RUSSCO

CUE-MASTER

Here I will go threw how to restore a RUSSCO CUE MASTER.
First you remove everything from the base. In most cases the paint is in bad shape, so it needs a new coat.
The color can be any shade of blue, because RUSSCO did have quite a few. Also there was the black one.
It all depends on what the color is on the unit you have, and your taste.
Also you can patch any odd holes that have been made over the years for custom switches etc.

Here is some more information on the Cue Master.

CueMaster Manual pdf.

CueMaster wiring

So the base is now back from the "painter".
It can be spray painted in you back yard or if you know a commercial place that you can ask "if they could put your unit in a batch they are going to paint blue next time....."
Setup fees are kind of high for one plate, so some times they might do it for you for $10.00 Dollars or so.
Next step.
Installing the three rubber mounts. In all cases these mounts have deteriorated because of age. The two front ones are the same and carry all the weight of the motor assembly. The back one is there for "moral" support. If you look at the mounts in profile, you will see that they are longer on one side of the base. The longer side goes down. They get mounted with two each of 6-34 1/2 long screws.
The tone arm hole is the original one that I did not patch. The base mount of the MICRO TRACK tone arm will cover it up.
The mounting holes where in the wrong place, so I covered them.

The power switch is from
SWITCHCRAFT model
LEV-R® SWITCH SERIES 3001L
It is a special order only.
So you have to look around
for a different model and
modify it. Luckily they
are easy to "re-build".
Shown in On position

Pilot lights.
The original one used the most in the beginning has the flat lens. Later it came with the dome top. The flat one is still available if you look hard, that is my favorite. Top picture also shows the retaining clip.


The top of the picture is the front	A bottom view of the pilot light mounted. I did ad heat shrink to the connecting points, even do it was never standard.	Platter baring with the height adjustment screw and lock nut.

Some shafts came with captured ball baring	Some are just flat steel.	This is the proper height adjustment for the platter


The old platter as I received it. Most of the time it is is in bad shape, or has been re-clued a couple of times. To clean of the old felt and glue of you can use paint thinner, or I found Acetone worked great.	If it has to many nicks in it use some fine emery cloth, and then buff it to the shine you want.	The felt is regular felt, like the type used on card tables and pool tables. Since you need a small amount 14 by 14 inch (35 cm) you can by it in a craft store (Don't bring you kids) Next cut a hole for the center puck Use a good contact cement,( the yellow stuff!) like DAP Weldwood. Apply it to both the platter and felt, and then let dry for about 10 min at room temperature.

The cutter I used I made from aluminum, but you can use a piece of wood, specially if you are going to use it once or twice. Use a single edge blade and put it at a 45 degree angle. The two holes are for the inside hole and outside hole.	First you cut the outside, and pull of the cutaway. Since the cement has not dried completely yet, it comes of real easy. Any residue of cement you can just rub of.	The inside cut. If you put on the cement to thick on some places of the felt, and it "soak" threw, don't worry, it will dry up and there won't be any marks left.

When you take the shifter apart and any moving parts, make sure you clean them well. All the old grease needs to come of.


The older type of idler arm. The arm is mounted into the shift mechanism it self. secure the arm with two (2) push on retaining rings.	The newer type of idler arm uses a clip on retaining ring for the idler wheel.	The older one uses the same push on retaining rings as the other end of the arm assembly.

The complete assembly in place. Note that when you put the idler wheel in, that it goes on the left side of the motor shaft. Also important that you put the gear in "neutral" when you put the platter back on.

Close-up of the gear shifter plate with the speed adjustment screws. Not really! what you adjust is the pressure of the idler wheel against the motor shaft. Adjust it so the shifter won't bounce when you start it. But it must have enough pressure so it wont slip when you start the motor.

Time to drill the hole for the tone arm. If you use a
Micro Track Model 303 12" Professional Tone Arm or a RUSSCO RTA-12 Tone Arm, then the mount should be 8 1/4 ", 209.5 mm, from the center of the platter.

The center mounting hole is the original from the previous owner.
I filled the original 3 screw holes because they where wrong. Here you you see the new holes I drilled. They fall in the proper place.

The tone arm holder mount.

Adjusting the tracking force. This one is set for 3 gram. There are some brass pieces under the cartridge head that you can add or remove to adjust to proper force, or you can adjust the the rear counter weight, loosen with a 1/16" hex key.

Done !
If you need more information or would like other detailed pictures, let me know and I will post them on this web page.
Good luck with your project!