Q: My Maxima without the security & convenience package came without variable intermittent wipers. Can I add this on?
A: It is possible to add this feature to your Maxima. It's simply a matter of replacing the wiper stalk. I think a new one costs about $40 retail from the dealer.
Q: I had an aftermarket alarm installed in my 95+ Maxima. However it doesn't always unlock the doors when disarming, and when it does unlock the doors, there's a delay.
A: Courtesy of Matt.
I solved this *exact* same problem on my '97 SE. I had a Clifford SuperNova II installed because I do not have the factory alarm. The installer tells me that Nissan's have this one-pulse/lock, two-pulse/unlock thing with the keyless entry and the aftermarket alarm has to duplicate the timing of the two-pulse correctly or the doors won't unlock. Anyway, he installs a relay in the door that is triggered by the Clifford to make the two pulses. Everything seemed to work fine at first, but I noticed that when it got cold out, the doors wouldn't unlock with the remote (they'd always work with the inside door switch). He tried playing with the timing on the relay and the value of the capacitor driving the relay but it didn't work.
So I took it to another installer and this kid knows his stuff. He says the way to avoid this problem is to solder the aftermarket alarm output lead direct to the PC board of the door lock switch. He explained that since the door switch always unlocks the locks, *it* knows how to correctly send the two-pulse signal. The way mine (and probably yours) was set up was the alarm would send a signal to the relay, which was driven by a capacitor, that would duplicate the two-pulse signal and send it to the door lock *circuit*. His way has the alarm signal going directly to the door lock *mechanism* which already knows how to send the correct two-pulse signal. He told me he called Clifford and they had never heard of the particular door lock PC board that is in the '97 driver's door, so he called Nissan and--get this--supposedly *Nissan* had never heard of this PC board for the driver's door lock.
Anyway, this kid soldered the alarm output directly to the circuit board and now my locks work perfectly all the time. If yours is hooked up like mine was, when you disarm the alarm, the alarm will chirp (to indicate it is disarmed), and then you hear a bunch of clicks (if you're close enough--the relay is doing its thing), and then the door locks pop--about a 1-2 second delay after the alarm is disarmed. With the output directly soldered, there is *no* delay, and the locks pop instantaneously with the alarm arming or disarming. It's perfect.
Now I'm pretty good with doing my own electrical wiring on my car, but I have no idea what he actually soldered to what. Your best bet is to call him direct. He works at Tweeter in Newington, CT and his name is Chris (ask for Chris in Mobile/Installation). Their phone number is (860)-665-0606. I'm not plugging Tweeter or their services. In fact, the first tech that installed my Clifford also worked for Tweeter and although he did a meticulous install, he obviously didn't know the correct way to set this up. I don't know if this will work for all '95+ Maximas or not, but it definitely works for a '97.
Q: My 89+ Maxima has type-9004 headlamp bulbs, with 45W lowbeams and 65W highbeams. (The pre-89 Maxima *may* have 9004 bulbs as well; I don't know). Are there any upgrades that I can make to my headlights that will help visibility?
A: Yes -- Andi suggests to try Wagner Xenon Britelites 9004's, dubbed the 9004BL's. They're the same wattage as stock, but they have a slightly better gas mix than regular bulbs (i.e. higher percentage of xenon) so their light is a little whiter and brighter than stock. From my experience the light also seems to be a little more "sharp" and focused. They run about $10 apiece and you can find them at any NAPA Auto Parts store. (The NAPA-sold won't have the Wagner name on them but they ARE the same things).
Also recommended are Philips/Narva Bluevisions and RangePower bulbs. (Are these the same?) Rishi M. Singh stated, "I'd say between a "5%-10%" overall improvement. Any improvement on the weak 9004 lamp is good."
Try this link for a really good FAQ about automotive lighting in general. The author, Daniel Stern, is a very nice and knowledgeable guy...
Beware of increased-wattage bulbs. Although some people say they have had good luck with them, they create extra heat caused by the increased wattage. If you try one of these, don't blame me if a lens or wire melts, and/or you blow a fuse.
Also another new trend is "blue ion" bulbs. AVOID THESE! They are simply regular halogen bulbs dipped in a very thin blue paint. Visibility is actually *REDUCED* with these bulbs, all in the interest of trying to imitate the real "Xenon" bulbs in the high-end Mercedes models. Those are a completely different technology -- it's called High Intensity Discharge (HID), and it's the same principle as the fluorescent lights in the office buildings... The electricity has to "jump" across a gap between two metal leads through a gas (in this case, Xenon). Those require thousands of volts of electricity at the bulb and thus have built-in transformers and everything.
Maybe one day there will exist a retrofit HID kit for the Maxima (JC Whitney is already selling them for other cars). However, expect the price of this to exceed $1,000. One other thing you should know about HID lamps in the USA: in bad conditions like rain or fog, they actually hurt visibility because their bluish light is reflected off the moisture and causes glare. Euro-spec headlights don't have this problem because they have a sharp cutoff to not blind other drivers. However, USA DOT-approved headlights have a soft cutoff that glares upward (to light road signs ABOVE the roads; LAUGH). So if you do decide to spend the money to buy a HID kit, I propose a better use of your money: order a set of Maxima QX headlights from a European Nissan Parts Department. These should cost $400 for the pair but they will offer much better visibility than any USA-spec headlights. Also, because of the longitudinal filament used in the H4 bulb (used in the Euro-spec headlights), they respond much better to wattage increases, i.e. visibility improves a lot with wattage increases, whereas with USA-spec headlights a wattage increase usually will not grant you much better visibility.
UPDATE from Matt L:Actually Steve, I did a little more searching and found a post by Andi on another site stating that those Maxima QX Headlights would only fit a U.S. Infinity I30 and not the U.S. Maxima. So perhaps that section of the FAQ should be modified or removed.
Q: I have a 95+ Maxima with the OEM foglights, but don't like the white light they produce. Shouldn't foglights make yellow light?
A: Yes! Purchase a pair of Hella Yellow Star 85W H3's (Should run you about $25 for the pair) and install them in the foglights. Direct "plug-and-play" fit. They work great on Andi's 97 Maxima SE -- no overheating problems (although they do run a bit hotter than stock), and much better light output than the stock 55W clear bulbs. One recommendation to get the Hellas is to contact David at OJ Rallye (920) 893-2531 and ask him for the 85w Hella YellowStar bulbs. A second recommendation is Susquehanna MotorSports.
Q: I have a 4th gen Maxima with the OEM foglights, but they're aimed too low. How do I re-aim them?
A: Next to each of your foglights there's a piece of black plastic held there by a plastic screw. Remove this and you'll see two 10 mm hex bolts. Remove these and you can pull out the foglight. Don't forget to remove the wiring harness from the back of the foglight before completely yanking it from the bumper. You will notice an 8 mm hex bolt on the back of the foglight. Try just a small move at first. The adjustment is pretty sensitive.
Q: What about reaiming the foglights on the 5th gen Maxima?
A: Matt wrote: The procedure to reaim the 5th gen foglights is a pain in the ass. There is a whole bunch of clips and fasteners you have to remove from the bumper.
But Paul Stauffer provided two graphics showing how. The first shows how to remove the fender protector. The second shows how to aim the foglights.
Q: My 97+ Maxima is not an SE. Is it possible to install the factory SE foglamps in my car?
A: Yes! The 97+ non-SE foglamp kit is a Genuine Nissan Accessory. Try these recommendations for mail-order parts.
Edward Adato was kind enough to scan the foglamp instructions and post them:
Q: The foglights on my 95+ Maxima will only turn on when the lowbeam headlights are on. How can I get them to run with just the parking lights?
A: Andi has provided a step-by-step procedure.
For some reason (probably a DOT regulation of some sort), Nissan decided to make the foglights only turn on when you have the headlights on. And the fogs turn off when you use the highbeams!
The following steps will result in the following behavior from the foglights: The foglights will turn on with the foglight switch whenever the parking lights, the lowbeams, or the highbeams are on. Only when the headlight switch is on the full "OFF" position will the fogs be off independent of the foglight switch.
So... before I explain how to rewire the foglights to get them to run in the above manner I will give a brief summary of Nissan's foglight circuit so you can have a better understanding of what you're working on:
Actual Stock wiring: The foglight circuit goes through a regular relay with one power input, one signal input, and the output (and a ground, I think). Here's Nissan's clever trick: The signal input does *NOT* come from the foglight switch! It comes from the lowbeams' +12V. Then, you ask, how does the foglight switch affect the foglights? The foglight switch on the turn signal stalk COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT BY PROVIDING A GROUND. Neato huh? So *only* when the lowbeams are on can the foglights run.[A relay is defined as a unit with a power input, a signal input, and a power output. When there is no voltage in the signal input, the power input and power output are DISconnected. When there is a voltage on the signal input, the relay connects the power wires, sending power to the power output (from the power input). For any computer science majors out there: Think of a relay as a great big "and" gate.]
Here's what you're looking for -- the step-by-step procedure to rewire the foglights to behave as described above:
[All directions will be referenced how you see it when looking at it, not absolute sides of the car. i.e. when you have the hood open and you're looking at the engine, the steering column (in the US) is on the RIGHT!]
Q: Can I rewire the foglights for the same effect on my 2000 Maxima?
A: Yes, it is possible. Mike Willemsen and Andi first tried it at Maxus99 on Peter Ling's 2000 Maxima SE and the operation was a success. The process is very similar to the 95-99 directions above. The results are great, with one exception -- the fogs still do not work with the highbeams. But they will work with the parking lights.
The following 2000 Maxima foglight rewiring directions courtesy of Russell Zotz:
Okay you need the following stuff..
Remember this way of connecting the wire is suggested, but you may do it however you please... This is just the safer way of doing it.
Q: I have a 97+ Maxima and would like to have cornering lights like all the pre-97 Maximas had. Is there any way to install cornering lights in my car?
A: Andi researched this:
Yes and no. In 1997, Nissan removed the whole cornering light _system_ from the Maxima. What exactly did they remove? Well... They removed the lead in the turn-signal switch to send a voltage to the cornering light signal wire; they removed the cornering light signal wire itself; they removed the cornering light relay and relay harness in the relay box; they removed the wiring in the cornering light assembly to light up the cornering light itself. So it seems pretty hopeless to retrofit cornering lights into a 97+ Maxima, right?
Well, not really... Let me elaborate: The 97+ Maxima's "clearance light" is the same assembly as the cornering light from the previous years. It still has the dual-wattage 1157 bulb (8W for parking lights, 27W for cornering lights), but there is no wire leading to the 27W filament's lead on the bulb. What I propose (and I actually did to my car) is to move the parking light wire from the 8W filament to the 27W filament, thus effectively having full-time cornering lights whenever the parking lights (and possibly headlights) are turned on.
I will describe how to do one side... repeat the following procedure for both sides:
Some people have commented, "Why not just put some foil under the bulb to connect both filaments to the original wire?" This, in theory, should work, but it will give you 35W cornering lamps instead of 27W. I know from experience with my own car that 27W works fine, with no fuses blowing and no overheating problems. But if you want to try 35W, remember... It hasn't been tested so do it at your own risk.
Q: I don't care for the orange lenses in the front bumper of my 95+ Maxima. Is there a set of clear turn signals and sidemarkers available, and are they legal?
A: There is a company called Focuz that produces clear front turn signals for the 95+ Maxima. They replace the entire light assemblies in the front bumpers, and they are clear with gray housings. Yellow bulbs are included in the package. You must use these yellow bulbs; having clear turn signals with clear bulbs is dangerous and stupid, IMHO.
Legality-wise, the turn signals are legal since with the yellow bulbs they still produce yellow light when blinking. The sidemarkers are also legal with the yellow bulbs. However, the law also says that sidemarkers must also have yellow reflectors, which the clear lights do not have. In this respect, they are not legal. However, I sincerely doubt police officers know and/or care about the legality of clear reflectors. I think they're only after people who put clear bulbs in clear turn signals, thus producing blinking white light. If you ever get pulled over, I'd bet that showing the kind officer that they blink orange light will be enough to let you go. Lots of people have had these lights installed for a while and nobody that I know of has been pulled over for this.
The Focuz clear front bumper lights are available from quite a few sources. I bought mine from Courtesy Nissan Parts for $65. Their number is 1-800-527-1909. Ask to speak to Steve Richardson.
Here are the instructions for installing these clear front bumper lights so that they do not get stolen:
Q: My Maxima has the BOSE audio system with the CD changer controls and I'd like to install an aftermarket CD changer since the unit Nissan sells is so expensive. Are any aftermarket units compatible with my audio system?
A: Matt L provides the following information, but be sure and see the update if you plan to play CD-Rs...
In the FAQ it is said that the only way to get a CD changer for the Maxima w/Bose is to spend about $600 or to buy it from Canada. Well, after extensive, and I mean EXTENSIVE searching and asking around, I finally found the OEM 6 disc CD changer Clarion/Bose unit. It can be purchased at the following sites:http://www.nissanparts.cc Current Price: $379http://www.nissanpartsusa.com Current Price: $316
Please update your FAQ. It will save future visitors the headache that I went through over the past few weeks.
And then here's an even cheaper price found by Dan
I just wanted to let you know that I found the changer cheaper at another site. Here's the address.http://store.autotoys.com/cgi-bin/wfp53024.storefront/
You have to search a little, but they have it for $225 with shipping included. I'm planning on buying one soon, and I'm buying it from there. Well, I hope this helps.
Matt has since offered the following update:
Because I have been getting so many e-mails from people excited about the info I posted on the factory CD changer, I decided to submit an update to your FAQ.Upon further research I have decided NOT to buy the factory CD changer that I mentioned in this FAQ. The reason for this is that I have been told that it cannot play CD-R media. Although I find this very hard to believe, I was informed that this is true from several sources including e-mail from a website that sells the changer and phone calls to Courtesy Nissan in TX, another local Nissan dealer by me in NY, and Clarion themselves. If anyone out there reading this owns the factory unit and can verify that this information is incorrect, please let me know. Until then, I can't discount what I've been told from so many sources.
On a side note, one of the websites told me that the USA Spec brand CD changer WILL play CD-Rs. I don't know much about the brand name, but it is designed to easily plug into the factory Bose system and you may want to check it out.
Personally I have dropped the idea of adding a CD changer to my car and in favor of trying to figure out the best way to add an MP3 player which I believe is a far better choice.
-Matt
And still a further followup:
An update to your FAQ. I actually did buy the CD changer from Dave B.at 800-251-7278 and it DOES play CDR's although it is a bit quirky with 80 minute CDR's. Just use 74 min and you should be OK. For MP3's I bought an Apple Ipod 10GB and play it through the Bose system via a cassette adapter
Here's my former information, which I'll keep here for a
while:
There is no alternative to the '95-96 Nissan factory CD Changer if you want to control it from the BOSE head unit. You could do a frequency-modulated unit with a separate remote, but some folks report problems with the Bose dual antenna. The cheapest route to get a Nissan changer appears to be to buy it in Canada.
I did the following research back in 1996:
I confirmed that the 96 Maxima Bose head unit is by Clarion. You can get info from Bose by calling their OEM line at 508-879-7330. Patty at Bose told me that the direct connection from the CD Changer is a 16 pin DIN. This is much different than some of the other configurations that I came across from those of you that had done similar stuff to other systems.Clarion's OEM group can be found at 800-347-8933, but this also seems to be an OEM warranty line, and I had a difficult time getting tech support. I finally talked to an OEM unit supervisor who them transferred me to Steve Ponful in Clarion Q/A. He told me that the OEM Clarion CD Changer uses a balanced signal cable. This means that there is not a common ground between the channels. Thus the 16 pins? This increases S/N ratio and reduces cable noise pickup. He said that just changing pinouts would not work, and that you'd have to build some type of transformer. Which would be more expensive than the delta cost of a freq. modulated unit and the Clarion/Nissan unit
Brown and Brown Nissan in Tempe (wholesale Nissan parts) says there's not much of a wholesale discount for the changer. They sell it wholesale for $598.
Another idea I tried was looking for folks that make adapters for CD Changers. There's an outfit in Florida called Stinger who makes adapters. They have a web page, and can be reached at 813-572-9255. I found the web page (which I didn't save) with altavista (searched for "cd changer" and alpine). The guy at Stinger said they had not even set up official links to it yet. <!> In any event, they do not have an adapter for the Nissan/Bose. He also told me that the difference is more than a pinout change, and that a logic box of some sort would have to be built.
Finally, I discovered that there is a lot of disrespect for Bose units. I saw a guy that is selling the entire Bose unit, yanked from his Maxima after less than a month. ($1000 by the way, no CD changer). A lot of folks say don't bother with my search, just junk the Bose system.
Personally, I'm interested in the convenience of the CD Changer, but not $598 interested. And I'm not particularly interested in having to keep track of a freq. modulated system remote or gluing a cable-remote to my dash somewhere. So I'll just putter along with the system like it is with its single disk player and put my car money into suspension upgrades instead.
Q: My Maxima has the BOSE audio system and I would like to add more bass to it. Is there any way to add a subwoofer to this audio system?
A: Courtesy of Russell Zotz:
Okay guys and gals. We finally hooked up the subs I had this weekend to the stock BOSE system.. and here is how we did it...Two SUBS to your Stock BOSE system on the 95+ Maxima's... probably will work for all generations with Bose.... First this is what we have....
After hooking these up to the system and fine tuning it, it sounded awesome and a perfect beat...I originally had a JVC flip down face 40w in dash receiver in my old 96 SE, and it sounded good, but hooking it up to the Bose it even sounds better.....The car is so insulated and the trunk it has a good beat....
These are step-by-step instructions to help anyone hooking up anytime of subs,crossover,box to there trunk and BOSE system. It took approx. 2 hrs. The box from Circuit City was 30 bucks....Any other questions just email me at nismo@texas.net
