Simple Diagnostic Tests

Electrical Tests:

  • Check line in for power.

  • Check thermal fuse for continuity.

  • Check thermostats for continuity.

  • Verify audibly that pump runs.

  • Verify by touch that boiler gets hot.

  • Verify that 3-way solenoid valve works (dumps water in drip tray at end of shot).

Water Tests:

Water debit test; (Goal=65±5 ml water in 20 seconds)

  • With a cold machine, test pump output by checking output volume using the tube that connects the pump & boiler. It's advisable to buy a two foot piece of tubing to make sure you don't pump water over the electrics.

  • Switch pump on and measure the quantity of water in 20 seconds (If it's not at least 60ml. the pump is defective.)

  • Reconnect tube between pump & boiler. Test output volume again, this time at the portafilter (no filter basket).

  • If the test at the pump output was OK, (and if your machine has one and the 3-way valve tests OK; dumps water after a shot is pulled), & the test at the portafilter fails there is a problem with the brew group. It could be calcified or it could have a faulty group valve (if equipped with one).

Water pressure test; (Goal=130 psi/9 Bar)

The oscillating pumps in Gaggia home espresso machines are rated at 14+ bars, and conventional wisdom supposes that espresso is best extracted at 9 bar (130 PSI). To test the actual pressure at the group you'll need to either buy a portafilter pressure gauge or assemble one yourself & then adjust the pressure relief valve (OPV/PRV) until you achieve 9 bar dynamic pressure in the group.

Brewing water temperature test; (Goal=200±5 °F)

Is the boiler getting the water hot enough? Find out using Styrofoam cup method. Or, if you need to be super accurate & do this for a living there's the Scace Device.