Phuoc Lam to Quang Ngai

Sunday, March 9th- This morning we have time to walk on the beach at Qui Nhon before leaving for our next site visit. It is early in the morning and there are many local families on the beach. After breakfast, we are driving to the town of Quang Ngai, where we will check into the Central Hotel. After that, we will continue on to the hamlet of Phuoc Lam to visit the spot where Terry's father was killed in 1963.

As we continue up Highway 1, we encounter a great deal of unexpected road work. Most of the highway is not paved. This means many potholes and large rocks in the way. Our bus drivers are forced to a slow speed. In some places, one side of the road is blocked while the work is done. Opposing vehicles are forced to pass one another in a single lane. We see a bus that has rolled off the road and lies on its side in a ditch. The occupants stand at the side of the road, unhurt but without transportation. We are thankful (and not for the last time) for our skilled drivers. We arrive in Quang Ngai much later than anticipated. The decision is made to take our bags to our rooms and then gather at the bus to go to Terry's site, which is still another hour's drive. Song calls ahead to the hotel and asks them to make us a picnic lunch. We will eat on the bus while we drive.

The view from our room at the Central Hotel.

After a quick look at our rooms, we are back on the bus. We are joined by a local tour guide, who has gathered infomation about the battle in which Terry's father was involved. The hotel has made us baguettes with spread, Laughing Cow cheese, fruit and bottled water. We are in a festive mood as we pass around the food. Sharing lunch on the bus as we drive to Terry's site is a wonderful way to "break bread". Terry shares his father's story with us along the way. His dad was serving as an advisor to the ARVN (Army Republic of Vietnam) in 1963. He was replacing another officer and was in the field with him when the unit came under surprise attack. Terry's dad immediately moved forward to direct the Vietnamese soldiers. He was killed in the attack.

Rainy skies and muddy roads.

Notice the cow in the shed behind the sweet potato field

It had been raining in the area, as we approached Terry's site. As we turned off Highway 1 and started on the backroads towards Phuoc Lam, the way became very muddy and slippery. Our drivers carefully manuevered the bus as far as was safe without getting stuck in the mud. Finally, however, we were forced to leave the bus and travel the rest of the way on foot. With flowers, incense, cameras and rain ponchos in hand, we moved down the road, trying to stay out of the mud as much as possible. Later, Terry will recall his feelings and thoughts as we began that walk. "It was kind of errie walking along that muddy road in single and double file. It really gave us the feel of a GI walking through the villages of Vietnam."

As soon as we are off the bus and on foot, we are again the center of attention. The people start coming out of their houses and the dogs start barking.

The people of the area are busy with work. We come upon a man who is returning from fishing. He shows us the basket that he uses to catch the fish. The fish swim in but then, cannot get out due to strands of raffia that block the way. We also see a man transporting his peanut harvest on his bicycle.

After a short but muddy walk, we arrive at the site where the battle took place. The local guide steps forward to read the story of the battle as told by the elders in the area. Terry gathers his mementos that he has brought to leave at the site. He has brought the rose from the 2000 Sons and Daughters In Touch Fathers Day Reunion in Washington DC. He has flowers from the local market and incense, as well.

As Terry spends time at his father's site, we start to connect with the people who have started to gather around. There is a bamboo house next to the rice field. It appears that two children live in the house with their grandmother. The little boy has red rain boots. They are very suspicious of the strangers in their front yard.

After spending time alone at his dad's site, Terry rejoins the group. He has brought suckers for the children. A group of men from the ville gather around. One elder man remembers the battle and speaks with Terry through our Vietnamese guides. Terry gives American cigarettes to the head of the ville and to the elder man.

The Purple Team with the residents of Phuoc Lam.

The rice field where Terry's father made the ultimate sacrifice.

Terry had hoped to continue on to An Hoa, where his father had served prior to coming to Phuoc Lam. However, due to the challenging roads, the hour was getting late and An Hoa was still some distance away. Terry made the decision to save his trip to An Hoa for "next time". We returned to Quang Ngai.

Back at the hotel, we took the elevator up to the top floor for drinks and dinner. To our surprise, the Orange Team was also staying at the Central Hotel that night. We had only parted company a day and a half before, but it seemed like a lifetime. There were stories to share about the site visits for both teams. That night, in our room with the house gekko crawling across the ceiling above my bed, I thought about the next day when it would be my turn to visit my dad's site. What would it be like? I knew that one of our team leaders had pictures of Antenna Valley from an earlier visit but I had avoided asking to look at them. I wanted to come to the experience as "fresh" as I could. Tomorrow afternoon I would know.