Instructions for Installing
Servotronic-Relay-Bypass-While-in-Tiptronic
Modification
I Disclaimer
The following instructions are based on installing this mod in a 2001 A6 2.7T. As such, the servotronic relay is relay number 605 and is hereinafter referred to simply as “605” or the “605 relay”. In addition, the user of these instructions undertakes any modifications to their car completely and entirely at their own risk. Any incidental or consequential damage to persons or property as a result of this modification or its installation is the sole responsibility of the installer.
In addition, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED that any DIYer disconnect the car's battery before doing ANY work on the electrical system of the car. This mod requires work on the electrical system of the car. (See what I'm getting at, here?) That being said, I never disconnected the battery while making this mod. I did, however, cause a short which, fortunately, only damaged my new circuit. Your mileage may vary. I repeat: Any incidental or consequential damage to persons or property as a result of this modification or its installation is the sole responsibility of the installer.
II What you get
(1) bypass circuit and relay assembly (aka the octopus)
(3) patch wires with blue quick disconnect connectors (2 short [black], one male and one female; one long [green, unless I run out of green wire])
(3) in-line tap connectors
(6) assorted cable ties
III ‘Tapping’ Tiptronic signal wire
A. Removing lower dash cover
a. Lower steering column as far as it will go
b. Pull the dash trim piece that passes over the steering column straight out and set it aside
c. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two hex bolts through the two plastic tabs holding up the dash cover
d. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two hex bolts holding the lower dash cover in place (they’re in brackets under the dash)
e. Open the fuse panel cover and remove the last 10mm bolt holding the dash cover in place
f. Return to the two plastic tabs and, while pushing up on the lower dash panel, pull the left tab out and unhook it, allowing the dash panel to be lowered carefully
g. While still supporting the dash cover, grasp the top and bottom of the OBDC (On Board Diagnostics Connector) and pull it from the dash panel
h. Pull off the two electrical connectors for the courtesy light (notice which connector goes where)
i. Pull the dash cover down and out and set the lower dash panel aside where it will not be damaged
B. Removing tranny trim cover
a. Turn car ON and move shift lever to '3'
b. Turn car off
c. Using a non-marring tool (or your fingers, if you’re not worried about breaking a nail), gently pry up the back edge of the wood trim around the shift lever
d. Lift up the back of the trim and slide it back and up (it may be easier if you open the ash tray) ** NOTE** There are two long plastic tabs on the front edge of this trim piece, so don't lift up too much, too early. Lift the back edge as little as necessary to clear the shift bezel until you get the front edge free.
e. Remove the trim piece and set it aside
C. Loosening tranny tunnel side cover
a. On the side of the tranny tunnel near the accelerator, there is a small plug – remove it
b. Remove the nut, allowing the side trim piece to be pulled out
D. Exposing and tapping green/violet wire
a. Beneath the tranny wood trim piece you removed, and near the driver’s seat, there is a wire bundle wrapped in gooey cloth electrical tape. The bundle comes out of a connector on the underside of the shift bezel and heads toward the dash. Cut the tape carefully and expose about an inch or so of the wire bundle.
b. Find the green and violet (purple) wire and pull it away from the rest of the bundle, enough so you can work on it. (Warning! The following image depicts graphic, misguided wiring butchery! Viewer discretion is advised! Please do NOT do this to YOUR wiring!)
c. Work the open side of one of the wire taps onto this wire. ** NOTE ** you may find it easier to do this if you clean any residual goo from the electrical tape off the wire (with alcohol or ???) and possibly even add a little lubricant. Once fully on the wire, the wire tap should slide up and down the wire easily. That’s how you’ll know it’s all the way on.
d. Thread the end of the long wire with the blue connector behind the tranny tunnel side piece so that it can be inserted into the other side of the wire tap. Eventually, you will want this wire to go up and over the side panel on the tunnel and up under the dash. This shouldn’t be too hard with the side panel loosened as directed. You might want to use a stiff wire or coat hanger with a hook on the end to pull the wire through. (It might be easier to push it through from the shifter side.)
e. Insert the end of the long wire into the wire tap as far as it will go and then squeeze the wire tap shut with a pair of pliers (the green disk should be pressed into the clear piece, almost flush). This is a one-use tap, so if you don’t get it right, you’ll need to find some other way to tap into the violet/green wire!
f. Work the wire up and over the top of the tunnel side cover, replace the nut, cover/plug, and the trim piece around the shift lever.
g. Connect the blue connector on the end of this wire to the green wire coming from the octopus.
** NOTE ** When making all of the following wiring connections, make sure all wires are routed OVER the steering shaft. This will allow you to secure the octopus and wires to points above the steering shaft, eliminating any chance of wire abrasion or interference with the steering.
IV Patching Servotronic power lead
A. Mark the servotronic relay so that you know what orientation is needed to re-insert it in the relay panel.
B. Make a note or mark the socket the servotronic relay is in
C. Remove the servotronic relay
D. Notice the two black tabs above and below the relay socket
E. Press those tabs outward (top tab up; bottom tab down) while pushing the relay socket out the back of the relay panel (This will give a little more slack on the wires in back which you will need for the next steps)
F. Position yourself on your back with your head under the dash. Get comfortable and have the following items within easy reach: the two short wires with connectors, the two remaining wire tap connectors, wire cutters, pliers, small scissors, and a light (if necessary).
G. Be prepared to take your time! Working conditions are very tight behind the relay panel and patience will be key. You are likely to be frustrated, but this is all very doable. Ommmmmmm…….
H. Locate the relay socket you just pushed out and the wiring harness leading from it.
I. If necessary, use the scissors to cut the gooey cloth electrical tape and expose as much of the black wire as you can. You might be able to find a point at which the wire harness is attached with a cable tie to something else. Feel free to cut the cable tie to give yourself more slack. You can also pull pretty hard on the wiring harness (by HAND; don’t use excessive force or tools!!) to get yourself a little more. You’ll probably want to free up about 1 1/2” – 2” of wire, if possible.
J. Work the two remaining wire taps onto the black wire coming from the servotronic relay socket. ** NOTE ** Since you will eventually be cutting this wire between the two taps, you may prefer to cut the wire now. While this will make it easier to get the taps ONTO the wire (since you can now just slide them on the end), it makes it a little harder to insert the other wire and crimp the tap, since the free end of the wire will offer no resistance to work against. ** WARNING! ** If you cut the wire now, BE SURE NOT TO CUT THE END TOWARD THE SOCKET TOO SHORT!! Ideally, you want the tap closest to the socket no closer than 1” to allow clearance of the relay panel and to minimize interference with other wires.
K. Connect the two short wires with blue connectors to the black wire on the 605 relay socket using the two remaining wire taps.
L. Once both wires are connected and the taps are in place and crimped, cut the black wire from the relay socket (the wire that came with the car; NOT the one you just installed!) between the two taps. It should look something like this...
M. Connect the yellow and blue wires from the new relay to these newly installed wires using the connectors provided.
N. Re-insert the relay socket from the back of the relay panel (the socket is ‘keyed’, and will only go back in the correct way.
O. Reinstall the servotronic relay.
V Connecting power and ground
A. On the bottom of the relay panel there are a few 10mm nuts holding a number of ‘hot’ leads to the relay panel. Identify the nut with the most room on the stud below the nut and loosen this nut.
B. Slide the forked connector on the RED lead onto the stud and tighten the nut.
** NOTE ** I routed the red wire below one relay, up between two, and then over the top of another so that the red and black wires ended up near each other near the grounding stud (see next step).
C. Locate the stud which secures the relay panel to the frame almost directly to the right of the servotronic relay. This is my choice for a grounding location.
D. Loosen the nut on this stud, slide the connector on the BLACK lead under the washer and nut and tighten the nut.
VI Test drive
A. Put the car back into Park.
B. Start the engine
C. Turn the wheel and notice the resistance
D. Move the shift lever to Tip mode and see if you can feel the difference
E. Flip back and forth from ‘D’ to Tip and back while turning the wheel from side to side.
**WARNING!** Before taking this Frankenstein on the street, be sure there are no wires or pieces parts dangling below the dash that could tangle with your feet or the controls of the car (pedals, steering) while driving!!! (See 'Reassembly' for some tips.)
F. If all seems OK, take the car for a short drive. BE VERY CAREFUL!! You have just tinkered with the steering system of an expensive automobile and you’re now in it! Take a slow drive around the block to make sure all is OK.
G. If everything seems good (and it should), feel free to take the car to that stretch of road you installed this mod for and see what you think.
VII Reassembly
A. Assuming the test drive was uneventful and you’re ready to put everything back together, go under the dash (if you haven’t already) and secure any loose and/or dangling pieces or wires to any fixed point under the dash. The only danger spots seem to be the steering shaft (risk of abrasion to wires or snagging, affecting steering) and what appear to be two heating coils at the base of the steering column (risk of melting insulation, leading to shorts or other problems). I don’t believe there are any other heating sources or moving pieces likely to cause problems, so just stay away from these and you should be fine. This is how mine looks with various pieces secured with the included cable ties.
B. Reinstall the dash panel.
a. There are two plastic tabs on the back of the dash panel that slide into ‘grabbers’ on the floor above the pedals (they keep the back of the dash panel from drooping down on your feet). Slide the tabs in the grabbers first.
b. While holding up the front end of the panel with your right hand, reattach the two leads for the courtesy light, remembering which went where when you disconnected.
** NOTE ** If you’ve had the car door open for a while, the courtesy light may not light. To test, close the door and reopen the door to make sure the light is working properly before putting all the bolts in place. If it doesn’t work, verify that the bulb is properly seated and that the filament is intact.
c. Snap the OBDC back into its socket.
d. Raise the front edge of the dash panel up and hook the left plastic tab over its mounting point next to the steering column.
** NOTE ** Be sure to rehook the left plastic tab (next to the steering column) over its mount point. This will hold up the dash panel while you insert the attaching bolts and tighten them.
e. Install the two bolts on either side of the steering column and press the panel up firmly as you tighten (this will minimize the panel gap).
**NOTE** If you pushed the tabs all the way into the grabbers (step a., above), the front edge of the cover may not easily meet the bottom of the dash trim and will leave a gap. At this point, you should be able to pull the lower panel out/forward until the gap is eliminated and without pulling the tabs all the way out of the grabbers.
f. Reinstall the cover for those two bolts.
g. Install the two bolts on the underside of the panel. You will most likely need to press the panel up and forward in order to get the screws started.
h. Reinstall the screw through the fuse panel. A magnetic socket driver or wrench is indispensable, here, as this screw tends to fall out of the socket and hide in the bowels of the dash. (There’s probably no harm in leaving it out completely if you can’t get it in, but if you drop it into the dash, you MUST retrieve it. The bolt is electricity-friendly and there's a lot of electricity in the dash just DYING to visit places it's not supposed to!)
i. Reinstall the fuse panel cover.
VIII If you change your mind…
A. Disconnect the red and black leads (power and ground).
B. Disconnect wires from the ‘octopus’ going to the two wires tapped into the power lead (black wire) on the back of the servotronic relay socket
C. Connect the two wires tapped into the servotronic power lead together to restore ‘default’ configuration to servotronic relay.
D. You need to decide what to do with the lead from the violet/green wire. You should be fine just disconnecting the blue connectors and letting the wire hang loose. Just in case you decide later to reinstall this mod...
