Trip Report:
Two Weeks in South Africa, January 1999
Richard's Version
Day 14
Thursday, 1/22-
Going into the bathroom to shower this morning we had something of a surprise. Sitting on the back of the toilet was a very large, very hairy spider- tarantula sized at least. I am NOT a big fan of spiders. Irrational fear, childhood trauma, call it what you will, but I don't like them! We showered while constantly peeking out to see if it was moving, and got out as quickly as we could. We HAD to get rid of it though, as the toilet was needed. I opened the door to the cabin and warned Alison to stand clear and I used a towel to flip the spider toward the door. Of course, my aim wasn't great, and Alison's idea of 'clear' wasn't either, and the spider flew across the room directly at her, landing on the bed just in front of her. The scream probably woke the neighbors. The spider was none to happy either, and quickly disappeared under the bed. If this hadn't been our last day here, I don't think I would have been able to sleep. Anyway, the bathroom was freed, and we kept our eyes on the floor until we got out.
We still had not visited Knysna, which is the self proclaimed heart of the Garden Route. We figured we had to stop there for at least a little while, and besides, we had shopping to do (everyone still needed presents). We packed up the car, paid our whopping motel bill (270 Rands a night for 3 nights) and headed for Knysna first thing.
There were certainly enough shops in Knysna to keep us busy for awhile, but we burned out very quickly. Partly because we weren't getting things for ourselves, partly the heat, and partly because we were starting to flag from all the vacationing. We did like one shop, "Metamorphosis," where everything was made out of recycled trash. Great little animal sculptures from tincans and wire and some nice lampshades made of old bottles. We did manage to get gifties for everyone, and after we had lunch (at a nice deli called the ???) we got into our (thankfully airconditioned) car and got on our way. As we were getting close to Wilderness though, I pointed out that we hadn't gone swimming in the Indian ocean yet. Alison wasn't interested, due to a little jellyfish fear, but I really wanted to (couldn't come home and say I hadn't now, could I?). So we stopped at the beach and I changed and went to romp in the waves for awhile. The water was so wonderfully warm!!! Growing up in Northern California, beaches are just not that attractive, but here they are great!!! (Not that Santa Monica beaches are bad or anything). I also managed to get myself a bit toasted on the top of my head, but how could I show my face if I went on vacation and didn't come home with a sunburn?
When we returned to the car, we found that it was being washed by a couple of men, obviously hoping for a few Rands for the work. The car had been filthy after all the dirt roads we had driven on, and I had been planning on getting it washed anyway, so I was more than happy to pay them. People were probably giving him only pocket change, but all we had was a 50, so I traded him all his change (about 20 Rands) for the 50. He was stunned for a bit, then came over and thanked us effusively (all the time calling me 'master' which was a bit disturbing) and saying that the reason he was washing cars is that his wife had died and he needed to pay for the funeral. I was happy to have been able to have helped, though I felt somewhat foolish in the role of the rich tourist.
The drive back to Swellendam was uneventful. Crusing into town we stopped at the one little antique shop (actually someone's home in which everything was for sale. We had to excuse ourselves as we passed between the family and the TV in the livingroom!). I did get a nice salt-glazed bottle though (for all of 18 Rands). The dogs at the Pond were thrilled to see us again (rolling over so we could scratch their tummies!). Zita was very welcoming, but also apologetic. She said someone had come wanting to stay a week, and she couldn't turn them down for us, staying only this one night. She had taken the liberty of getting us another place a few blocks away though . She promised that it was very nice, and led us over to it.
The B&B, 49 Buitekant Street was again an apartment (quite large) behind a house. This house actually had two apartments behind it, the other occupied by a nice couple from New York. We were greeted by Dario, the husband of the house who was obviously out doing some gardening when we arrived. He showed us the place quickly and told us that his wife was the one that really ran the B&B operation, and that she would be back in an hour or so, and he left. Our apartment had two double beds, a large sitting and dining area (with some scary 70's rattan and glass furniture) and even a fireplace. Quite nice. At least one of the owners is apparently Swiss/Italian, and there are lots of little Lugano banners up by the fireplace. Out in the yard is a decent pool, and two aviaries. We were treated to birdsong (and parrot squawking through the afternoon).
We relaxed for awhile (I was pretty whipped from the drive) and had a cup of coffee. I had to put a damp cloth on my head because I was suddenly becoming aware of a fine sunburn! I guess I was out on the beach longer than I had thought! I guess not wearing a hat while shopping in Knysna didn't help either. If you go to South Africa, wear your hat and sunscreen!
After refreshments and rest our hostess arrived (she had been working at the tourist info center). She chatted a bit and gave us a reccommendation for dinner (we weren't up to steaks which was the first suggestion). We decided to try a new restaurant '22 Baker St.'(?). When we arrived the place looked closed, but the door was unlocked, inside a young guy asked us what we wanted, 'dinner' being the obvious answer. He said they didn't open until six (it was then 6:15), and he told us to come back at 7pm maybe. Not the most helpful guy.
As we were standing on the porch deciding if it would be steaks after all (we were starving), a car pulled up and a woman asked if she could help us with anything. We said we had just been tossed out, and she said 'we're open now' and led us back in. She is apparently the owner/cook and she gave the guy a chewing out for sending us away. The place really seemed to have a whole family impressed into labor to make the restaurant work. We split an enormous and very good Greek salad (with pickles in it?), and Alison ordered salmon and I ordered chicken kebabs. The food was well worth the considerable wait. It was seasoned very nicely, and served with vegetables (some sort of shredded green beans that were seasoned), small garlicky roasted potatoes (VERY yummy), and pumpkin fritters soaked in maple syrup (so good we almost passed on desert). We each had a glass of a nice riesling with our dinner, and split some very alcoholic black cherries and ice cream for desert. The meal was another culinary high point of the trip!
On the way back to the B&B we could see billows of smoke rising into the sky, and as we turned down our street we could see the whole hillside on fire. The brushfire was about 2 blocks from our B&B, but the wind was blowing pretty hard (luckily not straight towards us!). Back at the B&B Dario was running out of the house to go and check on it (he said he owned some houses on that hill).
Luckily the fire remained under control and was out by morning. We spent the evening sitting out on the lawn looking at the millions of stars overhead. First thing we saw was Orion of course, but he was standing on his head! We didn't really know what to look for in the way of Southern Hemisphere constellations, but the sky was so beautiful we stayed out for a long time. Alison finally got to see her first satellite crossing the sky (and 2nd and 3rd). Before bed we packed our bags for the trip home so we would be ready to leave early. This was our last night in South Africa (Sob!).
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Last Updated 16 April, 1999
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