First, I had to decide which end had the most surface area to work with. The unused side is then removed at the hub. |
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The cracks are filled, one at a time with a little Super Glue and clamped to reshape the end. |
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Note* Super Glue should not be used in major repairs of a flyable propeller. Though strong, it has no shear strength. Use SG and baking soda to fill in small nicks only. |
When gluing the pieces back together, one must take care not to change the shape of the airfoil or the lift characteristics of the prop will be changed. To get an accurate fit, it's sometimes necessary to trim off some of the jagged, torn wood under the pieces to refit. |
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Once the pieces have been replaced, I Super Glue a piece of veneer to the prop to act as a dam/mould around the larger voids. Laying in body filler allows me to reshape the missing pieces |
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Note* Body Filler should not be used in the repair of flyable propellers. |
To speed the shaping process, I use a very sharp chisel to slice off the body filler while it' still a little soft. Final shaping is done with an orbital sander and 120 grit sand paper. It's now ready for duplication. |
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The propeller blank is glued and cured overnight. The center and bolt holes are layed out and drilled. |
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The hub thickness is achieved by removing a portion on the tablesaw. Extra thickness needed on the blade is added at this time. |
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The repaired template and blank are mounted to the carver. |
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Carving and preliminary sanding are finished. Tomorrow I shape the hub, finish sanding and begin the application of finish. |
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Shaped, sanded and finished. The moment of truth comes when I put it on the balancer. No adjustment needed. |
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