How To Fall Off A Mountain

Rich Benbrook

Onion Valley to
Whitney Portal

Thunderbolt Peak
Climbing Down

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Onion Valley to Whitney Portal

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Kathy, Rich, Linda and Mike in Onion Valley at the Kearsarge Pass Trailhead Later that summer, Linda, her brother Mike, Kathy and I left a car at the Whitney Portal trailhead, drove to Onion Valley, and started up the Kearsarge Pass trail in our ambitious plan to follow the John Muir trail to its terminus at the summit of Mount Whitney.

Top of Kearsarge Pass We climbed Kearsarge Pass, joined the John Muir trail, and pressed onward to Vidette Meadow for our first night's camp. We met a group of hikers who were doing the entire 202 mile John Muir trail from Yosemite to Mount Whitney. They were in a bit of a bind, as they had left all their cooking utensils back at Onion Valley in a misguided attempt to lighten their loads. They traded us stories from the trail for the use of our kitchen that evening. Vidette Meadow After dinner, we hung our food from a steel cable thoughtfully strung for just this purpose between two sturdy trees, and slept soundly knowing that our trip would not again be cut short by a hungry bear.

The next day we broke camp and continued up the trail. We followed Bubbs creek, more or less, as this raucous little waterway cascades down a series of granite ledges. When the creek becomes too vertical for our path to follow, we break away and climb a series of switchbacks through the forest. Early in the trip, our packs were still quite heavy and we felt the effects of this necessary but unwelcome steepening of the trail. With the return of the sound of rushing water, we knew we were once again approaching the creek and nearing the top of that particular climb.

In this manner we followed Bubbs creek through a succession of rushing whitewater and deep, calm pools, each more spectacular than the previous, and punctuated by the occasional lush meadow overflowing with wildflowers.

On the way to Forester Pass We stopped for lunch in a clearing created by an avalanche some winters past. The path of the avalanche down the mountain was evident by a barren scar left in its wake. We had a glimpse of the power wielded by this awesome force of nature when we discovered not only had all the trees been flattened where the great wave of snow roared down mountain, but also where it coasted back up the other side. Remnants of giant trees lay piled around us like so many matchsticks. Nature was regenerating, though, as countless wildflowers and small shrubs were taking advantage of the sunlight to grow like they never could in the perpetual shade of the forest. Camping north of Forester Pass

Late in the day, we reached a small level spot near a high pond at the foot of Forester Pass. Here we decided to spend the night and climb this next pass fresh in the morning. We were well above the altitude where trees no longer grow. The landscape was stark, barren, and unbelievably beautiful. At this altitude, with no interference from haze or artificial light, the sky glows with countless stars not visible down in the cities. Since the weather was good we slept outside, and awoke at dawn with a crust of frost over our sleeping bags.

The view northwest from camp

We got an early start, as ahead lay Forester Pass. At 13,200 feet this is the highest pass crossed by the John Muir trail until the climb of Mount Whitney itself, and is also the highest point on the Mexico to Canada Pacific Crest Trail. For years, the trail avoided this seemingly insurmountable pass, and instead crossed over to the east side of the Sierra crest at Center Basin, and then crossed west again at Shepard Pass to rejoin its present route. As we traversed the pass Crossing Forester Pass and started down the south side, drill holes in the granite were visible where the trail had to be blasted through solid rock. At the bottom of the pass stood a rock monument in honor of those who gave their lives for the construction of this trail. South side of Forester Pass

The view south We had now entered the upper plateau of the Kern River. The terrain here was gentle enough to permit cross-country travel, so we abandoned the trail for a while and set off toward a medium sized lake that was reported to offer great camping. While we were on the John Muir Trail we encountered a number of other hikers. This was not the case once we left the trail, and even though we were less than a mile from the well-traveled corridor it seemed we had the wilderness to ourselves.

The view from this lake was more inspiring than any other I had seen. Forester Pass and the South into the Kern Canyon Kings-Kern Divide were behind us. Ahead to the south the great chasm of the Kern River cut deep into the mountains. The geology of this region is interesting in that the Kern River does not flow out of the mountains as is usually the case for most rivers. Instead, it flows north to south in the same direction as the mountain range, splitting the range into two separate ridges. To the right, the Great Western Divide, with peaks exceeding 13,000 feet in altitude, stood as sentinels blocking easy access from the popular camping destinations in Sequoia National Park. From camp at an unnamed lake. Mount Whitney on the horizon Although we were technically still in the National Park, we seemed to be a world apart. To the left the Sierra Crest rises to its crescendo, eventually topping out on Mount Whitney at 14,494 feet. The feeling of remoteness was overpowering, as one could look in any direction and see no sign of civilization, only more wilderness. We decided to camp there.

Setting the bear alarm One lone tree stood near camp, and we did our best to secure our food. The tree was not nearly large enough to keep our dinner out of reach of a bear, so we rigged a noisy trip-line using some string and aluminum pots. At least we would hear if a bear approached. The sun set and a full moon rose over Mount Whitney, our destination still nearly a week away. A pack of coyotes yipped in delight, sounding like they had cornered one of the fat marmots we had seen earlier, and were anticipating a tasty dinner.

Fortunately, the bears must not have been hungry, as we had no nocturnal visitors. We camped here for two nights and enjoyed a much deserved rest day to swim in the lake, lay in the sun, catch fish, and nap. We spent our off day exploring the neighborhood. Without the load of heavy packs, it felt like we were walking on the moon, and could travel miles without tiring.

Great campsite The rest of the trip was one unforgettable moment after another, and on day eight we begin our final climb toward the summit of Mount Whitney. We were in good shape, acclimated to the altitude, and our packs were lightened by the consumption of over a week's supply of food. Easily reaching the summit, we even opted to carry our packs all the way, rather than leave them at trail crest, as most hikers do, for recovery on the way back down.