50 million Europeans six centuries ago is the ancestor of "all the modern plagues we have today worldwide," said the scientists who decoded its entire genetic structure from the teeth of long-dead Londoners.

Straley said despite the small number of cases today, there are steps people can take to help prevent contracting the disease.

"In the Southwest, where it is more endemic, if you're going out into the wild, particularly where there are rodents that are known to carry the plague, you ought to tuck your pants in your boots," she said. "It's important to take precautions against a flea bite."

ABC News' Jane Allen contributed to this report.



Is an animal having fleas considered neglect?

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The most common type of animal cruelty is neglect or abandonment - that is, people not providing adequate care for animals in their charge. An animal having fleas could be a symptom of neglect, but this alone does not qualify as neglect or abuse.


Oregon Cruelty to Animals Statutes


133.375. Definitions for ORS 133.375 to 133.381.

As used in ORS 133.375 to 133.381 and 156.705:
(1) "Animal" has the meaning provided in ORS 167.310.
(2) "Owner" or "person" includes corporations as well as individuals.

133.377. Arrest of persons for cruelty to animals; immunity of peace officer providing care for animal.

(1) Any person violating ORS 167.315 to 167.330 and 167.340 may be arrested and held without warrant, in the same manner as in the case of persons found breaking the peace.

(2) The person making the arrest, with or without warrant, shall use reasonable diligence to give notice thereof to the owners of the animals found in the charge of the person arrested, and shall properly care and provide for such animals until the owners or their duly authorized agents take charge of them; provided, such owners or agents shall claim and take charge of the animals within 60 days from the date of said notice.

(3) The person making such arrest shall have a lien upon the animals for the expense of such care and provisions.

(4) Any peace officer who cares or provides for an animal pursuant to this section and any person into whose care an animal is delivered by a peace officer acting under this section shall be immune from civil or criminal liability based upon an allegation that such care was negligently provided.

133.379. Duty of peace officer to arrest and prosecute violators of cruelty to animals laws; disposition of fines.

(1) It shall be the duty of any peace officer to arrest and prosecute any violator of ORS 167.315 to 167.330 and 167.340 for any violation which comes to the knowledge or notice of the officer.

(2) All fines and forfeitures collected for violations of ORS 167.315 to 167.330 and 167.340, except for forfeitures of the animal as provided under ORS 167.350, shall be paid into the county treasury of the county in which it is collected, and placed to the credit of the county school fund.


167.310. Definitions for ORS 167.310 to 167.350.

As used in ORS 167.310 to 167.350:

(1) "Animal" means any nonhuman mammal, bird, reptile, amphibian or fish.

(2) "Good animal husbandry" includes, but is not limited to, the dehorning of cattle, the docking of horses, sheep or swine, and the castration or neutering of livestock, according to accepted practices of veterinary medicine or animal husbandry.

(3) "Livestock" has the meaning provided in ORS 609.010.

(4) "Pet or domestic animal" means any animal that is owned or possessed by a person, other than livestock or poultry.

(5) "Physical injury" has the meaning provided in ORS 161.015.

(6) "Possess" has the meaning provided in ORS 161.015.

(7) "Serious physical injury" has the meaning provided in ORS 161.015.

(8) As used in ORS 167.325 and 167.330, "Minimum care" means care sufficient to preserve the health and well-being of an animal and, except for emergencies or circumstances beyond the reasonable control of the owner, includes, but is not limited to, the following requirements:

(a) Food of sufficient quantity and quality to allow for normal growth or maintenance of body weight.

(b) Open or adequate access to potable water in sufficient quantity to satisfy the animal's needs. Snow or ice is not an adequate water source.

(c) In the case of pet or domestic animals, access to a barn, dog house or other enclosed structure sufficient to protect the animal from wind, rain, snow or sun and which has adequate bedding to protect against cold and dampness.

(d) Veterinary care deemed necessary by a reasonably prudent person to relieve distress from injury, neglect or disease.

(e) Pet or domestic animals shall not be confined to an area without adequate space for exercise necessary for the health of the animal or which does not allow access to a dry place for the animal to rest. The air temperature in a confinement area must be suitable for the animal involved. Confinement areas must be kept reasonably clean and free from excess waste or other contaminants which could affect the animal's health.

167.312. Research and animal interference.

(1) A person commits the crime of research and animal interference if the person knowingly does any of the following:

(a) Releases, steals or otherwise causes the death, injury or loss of any animal at or from an animal research facility, other than death, injury or loss incurred during or as the result of legitimate animal medical research and experimentation.

(b) Damages, vandalizes or steals any property in or on an animal research facility for the purpose of damaging, destroying or delaying animal medical research or experimentation.

(c) Obtains access to an animal research facility by misrepresentation for the purpose of performing acts not authorized by that facility.

(d) Enters an animal research facility to destroy, alter, duplicate or obtain unauthorized possession of records, data, materials, equipment or animals.

(e) Obtains or exerts unauthorized control over records, data, materials, equipment or animals of any animal research facility for the purpose of using, concealing, abandoning or destroying such records, data, materials, equipment or animals.

(f) Possesses or uses equipment or animals that the person reasonably believes have been obtained by theft or deception from an animal research facility or without the authorization of an animal research facility.

(2) For the purposes of this section, "animal research facility" means any facility engaging in legal scientific research or teaching involving the use of animals.

(3) Research and animal interference is a Class C felony.

(4) In addition to any other penalty imposed for violation of this section, a person convicted of such violation is liable:

(a) To the owner of the animal for damages, including the costs of restoring the animal to confinement and to its health condition prior to commission of the acts constituting the violation;

(b) For damages to real and personal property caused by acts constituting the violation; and

(c) For the costs of repeating an experiment, including the replacement of the animals, labor and materials, if acts constituting the violation cause the failure of an experiment.

167.315. Animal abuse in the second degree.

(1) A person commits the crime of animal abuse in the second degree if, except as otherwise authorized by law, the person intentionally, knowingly or recklessly causes physical injury to an animal.

(2) Any practice of good animal husbandry is not a violation of this section.

(3) Animal abuse in the second degree is a Class B misdemeanor.

167.320. Animal abuse in the first degree.

(1) A person commits the crime of animal abuse in the first degree if, except as otherwise authorized by law, the person intentionally, knowingly or recklessly:

(a) Causes serious physical injury to an animal; or

(b) Cruelly causes the death of an animal.

(2) Any practice of good animal husbandry is not a violation of this section.

(3) Animal abuse in the first degree is a Class A misdemeanor.

167.322. Aggravated animal abuse in the first degree.

(1) A person commits the crime of aggravated animal abuse in the first degree if the person:

(a) Maliciously kills an animal; or

(b) Intentionally or knowingly tortures an animal.

(2) Aggravated animal abuse in the first degree is a Class C felony.

(3) As used in this section, "maliciously" means intentionally acting with a depravity of mind and reckless and wanton disregard of life.

167.325. Animal neglect in the second degree.

(1) A person commits the crime of animal neglect in the second degree if, except as otherwise authorized by law, the person intentionally, knowingly, recklessly or with criminal negligence fails to provide minimum care for an animal in such person's custody or control.

(2) Animal neglect in the second degree is a Class B misdemeanor.

167.330. Animal neglect in the first degree.

(1) A person commits the crime of animal neglect in the first degree if, except as otherwise authorized by law, the person intentionally, knowingly, recklessly or with criminal negligence:

(a) Fails to provide minimum care for an animal in such person's custody or control; and

(b) Such failure to provide care results in serious physical injury or death to the animal.

(2) Animal neglect in the first degree is a Class A misdemeanor.

167.335. Exemption from ORS 167.315 to 167.330.

Unless gross negligence can be shown, the provisions of ORS 167.315 to 167.330 shall not apply to:

(1) The treatment of livestock being transported by owner or common carrier;

(2) Animals involved in rodeos or similar exhibitions;

(3) Commercially grown poultry;

(4) Animals subject to good animal husbandry practices;

(5) The killing of livestock according to the provisions of ORS 603.065;

(6) Animals subject to good veterinary practices as described in ORS 686.030;

(7) Lawful fishing, hunting and trapping activities;

(8) Wildlife management practices under color of law; and

(9) Lawful scientific or agricultural research or teaching that involves the use of animals.

167.340. Animal abandonment.

(1) A person commits the crime of animal abandonment if the person intentionally, knowingly, recklessly or with criminal negligence leaves a domesticated animal at a location without providing for the animal's continued care.

(2) It is no defense to the crime defined in subsection (1) of this section that the defendant abandoned the animal at or near an animal shelter, veterinary clinic or other place of shelter if the defendant did not make reasonable arrangements for the care of the animal.

(3) Animal abandonment is a Class C misdemeanor.

167.345. Authority to enter premises; search warrant; notice of impoundment of animal.

(1) If there are exigent circumstances and probable cause to believe that any animal is being impounded or confined without minimum care for more than 24 consecutive hours, without medical cause, a peace officer, as defined in ORS 161.015, may enter the premises where the animal is being held and provide the animal with water, food or emergency on-site first aid treatment. The peace officer shall not be liable for any damages for such entry, unless the damages were caused by the unnecessary actions of the peace officer that were intentional or reckless.

(2) If there is probable cause to believe that any animal is being subjected to treatment in violation of ORS 167.315 to 167.340, a peace officer, after obtaining a search warrant in the manner authorized by law, may enter the premises where the animal is being held, provide food and water and impound such animal. If after reasonable search the owner or person having custody of such animal cannot be found and notified of the impoundment, such notice shall be conspicuously posted on such premises and within 72 hours after the impoundment such notice shall be sent by certified mail to the address, if any, at which the animal was impounded.

(3) A court may order an animal impounded under subsection (2) of this section to be held at any animal care facility in the state. A facility receiving the animal shall provide adequate food and water and may provide veterinary care.

167.347. Forfeiture of animal to animal care agency prior to disposition of criminal charge.

(1) If any animal is impounded pursuant to ORS 167.345 (2) and is being held by a county animal shelter or other animal care agency pending outcome of criminal action charging a violation of ORS 167.310 to 167.340, prior to final disposition of the criminal charge, the county or other animal care agency may file a petition in the criminal action requesting that the court issue an order forfeiting the animal to the county or other animal care agency prior to final disposition of the criminal charge. The petitioner shall serve a true copy of the petition upon the defendant and the district attorney.

(2) Upon receipt of a petition pursuant to subsection (1) of this section, the court shall set a hearing on the petition. The hearing shall be conducted within 14 days of the filing of the petition, or as soon as practicable.

(3)(a) At a hearing conducted pursuant to subsection (2) of this section, the petitioner shall have the burden of establishing probable cause to believe that the animal was subjected to abuse, neglect or abandonment in violation of ORS 167.310 to 167.340. If the court finds that probable cause exists, the court shall order immediate forfeiture of the animal to the petitioner, unless the defendant, within 72 hours of the hearing, posts a security deposit or bond with the court clerk in an amount determined by the court to be sufficient to repay all reasonable costs incurred, and anticipated to be incurred, by the petitioner in caring for the animal from the date of initial impoundment to the date of trial.

(b) Notwithstanding paragraph (a) of this subsection, a court may waive for good cause shown the requirement that the defendant post a security deposit or bond.

(4) If a security deposit or bond has been posted in accordance with subsection (3) of this section, and the trial in the action is continued at a later date, any order of continuance shall require the defendant to post an additional security deposit or bond in an amount determined by the court that shall be sufficient to repay all additional reasonable costs anticipated to be incurred by the petitioner in caring for the animal until the new date of trial.

(5) If a security deposit or bond has been posted in accordance with subsection (4) of this section, the petitioner may draw from that security deposit or bond the actual reasonable costs incurred by the petitioner in caring for the impounded animal from the date of initial impoundment to the date of final disposition of the animal in the criminal action.

(6) The provisions of this section are in addition to, and not in lieu of, the provisions of ORS 167.350.

167.348. Placement of forfeited animal; preference.

If an animal is forfeited according to the provisions of ORS 167.347 or 167.350, in placing the animal with a new owner, the agency to which the animal was forfeited shall give placement preference to any person or persons who had prior contact with the animal, including but not limited to family members and friends of the former owner whom the agency determines are capable of providing necessary, adequate and appropriate levels of care for the animal.

167.350. Forfeiture of rights in mistreated animal; costs; disposition of animal.

(1) In addition to and not in lieu of any other sentence it may impose, a court may require a defendant convicted under ORS 167.315 to 167.330 or 167.340 to forfeit any rights of the defendant in the animal subjected to abuse, neglect or abandonment, and to repay the reasonable costs incurred by any person or agency prior to judgment in caring for each animal subjected to abuse, neglect or abandonment.

(2) When the court orders the defendant's rights in the animal to be forfeited, the court may further order that those rights be given over to an appropriate person or agency demonstrating a willingness to accept and care for the animal or to the county or an appropriate animal care agency for further disposition in accordance with accepted practices for humane treatment of animals. This subsection shall not constitute or authorize any limitation upon the right of the person or agency to whom rights are granted to resell or otherwise make disposition of the animal. A transfer of rights under this subsection constitutes a transfer of ownership.

(3) In addition to and not in lieu of any other sentence it may impose, a court may order the owner or person having custody of an animal to repay the reasonable costs incurred by any person or agency in providing water, food or first aid treatment under ORS 167.345 (1).

(4) A court may order a person convicted under ORS 167.315 to 167.330 or 167.340 to participate in available animal cruelty prevention programs or education programs, or both, or to obtain psychological counseling for treatment of mental health disorders that, in the court's judgment, contributed to the commission of the crime. The person shall bear any costs incurred by the person for participation in counseling or treatment programs under this subsection.

(5) Sections 1 to 18 of this 2001 Act do not apply to the forfeiture of an animal subjected to abuse, neglect or abandonment in violation of ORS 167. 315 to 167.330 or 167.340. Any such animal is subject to forfeiture as provided in subsections (1) to (3) of this section.

167.352. Interfering with assistance, search and rescue or therapy animal.

(1) A person commits the crime of interfering with an assistance, a search and rescue or a therapy animal if the person intentionally or knowingly: (a) Injures or attempts to injure an animal the person knows or reasonably should know is an assistance animal, a search and rescue animal or a therapy animal;

(b) Interferes with an assistance animal while the assistance animal is being used to provide assistance to a physically impaired person; or

(c) Interferes with a search and rescue animal or a therapy animal while the animal is being used for search and rescue or therapy purposes.

(2) As used in this section, "assistance animal" and "physically impaired person" have the meanings given those terms in ORS 346.680.

(3) As used in this section and ORS 30.822:

(a) "Search and rescue animal" means that the animal has been professionally trained for, and is actively used for, search and rescue purposes.

(b) "Therapy animal" means that the animal has been professionally trained for, and is actively used for, therapy purposes.

(4) Interfering with an assistance, a search and rescue or a therapy animal is a Class A misdemeanor.

Amended in 1999, 2001.
Reviewed by AAHS in September------------------------------

        Flea-Related Illness that Affect Your Dog

o   This annoying parasite can pose real dangers
to your dog’s health.

Left untreated, fleas can multiply rapidly and make your dog seriously ill. That’s why it’s important to check your dog for fleas on a regular basis and act quickly to eliminate any outbreaks that occur.

      • Condition: Flea Allergy Dermatitis (FAD)
        Some dogs are severely allergic to flea saliva and can experience extreme discomfort even from a single flea bite. Common FAD symptoms include excessive scratching, licking or biting around the tail, groin, or backside.
        Scabs or bumps may develop on the neck or back. Some dogs will chew or
        rip out their hair or fur until the area is bare. Unchecked, FAD can cause painful sores and bacterial skin infections, or “hotspots” characterized by red, raw and inflamed skin.

Don’t wait. Your vet can diagnose a flea allergy with a simple intradermal
skin test. If your dog tests positive, she may need medication to control the scratching and chewing until you can begin a flea control program or complete pest management system. Severe cases of FAD may require intermittent use of prescription medications during very hot and humid weather when fleas are at their peak.

      • Condition: Flea-Bite Anemia
        Just like a person, your dog relies on a certain number of red blood cells in
        her body to keep her healthy and energetic. And, like you, she can become anemic from too much blood loss. Any dog can develop Flea-Bite Anemia, but some dogs are more susceptible; small dogs and puppies have smaller blood volumes than larger dogs. Elderly and sick dogs can’t manufacture blood cells as quickly as healthy dogs.

A single flea can bite your dog hundreds of times per day. In a short time, even a mild infestation can have serious consequences. Very severe cases can be fatal. If your dog shows symptoms of lethargy, weakness or pale gums, see your vet right away.

Your vet will rid your dog of fleas and provide supportive measures to restore her health. Dogs who are very anemic may receive blood transfusions and intensive care. With quick intervention, most dogs make a full recovery.

      • Condition: Tapeworms
        Fleas can transmit a tapeworm infection to your dog if she ingests a flea containing tapeworm eggs. Inside your dog’s digestive tract, the tapeworm egg matures into an adult tapeworm with a segmented body that can grow to several feet. The tapeworm hooks onto the lining of your dog’s small intestine and absorbs nutrients as they pass through her digestive tract.
        Tapeworms can cause nutritional deficiency, weight loss and debilitation
        for your dog. Symptoms include increased appetite and fatigue; a serious infection may be accompanied by chronic diarrhea or constipation. Examine your dog’s stool if you suspect a problem. Tapeworms will appear as small white “worms” or grains of rice. If you suspect your dog already has tapeworm, see your vet for an evaluation and bring a stool sample for testing.

Your vet can provide you with medication if your dog is diagnosed
with tapeworm.

Flea Prevention is Key

Since fleas are the most common culprit of canine tapeworm, a proactive flea control program is the best way to keep your dog healthy. Follow a complete pest management system to rid your dog, home and yard of fleas. A good rule of thumb is to treat your home and yard first, then your dog. This will minimize her chances of being re-infested.

Fleas don’t discriminate. Dogs of all ages and breeds are susceptible to flea-related illnesses.

Acting quickly to rid your dog of fleas is the best medicine for keeping her healthy. ----------------------------

Dipylidium caninum

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Cucumber tapeworm

Scientific classification














D. caninum

Binomial name

Dipylidium caninum

Dipylidium life cycle

Dipylidium caninum, also called the cucumber tapeworm or the double-pore tapeworm, is a cyclophyllid cestode that infects organisms afflicted with fleas, including canids, felids, and pet-owners, especially children. Adult worms are about 18 inches long. Eggs (or “egg clusters” or “egg balls”) are passed in the host's feces and ingested by fleas, which are in turn ingested by another mammal after the tapeworm larvae partially develop. Examples of fleas that can spread D. caninum include Ctenocephalides canis and Ctenocephalides felis.

As in all members of family Dipylidiidae, proglottids of the adult have genital pores on both sides (hence the name double-pore tapeworm). Each side has a set of male and female reproductive organs. The scolex has a rostellum with four rows of hooks, along with the four suckers that all cyclophyllid cestodes have. In cats, sometimes proglottids are visible hanging out of a cat's anus.

Inside fleas, eggs hatch and form oncosphere larvae that move through the wall of the flea intestine into the body cavity where they become cysticercoid larvae, which are infective to mammal hosts.

In children, infection causes diarrhea and restlessness. As with most tapeworm infections, the drugs of choice are niclosamide or praziquantel. The best way to prevent human infection is to treat infected animals and to kill fleas.

Although, D. Caninum is usually transferred via a flea, Trichodectes canis, the chewing louse of dogs, can also be the intermediate host for the tapeworm.



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Pets and Your Health - Fleas

Fleas Infesting our Pets and Homes

What is a flea?

Fleas are small, wingless insects, flattened from side to side, that infest the hair coats of mammals or plumage of birds. Adult fleas have piercing mouthparts which they insert into the skin of their host to feed on blood. Worldwide there are more than 2,400 species of fleas. Luckily, only a few flea species feed on our dogs and cats with any regularity. This publication is primarily concerned with the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis, which is by far the most common flea species found on both dogs and cats and in our homes. Control methods discussed in this publication are generally effective against any other flea species that may be occasionally found on our pets or in our homes.

Adult male cat fleas are only about 1 /12 to 1 /8 inch long (2 to 3 millimeters); blood-engorged females range up to 1 /5 inch long (4 to 5 millimeters). Newly emerged fleas are very dark brown. Thereafter, their colors are somewhat lighter. Actively reproducing females are light brown to orange.

How do fleas develop?
Fleas develop by complete metamorphosis. Like the butterfly, the life cycle of the flea involves an egg, larva, pupa (cocoon), and adult. The reproductive cycle of the female flea begins 24 to 36 hours after her first blood meal, when she lays her first egg. A female cat flea can lay as many as 40 eggs per day and over 2,000 eggs in her lifetime. Egg numbers vary because the reproductive capacity of the flea is dependent upon environmental and host-related factors, such as the extent of grooming activity by the host, temperature and humidity.

The immature stages. Flea eggs are pearly white, oval and the size of a grain of sand 1 /50 inch ( 0.5 millimeters ). The eggs are not sticky and easily roll off the fur of the host when laid. Flea eggs usually hatch in 1 to 10 days, depending on the temperature and humidity (humidity of 50 percent or less will desiccate eggs and larvae). Newly hatched flea larvae are slender, yellow, segmented, maggot-like and 1 /25 to 1 /12 inch long (1 to 2 millimeters). Larvae are free living and feed on organic debris found in their environment. They also feed on adult flea feces, which is partially digested dried blood. Once the larvae have ingested adult flea feces they become darker in color. Larvae do not like direct light. They move actively, deep among carpet fibers or under organic debris (grass, branches, leaves, or soil), searching for food. The larval stage usually lasts for 5 to 11 days, depending upon the availability of food and the climatic conditions. Temperatures below 65 to 70F prolong larval development. After completing development, the mature larva, which is 1 /6 to 1 /5 inch in length (4 to 5 millimeters), moves to an undisturbed site to produce a silk-like

Newly emerged fleas are attracted to house pets by the warmth of the animals body, movement, changes in light intensity, and exhaled carbon dioxide. Fleas have tremendously powerful back legs, which they use for jumping onto their host. It has been reported that cat fleas can jump as high as 13 inches. When stimulated, the flea will jump toward the source of the stimulus and try to attach to a suitable host. It is these newly emerged fleas that are found in the carpet and most often bite humans before finding their preferred host (dog, cat, ferret, raccoon, opossum). The newly emerged fleas can survive for 1 to 3 weeks without feeding, but as soon as they are on a suitable host they will feed and mate, and females will begin egg production within 24 to 36 hours.

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This page was updated on 23-Jan-2011



This is an extreme example of East West Front Feet. This dog is young, and can walk at a normal Lhasa Apso pace for now, but older dogs with this condition can experience some pain, their gait will be compromised, so I will adjust my walking pace to theirs to make sure they remain comfortable while they walk.

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Stephanie Schulz* 3829 SE Washington St * Portland * Or * 97214

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