Disclaimer: Please note that I am not a mechanic nor a car specialist. This page is not for instructional use. Rather it is an accounting of a personal experience and/or process. Any information used from this page is solely at your discretion and I can not be held liable for any resulting action and/or damage.
Symptoms: A distributor in need of replacement may have many symptoms. In my specific case, oil was accumulating in the distributor cap. Although no performance lose or engine variances where noticed, eventually the oil will cause problems with electrical connectivity between the rotor and the distributor cap, impacting the flow of current through the ignition wires to the spark plugs.
Cause: The failure of n internal seal will result in oil seeping into the distributor .
Tools Needed:
12mm socket,
8mm socket, socket wrench
3" socket extension
5" socket extension
a shop towel or two
razor blade or a flat head screwdriver
flash light.
Difficulty Scale: On a scale of 1 to 5 (5 being very difficult) this is a 2.
Replacement: (note - these instructions are from pages 23-94 and 23-95 of the factory Honda Accord Service Manual amended with my comments.)
The relation of distributor to to the engine block impacts the timing of the vehicle. If you feel the timing of your vehicle is correct and would like to eliminate the last step (step 10) of this process, setting the timing, then note the current position of your distributor to the engine block.
As in the photo above, I used the tip of a flat head screwdriver to score a line from the distributor to the mounting surface on the engine block. A razor blade should make a better mark. Try to duplicate the mark on the new distributor. Take your time and try to be as accurate as possible, accuracy will pay off!.
Disconnect the 8-P and 2-P connector. I found this a much easier task with the distributor cap removed, this will involve removal of the ignition wires. Use the 8mm socket (an extension may be needed to get at the underside bolts/screws).
The 2-P connector comes off fairly easy. However the 8-P connector is rather difficult. I found it easier to remover the 8-P unit from the little arm it is attached to and then remove the connector.
Place the shop towel underneath the distributor, this will catch any oil spilled in the next step.
Using the 12mm socket (an extension may be needed to get at the underside bolts/screws), remove the distributor mounting bolts, then remove the distributor from the engine block (the book calls it the cylinder head) .
* note this a good time to clean up any oil build up with the distributor off
Coat the new "o" ring with engine oil (use your finger to get some oil from the opening in the engine block).
Slip the distributor into position. With the aid of the light from the flashlight look into the engine block opening and find the camshaft end. Match the lugs on the distributor to the grooves on the camshaft end. Once the lugs and grooves are matched up and the distributor is in as far as it will go, tilt the distributor towards or away from you until the marks match up, if you scored the distributor in step 1.
NOTE: The lugs on the end of the distributor and the mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.
Install the mounting bolts and tighten temporarily.
Connect the 2-P and 8-P connectors (remember to put the 8-P unit back on the little arm if removed from the arm in step 2).
Connect the ignition wires as shown:
Set timing with a timing light (subject of another How To). I took it my car to the have them do it since I don't have a timing light/gun and they only charged me $18.60 plus tax. I asked them how far off the timing was (by using the method in step 1) and I was only off by a fraction.
Was this information useful? Please consider a donation of any amount, thanks!
<< back to top>> << back to How To's >>
Last updated 20 Oct 2008 05:40:36 PM
