Silver Saddle 4-H
Weekly Tips Achives Page 2
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Added 2-26-2006
How to Pull a Loose Shoe
You never know when you're going to need to pull one of your horse's shoes. Here's how to do it correctly.

What You'll Need

  1. Gloves to protect your hands (optional).
  2. Either a low-slung hoof boot, or materials to make a hoof slipper (see right). These will protect the hoof from chipping.
  3. Clinch cutters; hammer and show pullers.

How To Do It


Step 1. Straighten the nail ends so they'll pull through the hoof without damaging it. Place the narrow, tomahawk-like blade of the clinch cutter against the bend in the clinches. Bend them open, or straight, by tapping on the cutter with the hammer. Or, cut clinches off as shown.


Step 2. Pick up your horse's hoof. If you can get a grip on them, pull the nail heads out with the shoe pullers. Odds are, though, that you'll be able to get some of the nails, but not all of them. That's okay'get the ones you can. (Be sure to discard the nails in a safe place, where they won't be stepped on.)


Step 3. Loosen the shoe heels by slipping the shoe puller's jaws between the shoe and the buttress of the hoof's heel. Push the tool's handle inward, toward the center of the sole. (It's important that you resist the urge to pry outward'this could rip off a substantial chunk of the hoof wall.)


Step 4. After you've loosened both heels, pry the shoe's toe loose in the same manner, by pulling the handle of the shoe pullers inward, toward the center of the sole.


Step 5. Repeat this motion wherever the shoe is still nailed, until it comes off.
If any nails remain in the hoof wall, pull them out with the shoe pullers.


Step 6. Remove the shoe.

Step 7. Apply the hoof boot, or make a hoof slipper: Center the padding over the sole, bringing the edges up around the hoof wall. Secure it there with the elastic bandage; cover the bandage with strips of duct tape to keep the hoof edges from wearing through.

Step 8. Confine your horse and schedule a farrier visit today

Added 2-12-2006
Showmanship - Test of Straight Lines and Details
Top your showmanship classes with these pattern tips from judge Jim Becker. From Horse & Rider magazine.

Showmanship Pattern:

  1. Enter arena and walk to marker 1.
  2. Stop. Turn and jog diagonally across the arena, and set up with the rest of the class.
  3. When called, walk halfway to the judge.
  4. Stop, and do a 360° turn.
  5. Jog to the judge, and set up for inspection.
  6. When the judge has finished, back your horse into the lineup.

Showmanship Challenge: Showmanship is all about straight lines and details, and this pattern tests both.

Showmanship Strategy: You'll need to stay on your toes, because I may ask for a few things you don't expect. Good preparation is the key: If you're well prepared, you'll be able to perform any pattern and respond to any request, all while projecting a positive attitude.

  • When you enter the arena, I may walk alongside you for 10 feet or so. This generally surprises exhibitors, hyping them up for the class-but don't let it rattle you. Your attitude throughout should be, "Look me over, but don't overlook me."

  • After you've jogged to the ring steward and set up along the rail, stay focused on me while you wait for my signal. When it's your turn, walk halfway to me. I'll be watching to be sure your horse is straight, and that you're positioned at his throatlatch, with your body facing me. (Tip: If you're forward of your horse's throatlatch, you're pulling him. If you're behind it, he's pulling you. I'll mark you down for either leading error.)

  • Stop straight, and begin your 360-degree turn without looking back at your horse. Rules of the American Quarter Horse Association currently give preference to a right-hind pivot, but in other competition, I'm happy to see a good pivot on the left hind.

  • When you finish the turn, jog to me without hesitation, and set up your horse for inspection. I'll be checking details—your horse's halter fit, his bridle-path's trim, even how well you've groomed his dock; you'll lose points if he's not spotless.

  • If you keep your horse straight in the long back-up to the line, you'll impress me for having done your homework.

At the end of the class, I'll call the top six entries out to line up head to tail, facing the gate. You should be prepared to do this immediately. Then I'll ask each of the six to tell me his or her number; those who can't will move to the back of the line. Knowing your number is a mark of professional courtesy in showing?especially if you expect to receive a prize.

This article first appeared in the July, 1997 issue of Horse & Rider magazine

Added 6-27-05
Horse Grooming Tips for Show Day
Take a moment to brush up on your grooming techniques with tips from the pros to make your horse shine on show day.

Show-day shine starts at home, not at the show. Use these pros' grooming tips to give your horse the competitive edge.
Photo by Darrell Dodds

In the May 2005 issue of Horse & Rider magazine, we gave you an all-inclusive show-day checklist to help you get organized and ward off those pre-show jitters (order back issues here). We included a comprehensive list of grooming supplies you'll need to keep your horse looking his best on show day. Now that you have all your grooming tools, follow these tips from the pros to make your horse shine in the show ring:

Related Resources
  • Preparing for Show Season
  • Mane Banding for Shows
  • Grooming Tips from the Pros
  • Mane and Tail
    On the morning of your show, apply Mane 'n Tail shampoo and conditioner to your horse's mane and tail. After his mane and tail are wet, use a comb, rather than a brush, to prevent hair breakage. Then braid his tail and put it in a tube sock to keep it clean. Right before your class, apply a spray-on coat conditioner for extra shine and brush his tail vigorously.
    Matt Mills, Matt Mills Reining Horses, Scottsdale, Ariz.

    Face and Ears
    The day before your show, clip your horse's nose, eyes, ears, chin and bridle path. On show day, check and trim any stray hairs and thoroughly bathe him. (Enhance your horse's light or white coat and/or markings with a product like Quic Silver shampoo.) Then wipe baby oil over his ear, nose and eye areas to add shine. Just before entering the arena, run a clean rag over his face to remove any dirt or sweat.
    Andrea Fappani, Fappani Performance Horses, Temecula, Calif.

    Hair Coat
    A beautiful coat starts at home, not at a show. Excellent nutrition and regular deworming make for a healthy coat. After every workout, bathe him with Healing Tree Private Reserve Tea Tree shampoo, then apply a leave-on rinse: 2 tablespoons each of Healing Tree Private Reserve Tea Tree conditioner and Vetrolin liniment mixed into a half-gallon bucket of warm water. At shows, repeat this process, adding a silicone-based finishing product, such as Cowboy Magic Detangler & Shine for extra shine.
    Mary Jane Brown, Diamond B Training, Newberg, Ore.

    Feet and Legs
    One week before a show, bathe your horse with an equine shampoo. Then clip his legs--this lead time will allow any clipper irritation to heal. On the morning of your show, use a sanding block on each hoof to create an even surface. Then use black SuperShine Hoof Polish, even on light hooves--it really makes white markings stand out. After the polish dries, apply Hoof Polish Enhancer, a clear lacquer that seals the color. Rusty Green, Rusty Green Quarter Horses, Richmond, Ind.

    White Markings
    A week before showing, wash your horse's white legs and large white markings with Pro Steps Brilliance shampoo. Three days before a show, clip the white markings on his legs and face as close to the skin as possible. One day before a show, bathe him; the morning of a show, bathe him again to ensure he's perfectly clean. While he's still damp, apply Pro Stepps finishing spray on his legs and body. (Avoid applying this product to your horse's face--it could irritate his eyes.) Wait until he's completely dry and then apply baby powder--the kind with cornstarch--on his legs to enhance whiteness. Apply polo wraps from his knees to his coronet bands and don't remove them until you reach the in-gate.
    Mike Hachtel, Esouela Ranch

    Added 4-11-05

    Lead-Horse Trail Etiquette
    If you're the leader on the trail, here are a few do's and don'ts to help make your ride safe and pleasant, from North American Trail Ride Conference judge Jim Ferris.

    Related Resources
  • Beating the Spook on the Trail
  • Horses Who Fight for the Lead on the Trail
  • Trail Riding Troubles
  •  
    The Equine Collection
  • Have Saddle, Will Travel: Low-Impact Trail Riding and Horse Camping
  • A trail ride with a few barn buddies should be enjoyable. And even a small group on a casual outing will benefit from established guidelines and a sensible trail leader. If you're that leader, here are a few do's and don'ts to help make your ride safe and pleasant, from North American Trail Ride Conference judge Jim Ferris.

    • Don't assume every rider--or horse--in the group is comfortable with changes of gait. Before you head out, determine which gait is acceptable to everyone on the ride. And once you initiate a gait change, continuously check (by sight and voice) that everyone is doing okay. If the pace is too fast for anyone, slow down.
    • Do establish a method for downward transitions. Horses can pile into each other during unannounced slowing or stops--just like a cartoon, but not so funny when it happens in real life. Use a hand signal or your voice to convey your intentions to the rider behind you. That rider should, in turn, relay the message to the rider behind him or her, and so forth. When the last rider gets the signal, she slows first, then the second-to-last rider, and on through the group. As leader, you'll slow last.
    • Don't lope or gallop in a group on the trail. Fast gaits tend to "hype up" horses, which, in turn, can cause serious problems that even an experienced rider may find difficult or dangerous. All it takes is for one horse to act up at a fast pace, and the whole group can get out of hand.
    • Do look for changes in the trail and terrain. Increase following distances when traveling down a heavily wooded trail, so branches swept aside by one rider don't hit the next horse and rider. Keep to a safe pace over tricky footing and on difficult trails.
    • Do keep a sharp eye for upcoming obstacles, and warn others. If you must duck to avoid low branches, warn the other riders to be ready to duck, too. If you spot a hoof-sized hole in the trail, make sure the other riders see it, too. Just as your horse will be more vigilant in the lead, it's your job to scan for any hazards and warn the group.
    • Do trade positions within the group. Each member of the group will benefit from taking the positions of lead horse, middle horse and last horse in turn. (For tips on getting a reluctant horse to lead a group, see "Horseman's Handbook," Horse & Rider, October 2001.)
    • Don't allow slow-moving horses to fall too far behind the group. If they do, they may become anxious, and even resort to rearing or bucking. Moreover, it's not wise for riders of slow movers to make a practice of trotting up behind the group to catch up. This can startle or stir up the other horses in the group. Best to keep the group at a pace that's comfortable for everyone.
    Jim Ferris, an Australian native, currently makes his home in Morgan Hill, Calif., with his six Arabians. A 20-year veteran of NATRC events, he serves on the association's national board of directors, and holds a NATRC horsemanship judges card.

    This article first appeared in the October 2001 issue of Horse & Rider magazine.

    Added 4-5-05
    Bridle-Fit Tips

    © Cappy Jackson

    When your horse's bridle is properly adjusted, he'll be comfortable, and he'll have the polished, "custom tailored" look that projects a winning image in the show ring.
      1. Adjust the bridle's cheekpieces so that the bit just creases the corners of your horse's mouth, forming one wrinkle on each side, as shown.

      2. For a polished appearance, the cheekpiece buckles should lie next to the prominent bone at the eye, and be even on both sides. If the buckles on your bridle don't lie there when properly adjusted, a saddle-repair shop can alter the bridle for you.

      3. When you buckle the throatlatch, leave enough slack to fit your fist beneath the strap. That's snug enough to keep the bridle from being accidentally pulled off, but not so tight that the strap interferes with your horse's ability to flex at the poll.

      4. Adjust the cavesson so the noseband rests about one finger-width below your horse's cheekbones. Buckle the noseband such that you can slide two fingers comfortably beneath it.

      5. The browband should rest in the natural hollow below your horse's ears, and lie flush and straight across his forehead.
      Chris George
    Chris George and her husband, Shane, train out of their facility, Show Sports farm, in Magnolia, Texas. Shane has shown to national success in USA Equestrian competition, and is a multiple American Quarter Horse Association world champion in hunter events.

    Adapted from an article that appeared in Horse & Rider.

    added 3-28-05
    Care, Conditioning of Light-Colored Show Saddles
    You've got a trendy new light-colored saddle. So how do you keep it in show shape? Cherryl Sergeant of Sergeant's Western Wear offers these care and conditioning tips.

    Blonde is the trend in the Western pleasure show ring today--and not just on the riders. It's the most popular color in show saddles, and it takes special care to maintain the appearance and condition of that light-colored tack.

    Remember, any type of cleaning or conditioning will slightly darken your light-colored saddle. You should only condition your show saddle once or twice a year at the most; any more will hasten the darkening process.

    Cherryl Sergeant of Sergeant's Western World offers these tips on cleaning and conditioning your saddle:

    Related Resources
  • Stop Saddle Squeak
  • Shine Your Saddle Silver
  • Quick Steps to Cleaner Tack
  •  
    The Equine Collection
  • The Art of the Western Saddle
  • Supplies you'll need: Angelus Luster Crème, saddle soap, R.M. Williams Saddle Dressing, a soft bristle boot brush, tack sponges.

    Step 1: Use an air compressor to remove dust and grime from the tooling, seat and silver. If you don't have access to an air compressor, use a hand-held vacuum cleaner to remove as much of the loose dust as possible. A soft shoe brush is also helpful to get rid of all loose debris.

    Step 2: Condition the light leather by using a small amount of luster crème in a small area and buffing it to a shine with a soft clean boot brush. Continue this process until the entire saddle is cleaned.

    Step 3: Brush the saddle's suede seat with a suede brush. Some stains on the seat can be lightened by sanding them off. But if you do sand the seat, be gentle; you don't want to ruin the suede nap. If your saddle has a light-colored seat, it will eventually discolor, no matter how well you take care of it.

    Step 4: Using tack sponges, apply saddle soap to clean the latigo, and R.M. Williams Saddle Dressing behind the fenders and on the tops of your fenders (under the rigging) to keep them supple. Do not get any of these products on your light saddle leather--anything other than luster crème will automatically darken your leather!


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