RIVER SPIRITS: Two world-class kayakers take horses and a charismatic mule and pack their kayaks up into the unspoiled Columbia River Valley, over the rock and ice of the Purcell Mountains up to the Trikootenay Peak Glacierto Anderson Pass, and then make a spectacular first descent of Carney Creek, a major wild river, into Kootenay Lake. All told it's a journey of more than 60 miles through undivided wilderness, inhabited by moose and grizzly bears and by spectacular vegetation. Intercut with this adventure is the Ktunaxa tale of Yawo'nek, part of the Ktunaxa creation myth.