How To Fall Off A Mountain

Rich Benbrook

Using the Maps
Mount Whitney
Monarch Lake
Vidette Meadow
Cottonwood Lakes
Onion Valley to
Whitney Portal
Symmes Creek to
Mineral King
Mount Tyndall
Whitney Group
Mount Shasta
Mount Williamson
Palisades
Middle Palisade
Revisited
Thunder Mountain
Middle Palisade
Try Again
Middle Palisade
Take Three
Mount Sill
Thunderbolt Peak
Climbing Up
Thunderbolt Peak
Climbing Down
Thunderbolt Peak
Rescue
Aerial Photos
National Park Service Search and Rescue
Links
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Mount Sill

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Rich and Tim at Third Lake on the trail up North Fork Big Pine Creek Tim and I returned to the Palisades again in 2003. This time, we ascended the north fork of Big Pine creek and headed for Mount Sill. Kelly and I had climbed this peak previously from the other side. Tim and I were going to attempt it from a more difficult route. We established our base camp at the foot of the Palisade glacier, the largest in the Sierras. The terrain was rocky, and only small patches of level ground could be found. We set up our tent in the best spot we could find, and retreated inside while a storm passed over.

Camping in the talus at the base of the Palisade Glacier Sunset on the Palisade Glacier, from camp

That evening, as the storm cleared and we ventured back outside, we were both struck by the feeling that this was truly an alpine experience. Here we were, camped amongst the boulders looking up past a forbidding glacier at far-off snow-capped peaks. A cold wind blew down from the glacier, and we felt like mountaineers.

Clearing storm In the morning, we started up the glacier. Steeper than it looks from the bottom, climbing was difficult. The surface was hard and icy, and even with crampons it was difficult to maintain footing. Certainly, one slip would begin a dangerous and probably unstoppable slide to the rocks below. For the first time in my climbing experience, I felt slightly outside my comfort zone. Tim on the Palisade Glacier, above camp

We made it up and off the glacier. After a short rocky traverse, another snow field appeared. This too was steep, but our gear made short work of the climb. Upon reaching the top of this chute, we traversed a short ledge and begin the final climb to the summit. This was certainly the most difficult climb for me to date.

The climb down was even more disconcerting. Although the angle of the glacier is the same going down as up, stepping over the edge to start the climb down really exposes the steepness and the consequences of a slip. We made it down safely, and soon found ourselves once again celebrating with a nice steak dinner back in town. By this time in our climbing careers, we were growing accustomed to success. With this sense of invincibility, we planned our next adventure. This time, we would go for Thunderbolt Peak, without a doubt our most challenging climb and quite possibly beyond our capabilities. Of course, unless we tried, we'd never know.

Tim's Trip Report

Tim's Trip Report

I was about to fall off Thunderbolt Peak. I don't know what disturbed me more, the fact that I was going to fall off this mountain, or that I was going to do it just 20 feet below reaching my goal of so many years.


previous: Middle Palisade - Take Three next: Thunderbolt Peak - Climbing Up