A Wonderful Week on Maui (6)
Thursday, October 14th-
For some unexplained reason (OK, maybe it was the previous night's mai tais) we slept in fairly late this morning, so we didn't get our traditional sunrise. It felt good though!
Despite our general aversion to attractions that are specifically for tourists, we found ourselves drawn to the "Tropical Plantation" that we had passed on our way home from the I`ao valley. The nature of the place was immediately obvious, because the entrance was through the shop, which was the size of a good sized supermarket, filled with everything from macadamia nuts to aloha prints. Yes, we did buy some macadamia nuts for our friends back home.
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| Tropical Plantation |
Beyond the store there are some very nice tropical gardens, and I got give my new macro lens (my first purchase through eBay) a good workout (Lots of pictures HERE). Of course the majority of the flowers were types that we see every day since we live in Los Angeles, but they seemed lusher here. We finally saw a few geckos, much touted but absent until now. There was a huge fish pond and swarms (the word seemed more fitting in this case than 'flocks') of ducks that tried to mug us when we walked too close to the fish food dispenser. There were also some great views of the mountains.
We decided to skip the informative (and pricey) tram ride through the plantations themselves, though we did sit in for the demonstrations of how to make a tropical fruit salad (we can now make a little outrigger canoe out of a pineapple, just ask us!), along with gulping down the free samples.
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| I`ao Theater |
Since we had only passed through Wailuku quickly on Tuesday, we decided to stop there again to see the 'historic district.' While this district was historic (with a really beautiful old theater), it was also pretty much empty. There was an antique store and a couple of thrift stores, but nothing particularly interesting. There was a used book store that was pretty reasonable though (but we had all the books we needed). We walked down to the market to see if we could get something for lunch, and it became clear just how much of a difference there is between the tourist side of the island and this one. The market had the most 'interesting' smells, and flies hovered (and landed) over the Spam musubi (That is something I'll never understand- fried Spam sushi!! Who came up with such a frightening combination!). We decided that we'd rather risk the McDonald's up the street.
Even a super sized Coke couldn't revive us, so we headed into Kahului to find some coffee and ended up a Borders. Coffee and a treat picked us up enough that we were ready to face Haleakala, where we wanted to be for sunset. As we drove up, it wasn't clear (literally) whether we would see the sunset, as we kept driving through drizzle and fog. Even after we arrived at the park headquarters it was cold and wet, so we changed into sweaters and jackets before heading to the top. We were hoping to see Nene, the flightless goose that is the state bird and a wonderful example of evolution. However, none were to be seen.
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| Haleakala Crater |
By the time we reached the sliding sands trail (just below the summit) it was bright and sunny and fairly warm. The views from up here were tremendous!! All around us the clouds blanketed the mountain so it was like we were floating in the sky. In the distance we could see the big island, about 100 miles away! How's that for visibility? We hiked up white hill (a tiny little knob that affords wonderful views of the 'crater' (which really isn't a crater), then started down the sliding sands trail into the volcano (Don't tell Alison's mom!). It is a very different world in there. Except for a few small, very widely scattered bushes there didn't seem to be anything alive at all. Everything was in shades of deep red and brown, with no greens at all. The only sounds were our footsteps, and the occasional voice from the distance. It was really beautiful. There are campsites further inside the park, but staying there would be frightening! No sounds at all! Actually, it sounds like a great overnight trip.
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| Haleakala Sunset |
The sun was starting to sink behind the summit behind us, and we could watch the shadow move across the floor of the crater. From the other direction, thick clouds were slowly crawling up the mountain, soon hiding everything below us. We made it up to the summit about 20 minutes before sunset and had to add on every layer of clothing we had as the temperature dropped rapidly. But once the sun began setting, all discomfort was forgotten. The sunset from the top of the mountain was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. The 'ocean' of clouds hiding everything below us, and spectacular wispy formations level with us in the distance all began to change to wonderful shades of pink, orange and red. The sunset itself lasted more than a half hour as the sun passed through various layers of clouds before completely disappearing. But once it was gone, we had to run to the car and turn on the heater! Brrrr, the temperature drops like a rock at 10,000 feet!
We had stayed at the top longer than most people, so we didn't have to play caravan on the way down the hill. Driving the curvy road at night (and through thick patches of cloud) wasn't too pleasant, but since there was no traffic it wasn't stressful. We passed two or three cars coming up the hill, scientists on their way to work at the observatories on the summit.
Having had a full day, and being in a great mood from the sunset, we decided it was about time to go out and have a really nice dinner. We had a sushi house in Lahaina targeted, and our mouths were already watering by the time we were down the mountain and got onto Hwy. 30. Then the traffic stopped. Stopped cold. Didn't move. We sat for more than half an hour before we finally thought to turn on the radio and heard that there had been a fatal traffic accident on the road at 2:30 that afternoon, and that they were still working to clear it. Since there are no alternate roads, everyone was stuck. We were lucky we only got there at 7:30, but I wish we had been listening to the radio earlier so we could have gone to dinner elsewhere while the accident was cleared. As it was, we sat pretty much unmoving for more than 2 hours. People got pretty relaxed about it though, turning off their headlights and engines to rest and just listening to the radio and taking it easy. In LA there would have been shootings! By the time the opened up the parallel sugar cane road (potholed dirt road) to bypass the accident site, it was far too late to go out to dinner, so we just headed back and had cereal for dinner. That will teach us to put off a night out until the last night of the trip!
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Last Updated 4 November, 1999
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