Hanoi

Saturday, March 15th, Today we are flying from DaNang to Hanoi, the capitol of Vietnam. Our 2 days at the Furama Resort have gone by too quickly. Ed and I chose to spend Friday relaxing by the pool. I also enjoyed an hour facial and an hour massage (for the total sum of $40.00 US). After the busy schedule that we have maintained since leaving Los Angeles, this day of rest is very welcome. That night, our group enjoyed a beach party with prepared to order seafood and dancing to the hits of the 60's.

As we check out of the resort and prepare to leave for the airport, I am aware that I am not feeling very well. So far, we have managed to avoid any serious stomach trouble or other health issues. But this morning, I have a deep conjestion and am concerned about keeping my ears clear during our flight to Hanoi. Once we are on the bus, I learn that there is even more need for concern. Our Army nurses, all veterans of the Vietnam War, inform us that there is a serious virus spreading through Southeast Asia. Already, at the French Hospital in Hanoi, there have been deaths from this virus. This is our first news about what was to become the SARS epidemic. We are told to see the doctor at the hotel in Hanoi if we start to have any symptoms.

The flight to Hanoi passes easily. My ears stay clear and I feel better by the time we check into the Sunway Hotel in Hanoi. Ed and I walk the few blocks to a store to purchase a disposable camera for the rest of the trip. We return to the hotel in time to take a bus tour of the city. Hanoi immediately seems different from Saigon and the other cities in the South. The city is very beautiful, with many parks and wide expanses of public gardens. Two lakes mark the center of the city, one on each side of a main roadway.

The larger lake is called Ho Tay or West Lake. The smaller lake is Truc Bach or Silk Lake.

As we drive through the city, the ever present scooters hurry along as they did in the cities of the south. However, the dress of the people seems more modern and westernized. We do not see as many women in the traditional Vietnamese dress, the ao dai. We do see something we have not glimpsed since leaving California- skateboarders. As we approach Ho Chi Mihn's masoleum, we are greeted with the sight of 2 boys on skateboards. One has purple hair! We see the sharp contrast of these boys with the neatly trimmed lawns and uniformed guards on the grounds of the masoleum.

Inside the masoleum, the body of Ho Chi Mihn has been preserved and is on display. However, the masoleum is only open in the morning so we are not able to go inside this afternoon. Ho Chi Mihn had asked to be cremated upon his death and his ashes scattered over his country. His wishes were not honored.

Our tour takes us past many government buildings, both old and new. As we approach another well-manicured building, we see a group of people gathered on the lawns. As we draw nearer, we see that they are trimming the grass and pulling weeds. They are ordinary citizens performing their civic duty in tending to this area of the city.

We also pass the Hanoi Citadel. Like Hue, there is an ancient city within the modern city of Hanoi. Today, from our bus, we can only glimpse a portion of the wall surrounding the city. A tour of the Citadel will have to wait for another time.

The next stop on our tour of Hanoi is Truc Bach or Silk Lake. This small lake in the heart of Hanoi is the site where John McCain landed after ejecting from his airplane over Hanoi. Today, Silk Lake is a popular gathering spot, with colorful paddleboats, food stands and scenic views. There is a monument marking the spot where Senator McCain was pulled from the water by the citizens of Hanoi.

After we leave Silk Lake, we stop for another terrific lunch. After lunch, the bus takes those who care to shop to the ancient district of "36 streets and 36 wares". Connie, Gayle and I decide this is a good time to finish up the last of our gift shopping. The bus drops us off in yet another lovely park. On one side of the street is a small pagoda; on the other is a large statue celebrating the workers of Vietnam. Crossing the street is a difficult task as it has been in the cities in the south. The scooters, bicycles and trucks do not stop for pedestrians. The secret is to walk slowly, without looking at the vehicles and drivers. The traffic adjusts itself to avoid hitting the walkers, though it is hard not to flinch as a scooter passes by at very close range.

Shopping on the streets of Hanoi is very different from shopping in the marketplace in Saigon. The sidewalks are jammed with parked scooters and people. It is necessary to watch your step as you go, which makes window shopping rather difficult. We buy armfuls of t-shirts for just $2.00 US each. Tired and hot, we take a taxi back to the Sunway Hotel. Tomorrow is our last day in Hanoi. Soon we will be returning to the United States.