For more colorful Lemko maps, see http://www.rollintl.com/roll/galicia.htm
The following photos are for educational purposes and not for profit (Click to enlarge photos):
|Typical Lemko house with grass roof. This photo is from Shevchenko Grove Museum in the Lemko sector from Zaricheve village in Zakarpatski oblast.|
Lorne Carpenter's acquaintance from Ukraine is probably "right on", and it could be from the area of Mosty city, which is due south of Sokal' (Sokalshchyna ethno-area) and half-way on main road to City of L'viv. I have seen two similar shirts with such heavily and multicolor-filled geometrically embroidered sleeves. Both were definitely said to be from the general area of Sokalshchyna. Those sleeves had the effect of stain-glass windows! and this old hand-colored photo strongly resembles them. If you have the Ukr'n Museum of NYC's catalog from the exhibit of pani Kashubins'ka's collection from Uhriniv of the Sokal' area, you can see a few items in it that could help you see how much alike they, and this costume and its parts, appear. This is also very near the area known as "Pidliashshya" (or Podliashia (sp?)), just west of what is called "Polesia" ("Polissia", in Ukr'n), but is not on that territory.
The shoes and the hand-coloration on this image seem to say "mid-1920's", but maybe as late as mid-1930's. It was surely a studio were this photo was taken. I'm certain the coloration on the photo gives a poor interpretation of the actual costume and its colors (including the apron and ribbons), but it's great that you have shown this photo! Thanks for sharing it with us. Tania D.O.
2.) Olga's illustration on the right,
3.) photo by Sergei Mikhailovich |
Malo Rosii (Little Russia - meaning Rusyn) Lot 10333
Typical costume: babushka, puffy sleeved embroidered blouse, long warm vest, long skirt and apron. Apron looks to be heavily embroidered. She wears a babushka on her head which may be embroidered also.
4.) Pani Olyu,
It's not a full costume, central Ukraine or eastern Podillia maybe, judging by the cut of the sleeves of the shirt (with the vustavka). The apron is woven, but that could be in a few regions. Lovely faces
This is not an old traditional sorochka(shirt), unless it's from a very particular place. Women's shirts rarely if at all had embroidery on the bodice - esp. as much as this shirt. This has more than enough for a man's shirt, since women wore a large namysto (necklace), usually coral, and a kersetka (the sleeveless long fitted "jacket") over the shirt, there was no point to do all that embroidery just to have it covered up.
In Ukrains'kyi Narodnyi Odiah/Ukrainian Folk Costume (Toronto / Philadelphia: SFUZHO, 1992), there are a few sorochky with similar sleeves (not bodices) - from the regions of Poltava, Chernihiv, Kharkiv...
Not only the embroidery, stitches, and colours are important -- the CUT of the shirt is regional also. and this one fits with these areas. Except for the embroidery on the front.
This could be a photo from the beginnning of this century. Maybe this is a pieced shirt, from two others, or just one the person wanted to make this way.
I forwarded the photo to a friend in Yuzhny, which is located up the coast from Odessa. She and her mother could not determine the location for certain, because it was not a color photo. The mother speculated it might be from western Ukraine, but needed to see the colors to be certain. more info is needed, but -- based on the outfit -- not western Ukraine.
You're right that is not a full costume. The coat is missing. I would guess Transcarpathian, Hutzul or even Lemko. With the poyas (belt) and the shoes I would lean toward Hutzul. With the beads and the blouse probably not Bukovina but more Halychyna region. With the long braid (or kossa) she is probably single.
The first outfit is sort of central Ukraine (Kyiv region); the second one, no real place. Blue is NOT traditional as a solitary embroidery colour. Touches of blue appear in S.W. Ukraine (Zakarpattia, some Hutsul, Boyko areas) but not alone.
The embroidery on the last shirt is who knows from where? No such traditional embroidery. The skirt is the typical shalianova / challis skirt for girls
The ribbons/stripes on the first apron look very Lemko-style. Olga
6.) Men wore black hats while women sported embroidered kerchiefs; both wore embroidered vests and white shirts with colorful hand cross stitching.
Three native Carpathian & Ukrainian male costumes, painting by A. Vacuna.
10.) Carpathian vest, possibly Hutsul, worn by male on right. The Hutsuls are very big on orange in their embroidery and weaving.
13.) Ukrainian dance ensemble from Kiev in Los Angeles 2001
14.) Ukrainian dance ensemble in Los Angeles 1989
I enjoyed coming upon your website and thought you might be interested in the attached photo of my mother (the little blond girl) and her family (sister, brothers and mother) taken in Plonna, Poland in 1930. It gives you a picture of everyday clothing of a poor Lemko family in this region.
18. Judith Hrynenko firstname.lastname@example.org sends us a Hutsul costume and poem:
Written by: J. Hinkle
Ethnic Rights in Poland
"Poland's parliament on November 4, 2004 passed the National and Ethnic Minorities Bill that explicitly outlines the status of the country's minority peoples, including Lemkos. The bill lists by name all of the recognized ethnic and national minorities that reside in Poland."
Lemko garments http://www.lemko.org/lemko/madzik/
Highlanders of Eastern Beskidy http://www.zb.eco.pl/gh/6/lemkos_e.htm
Lemko costume from town of Vyslok (Wislok) in Lemkivshchyna http://www.lemko.org/art/jula/
Traditional Ukrainian dress http://pages.prodigy.net/l.hodges/costumes.htm.....museums and photo http://pages.prodigy.net/l.hodges/museums.htm
Dance company & costume links http://www.desna.icomm.ca/dancelinks.htm
Lemko Vatra 2004 http://www.lemko.org/lemko/vatra/2004/watra_2004.html
Lemko Vatra 2003 http://www.lemko.org/lemko/vatra/2003/index.html
Ukrainian costumes explained in Ukrainian language http://tvi.ua/program/2015/01/03/cina_svobody_vid_03012015