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The Great Dane
is a man's dog;
he is big, fast, powerful, and courageous.
The Great Dane
is a woman's dog;
he is gentle, affectionate, and protective.
The Great Dane
is a child's dog;
with his inborn patience and understanding.
Unknown
The Whippet: A Sleek, Swift, Athletic,
Elegant and Intelligent Sighthound
There
are some things, however, that we either have not seen in these books, or
things we feel should be stressed, and that is the reason for this pamphlet.
We have purposely tried to avoid being long-winded and therefore, some explanations
may lack the detail you would like to see. If there is something you don’t
understand or something about which you would like to know more, please
do not hesitate to ask us.
Section List
Registration
Tattoo
What
To Do If Your Puppy Is Wonderful and You Want To Tell Someone
What
To Do if You Have A Problem With Your Puppy
What
is a Whippet Like?
Veterinarian
Health Care
Nutrition
RAW Feeding
Water
Air
Chiropractic
Acupuncture
Homeopathy
Other Holistic Techniques
Conventional Medicine
What About Vaccines?
What to do if my boarding or training facility
wants proof of immunity?
Worms
Bloat
Heart Worms
Vomiting & Diarrhea
Care of Cropped Ears
Equipment
Grooming
Training
Miscellaneous Items
Suggested Reading
The Crate
What A Puppy is Not
Your puppy has already been
registered as an individual with the American Kennel Club (AKC). To register
him as your own, simply follow the directions on the reverse side of the
form, which accompanies your puppy.
Tattoo
Your
puppy has been permanently tattooed with a number to protect him against
loss or theft The number,
is
located inside his right flank .
KEEP
THE HAIR SHAVED OFF THE NUMBER TO MAKE IT AS EASY TO READ AS POSSIBLE.
These
are the current tattoo registries (as of 2008)
Tatoo-A-Pet
6571 S.W. 20th Ct. Ft. Lauderdale FL 33317
Telephone: (954) 581-5834 or (800) TATTOOS (828-8667)
Fax: (954) 581-0056
info@tattoo-a-pet.com
http://www.akccar.org/enroll/index.cfm
AKC Companion Animal Recovery (CAR) accepts all pets that are identified
with a microchip, tattoo, or the new AKC CAR collar tag. You can enroll your
pet today by simply choosing to enroll online, or call 1-800-252-7894 to request
an enrollment form.
NDR (National Dog Registry)
POB 51105
Mesa, AZ 85208
800-NDR-DOGS
Call or write to us! We love hearing how well your puppy has fit into your household, that he is well and healthy and everybody loves him. Please send us updates and pictures, if possible , every year throughout his life. This could easily be done if you include us on your December holiday list. However you do it, please keep in touch.
What To Do
if You Have A Problem With Your Puppy
Call or write to us! We don’t love this type of communication as well as the one mentioned above, but we do want to know if things are not going well. We have many years of experience and feel that this is part of what you bought when you purchased your puppy from us. Maybe we have a suggestion, which will put a new perspective on your situation.
This is quoted from the American Whippet Club Home Page at http://breedclub.org/AWC.htm
"Welcome to the American Whippet Club Home Page. The Whippet is a medium-sized member of the sighthound family, and is very similar in appearance to the Greyhound, only smaller. Originally bred by working class people in England to provide rabbits for the table and racing sport on the weekends, the Whippet is now one of the most stylish of breeds--equally at home gracing the couch with his elegant long lines or running at speeds of up to 35 miles per hour!
Whippets are gentle, sensitive, and affectionate dogs. They are generally very quiet and easy to groom and care for in the house. However, as premier canine athletes, they require short periods of vigorous exercise almost daily, and do best where they can either run in a safely fenced yard, or be taken on leash to a secure park or field for play sessions with balls and frisbees. Whippets, like all other sighthounds, are visually oriented and love to chase objects (like rabbits and squirrels) which they may see at a distance. This means that they are vulnerable to being hit by cars. They are keen hunters and will run into busy roads if they see something interesting to chase, oblivious to the calls of their owners. For this reason, you must never have your Whippet unleashed near any moving vehicles.
As might be expected, Whippets excel at coursing and racing. Unlike Greyhound racing, Whippet racing is purely for sport and not for gambling or prize money. The Whippet's natural athletic gifts and quick mind can also be put to use in agility, flyball, obedience, and frisbee competitions. Currently, they are one of the most popular show dogs in the Hound Group. Of course, most Whippets are valued first and foremost as delightful housepets.
Here you can learn more about the breed, get information about upcoming Whippet events, find a local Whippet Club or breeder, and see a list of books and magazines which contain even more information about this most versatile of dogs--the Whippet!"
An essential
ingredient in your pup's health care is the selection of a veterinarian.
For Danes: be sure to select a
veterinarian
who knows something about Great Danes specifically. It is a good idea to
contact local Great Dane owners and get names of veterinarians who have many
Danes, St. Bernards, Irish Wolfhounds, Newfoundlands and other giant breeds
in their practice. For Whippets: Be sure to select a veterinarian
who knows something about Whippets specifically. It is a good idea to contact
local Whippet owners and get names of veterinarians who have Whippet, Greyhounds,
Salukis and other Sighthounds in their practice. If there are no other owners
of giant breeds in your geographical area, it is a wise idea to interview
different veterinarians until you find one who meets your needs. Veterinarians
do not mind if you make an appointment simply to ask questions. Do expect
to pay for an office call, however, as you are taking time.
With
correct nutritional care and upbringing, your dog should not have to visit
your veterinarian except for the annual visit and emergencies. Because emergencies
sometimes happen, it is essential that you have agood working relationship
with all of the staff of a veterinary hospital. One way to become known
by the
veterinary
staff in a pleasant way is to make arrangements to drop in on a monthly
basis to weigh your pup while it is growing. The advantages are several fold:
the hospital staff will begin to know you and your puppy as individuals, your
pup will meet new people, an important step in "socialization" and he will
have
a
positive attitude towards visiting the veterinarian which will make everyone
happier should you need to take advantage of their medical care.
Because Whippets have very little body fat, they are particularly sensitive to anesthesia. This section pertains specifically to Whippets, but is pertinent to Great Danes as well.
The following text is written by a veterinarian who is also a Whippet breeder. She gives a variety of options that most veterinarians should be able to work with. I have put her preferences in bold. Discuss this topic during the initial interview with the veterinarian you select and confirm the anesthetic protocol before you leave your dog for any anesthetic procedure.
Here is Lisa Costello's opinion
"
Pre-anesthetic agents:
These
are drugs that help dry up secretions and keep the heart rate up when
the
dog is going under. Either one is acceptable in the sighthound:
Atropine
Glycopyrrolate
One
of the above will usually be combined with one or more of the following
sedatives:
Acepromazine
Butorphanol
Rompun
Telazol
I
use light doses of Acepromazine and Butorphanol combined with Atropine.
Induction
agents: These are given to induce a deep enough plane of
anesthesia
so the endotracheal tube can be placed:
Ketamine/Valium
Propofol
(the drug of choice in sighthounds)
Thiobarbituates
Telazol
Methohexital
I
use Ketamine/Valium on my younger, healthy patients, Propofol on all
sighthounds.
Inhalation
agents: These are the gases that maintain anesthesia.
Isoflurane
(the inhalational agent of choice)
Halothane
Metofane
I
use Isoflurane exclusively in my clinic. I do not mask patients unless
they
are VERY critical. I believe it is a terrifying experience for the
dog.
This
is not meant to be an inclusive list by any means. Other considerations
include:
Who does the anesthesia? How is the dog monitored once it is under?
What drugs is your vet comfortable with (VERY important)? How, where
and by whom
are
the dogs recovered?
How do you ask a vet about anesthetic choices for your dogs? Be brave and ask specifically what agents they use. If you get the smug smile that things will be OK, press onward for specific information. If you don't get it, don't let them anesthetize your animal until you do. If you know other people who have had good experiences with their vet and anesthesia, explore that possibility.
I hope you have found a vet you can work with!"
Lisa
Costello, DVM
The emphasis has changed in this country from treatment of illness to maintenance of health. This is as true for our pets as it is for ourselves. There are some medical conditions which, when they occur, require veterinary treatment, and we will address some of them later First, we’d like to introduce you to some alternative health care concepts which focus on wellness. In many cases, these approaches are viable and often less expensive than traditional avenues.
It’s a cliche, but that’s because it’s true: "You are what you eat" and your dog is too. The MOST important health care you can provide for your puppy is superior nutrition. Health problems, from an upset stomach to severe bone diseases, can be minimized by taking this subject seriously.
Accompanying your puppy is copy of his present diet and suggestions for feeding him as he grows. There are practically as many diets available on the market as there are dogs. Should you, at some later date, decide to change your dog’s food to one of them, there is some information you should know before you do.
Wendell
O. Belfield, DVM says this about commercial foods:
"
It is obvious to me that the commercial products are adequate for maintaining
nothing more than a minimal state of health. By themselves, these products
seem to fall short in protecting an animal from the normal stresses encountered
in life and the abnormal stresses of chemical toxins, drugs, parasites, trauma
and environmental pollution." (See reference in "Suggested Reading)
A comparison of dog food prices will give you an erroneous view of their actual costs. A species appropriate diet actually saves money by providing better nutrition and fewer trips to the veterinarian. The smaller wastes resulting from a better utilized food is an added benefit.
A quick anatomical tour of the dog’s alimentary system demonstrates why we prefer real food to any commercial dry or canned formula. Dogs are carnivorous in contrast to cows who are herbivorous. Carnivores have sharp teeth for tearing flesh, rather than flat teeth for grinding, as herbivores do. Meat, in the presence of heat tends to putrefy; therefore, the dog has a very short intestine compared to herbivores so that the meat can pass more quickly through the body. The body of the dog is designed to thrive healthily on a meat-based diet rather than one which is primarily grain. Dogs are not 100% carnivores, however. If you observe wolves and other canids in the wild, you will notice that they also eat roots, berries and other raw vegetables. Below this section is one on raw feeding and where I expand on this concept.
Aside from the fact that there is a paucity of animal protein (and none of it raw) in the commercial dry dog foods, and there is too much cooked grain, there are other things which are at the least, unnecessary and at the most, harmful. This is a sampling of some of the most harmful ingredients.
1) BHT & BHA, ethyoxyquin- Chemical additives used to preserve fat. They have been used in animal research to produce brain defects.
2) Sugar, artificial flavor & colors- all are "non-foods" and have been implicated in personality disorders including autism and hyperactivity in children .
3)
Lead- predominantly found in canned foods from the seams of the cans.
Toxic levels of lead has been found in some foods.
4)
Aluminum- from cans; implicated in brain disorders in humans
You should also know that most pet food manufacturers take advantage of the availability of condemned "4-D" meat sources. This stands for dead, dying, diseased or disabled animals and are prohibited for use in human foods.
We have researched many dog foods, and can not truly recommend any of them. All dry or canned foods are cooked and have abundant grains. None has viable probiotics (good bacteria) in them, nor are the enzyme components alive. Some are better than others, but none provides the opportunity for optimum health.
Because good nutrition is the foundation of health, I feel I cannot
stress it enough. Please follow this link http://home.earthlink.net/~pawsreflect/nutrition.html
to an article I wrote on raw, natural feeding, This is the way your
puppy is eating now and the way I strongly urge you to continue. If your
veterinarian is skeptical or critical of the way you are feeding, please
share this article. Lack of education on this topic does not make an acceptable
reason to change your puppy to an inferior diet.
Water
is the most critical nutrient after oxygen required by our bodies, yet we
often take it for granted. It is generally accepted today that our water
sources are not healthy enough for drinking whether they are from private
wells or city sources. Purifying your own water with a reverse osmosis system
is the best way to
provide
pure water. Ask us more about this important topic.
Indoor air is often even more compromised than outdoor air. Ask us how you can optimize your indoor environment.
Chiropractic
treatment is built on the theory that nerve energy which runs through the
spinal column and is necessary for proper functioning of organs and tissues
can be blocked when the vertebrae are malaligned or "subluxated." A simple
physical adjustment re-aligns the vertebrae, allows the body to function
properly and to restore itself to health. Dogs are less affected by many
of the stresses of daily life which cause muscle tension and some subluxations
to occur than we are. They also walk on all fours, a more balanced form of
locomotion than ours. But they are subject to their own stresses, particularly
injury from playing with other dogs or just slipping on an icy road. A trip
to the chiropractor can be a simple, inexpensive and successful treatment,
one to invest in before resorting to drugs, x-rays or surgery. Our dogs are
regularly adjusted by a chiropractor. The American Veterinary Chiropractic
Association has trained a lot of veterinarians in this modality. Contact
them to see if there is a veterinary chiropractor near you. 309-658-2920.
Acupuncture is another discipline, which works on restoring the natural energy flow in the body by the use of special, ultra-fine needles, inserted at specific sites. Accupressure is applying pressure to these same points without breaking the skin. A person’s fingers or a pencil eraser are adequate for pressure application. Accupressure can be done at home and is a very helpful adjunct to other treatments Acupuncture is often used with great success in some areas which are often considered difficult by veterinarians: spinal disc problems, arthritis, hip dysplasia, skin allergies, kidney disorders and metabolic disturbances.
Dr. Richard Pitcairn, in his book (in the "Suggested Reading" section) describes his most often used technique this way:
"Hahnemann
(Samuel Hahnemann, German physician and father of homeopathy) noted certain
similarities between symptoms produced by some diseases and by drugs used
to treat them. From that relationship he formed this theory. A disease can
be cured by whatever medicine produces similar symptoms when given to a
healthy person. Called the Law of Similars, its beauty is that the treatment
provided goes with rather than against the body’s own efforts to regain
health."
Dogs
can be treated by homeopaths by telephone consultation. We can provide you
with several recommendations.
There are other holistic approaches to health care, too many to discuss individually here. We use TTEAM work, Bach Flower Remedies, Therapeutic Touch, Massage Therapy, Herbs, and others, all with success.
Many of the ideas are still considered "unorthodox." Some, like acupuncture, have become " mainstream. "They share the common fact, however, that they do work. They are certainly avenues to explore before resorting to extreme measures such as surgery or cortisone. We would be happy to discuss this subject further with anyone who is interested.
Conventional
Medicine
What about vaccines?
Since Edward Jenner discovered that milkmaids could avoid getting smallpox by being infected with cowpox pus, modern medicine has been creating vaccines in the hopes of preventing and even eliminating certain diseases. However, in recent years, animal guardians and veterinarians are seriously questioning the current protocols for vaccination in animals.
When vaccines were first used, only one vaccination was given at a time. Air and water were more pure and, companion animals ate whole foods left over from human meals. They got abundant exercise and their immune systems were able to handle the exposure to disease in these altered states. However, in keeping with the "more is better" philosophy that has been the source of American genius as well as its downfall, use of vaccinations has gotten out of hand. Young animals, with immature immune systems are now being injected with up to 7 different diseases at one time.
Here is some information about what actually is in the innocent looking vaccines that are injected into our animals:
What's in a shot? (by Catherine O'Driscoll)
These are just some of the ingredients used to make a vaccine:
Ethylene glycol (antifreeze)
Phenol, also known as carbolic
acid - used as a disinfectant, dye
Formaldehyde - a known cancer-causing
substance. According to the
Poison Information Centre
says 'There is no acceptable safe amount of
formaldehyde if being injected
into a living human body. It is a toxic
substance and should be
avoided at all costs.' Up to 90% of the decrease in
infectious disease occurred
before the introduction of vaccines or
antibiotics. In the case
of scarlet fever, the disease has disappeared
despite there never being
any treatment for it.
Aluminum which is associated
with Alzheimers disease and seizures; also
cancer producing in laboratory
mice (it is used as an additive to promote
antibody response )
Thimerosal (used as a mercury disinfectant/ preservative) can result in brain injury and autoimmune disease
Neomycin, Streptomycin (used as antibiotic) have caused allergic reactions in some people
"These vaccines are also grown
and strained through animal or human tissue like
monkey kidney tissue, chicken
embryo, dog kidney tissue, calf serum, human
diploid cells (the dissected
organs of aborted fetuses as in the case of rubella and chickenpox vaccines)
"The problem with animal cells
is that during serial passage of the virus through
the animal cells, is that
animal RNA and DNA can be transferred from one host
to another and undetected
animal viruses may slip past quality control
testing procedures (as in
1955 through 1961 with SV40 which stands for simian
virus #40, meaning the 40th
virus found). This has oncogenic properties (cancer causing.) What other
viruses could be slipping by that we don't know of?" (Catherine O'Driscoll
author of What the Vets Don't Tell You About Vaccines))
In an effort to streamline this section, and because I will provide separate articles on the vaccination controversy, I will not elaborate at length on the history of vaccine and why I do not feel that vaccinating young puppies with combinations of modified live vaccines is a responsible approach to health. Here, however, are eight reasons to consider doing extensive research before asking your new puppy to undergo this procedure:
a) they can cause harm
(i.e. heavy metal poisoning, etc)
b) they provoke allergic
reactions
c) they trigger autoimmune
diseases
d) they cause inheritable
genetic defects
e) they disrupt and
disarm the immune system
f) they can cause
the disease they're designed to prevent, often in chronic form
g) they create all
sorts of inflammatory conditions
h) the body isn't
designed to cope with multiple viruses being injected all at one time
(Catherine O'Driscoll)
Here are some quotations from veterinarians about vaccinating:
Pedro Rivera, DVM, Sturtevant, USA, said: "Vaccinosis is the reaction from common innoculations (vaccines) against the body's immune system and general well-being. These reactions might take months or years to show up and will cause undue harm to future generations. In our practice, we have seen hypothyroidism, chronic yeast, ear infections, immune-mediated diseases and worsening of them, joint maladies, and behavioural problems as secondary reactions to over-vaccination."
Pat Bradley, DVM, Conway, USA, said: "The most common problems I see that are directly related to vaccines on a day to day basis are ear or skin conditions, such as chronic discharges and itching. I also see behaviour problems such as fearfulness or aggression. Often guardians will report that these begin shortly after vaccination, and are exacerbated with every vaccine.
"In a more general and frightening context, I see the overall health and longevity of animals deteriorating. The bodies of most animals have a tremendous capacity to detoxify poisons, but they do have a limit. I think we often exceed that limit and over-whelm the body's immune system function with toxins from vaccines, poor quality foods, insecticides, environmental toxins, etc. This is why we've seen such a dramatic increase in allergies, organ failures, and behaviour problems."
Nancy Scanlon, DVM, Chino
Hills, USA, said: "For those who don't believe in the concept of long-term
vaccinosis, there is plenty of evidence of short term problems. Every time
a dog is vaccinated for Parvo, the number of white blood cells in the circulation
decreases for a while. This means their immune system won't work as well
during that time. Every veterinarian who has been in practice long enough
has seen reactions to vaccines, ranging from lethargy, mild fever, sore neck
to vomiting and sleeping for 24 hours, to total collapse and shock. In cats
we now recognise that vaccinating with too many vaccines in the same place
all the time can cause fibrosarcoma, a nasty cancer. This is officially
recognised by the allopathic veterinary community, and if this isn't a form
of vaccinosis, I don't know what is".
(From Wolf Clan magazine)
What is my recommendation? It is to give your dog every opportunity to be healthy. That is, to provide good, raw food and water, clean air, sunlight, exercise & mental stimulation. Some day, I may be in the position to refuse to sell a puppy unless these principles are followed, but for the time being, I recognize that there are many good puppy homes where people are only now being exposed to these concepts of health. I realize that you may need to evolve in your understanding of this way of thinking. I strongly urge you to avoid injecting your puppy with all foreign chemicals (although I recognize that until the laws are changed, giving the rabies vaccine is unavoidable.)
If you feel you must vaccinate your puppy, here are some guidelines to follow.
1. Realize that the puppy's
immune system isn't mature until around 6 months.
2. Be aware that the inserts
that come with every vaccination specify that they are only to be used in
healthy individuals.
3. Never vaccinate when
you are dealing with a problem, even transient diarrhea, in your dog.
4. Do not vaccinate at the
same time as, or within two weeks of any other procedure such as another
vaccine, worming, anesthetic or other stress.
Tina Aiken, DVM at Smith Ridge Veterinary Center in South Salem, NY, suggests their vaccine protocol:
Puppies are not vaccinated
until they reach 12 weeks.
Puppies are given one shot
for distemper only.
Puppies given one shot for
Parvo two weeks later.
Puppies are titered (see
below) at 15 months for parvo and distemper - boosters are
given then only at the owners
request.
Dogs are titered annually
and only in rare instances ever vaccinated again.
Rabies is given at 6 months.
Thereafter, it is given only to comply with
NY law.
What do I do if my boarding kennel or training class wants proof of immunity?
Many facilities will now accept "titers", that is, results of a blood test showing that your dog has antibodies to distemper and parvo in lieu of a vaccination. Most labs will run these titer tests, but if your vet doesn't have a way to do it, s/he can have the blood sent to Antech Labs, 17672 Cowan Street, Suite A200, Irvine, CA 92614. They can set up an account by calling them at 800-745-4725. The test for distemper/parvo costs about $30 plus whatever your veterinarian charges for taking the blood and preparing it for mailing.
Worms:
Some dogs pick up intestinal worms easily, so it is advisable that you have
your puppy’s stool checked at every routine visit to your veterinarian.
It is possible for a dog to have a negative fecal exam, but still have
worms: for one of several reasons, the adult worm has simply not produced
eggs that can be detected. The stress of changing homes can alter a pup’s
system so that previously dormant worms will start producing eggs. We ask
that you have your own veterinarian check your puppy within three days of
purchase. It is important that you take a fecal specimen with you on this
visit even if the puppy has had a negative exam or has been wormed by us
prior to purchase.
Bloat
Bloat is a lay term for gastric torsion, gastric dilatation or volvulus.
No matter what you call it, it is a SERIOUS medical emergency. Large, deep
chested breeds including the Great Dane are prone to this disease. Much conflicting
research has been done and to date the results are inconclusive. It would
appear that bloat is caused by air trapped in the stomach. For some reason,
the air cannot escape and the stomach blows up like a balloon. The distended
stomach exerts considerable pressure on other internal organs and causes
shock. The dog may become extremely restless and pace or try to lie down
only to get up again. He may try to drink water and then vomit it; he may
vomit a white foam. Unfortunately, he may also not exhibit any of these signs,
or not to a degree that you realize them for what they are. Experts do not
agree on what causes bloat, so it is difficult to recommend ways to prevent
it. Some traditional suggestions include: keeping your dog quiet for at least
an hour following a meal, feeding two or three smaller meals per day rather
than one large one (and NEVER feed more than five cups volume of dog food
at one time) and allowing only small amounts of water after exercise.
Even with precautions, bloat sometimes occurs. The first thing to do is to notify your veterinarian. This is why it is important to have a veterinarian who is familiar with large breeds. Even if you have such a person available, it is sometimes necessary to insist that you have an emergency. While one person is locating your doctor, another should be administering liquid Di-Gel or other simethicone containing product to the dog. This medication should be on hand at all times as it could make a life and death difference to your dog. If you suspect bloat, give two or three ounces, walk the dog around and give several more. This may be repeated until several bottles of medication are used. It cannot hurt to give too much, especially in this situation. Burping and/or flatus are the results of successful therapy. We have found that a liquid medication is easiest to give if first put into a baster. Put the tip of the baster into the side of the dog’s mouth, hold the head up (pointing at about a 10 o'clock angle) and slowly squeeze the liquid in, allowing the dog to swallow by himself. Do not squirt it down his throat, but into the pocket of the mouth. It may help to make the dog sit with his back to a corner so he cannot back up. With an uncooperative dog, two people may be needed. It also is guaranteed to be messy, so choose the kitchen or outside.
There
are other steps that the experts have suggested which will not be discussed
here. You should, at this point, be on the way to a sympathetic and competent
veterinarian, but if you have initiated simethicone therapy immediately,
you will be ahead. (Note to Whippet owners: amounts mentioned in this section
are geared towards Great Danes, scale down proportions if you to use
this section.)
Heartworms:
HI have very mixed feelings about this topic. We can talk more about
it at length if you would like. Karen Komisar, DVM, a holistic Massachusetts
veterinarian says that ivermectin works 8 weeks retroactively. Therefore,
she suggests giving the first dose on 1 June. This will kill any circulating
larva picked up from April to June. After that, give a dose every 6 weeks
until the first frost. This cuts down the delivery of this toxic drug from
monthly to only 3-4 per year.
However, having passed on the above to you, I would like to quote from Martin Goldstein's book, The Nature of Animal Healing (see Suggested Reading)
"Only a small percentage of
dogs who get heartworm die of it, especially
if they are routinely tested
twice yearly for early detection. Even in
untreated dogs, after a
period of uncomfortable symptoms, the adult
worms die. The microfilaria
do not grow into adult worms on their own.
To reach the next stage
in their life cycle, they have to be sucked back
out of the body by another
mosquito and go through other stages of their
maturation process within
the mosquito. Only when the mosquito alights
again on a dog and bites
it can the microfilaria reenter the bloodstream
with the ability to grow
into adults. The chances of a
microfilaria-infected mosquito
biting your dog the first time are slim.
Of it happening to the same
dog twice? Very slim. And after two decades
of pervasive administration
of heartworm pills in the US, the chances of
your dog contracting heartworm
in most parts of this country even a
first time are slimmer still.
Early in my career, I saw and treated
hundreds of cases of heartworm
disease, most with routine medication,
yet witnessed only three
deaths (the last was in 1979). By comparison,
we're seeing cancer kill
dogs on a daily basis. To my mind, the
likelihood that toxicity
from heartworm pills is contributing to the
tremendous amount of immune
suppression now occurring, especially in
cases of liver disease and
cancer, is far greater and more immediate
than the threat of disease
they're meant to prevent."
I leave it up to you to decide how to handle the heartworm dilemma.
These are two symptoms which can be upsetting. They happen sometimes for no apparent reason. I hesitate to make a blanket statement regarding these problems because both can be symptoms of something severe. You do have to use common sense, and often, notifying your veterinarian is the correct procedure. However, if an episode or two should occur in the middle of the night, it is good to know that Di-Gel can settle an upset stomach and Kaopectate can be used for diarrhea. Base your dose on the dog’s weight- a child’s dose for a small puppy, adult dose for a larger, heavier dog. Herbal medicine and homeopathy also have treatments for these problems should you be inclined to follow this route. Slippery Elm powder in the food is especially good for diarrhea.
Diarrhea can be caused by a sudden change in diet in dogs who are not eating a varied BARF diet. BARF dogs generally have all the enzymes they need to digest a wide array of foods.
The suggested protocol for changing commercial foods is to add a small amount of the new while slowly eliminating the old food. It should take about a week to properly change from one food to another. A couple of episodes of vomiting and /or diarrhea may not be significant, but don’t let it continue more than 24-48 hours without professional help as both symptoms can lead to dehydration. A stool check is always in order when diarrhea develops.
Cropped
ears must be taped consistently to be trained to stand correctly. They should
be left taped for up to two weeks depending on the weather and individual
circumstances. When the tape has been removed, theears should be re-taped
as soon as the ears begin to fall. Always be sure that air can get down
into the ear
canals
and keep a close watch on the ears to make sure no problems develop, especially
in hot weather. We would like to tape your puppy's ears for you for at least
the first few times. Please call us when the ears begin to fall to schedule
an appointment .
A "
miracle" item for removing the tape without tearing out the hair is a surgical
adhesive remover available in certain drug stores. One brand name is " Unisolve"
manufactured by United Surgical. Medi-Sol makes a non-toxic, but oily adhesive
remover. Call them at 602-497-8822. If adhesive remover is unobtainable,
ether
(comes in spray cans in automotive stores as engine starter) and nail polish
remover will work also. Precautions should be observed.
A puppy starts teething at about 31/2 months. At this time, ears that have been standing nicely may fall or weaken. Don't worry- just resume taping.
1.collar
Great Dane:
We prefer a nylon collar rather than a chain, but a slip collar will be
needed when the dog is on a leash. A Great Dane cannot be controlled by a
flat buckled collar. We like a "three ring" nylon collar which is both a training
collar for control and a regular collar depending on how it is snapped. NEVER
leave the collar in the live ring position when the dog is not under direct
supervision, and take the collar off entirely when the dog is home alone
or in a crate.
Whippet:
There are several appropriate collars for a Whippet. However, attention
must be paid to the fact that Whippets have narrow heads and can wiggle out
of most collars. A loose Whippet can be either a mile away in a flash or a
victim of an accident in the same time frame, It is critical to know that
your dog cannot slip out of his collar. Many Whippet people use a martingale
type collar on their dogs. There are also special "hound" collars. Look in
the Resource section for special Whippet equipment sources.
2.six foot leather training lead
3.Resco brand guillotine nail clippers (optional - toenail grinder)
4.rubber curry brush
5.Raw beef femur (from butcher) bones for chewing, and soft toys
6.a soft bed
Great Dane:
4" foam rubber covered with a cloth "pillowcase" works well once the pup
is past chewing
Whippet:
Whippets generally prefer your furniture, but they also like cuddly
beds where they can burrow and snuggle.
7.feeding pan and water bucket ~ stainless steel only
8.crate
One of the easiest jobs in caring for a Great Dane or a Whippet is grooming. Brushing isn't really necessary except during shedding season. You can use a hound glove to remove hair as it falls out. Shampooing is necessary if your pup gets into something particularly messy, or before a show to make that white dazzle. Murphy's Oil Soap from the grocery store is our shampoo of preference. Danes feet should be tight and "cat like." Whippets should have "cat-like" or "hare-like" feet, Nails, which are allowed to strike the floor, can cause permanent damage to the feet. Routinely cutting the toenails once a week, or whenever you can hear them on a bare floor will take care of this problem. The Resco nail clippers do an adequate job, but for a rounded, smooth, more professional appearance, ask us about a nail grinder.
Chewing on safe toys is good exercise for your puppy’s jaws and will help save your furniture, but will not be very useful in keeping your dog’s teeth clean. The amount of plaque which develops depends on the mineral content of your dog’s saliva and your dog's diet. Dogs eating BARF have their teeth cleaned by the raw meaty bones, the way Mother Nature intended.
If your dog has that yellow plaque buildup which will eventually harden into tartar, you must take the responsibility of cleaning them. Dogs are generally not bothered by cavities, but do get gum disease called gingivitis if the tartar is neglected. When the soft yellow plaque first appears, it is easy to remove with the use of a soft toothbrush dipped in water. If you must use a dentifrice, use something non-toxic. We suggest using MicroBrite from Royal Bodycare. Ask us how to get this. Digestive enzymes, which can be bought at a health food store, in capsule form, are often effective, too.
Ears should checked on a weekly basis, but rarely need any action. If you should need to clean the ears, or if your Whippet does a lot of swimming, you can use Swimmer's Ear Solution. To make this, combine 3 parts 70% rubbing alcohol with 1 part white vinegar. Saturate a cotton ball with the solution, then squeeze the contents into the ear. Rub the base of the ear with your fingers, then let the pup shake his head. Finally, wipe the ear with the cotton to remove any wax or dirt the puppy has shaken loose.
Another
suggestion is to run your hands all over the dog during each weekly grooming
looking for anything unusual. This way, if you find anything (lumps, bumps,
cuts, etc.) it can be no more than one week old. Early treatment is usually
the key to easy cure.
A puppy has an adult brain capacity from the age of 8 weeks and proper training starting at this time can be a very positive step towards the creation of a happy family life. All training classes are not created equal. Damage can be done by improper training techniques. Ask us for information regarding obedience training classes. It is a good idea to go to watch obedience classes before you enroll. Talk to the instructor regarding training philosophy and talk to students who seem to have happy, working dogs. Ask around and get several opinions before you commit yourself.
Training for "house manners" can begin as soon as your puppy is acclimated to his new surroundings. Housetraining, the meaning of the words "Leave it ", "Take It" and walking on a lead can are high on the "house manners" list.
We highly recommend only positive training techniques, particularly "clicker" training. There is an excellent book in the suggested reading section of this pamphlet.
Attached to this pamphlet is an article entitled "The Crate". In this article are detailed directions regarding housetraining your puppy. If you follow this procedure, your puppy should be clean in the house in a very short time.
The crate is a wonderful and essential piece of equipment, which makes raising a puppy an easy experience. Consider the crate as your puppy’s crib: his own bed, a sanctuary where he knows he belongs and is secure. A person planning to have a baby wouldn’t resist using a crib because the baby couldn’t get out! As a crib or playpen is not cruel to an infant, neither is a crate cruel to a dog. As a matter of fact, pups like crates because they are similar to the "den" the ancestral wolf mother provided in the wild.
A crate has many values. From your standpoint, the puppy is safe when you’re not home (not eating electrical cords) and your home is safe from him. Those people who buy a new sofa every year to replace the chewed one will agree that a crate pays for itself in no time. A crate acts as a safe, familiar place when you are visiting, be it relatives who are not sure about your new acquisition, or the motel owner who will not allow you to stay without a crate. It also performs the function of a lifesaving "seatbelt" while your dog is riding in a car.
It is your dog’s right to have a crate as much as it is his right to have his own food dish and it is priceless as an aid to overcoming any differences of opinion you and your puppy may have while he is growing.
Both Great Danes and Whippets are short-haired breeds, therefore he suffers from extremes of temperature. He is primarily a house-dog and should be protected from heat, cold, rain, and other weather as you would protect yourself.
A dog’s normal temperature is between 100-102 F. I consider 100.5 to be normal in my dogs. In stressfull circumstances, such as at the veterinarian's, the temperature may run a degree or so higher.
Young pups are subject to hiccups - often several times a day. This is normal and no cause for concern.
A puppy needs exercise, but it should be on his own terms. There should be no forced exercise until the puppy isa year old for a Whippet and two years old for a Great Dane.
It is important for your dog to learn to ride in a car and to meet strangers. Take him with you whenever you can. You never know when you may want your dog to be adaptable and this can only come if he has "been around" and has confidence in himself.
Never leave your dog in a closed car or even in a partially closed car when the temperature is above 75. High humidity makes the situation worse. Heat prostration and death can occur within minutes. If your dog is going to have to be left in a hot car, leave him at home.
Our responsibility does not end with the sale of this puppy. We are here to help you to raise him to be a mature dog, fulfilling the potential he was bred to have. Further, to help us to plan future breedings, we may like to visit and photograph your dog from time to time. Periodically, there may also be questionnaires that we would appreciate having you complete and return to us. We also wish you would send us an update about your puppy and a photo on an annual basis. We look forward to hearing from you and your puppy every December holiday season for the life of your dog. We hope that by watching your puppy and his littermates grow, we will be better equipped to aim our breeding program toward the production of better Whippets.
(* means suggest adding to your home library)
General
*Whippets:
A Complete Pet Owner's Manual, C. Caroline Coile, PhD, Barron's, 1998
This
is the Great Dane, Ernest H. Hart, TFH Publications,1967.
*The
Holistic Puppy, Diane Stein, Crossing Press, 1998
How
to Raise a Puppy You Can Live With, Rutherford & Neil
The
Right Doq for You, Daniel F. Tortora, Simon & Schuster, NY,1980.
Behavior
Problems in Dogs, William Campbell, American Veterinary Pub, 1975
Doq
Problems, Carol Benjamin, Doubleday,1981
Training
*Don't
Shoot the Dog, Karen Pryor, Bantam Books, 1985
*Clicker
Training for Obedience, Morgan Spector, Sunshine Books, 1999
Health
*Care
of the Racing Greyhound, Blythe, Gannon & Craig, American Greyhound
Council 1994
*Homeopathic
Care for Cats & Dogs, Don Hamilton, DVM, North Atlantic Books, 1999
*Natural
Health for Dogs and Cats, Richard H.Pitcairn, DVM & Susan Hubble Pitcairn,
Rodale Press, PA 1995
Four
Paws Five Directions, Cheryl Schwartz, DVM, Celestial Arts, 1996
The
Nature of Animal Healing, Martin Goldstein, DVM, Alfred Knopf Pub, 1999
How
to Have a Healthier Dog, Wendell O. Belfield, DVM & Martin Zucker,
, 1981
Keep
Your Pet Healthy the Natural Way Pat Lazarus, Bobs-Merrill Co., NY, 1983.
*The
Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, Volhard & Brown, Howell Book House,
2000
*Dog
Owner’s Home Veterinarv Handbook, Carlson & Griffin, Howell Book House,1980.
The
Natural Remedy Book for Dogs & Cats, Diane Stein, The Crossing Press,
1994
Dr.
Michael Fox’s Massage Program for Cats & Dogs, Michael W. Fox, MRCVS,
Newmarket Press,1981
Nutrition
*Work Wonders, FeedYour Dog Raw Meaty Bones
by Tom Lonsdale
*The Wolf's Natural Diet - a Feeding Guide for Your Dog by Mogens
Eliasen
*Raw Meaty Bones Promote Health by Tom Lonsdale
Grow
Your Pups with Bones, Ian Billinghurst, B.V.Sc.(Hons),B.Sc.Agr.,Dip Ed., 1998
Reigning
Cats & Dogs, Pat McKay, Oscar Publications, 1992
The
Ultimate Diet, Kymythy Schultze, Affenbar Ink, 1998
Other
Resources
On Line
Whippet Resource Center http://whippet.org/
American Whippet Club http://www.breedclub.org/AWC.htm
Whippets: Born to Run http://www.sonic.net/~whippet/
Whippet Watch Magazine whippetwatch@yahoo.com
Whippets in art and history http://www.whippet.com/whippetart.html
Whippet books http://www.planetpets.simplenet.com/bookwhip.htm
There is a no local affiliate of the American Whippet Club in this area,
but there is a lure coursing club and a racing club.
Suppliers
HOUND TOGS
1325 Howard Avenue PMB 510
Burlingame, CA 94010
Phone & Fax : (650) 343-2774
http://www.houndtogs.com/
Email : info@houndtogs.com
LoneWolf Dogwear
1201 N. Spring St.
New Ulm, Minnesota
56073-1131
507-359-9519
1-800-496-5375
http://lonewolfdogwear.com/
lonewolf@lonewolfdogwear.com
Karen's Kollars
1095 NW Firwood Blvd
Issaquah, WA 98027
425-392-9114
greyhnds@halcyon.com
http://www.halcyon.com/greyhnds/collars/collars.html
Supplement Sources
Cell Tech (SBGA) 800-800-1300 #1029001
Juice Plus 800-347-5947 # 27455
Microhydrin 800-722-0444 #310987
Nature's Farmacy 800-733-4981
The Crate
YOUR DOG’S HOME WITHIN A HOME
FOR HOUSEBREAKING
FOR SLEEPING
FOR TRAVELING
FOR HIS (and your) SAFETY WHEN YOU ARE AWAY FROM HOME
FOR A CONVALESCENT DOG WHOSE ACTIVITIES MUST BE RESTRICTED
If your dog has been crate-trained before you bring him home, just continue
with the schedule for housebreaking as suggested below.
If you are initially introducing a puppy or older dog to a crate,
follow these instructions first.
The crate should be just large enough for your dog
to be able to stand, turn around, and lie down in it. You can buy a full-sized
crate for a young puppy, but make sure to partition it so that he just
fits it, and move the partitions back as he grows.
Place the crate where your dog will see and be part
of your family’s activities. Place a favorite toy inside the crate. Line
the bottom with newspapers or indoor-outdoor carpeting. Introduce
your dog to its crate gradually, for short periods several times a day. If
your dog howls and barks when he is introduced to his crate, do NOT remove
him until he is quiet for a short period. Then, release and PRAISE. All meals
and snacks should be served to your dog only while he is in his crate. Gradually
lengthen the time he remains in his crate. Soon he will quietly sleep there
every night and while you are away from home.
NEVER USE YOUR CRATE AS PUNISHMENT
REMOVE ALL COLLARS FROM YOUR DOG BEFORE PLACING HIM IN HIS CRATE
HOUSEBREAKING SCHEDULE
• MORNING: Your puppy has slept in his crate all night. Get dressed.
PICK puppy up and CARRY him outside to where he will relieve himself. Give
a lot of praise as soon as he has performed, then CARRY him inside IMMEDIATELY.
He can run free in the kitchen while you are preparing breakfast. After
you have eaten, feed him. CARRY him outside again. Praise him for his accomplishments,
and carry him inside right away. Don’t use this time for playing. Put him
inside his crate to nap while you are busy.
• NOONTIME: CARRY your puppy outside from his crate to the same
spot he had used in the morning. Praise for his accomplishments. Carry him
inside and allow him playtime in the kitchen while you have lunch. If he
is eating 3 meals a day, you can feed him at this time. Repeat the morning
schedule. Remember to restrict his freedom to one room and his playtime to
1 to 2 hours.
• EVENING: Repeat the morning schedule. Let the puppy play in the kitchen
while you prepare dinner. After his dinner and playtime, again place him
in the crate for a nap. Carry him outside to relieve himself at about 8:00
p.m. and once again before you go to bed.
Remember to use the same word/phrase whenever you
take your pup out to relieve himself. Restricting him to his crate (which
he will want to keep clean) and praising him for relieving himself in the
right place will teach him by association and repetition. Gradually allow
his free periods to be for a longer period of time. If you notice him sniffing
and circling during one of his free periods, CARRY HIM OUTSIDE IMMEDIATELY.
If he makes a mistake occasionally, correct him only if you catch him in
the act. Say “stop it,” and carry him outside to his spot. Praise
him as soon as he relieves himself where he is supposed to..
IF YOU ARE HAVING PROBLEMS HOUSETRAINING, HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FOLLOWING?
Does your pup have worms? Take a stool sample to your
vet. Your pup must be in good health to form regular habits.
Have you restricted his intake of water and food?
Offer your dog water after his meals, and after play. During the initial
training period, no food or water should be offered after the evening meal.
Use this schedule for 2 weeks. Gradually allow your pup more freedom, always
being ready to go back to the more rigid schedule if the pup regresses.
Don’t lose your sense of humor.
Your pup will be a housetrained adult very soon.
What A Puppy is Not
Reprinted from Better Homes & Gardens
February 1973
A puppy is one of the most appealing creatures on earth.
He’s the embodiment of exuberance, humor, and affection. But there are
a great many things that a puppy is not, and these negative aspects deserve
some thought before you bring a puppy home.
A puppy is not a toy to be enjoyed while he is a novelty, then set aside
in favor of a new diversion.
He is a Living thing whose physical demands must be met constantly for
as long as he lives.
A young puppy needs more sleep than a human infant, even though your
children may be in the mood to play with him.
He needs to be fed regularly and often even though his meals may conflict
with family plans.
A young puppy is breakable.
Very young children can inflict unintended tortures on a puppy, especially
one of the small or fine-boned breeds. And his broken leg is much harder
to fix than the broken wheel of a toy truck.
A puppy is not a teaching aid guaranteed to instill a sense of responsibility
in children.
If a child loves his dog, he will probably enjoy brushing him, taking
him for walks, filling his water dish, and other tasks. A sense of responsibility
may well grow out of the relationship, but it is unfair to the animal to
put his entire well-being into the hands of children.
Even the most dog-loving youngsters tire of daily chores, and parents
who try to force the regimen will be asking for friction. Unfortunately,
it is the puppy who is the loser in this battle. Responsibility lessons are
better left to household tasks that don’t involve a pet. The essentials
of feeding, housebreaking, and discipline training will fall to an adult
member of the household. Youngsters can help with the less essential jobs
of grooming and walking.
Dogs and children do give each other something very valuable - time and
attention that adults are often too busy to offer in sufficient quantities.
This is the main function of a child-dog partnership.
A puppy is not cheap.
Whether you pay a nominal fee at the city humane shelter or what seems
to be a king’s ransom for a really special pup, the money paid to make
the pet yours is a mere drop in the bucket compared to what it will cost
to keep him.
There will be veterinary bills to pay for both emergencies and regular
vaccinations and checkups. There will be city and county licenses to buy.
And there are legal aspects of dog ownership you may never have considered
- not just personal injury claims, but replacement of shrubbery or grass
or neighborhood children’s clothing torn in play. And there’s the wear and
tear on your furniture and carpet.
A puppy is not a spur-of-the-moment purchase, or at least he shouldn’t
be.
The wrong dog can be an unending nuisance to a household - and it’s much
easier to acquire a pup than it is to get rid of a grown dog who didn’t
work out. Animal shelters are bulging with dogs who were acquired for the
wrong reasons, or without sufficient investigation.
If your family has decided to buy a dog, by all means take the time to
learn about the breed you have in mind. Every breed has characteristics
of temperament, and some of these traits may not fit in with your life-style.
Some breeds are prone to physical problems such as hip dysplasia, ear cankers,
and eye anomalies. If you are aware of these problems, you can do a more
intelligent job of selecting your puppy.
Many towns have kennel clubs whose members are reputable, knowledgeable,
and generally helpful. Most breeders will be glad to answer your questions
and to help you locate the pup you want. A veterinarian can put you in
touch with the nearest kennel club.
If you take the time to do some investigating before you buy, you will
know what the going prices are for your breed. Pet shops are often able
to sell pups of very low quality for show-dog prices simply because few
buyers bother to check.
Many puppies are bought impetuously because they looked cute in the pet
shop window; because it was a nice day for a drive in the country and there
was a kennel with a “Visitors Welcome” sign; or because another family pet
had just died. Pups bought without being genuinely wanted - and planned for
- too often end up at the animal shelter.
A puppy is not a gift unless the giver is certain that this particular
pup will be wanted.
Not only now but a year from now, ten years from now. And even then the
puppy should be selected by his new owner rather than by someone else. The
pup that appeals to one might very well not appeal to the other. It’s a matter
of chemistry, like love at first sight.
A puppy is not self-cleaning.
There will be puddles on rugs, vomiting occasionally, dog hair on clothing
and furniture. There may be worms to be dealt with. If these prospects
are intolerable to the housekeeper of the family, then perhaps the pleasures
of owning a puppy will be overshadowed by the tensions it will cause.
Long-haired breeds need to be groomed - not only while the pup is small
and new but also week in and week out, for years. The heavy, silky coats
of breeds such as Cocker Spaniels. Yorkshire Terriers, and Lhasa Apsos become
matted in a very short time, especially in areas of friction, such as legs
and flanks. If the dog’s coat isn’t combed thoroughly and frequently, it
becomes unsightly and uncomfortable. The matts pull and irritate and they
make excellent hiding places for fleas and skin disorders.
A puppy is not an adult dog.
He has neither the physical nor the mental ability to perform as an adult
dog would. He cannot go for long periods of time without relieving himself.
He cannot tolerate harsh training methods, nor can he differentiate between
what is chewable and what isn’t. Nor will he make any distinction between
food and objects that hurt if he swallows them. He will try the patience
of the most devout dog lover in the household, and at times he may drive
everyone mad. If he is very young, he will cry during his first night or
two in his new home. He will require patience and understanding from everyone
in the family.
A puppy is not a puppy for long. Before you succumb to the charms of
a clumsy St. Bernard pup, or a sad-happy hound, or a limpid-eyed Cocker,
be very sure that you want not only the puppy he is now, but also the gangly,
unattractive adolescent he is about to become, and the adult dog who may
fall short of what you hoped he would be.
If you’ve faced all the negative aspects of puppy ownership and still
want him, chances are good that your new dog will be one of the lucky ones
who finds a permanent happy home. And you will enjoy the rewards of planned-parenthood,
dog ownership - rewards which will far overshadow the drawbacks.