Tools Needed:
3/8 ratchet/socket drive
10 mm socket
14 mm socket
19 mm socket
3" extension for sockets
6" to 10" extension for sockets
Feeler gauges from 0.002" to 0.012"
Flat-head screw driver
Valve Adjustment tool (I made my own with vice-grips and a 12mm deep socket but here more information on the tool >> click me )
Torque wrench
Set of needle nose pliers
Cylinder head cover gasket (part no: 12341-PR4)
4 Spark plug well gaskets (part no: 12342-PT2)
Liquid gasket (part no: 08718-0001 or 08718-0003)
Several shop rags
Difficulty Scale: On a scale of 1 to 5 (5 being very difficult) this is a 2, it's straight forward but involved.
Process:
MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS COOL TO THE TOUCH OTHERWISE THE VALVE CLEARANCE MEASUREMENTS WILL BE INACCURATE. WAIT AT LEAST 3-4 HOURS AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE BEFORE BEGINNING THE PROCEDURE.
Use the following photo as a guide to steps 1 through 7:
1.) Remove the spark plug wires from the engine block (see green
circles) and set plug wires aside.
2.) Using the 10 mm socket, remove the 4 bolts securing the resonator chamber (see red circles).
3.) Carefully pull up on the resonator chamber and remove. Cover the opening with a shop towel to ensure no debris enters. Take care not to lose the mounting bar that sits on top of the cylinder head cover.
4.) Pull up and remove the PCV valve (purple circle).
5.) Using the 14 mm socket, remove the bolt securing the power steering hose (yellow arrow).
6.) Disconnect this hose using the needle nose pliers (light blue circle).
7.) Using the 10 mm socket remove the 7 cylinder head cover bolts (blue circles).
8.) Remove the cylinder head cover and clean around the edge of the engine block so that no debris can enter into the open engine.
9.) Remove the middle cover by loosening and removing the 2 bolts with the 10 mm socket.
10.) Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and look for the opening in the wheel well for the crankshaft.
11.) Insert the 19 mm socket with a 6" to 10" extender through the opening and seat in onto the crankshaft.
12.) ONLY TURN THE CRANKSHAFT COUNTERCLOCKWISE! Turn the crank shaft counter-clockwise to so that cylinder 1 is TDC (top dead center). Set the No. 1 piston so that the "UP" mark on the pulleys are at the top and the TDC marks on the pulleys align with the pointers on the back cover.
Take a moment to familiarize yourself with the area. Note the exhaust side (towards the front of the car) and intake side (towards the rear of the car) There are 4 valves per cylinder thus 2 intake and 2 exhaust. All 16 will need to be inspected and adjusted if out of tolerance to factory specifications.
To inspect valve clearances, you'll need slide the feeler gauge between the cam lobe and the rocker arm surface (see location of the red arrow).
Valve clearances are as follows:
| Valves | Metric | U.S. Standard |
| Intake | 0.08 mm to 0.12 mm | 0.003" to 0.005" |
| Exhaust | 0.16 mm to 0.20 mm | 0.006" to 0.008" |
13.) With the No. 1 cylinder at TDC, inspect the 4 valve clearances. If an adjustment is required, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjustment screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of drag. Make sure the next size up feeler gauge does not fit. I created my own adjustment tool so that I can hold the locknut securely while turning the adjustment screw and vice versus. The tool is simply a deep 12 mm socket secured with vice grips. The screwdriver used to make adjustments to the adjustment screw fits through the 12 mm deep socket.
Tighten the locknut and check the clearances again. Make sure the adjustment screw does not move while tightening the locknut. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
14.) Set No. 3 cylinder TDC by turning the crankshaft 180°. The "Up" marks should be on the exhaust side.
Inspect the 4 valves of the No 3 cylinder. If an adjustment is required, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjustment screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of drag.
Tighten the locknut and check the clearance again. Make sure the adjustment screw does not move while tightening the locknut. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
15.) Set No. 4 cylinder TDC by turning the crankshaft 180°. The "Up" marks should be pointing down.
Inspect the 4 valves of the No 4 cylinder. If an adjustment is required, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjustment screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of drag.
Tighten the locknut and check the clearances again. Make sure the adjustment screw does not move while tightening the locknut. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
16.) Set No. 2 cylinder TDC by turning the crankshaft 180°. The "Up" marks should be on the intake side.
Inspect the 4 valves of the No 2 cylinder. If an adjustment is required, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjustment screw until the feeler gauge slides back and forth with a slight amount of drag.
Tighten the locknut and check the clearances again. Make sure the adjustment screw does not move while tightening the locknut. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
17.) Thoroughly clean the groove on the cylinder head cover.
18.) Install the head cover gasket in the grove of the cylinder head cover. Begin by first seating the gasket in recesses for the cam shaft (half circle area). Then work it into the grove around the outside edges. Make sure the gasket is securely seated with no gaps.
19.) Install the spark plug well gaskets on to the cylinder head cover.
20.) Apply a thin coat of liquid gasket to the 8 corners of recess in the head cover gasket. Make sure to install the cylinder head cover with 5 minute of applying the liquid gasket.
21.) Install the cylinder head cover in the reverse order of steps 1 through 7.
< End >
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