More on the fine art of degaussing

I have learned from Ken Layton via the BYOAC Monitor Forum Thread that my light spot may be due to a magneized monitor frame. His suggestions to remedy that including next steps are included below:

Ken Layton -

Two possibilities on the discoloration:

1) The metal frame of the monitor has become magnetized (just keep degaussing with the manual degausser once or twice a day for several days). Remember that a degausser is an intermittent duty device. No more than two minutes on and then at least 30 minutes off before using it again or else you'll burn it up.

2) The yoke has slid back from the 'bell' of the picture tube slightly or the purity ring assembly has lost some of it's magnetic strength.

My Reply -

Will do on the degaussing routine.

On the bell slipping, is there a way to confirm/discount that?

Re: The purity rings, if that is the case I assume nothing can be done short of replacing the yoke correct?

Ken Layton -

In regards to the yoke slipping away from the picture tube's bell, loosen the yoke clamping screw and try pushing it forward toward the 'bell'. Warning: You'll have to do it while the power is on! High voltage present! Wear leather gloves and have a helper watch the picture as you move the yoke. This is easiest to adjust when the game is in a monitor test pattern screen displaying a solid red screen.

In regards to the purity/convergence rings: you don't replace or even fool with the yoke when this assembly goes bad. The purity rings are made of a ceramic magnet which can lose magnetism over time or someone may have bumped/moved the adjustment tabs on it.

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Be sure to check out the the Rescue Tron! Project Thread and the Monitor Repair Thread at ArcadeControls.com
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1 Step Forward, 2 Steps Back

I'm not gonna say I wasted $20 on the degaussing coil as I needed one anyway, but it does not appear to have solved the issue for which it was purchased. Did a bit of testing tonight, here are the results;

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Monitor
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1. Degaussed the monitor as instructed, one time for about 2 min. I will be checking to see if I should try again or for a longer period. I was doing this to try and eliminate a spot in the upper right hand corner (when vertically mounted) that appears to have washed out color. It isn't really that bad, but if it is fixable I would like to do so. I think you can see the discoloration in this pic, upper right corner.



2. I suspect I have a vertical hold issue. When I started the monitor it was rolling again. I barely touched the horiz hold and it stopped. A few min later it started again and it took a bit longer to stop, this time playing with the vert hold and the vert damp. I suspect I should just go ahead and replace all the pots.



3. One issue I was having was that the monitor would reset (power down and up again) if the ac cord was bumped. I picked up a replacement connector and reterminated the connection. This issue is fixed.



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Controls
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4. I also reterminated the molex-type connector for the joystick trigger. For the most part this worked though there were a couple of instances in the test mode in which it did not appear to work. I will need to watch this.

5. Controls overall - Right now the joystick is as I found it minus the trigger repair. This thing will need to be rebuilt. It feels choppy, response is poor, and there were times it did not appear to make proper contact. Also, even though my CP is latched down it is moving all over the place. Not sure if there is some rubber missing or what, but it needs to be secured properly.



6. I noticed in the test mode, in the controls menu that when I tested the spinner there was a stripe of static on the screen. I did not notice this in gameplay, so I will just keep an eye on it.

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Sound
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7. In the test mode, I think in the self diagnostics, I got a "Sound Interface Error" error. The sound was working so not sure what this means.

8. In the test mode / sound test - all effects sounded great except two of the music items. I think it was the "success" and "fail" music. Anyway, these two had noticable static on the line wheras others did not.

Call Me Magneto (or would that be de-magneto)

Anyway, I received the degaussing coil today from MCM Supply for about $20 and will see if I can try it out tonight. Though the pic makes it look pink it is actually red so I won't have to do a little dance when I use it on the monitor.

Diversion

I am ordering a degaussing coil to try and remedy a light spot in the upper right hand corner of the display.

While I wait for that I have two other issues.

1. I am getting a sound interface error on screen with no sound. More to come on that.

2. Joystick fire button is not working. I took the joystick apart and it appears that the trigger wires were getting pinched inside the joystick. There is a spring assembly that surrounds the wires, and it is pretty chewed up. I did some continuity testing and the wire has a short somewhere for sure. I will be fixing that in the next couple of nights.

While I dink around with that, here is something pretty cool. I found this site that has a PC simulation of the old hand held Tomy Tron game. I used to have this thing, and though it was simple it was alot of fun. The game had a smoked plexi shroud that allowed you to see the circuits inside the game.



Anyway, if you want to check it out, go to this site ( http://madrigal.retrogames.com/ )and go to downloads. Don't ask me why but you can only download from the Italian mirror site. Try Babel Fish to translate if needed.

Enjoy!

I'm A Steely Eyed Monitor Repair Man - Not Really, But I Feel Like One!

Thanks to some great input from folks in the BYOAC Monitor Forum, KLOV Forums, and Vector List, things are really looking up!

I put the chassis back in and started working through the settings, here are the results -

Blurry Picture

- Duh, adjusted focus got better - Fixed

3 images

- Tweaked vert hold and black - Fixed

Horizontal bleeding

- I started with the black, this helped a bit, then tweaked the drive. I turned the drive all the way in the direction that was helping the problem but bottomed out with bleeding to spare.

- Tried the horiz and vert raster shift pins. There are three pins for each setting, tried each horiz pin, no change. Just to see what it would do, tried verts as well. No change. What do these things do?

- Tried tweaking the vert damp, again a bit off the problem, but trying to see what it does. No change.

- Finally tweaked the Red, Green, and Blue cutoffs. AHA! - Mostly fixed (see below #3 and #4)

Issues outstanding -

1. Upper left corner as the monitor sits on the desk (horizontal orientation) the color, mostly appears to be the blue is a little lighter than the rest of the screen? FYI: I installed a capkit already.

2. Very top of the screen, right 2/3 - there is a thin line with multiple colors. In the Tank game or the cycles, this line is obscured by the playfield frame. Is this a Tron bug?

3. In order to really get the cutoffs set correctly, I am going to need some contact cleaner. The rest of the pots turned smoothly, but these are very jumpy. Will pick that up in the am.

4. Also to get the cutoffs set properly and fine tune the display further, I need to get into test mode. Waiting for the various games to display makes it hard to test. To do this I need to be able to use the trigger and the trigger was removed from the joystick. I have it but it needs to be reinstalled. There is a security torx screw ontop of the joystick and I will need to pick up the right bit in the morning as well. I could hack the trigger input, but since I need the other stuff, now is as good a time as any.

You Have the Game, Now See the Movie...

A fellow tech-head at work with has generously donated a Tron VHS tape to help keep me in the spirit of the build. Good thing too, I was starting to run out of Tron references for the project blog!

A Twinkle in Tron's Eye

A step in the right direction tonight. I resoldered a few of the jumper wires on the 130VDC trace along the front edge of the PCB. I now have a picture of sorts on screen wheras before I had nothing.

Current issues are:

1. REALLY bad horizontal (vertical for tron) tearing (or is it bleeding?) , nearly 2 inches long.

2. It appears I have three images on screen, or the picture is rolling so much I am getting an animation, picket fence effect and seeing three images.

3. Was not quite able to get the image to stabilize vertically (that is really horizontally for Tron, but vertically as the monitor sits now)

Regroup, Rethink, etc.

Tron Shroud Art Released!

A note on RGVAC says it all from Darin at www.PhoenixArcade.com

Thanks to all that waited.

My website will have pics and the item added to the shopping cart
tomorrow.

Price is $50 plus $12 shipping. Paypal at azarcadegames@cox.net

Thanks
darin

www.PhoenixArcade.com

(Click Image for Larger Version)

AHA! Verrrrry Interesting!

Following a wg4900 troubleshooting flowchart, I tested the voltage output by the chassis resistor, R503. It should read +130VDC. Bad news is that it does not, coming in at between +160VDC and +168VDC. Good news is I am one step closer to finding the problem. Next I need to examine a jumper wire and some traces, but I need to remove the chassis for that. I will let it sit over night (baby is asleep so best not discharge now) and take a look-see tomorrow.

Also, anyone have a Radio Shack Multimeter #22-168?

I cannot find my disk with the logging software and need a friendly download.

Monitor Manual and Flowchart

Busy working the flowchart and manual to see what might be wrong.

wg-4900 Manual (PDF)

Pouting Tron

Well, Tron is apparently still pissed at the aborted eBay de-rezz. I received a cap kit on Saturday for the wg19k4906 from coin-op parts supplier extraordinaire, "THE REAL" Bob Roberts.

I installed as directed and tested the previously unresponsive monitor. It disappointed once again and showed little life.

There was a brief crackle, mostly what you would hear when you fire up a monitor, but possibly a little more. This will be my first cap kit install so I am unsure if that is normal.

No pic, no nothing else. I will have to regroup and try something else.

Static on the line

I was concerned about ending the auctions for Tron mostly because I did not want to disappoint others who might need that one last part for thiers. Overall, the feedback in response to my notes was very positive and obviously came from fellow collectors who have experienced similar doubt. Of course there are exceptions...enjoy!

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Slammy98 -

I AM GLAD YOU RESPECT THE GANES AS I DO

I HAVE A FULLY RESTORED TRON GAME THAT STOPPED WORKING 4 MONTHS AGO. I AM IN NEED OF A NEW BOARD

LET ME KNOW IF YOU CHANGE YOUR MING OF KNOW OF ANY AVAILABLE

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jfeeny -

No worries! I've done a few TRON's and they are pretty easy to restore. And more fun to play when finished! =) good luck w/ the restoration!

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dean-brown -

No Problem. I am glad that you are doing that. I have one that has been sitting for many years and am now on the roade to fixing it up as well. I will get mine done and you might see it on an auction on ebay or i might keep it I dont know, but I do know that I want to make it a nice game again.

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This gem from "coinoperator" aka: hansbalk@xs4all.nl

Crook.. Ratface I informed Ebay

Thank you,
coinoperator

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MCP: I feel a presence. Another warrior is on the mesa...

Damn Straight!

Well call me John Kerry because I have changed my mind. I am going to see this project through. More to come...

A letter sent to all bidders: Dear_Prospective_Buyer.txt

:End of Line

Well I got Tron working and realized I never really cared for the game. I
am jonesin' for a Spy Hunter so instead of the Tron restoration, I will move
on.

The parts will go to help other Trons and I found someone who needs the
cabinet for thier tron so not a drop will be wasted.

Thanks for looking and thanks for all the help with getting it running. It
will be good training for the Spy Hunter!

If you need Tron Items, check out my Auction

Also, ever wonder what it really takes to restore a game? Check out this price list and you will see why these restorations MUST be a labor of love!

TronProjectedCosts.pdf

Note I did not add the materials for repairing the cabinet and of course the time involved.

ITS ALIVE!!!!!

Tron is ALIVE!

I cleaned the boards, the board's pins and replaced the ribbon cables with
50 pin SCSI cables. Plugged it back in and still no sound.

I hooked up the crappy "test" monitor again and figured out where my blue
went. There was a little adapter left over from galaxian that re-routed the
RGB pins. I removed that, plugged it in and bingo! Blue is back including
all of the text (scores etc). I am convinced the remaining video issues are
all related to the crappy monitor.

Now the sound. How's this for a noob mistake? **clears throat**

YOU NEED TO COIN-UP BEFORE YOU WILL HEAR SOUND! THERE IS NO SOUND IN THE
ATTRACT MODE ON TRON!

-ahem

So sound is there and sounds great too.

I need to put the trigger back in the joystick, someone thought it would be
a good idea to pull it out for some reason, but the joystick movements work
as does the spinner!

I think a capkit on the original monitor and the trigger install and this is
a fully operational game though still in need of ALOT of TLC.

Ultra-Rare Tron 3D Gridbug Mod Chip Discovered!

I'll start the bidding at $1000...click the pics for larger versions

Fw: TRON coindoor "tilt" switch.

Subject: TECH: TRON coindoor "tilt" switch.

> On mine the switch is gone, just wires hanging. Is this switch normally
> open or normally closed?
>
> i.e. Should I connect the two wires or cap them separately?
>
>

Fw: TECH: TRON coindoor "tilt" switch.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Layton"
Newsgroups: rec.games.video.arcade,rec.games.video.arcade.collecting
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:23 AM
Subject: Re: TECH: TRON coindoor "tilt" switch.

> The switch is normally open. If you are not going to use this circuit
> then the wires should NOT touch.
>

Fw: RASTER: Tron Video Questions

----- Original Message -----
From: "James R. Twine"
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 8:31 PM
Subject: RE: RASTER: Tron Video Questions

> > From: James McGovern [mailto:James@RetroBlast.com]
> >
> > Known issues with the Galaxian monitor:
> >
> > 1. "Dripping" of the image, most noticable on Galaxian with
> > the red fonts.
>
> If this is happening on one side of the screen (top, left, right or
> bottom), it is often called "tearing", if you look carefully it will
> seem like part of the image has "wrapped around" on itself. This is
> often solved with a cap kit. If all of a particular color looks
> "offset" from the rest of the images, that is another problem.
>
> > 2. Green glow about the entire screen, scanlines visible
>
> See if you have reversed your SYNC and GREEN lines. If it looks
> something like the Galaxian (4-Play) image shown on here:
> http://www.jrtwine.com/jtwine/images/DSCN0561.JPG
>
> -Then that might be your problem. BTW, on this image:
>
> http://www.jrtwine.com/jtwine/arcade/DSCN0560.JPG
>
> -The lines at the top of the image are an effect of "tearing".
>
> > 1. Upper right corner (if mounted vertically) has a tearing
> > effect in that the picture is "falling" about 3 inches down.
>
> OK, try adjusting the horizontal or vertical hold, and see if that
> locks the picture in.
>
> > 3. It appeared blue or a color close to it was not
> > displaying. I noticed the scores were not displaying [...]
>
> It sounds obvious, but see if your BLUE line is not connected to the
> monitor.
>
> > 4. During the attract mode, when it switches from one game to
> > the other there is brief static on the screen in the transition.
>
> I think that is normal. But I have not had my Tron for many years
> now...!
>
> > 5. Screen image shakes a bit up and down. I cannot remember
> > if I saw this in galaxian.
>
> No idea. Bad AC and/or filter?
>
> > James

Fw: RASTER: Tron Video Questions

----- Original Message -----
From: "Cylon B"
To:
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 1:57 PM
Subject: RE: RASTER: Tron Video Questions

>
> James,
>
> ID the PCB pin that has the blue output and check with a voltmeter if
there
> is any activity there. If there is you are going to be in the scenario
> below.
>
> In my experience so far, missing colors have been always caused by one of
> two problems:
>
> - Wiring bad contact - either between the PCB and monitor or monitor
chassis
> and neck board.
> ID the wires responsible for getting the blue all the way from the PCB and
> check for damaged connectors, etc.
>
> - The transistor in the neckboard responsible for the amplification of the
> blue color is fried. Check in the monitor manual which one it is and test
> it. I am almost positive you can test those transistors in the pcb (no
> desoldering).
>
> And of course, before anything else, try readjusting the color pots on the
> monitor neck board. Maybe your blue is just turned all the way down,
>
> Breno

Thinking Out loud - Re: Sound Issues

I am looking at my PS test table again, and noticing that I recorded +16.60V from the connector labeled "Audio." The cabinet schematic did not specify a voltage for that connection. I wonder if that has anything to do with my sound problems (no sound except an occasional bleep and some static). +16.60V is not really a standard voltage I would think. Maybe it is supposed to be +12V.

Anyway, thinking out loud.

Missing Blue?

It looked like I was missing blue on the test last night. It appeared blue or a color close to it was not displaying. I noticed the scores were not displaying and the attract screen that shows points per enemy listed no points. From other pics this appears to be blue.

A Portion of the actual attract screen:


Here is what I see (note there is no blue text on my screen):

Signs of Life!!!!

I hooked up the Galaxian monitor and have video!

So I know:

There is power going to the monitor

There is video being output by the boards

The attract screens appear ok though there are some video issues.

(I do not know how much of these issues are Tron and how much are the monitor from the galaxian)

Video Issues -

A "tearing" effect in the upper right corner

Blue or something close to it may not be displaying

Picture is shaking up and down a bit

More to come as I know more....

Missing IC - NOT

Edit - No missing IC. FOlks at BYOAC set me straight. Got a good faq too.

Bally Midway MCR System Games FAQ

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Just realized ICS "A10" is missing from the soundboard. I would think that
might have something to do with the lack of sound...

Here is the diagram of the Super Sound PCB


If you have one available let me know. Also, how can I be sure the others
have not been shuffled around?

rescuetron at earthlink dot com

Poor Tron

I looked around some more and the consensus seemed to be that disconnecting the purple wire may get results. I did so at lunch, no change.

The PCB LED is on, but as I have not verified that the sound works, and I am pretty sure the monitor is busted, it could be playing blind (and deaf).

I am going to plugin the monitor that came from the galaxian on Sat. If there are no signs of life....

Poor Tron

The Purple Wire?

I am getting feedback about the "purple wire." This is the wire to the reset function and apparently it can cause issues. I have heard suggestions from cutting it to sending +5V through it.

I am doing a bit more investigating on that tidbit.

The Purple Wire on RGVAC

The note on BYOAC about the Purple Wire

Also, I am going to try hooking up a known working monitor from the Galaxian I just parted out to see if I get anything else video wise.

Minor update

Checked the fuse on the monitor it is ok...why I have NOTHING happening with
the monitor is a mystery.

Fired it up and I am now seeing light on the main cpu led.

Volume is up, no sound being heard except for intermittent scratchy sounds
from the speakers.

No love from Tron.