Middle Palisade - Take Three |
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The following summer, we once again returned to Middle Palisade. We were going to attempt the same route up the south fork of Big Pine creek that had defeated us the previous year. This time, we were earlier in the season, so we expected the bergschrund to be smaller and less of an obstacle. Just in case, however, we brought our ice axes and crampons.
We camped a little higher this time, to shorten the summit day by an hour or so. We arrived at the glacier early, and had no difficulty climbing with the proper gear. The snow was soft enough that it would have been entirely possible to climb it in regular shoes. But we had carried all that fancy gear this far, and were determined to use it. The bergschrund was practically nonexistent, and presented no challenge.
The climb up the final thousand feet was beautiful. We climbed a near vertical chute that was consistently at a perfect level of difficulty for us; hard enough to be a little challenging, not so difficult as to cause us to fear for our safety.
With much fanfare and celebration, we reached the summit of Middle Palisade (14,040; 13 of 15) in July 2002. After eight years, the curse of this summit had been broken. The weather was great, so we lingered there for quite a while and savored our victorious climb.
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