Before I start out on this subject I would like to say that I am not a reloading guru. I have not spent years weighing each bullet to the tenth of a grain or spinning bullets to find the center of gravity. But still, my reloaded ammunition is safe, accurate, clean professional in appearance,and performs as well as, if not better than store bought ammunition. If this is what you want to get out of reloading and you need some advice for the beginner, than this article is for you.
The first (and certainly most important) piece of equipment that you must have is a good reloading manual. Lyman, Hornady, and Sierra's manuals are good, and ther are many others. These manuals offer the reloader basic information and safe recipies. The laboratory-tested recepies are a good safe place to start working on loads. You can experiment when you get more knowledge and experience. You should also get a more advancved book on reloading, one dedicated to the mechanics of the reloading process. A book like this will take the time to go into more detail than a reloading manual can. DBI books; The ABC's of Reloading is a good place to start. This book gives reloading instruction as well as advanced projects and the address of component manufacturers and distributors. Very useful book.
An advanced reloader may have shelves full of tools but the beginner can do a good job with a minimum of equipment. Whil you will eventually need more equipment, the following tools are a must have.
CASE PREPERATION TOOLS . A tumbler is a big help for the reloader. It makes your brass clean and shiny. This reduces reloading effort and tool wear. Tumblers use ground corncob or walnut combined with a chemical polish. Either type of media will do a good job for you. If you cannot afford a tumbler Iosso Products makes a chemical wash that will remove surface grit and goo. Hoppe's #9 on a rag will clean up cases, be sure to dry them off. Of all these methods you will find the tumbler to be the best.
Other important case preperation tools is an inside/outside deburring tool and a primer pocket cleaning tool. The deburrer chamfers the edges of new,once fired, or trimmed brass. This makes the brass easy to load and less likely to split. The primer pocket cleaner cleans out gook that can build up in primer pockets. This tool will not be needed everytime, but when you need one you'll need it badly. Lee makes a good inexpensive deburring tool and a handy primer pocket tool. Both tools will cost about $5.00.
POWDER MEASURMENT. I first started measuring my powder charges using a volumetric scoop set made by Lee Precision. IT works, but there is little to no uniformity. The beginning handloader MUST have a powder scale to weigh the charge. If you don't buy one for uniformity, buy one for the sake of safety. Weighing out each and every powder charge is monotonous and time consuming. The solution to this problem is to purchase a quality volumetric powder measure. More rapid and accurate than the scoop, the measure will work well for you. If you choose to buy a progressive press, (more later) it will come with a measure. If you choose to buy a single stage press, RCBS, Hornady, Redding, and Lyman make good benchtop powder measures. Use your scale to make sure that the measure is calibrated and off you go. Don't forget to check the measure's accuracy every box of shells or so.
PRESSES AND DIESThe Press and Dies are the heart of the operation (how many times have you heard that one before?) If you are loading straight walled cases, for the sake of your own sanity get carbide dies. Tapered cartridge cases use steel dies require the cases to be lubricated. It takes practice, but you soon learn just the right amount of lube to keep things running smoothly. Most major Die companies make a quality product. I have come to love the Dillon Dies for the progressive press. Hornady and RCBS products have served me well.
Before you purchase a press you need to decide if you want to go Single Stage or Progressive. (to be continued..) Return to Ted's Home Page