fragrance formulas

fragrance formulas

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a fragrance blend can consist of a mixture of essentials oils, synthetic aroma chemicals, or both. the following forumlas are comprised mostly of true essential oils.

in some cases a synthetic substitute is used because:

some essential oils are prohibitively expensive (e.g. rose otto, sandalwood, tuberose, vanilla absolute,etc) -- it's obviously preferable to use the essential oil whenever possible. however, if you're scenting a product (e.g. soap), a small amount of a good fragrance oil, (one that closely resembles the essential oil), may stand up better and have more "throw" than the essential oil, which would require a greater amount, resulting in a very costly [bar].

the natural [animal] oil is no longer available or, if available, is an inhumane product and/or prohibitively expensive (as with musk, ambergris, civet, and castoreum -- natural musk is no longer used because of animal humane reasons. civet and castoreum are still available, but these oils are obtained at the expense of the animal. ambergris is expelled by the sperm whale so obtaining it has no effect on the whale, but it is a rare commodity and therefore expensive.)

the natural oil is [almost] impossible to obtain (as with sweet pea -- the flower is difficult, if not impossible to process)

the scent doesn't occur in nature (as with aldehydes -- which are used in many modern commercial fragrances), or the scent can't be obtained from the plant material (as with fruit odors: pear, mango, strawberry, etc.)

you just like the scent of a particular brand of fragrance oil -- even though i do use vanilla absolute, i also use vanilla fragrance oil in many of my blends both for its economy and i really like the scent of the particular one i use.

a fragrance oil is a combination of aroma chemicals formulated to represent "some chemist's" idea of the so-named fragrance ...which in the case of natural scents, may or may not (usually not) resemble the essential oil.

note: slight variations aside, essential oils are relatively consistent, however, there is no standard among the myriad "brands" of fragrance oils and two different brands using the identical scent name will be completely different from each other.

any "essential oil" blend will vary slightly from person to person depending on the source of the actual oils used. however, any blends [below] that are comprised (wholly or in part) of "fragrance oils", whose individual scents tend to be supplier-dependent, will result in a totally unique blend, based on the scents of the actual oils you're using.

where a (%) is shown in the following formulas, this is the percentage of the absolute or resin diluted in a base of sd (special denatured) ethanol.
note: an alcohol dilution should not be used if the end product is to be oil-based (i.e. oil-based or solid perfume/cologne). jojoba oil, propylene glycol, and di-propylene glycol are other diluants that can be (and are) used ...the resulting dilution would be suitable for either alcohol or oil-based applications.

using a formula: in addition to the formulas listed below, "rainbow meadow" offers a device that allows you to select two or more essential oils and it will display all of the blends [from their database of over 1700 formulas] that contain the combination of selected oils. this is very useful if, say, you want to develop a blend based on the oils you have available.

note: the formulas below, as well as those on the "perfume page", are constantly changing ...i'm always tweaking them to suit my changing needs and perceptions.

when using a formula, (any formula), and you don't like the results, then just discard it. if you do like the results [as is], then great; use it. however most formulas are just starting points. as with any recipe, you'll probably want (and are encouraged) to "adjust" it to make it your own ...based on your preferences and materials.

a note on fragrance blends: a blend smells one way when first made, but will change (read improve) when it's had time to "develop" for at least 24 to 48 hours. for this reason, you should not make a hasty decision as to whether you like or don't like a blend until after it's had time to meld.

making perfume: the first step is the formulation of the fragrance. see "creating a scent" for tips on crafting your own scent or use a blend from the list below [or elsewhere]. once you have your scent, converting it to an alcohol-based, oil-based, or solid perfume is a simple process detailed in "making perfume / cologne".

directly following this list of fragrance formulas are some comments on "hydrosols" (floral waters).

• amber - (23 drops)

this "blend" is dark and sultry. it's great worn by itself ...or nuanced with sandalwood, lavender, rose, or whatever. see the "amber" doc for more about this intoxicating blend.

application(s)
bath
body		•
room

labdanum (aka cistus)

vanilla absolute

• ajan - (23 drops) -- [ click to see this blend developed into a perfume ]

a blend of florals rests in a base of vanilla and sandalwood to create an oriental bouquet.

vanilla (fragrance oil)

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

lavender, french

musk, dark (fragrance oil)

• ariel - (34 drops) -- [ click to see this blend developed into a perfume ]

an exotic blend with a light, slightly-sweet, herbaceous, floral heart and a sensual woody base.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

cedarwood, atlas

musk, light (fragrance oil)

vanilla (fragrance oil)

chamomile, roman

• autumn (variation 1) - (30 drops)

vanilla and spice with a sweet orange heart.

vanilla (fragrance oil)

application(s)
bath
body		•
room		•

• autumn (variation 2) - (32 drops)

an earthier version of autumn - var. 1.

vanilla (fragrance oil)

application(s)
bath		•
body
room

• bergamot cologne - (106 drops)

this is a [unisex] blend of bergamot fixed with patchouli (for depth) and light musk (for sweetness).
note: because of the evanescent character of this blend -- being mostly citrus top note -- it is best blended with an oil carrier, e.g. jojoba, (as opposed to alcohol), because the scent lingers longer on the skin.
* additional note: increase the light musk to 4 drops for a more feminine "perfume".

bergamot (bergaptene free)

application(s)
bath
body		•
room

musk, light (fragrance oil)

(you could use all the same type bergamot, but there are [subtle] differences between the two; the bergaptene-free clear bergamot is a bit sweeter as well as being non-phototoxic; the regular green bergamot is a bit stronger and has more depth of character.)

• carnation - (38 drops)

this blend approximates the aroma of carnations ...and carnation essential oil.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

• citrus flower - (25 drops)

a crisp, bright citrus blend with a hint of floral and a sweet musk drydown.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

musk (fragrance oil)

• citrus grove - (32 drops)

citrus oils fixed in a clary sage base; works well as room scent.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

• citrus nectar - (32 drops)

fresh and lively.

application(s)
bath
body		•
room

• citrus, sweet - (28 drops)

light, sweet, floral fragrance with a sparkling citrus top note.

application(s)
bath
body		•
room

vanilla (fragrance oil)

• cladn - (51 drops)

this is a modification of the "monteverde" blend (which is itself a modification of the "corian" blend), with an added mossy element and sweetened with musk.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

musk, dark (frangrance oil)

musk, light (frangrance oil)

cedarwood, virginia

• clean air - (46 drops)

this synergistic blend with its disinfectant properties works well as a surface spray, but the light clean scent really shines as an air freshener.

lavender, bulgarian

application(s)
bath
body
room		•

• clean kitchen - (34 drops)

this synergistic blend serves as a freshening room spray and natural surface disinfectant.

application(s)
bath
body
room		•

lavender, french

• conifer - (32 drops)

masculine, woodsy/conifer fragrance with a fresh herbal top.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

cedarwood, virginia

• corian - (30 drops) -- [ click to see this blend developed into a perfume ]

coriander, cedarwood, and sandalwood combine to form the essence of this warm, sensual men's fragrance.

cedarwood, atlas

application(s)
bath		•
body
room

lavender, french

• eastern seduction - (113 drops)

this heavy, heady blend is an example of the oriental style fragrance. this example calls for sandalwood, rose, and tuberose fragrance oils in place of the more costly essential oils, making this blend appropriate for scenting soaps and other skin care products ...it works very well in soaps.

sandalwood (fragrance oil)

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

rose (fragrance oil)

tuberose (fragrance oil)

• eau de cologne (variation 1) - (56 drops) -- [ click to see note on eau de cologne ]

this version, a light citrus fragrance, approximates the scent of the original which was created by jean-marie farina in cologne, germany.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

• eau de cologne (variation 2) - (48 drops) -- [ click to see note on eau de cologne ]

this approximates the scent of the "4711" version produced by wilhelm mülhens.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

musk (fragrance oil)

rose (fragrance oil)

• eau de cologne (variation 3) - ( 22 drops) -- [ click to see note on eau de cologne ]

application(s)
bath
body		•
room

• eau de cologne (variation 4) - (24 drops) -- [ click to see note on eau de cologne ]

application(s)
bath
body		•
room

• eros - (30 drops)

rosy, floral heart in a woody base, with a spicy ginger accent.

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

rose (fragrance oil)

• florida water - (24 drops) -- intended for high dilution (1% to 3%)

This approximates the american version, (created in 1808), of the original eau de cologne.

application(s)
bath
body		•
room

lavender, french

• green tangerine - (23 drops)

light and green with a citrus top; works well as a diffuser fragrance.

application(s)
bath
body
room		•

• herbal, sweet - (30 drops)

slightly sweet and grassy with floral top; works well as a diffuser fragrance.

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

lavender, french

• jardin - (21 drops)

the sweet floral fragrance of a flower garden muted in a base of sandalwood and vetiver.

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

rose (fragrance oil)

• kent - (27 drops)

a crisp, slightly-sweet floral with a citrusy topnote. reminiscent of a victorian garden.

lavender, french

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

tuberose (fragrance oil)

• leather - (8 drops)

this combination of essential oils approximates a leather note.

cade (1%) -- (or 1 drop juniper berry)

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

the addition of musk fragrance oil makes a wonderful "leather musk" blend. -- [ click to see this blend developed into a perfume ]

	8 drops	musk (fragrance oil)

with the further addition of lavender, this makes a simple variation of "english lavender".

lavender, bulgarian

• monteverde - (31 drops)

this sensual men's fragrance builds on the "corian" formula to add more depth and character and make it suitable for body application.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

cedarwood, atlas

lavender, french

musk, dark (frangrance oil)

* this is actually 1/3 drop obtained by blending 1 drop spearmint with 2 drops of etoh or jojoba and using 1 drop of that.

• moss, sweet - (28 drops)

this intoxicating chypre blend is very floral and very feminine; works well as a diffuser fragrance.

gardenia (fragrance oil)

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

musk, light (fragrance oil)

lily of the valley (fragrance oil)

rose (fragrance oil)

• musk, leather - (see "leather")

• musk, vanilla - (30 drops)

a musk blend with a hint of vanilla.

musk, light (fragrance oil)

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

vanilla (fragrance oil)

musk, dark (fragrance oil)

• orange rhum - (31 drops)

a spicy men's fragrance with an orange/vanilla heart in a base of bay, modified with notes of ginger and musk.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

vanilla (fragrance oil)

cedarwood, virginia

musk, dark (fragrance oil)

• patchouli splash- (36 drops)

a warm, sweet blend that subtly hints patchouli ...not at all overpowering. works best as a highly diluted splash.

cedarwood, virginia

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

• perudulce - (49 drops)

the exotic scent of balsam peru with patchouli for depth, vanilla and musk for sweetness, and modified with a kiss of strawberry (which isn't distinguishable but adds that certain "je ne sais quois" to the aroma.

balsam peru (33.33%)

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

musk, dark (fragrance oil)

vanilla (fragrance oil)

strawberry (fragrance oil)

* this is actually 1/2 drop obtained by blending 1 drop strawberry fo with 1 drop of etoh or jojoba and using 1 drop of that.

• provence - (29 drops) -- [ click to see this blend developed into a perfume ]

this men's fragrance features a sandalwood base, warmed with lavender, beneath a predominant spicy ginger note.

lavender, bulgarian

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

cedarwood, atlas

• rhómme - (32 drops) -- [ click to see this blend developed into a perfume ]

A heart of jasmine, ylang ylang, and labdanum is modified with a spicy citrus top and tempered in a base of clary sage, bay, and vetiver to form this intoxicating men's fragrance.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

labdanum (aka cistus)

• rose, autumn - (15 drops)

that wonderful blend of rose and sandalwood is enhanced with amber and hints of lavender and jasmine.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

lavender absolute

rose (fragrance oil)

• rose, herbal - (22 drops)

light herbal-rose aroma; works well as a diffuser fragrance.

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

rose (fragrance oil)

• rose, verbena - (34 drops)

warm, woody, rose fragrance with a crisp lemony top.

rose (fragrance oil)

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

• sherwood - (30 drops)

this slightly sweet, woodsy-pine, masculine fragrance has the smell of a forest.

balsam peru (33.33%)

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

cedarwood, atlas

• smoke - (32 drops)

an earthy men's fragrance with a slight herbaceous top note and a rich woody base.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room

cedarwood, atlas

• spice, floral - (34 drops)

spicy with a sweet floral top; works well as a diffuser fragrance.

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

• spice, herbal - (38 drops)

spicy with a floral herbaceous top; works well as a diffuser fragrance.

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

cedarwood, atlas

• straw - (46 drops)

clean, fresh, lemony floral in a base of clary sage.

lavender, bulgarian

application(s)
bath		•
body
room		•

• vanilla, burnt - (28 drops)

dark, smoky, and balsamic with a vanilla heart.

vanilla (fragrance oil)

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

vanilla absolute

balsam peru (33.33%)

cedarwood, virginia

labdanum (aka cistus)

musk, dark (fragrance oil)

• verbena laurel - (33 drops)

bright, spicy fragrance with sharp sweet citrus top and sweet woody undernote.

application(s)
bath		•
body		•
room		•

cedarwood, virginia

chamomile, roman

hydrosols - a hydrosol is flower water, but not all flower waters are hydrosols. a hydrosol is the [scented] water that remains after the essential oil is siphoned off in the distillation process. however, a flower water can be created by adding essential [or fragrance] oil and alcohol to distilled water.

the formula is simple: 8 parts water, 1 part alcohol (note 1), and fragrance. the amount of fragrance depends on personal taste. a suggested starting point is 30-40 drops per cup. with this method you can create a "water" from many essential/fragrance oils and some fragrance blends ...not all scents lend themselves to this process. below are the [suggested] oil quantities for some common "floral waters" ...based on a 2-ounce quantity.

to make 2 ounces of flower water, mix 1/4 cup distilled water with 8 ml. 100-proof vodka and blend thoroughly. select (or blend) desired fragrance; add it to water mixture and agitate to mix. agitation may entail stirring, swirling, or inverting. shaking too vigorously will cause your mixture to cloud. let sit in a cool dark place for 1 to 2 weeks, agitating once a day to re-mix. the oil will never dissolve (note 2), but the water will acquire the fragrance.

finally, you can either siphon off the oil -- (if you do siphon off the oil, you might consider starting with more fragrance so the amount of scent retained by the water is adequate ...as your personal tastes dictates), or if you choose to leave it in, shake well before each use -- (this will cloud the mixture and should be stored in an opaque or darkly colored bottle). the latter option will retain the most fragrance.

although not considered a flower water, another option for dissolving your oils in water is to use polysorbate 20 in an amount equal to the oil. this, however, creates a mixture that ranges from cloudy to opaque (depending on the amount of oil). if you wish a clear blend, mix the oil/poly20 mixture in 100-proof vodka (50% alcohol) or an alcohol-based perfumer's blend. (if using a perfumer's blend that's mostly alcohol, you don't need the poly20 unless you're adding additional water.) this approach is good for turning any blend into a room or body spray.


	florida water (note 3)		4 drops bergamot
			3 drops lavender, french
			1 drop clove

	lavender water		8 drops lavender (french or bulgarian)

	orange flower water		6 drops bergamot
			4 drops orange, sweet

	summer flower water		2 parts rose water
			1 part orange flower water

	rose water		5 drops rose (fragrance oil)

1 if using 100 proof vodka, adjust proportions to allow for the 50% alcohol.

2 some commercial (non-hydrosol) flower waters contain additives which keeps the oil in solution.

3 this approximates the american version (created in 1808) of the original eau de cologne.

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