Wine	Origin
Babich, Marlborough, 2002 Riesling	New Zealand
Spy Valley, Marlborough, 2003 Riesling	New Zealand
Pikes, Clare Valley, 2002 Riesling	Australia
Chateau Ste. Michelle/Dr. Loosen. Columbia Valley, 2003 Eroica Riesling	Washington
Charles Schleret, Alsace, 1999 Herrenweg Riesling	Alsace
Dr Loosen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2002 Dr. L. Riesling QbA	Germany
Bassermann-Jordan, Pfalz, 2002 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Kabinett	Germany
Grans Fassian, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2002 Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett	Germany
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2001 Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett	Germany
Joh. Jos. Prüm, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 2001 Riesling Kabinett	Germany
Joh. Jos. Prüm, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, 1998 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese	Germany
Grans Fassian, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Trittenheimer Apotheke 2002 Riesling Auslese	Germany

Riesling is first seen in the public records in the year 1435, when it was spelled as ‘riesslingen’. The modern spelling first appeared in 1552. As far as researchers can tell Riesling developed from wild vine sometime during the early middle ages. It spread though the Rhine and Mosel valley in the 16^th and 17^th centuries and by the 18^th century was being planted as the sole variety in some vineyards, a radical idea at the time. Records show Riesling in Alsace as far back as 1477. It flourished there for a while until the Germans seized the land from France and turned Alsace into a bulk wine region. Only after Alsace was restored to France in 1919 did the region, and its Rieslings and its other grapes, come to greatness once more. German immigrants brought Riesling to both the Americas and Australia during the 19^th century. It was established in California by 1857, and Washington in 1871, and in Australia by the mid-1880s. Over the last century and a half Riesling has fallen and risen again. It’s hard to imagine but just 100 years ago the best German Rieslings commanded higher prices than the finest Bordeaux. The glut of awful Liebfraumilchs and Niersteiners on the market put pay to that during the latter years of this century until very recently. In Australia during the 1980s the once highly regarded Riesling was eclipsed by Chardonnay as this grape captivated the world. The profound and interesting wines of the 1950 and 1960s were no longer in vogue and so lighter, less interesting wines resulted. However, as we can attest, the times have changed in the last twenty years. German winemakers have only improved their craft during this period, producing wines that typify the grape. Australia is again resurgent with tremendous wines from the Eden and Clare Valleys. Looking ahead I’d expect to see Chile and South Africa making some interesting value wines in the future – if they can find good sites – alongside their brethren who are doing that just now in New Zealand and the US.

While Riesling is now found in many pockets of the world the genetic variations in these planting are fairly small, almost negligible. Riesling does not have the ability to genetically mutate as members of the Pinot family do. Perhaps Riesling, a complete grape, has already reached its evolutionary apex while Pinot has not. Who knows? Whatever the reasons, there are 60 Riesling clones available to growers in Germany and there aren’t huge differences between them. Unlike in Oregon where the correct Pinot Noir clone is essential, especially to the style of the wine that will result, the clonal selection is not hugely important when planting Riesling. In fact, the changes in Riesling clones in the last twenty years have been to lower yields, which has been another reason for the general rise in quality, especially from the second- and third-tier German producers. One exception might be the clone known as N90. When grown in the Pfalz it can produce amazingly perfumed and hugely aromatic wines. What is far more important for Riesling is the vineyard site. No other grape reflects its terroir more perfectly than Riesling.

Although terroir is a French notion, the Riesling grape is the best exemplar of site that the wine world has yet found, and it is far more consistent than the two grapes of Burgundy – Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Although Riesling needs a slow, cool ripening season and low yields to produce a profound wine all else stems from the vineyard site. As long as they are well drained, sunny and sheltered, Riesling adapts to most soil types, but does best on sandy clay and loam. The notion of terroir is found, as one would expect, in Alsace and Germany, Riesling’s two primary homes. In Alsace the Grand Cru system of the 50 top vineyards is predicated on the assumption that these different sites produce wines of different character than the others. And in Germany you often hear of the minerally flavor of the wines of the Wehlen from the Mosel, or the steeliness of the Traben-Trarbach’s blue slate, or the blackcurrant notes that come from the clay in Piesport.

In most parts of the world Riesling can ripen early which robs such wines of the great complexity of the grape and renders them dull and uninteresting. Riesling does best in the most marginal climates and in Germany it grows at its northern limit. In order to ripen in the Mosel, its northerly apex, it must have the steep slopes the area is famous for. This allows the grapes to catch every single ray of the sun. And the vineyard elevation is crucial. Too low, too close to the river, and the mist delays ripening. Planted too high, above 200 meters, and it is too cold. This combination of sun, slope and elevation allows the grapes to ripen fully but slowly. The slower the ripening, the more complex the resultant wines. In Australia although Shiraz, a hot weather variety, grows and flourishes in the Clare Valley, Riesling is grown in the higher altitude vineyards at 400 meters and there it enjoys the cold nights crucial to its slow ripening.

The use of stainless steel produces youthful, vigorous, brisk Rieslings that drink well young and can age well when stored properly. Such wines have beautiful crystalline fruit flavors and can be piercingly refreshing, especially when in the throes of youth. This style is heavily favored by New World producers. The old-style producers still use old oak casks. Some still employ this in Australia, and most Alsatian and German vintners still craft their wines in this style. The soft oxygenation that occurs in these old barrels softens the edges of the wines and adds a great deal of complexity during the aging process. These wines also tend to be a little more age-worthy. However, Penfolds have basic Rieslings under screw cap in their labs that have been evolving wonderfully for over twenty years now. When made well it seems that Riesling can age for a very long time. Indeed, dessert-level wines from Germany that are over forty years old taste vibrant and youthful even now. Will these wines last forever? I don’t know but they will probably outlive us all.

Riesling’s acidity and floral perfumes means it typically works well without new oak – which can smother this shy beauty. However, Rieslings with weight, extract and alcohol (so some from the New World and even a few wines from Pfalz and Baden in Germany – when bone dry) can work with new oak. You might think that Alsace, given its full-bodied wines, would be a good candidate for the use of oak with Rieslings. However, winemakers have experimented with this and been generally displeased with the results.

Riesling is rarely blended; it makes little sense when all the component pieces are in the one grape. There are some examples where Riesling and Pinot Blanc are combined, producing full-bodied with lots of finesse. However, Riesling can be a useful blending agent for other grapes – especially Muscat and Gewürztraminer, which lack Rieslings high acidity, especially when grown in warm climates. When it works well these wines have more balance. Not much Riesling-based Sekt, German’s answer to Champagne, makes it to these shores. It’s too bad – under ripe, sharp Riesling can produce some superb sparklies.

Sweet Rieslings are a breed apart and some of the most delicious drinking one will ever encounter. The high acidity balances the high sugar levels and so even high levels of sugar – something in the 50 grams of residual sugar level – can taste light, delicate and refreshing. In Germany the best sweet wines are made by stopping the fermentation by either chilling, adding sulfur dioxide, or centrifuging the wine. In this manner the fructose element of the fruit juice is primary (the glucose is fermented first) and these wines are more fruity and refreshing. The method by where the fermentation is completed and Süssreserve – a sweet unfermented fruit juice – is added is less satisfactory and the extra dimensions afforded by stopping fermentation is lost.

Fine sweet Riesling is made using grapes that have been affected by the noble rot – Botrytis cinerea – the fungus that shrivels the grapes and concentrates their acidity and sweetness. Botrytis-affected wines come from Germany, Austria, Alsace, and increasingly from New Zealand and California. The German wines demand high, stratospheric prices and are rarely seen in the market place. Most are made for the wine auctions and made in tiny quantities. Those not made for the auction market rarely recoup their costs. It is estimated that the cost of making a Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) wine in the Rheingau in Germany is DM500, about 100 marks over its selling price.

Magnificently decadent, and expensive, the last unique category of Riesling is the Eiswein. Fine Eisweins have been coming from Germany for years, and Canada has been exporting very fine wines in recent years. The grapes for these wines are picked at -6°C or lower. When the grapes are pressed the water is left behind as ice and intensely sweet juice runs, very slowly, from the press. Some growers like to use botrytized grapes in their Eiswein, but others are content to use regular frozen grapes. These wines have purer flavors, while the grapes affected with the noble rot are honeyed and unctuous. Some reviewers seem to experience orgasms when they write about these latter wines. It’s almost as if drinking them is an otherworldly experience. Canada is the largest producer of icewine, making some 600,000 bottles a year. Even Oregon, Michigan and Luxembourg winemakers are getting in on the act today, making ever-improving examples.

Somewhat surprisingly Riesling only accounts for 20% of the vineyards plantings in Germany. Muller-Thurgau is the dominant grape in Germany, with 25% of vineyards planted with this bland tasting varietal. However, over 95% of the fine wine from Germany comes from the Riesling grape. In the drier and slightly sweet versions there is a wonderful concoction of apple, lime, wet stone, and citrus flavors and scents. As the Riesling becomes sweeter the flavors become more tropical. Mango, pineapple, honeyed apples, peaches, apricot come to the fore. A quality of all top Riesling is a zesty, vibrant, steely focus that is laser-like in its ability to give great clarity to the wine.

While at first glance approaching German wines seems quite intimidating nothing could be further from the truth – with a little knowledge. While the intricacies of German winemaking are complex the basics are quite simple to grasp although the pronunciation may be another matter! German wines are labeled varietally and have the added bonus of actually describing how the wine will taste in the mouth, something no other country does, at least by law. If you pick up a Riesling from the US or Australia you won’t be sure of the level of sweetness until you pop open the cork although the alcohol content will provide some clue. On the German label it is all laid out for you. One merely needs to translate. In many ways German wine labels are the most informative in the world.

Possibly the most famous wine district in Germany, located west of the city of Frankfurt between the villages of Assmannshausen and Hochheim, where the Rhine River takes a nearly straight 20-mile course southwest. From the river, the land rises up to the Taunus Mountains in the north, protecting the region from cold north winds; nearly all of the vineyards have an incomparable southerly exposure, resulting in one grand array of well-known wine towns. The Rheingau is renowned primarily for select bottlings, produced by centuries-old vineyard estates. Four-fifths of the land is planted in Riesling, and from the fine loess-loam soil of the Rheingau, scented and flavorful white wines are the result.

The Pfalz area, or Palatinate, is the most productive wine region in Germany, and the second largest, with some 51,200 acres of vineyard. Located on the left bank of the Rhine River north of the border with France, the Pfalz region is one of the warmest and driest agricultural areas in Germany. Orchards and vineyards abound in the rolling countryside, and the mild climate ensures optimum ripening conditions. The word Pfalz derives from the Latin Palatium, for the region was noted for its wine during the Roman Empire, and it was named for the Palantine Hills in Rome, the first residence of Roman Emperors. Some Pfalz wine estates date back to Roman times, with strong positions for quality. The area, as a whole, is shadowed by a rolling mountain chain, the Haardt, which is a geological extension of the Vosges to the south of France. This gives the Rheinpfalz a special climatic advantage.

Rheinhessen, or Hessia, is the largest wine region in Germany. The region lies on the left bank of the Rhine River to the north of the Rheinpfalz district, and the vineyards form a vast area beginning south near the city of Worms, continuing due north along the Rhine as far as Mainz, and then paralleling the Rheingau district on the other side of the river, on a southwest course to Bingen. Rheinhessen producers produce generally exceptional, estate-bottled wines that can stand with the best in Germany. Rheinhessen wines have a characteristic of softness balanced with fruity acidity, which is a function of the soil and the temperature climate in which they are grown. The 1971 Wine Law delimited the Rheinhessen region into three sub-regions or Beirche. The most important is Nierstein named for its most famous wine town. Bereiche Nierstein includes the celebrated wine villages of Nackenheim, Oppenheim, Dienheim, and Bodenheim. They form a chain of well-exposed vineyards at higher elevations along the "Rhine front" (the river’s edge). These vineyards experience a microclimate influenced by the Rhein River and have a rich soil.

The Mosel River draws from its source in France’s Vosges Mountains, continues through Luxembourg, and winds across Germany until it drains into the Rhine River at Koblenz. Vineyards abound on its banks throughout eastward journey, but the most famous and important lie in the section in Germany – and in particular in the Mittel-Mosel, located between the villages of Trittenheim and Erden. All of the fine wines of the Mosel are white, and almost all are produced from Riesling. The soil of the Mosel is predominately slate, and the slate partly accounts for the excellence of wines. But equally significant is the Mosel’s cool climate, which allows the grapes to have optimum sugar-acid balance. The vines cling tenaciously to incredibly steep hillsides, which provide optimum drainage and exposure but necessitate Herculean labor to manage the vineyards. The Mosel has two tributaries, the Saar and Ruwer Rivers, which flow into the Mosel near the city of Trier. Both rivers also have important vineyard areas. Under the 1971 German Wine Law, the three regions were combined into one region or Anbaugebiet: Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. The wines of each region have their own distinct properties, but the best all share a resemblance: an unsurpassed floral bouquet, coupled with a piquant spiciness. Their delicacy is exquisite: rarely do the wines exceed 11% alcohol.

An important wine region for the German market in the upper Main River valley, the region’s center is the city of Würzburg, which has the most famous vineyards. The neighboring villages of Escherndorf, Iphofen and Randersacker are also acclaimed for their wines. The region experiences a cool climate as compared to the other German viticulture areas farther to the west where the climate is influenced by the North Sea. This cooler, or continental, climate makes it necessary to rely on grape varietals other than Riesling, such as Muller-Thurgau and Silvaner. Wines from these grape varieties generally produce powerful, dry wines with characteristic mineral complexity. The Franken region also produces some excellent late harvest wines from new grape varieties such as Bacchus and Ortega.

In 1971 German law divided the countries wines into three distinct categories:

- Deutscher Tafelwein (DTW) – German Table Wine

- Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiet (QbA) – Quality wine from a specified region

- Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP)

The most important – the QmP – ranks the best quality German wines based on ascending levels of ripeness and sweetness. Interestingly it also dictates the price of the wines.

You are unlikely to come across this labeling. But, just in case and especially if you are abroad, the phrase indicates that a wine is 100 percent ‘German table wine’ and is used to distinguish it from other European countries using German-style labeling. Deutscher Tafelwein is Germany's lowest category of wine and must contain a minimum of 8.5% alcohol. The labels for such wine must indicate the name of one of Germany's broad growing regions-Bayern, Neckar, Oberhein, or Rhein-Mosel. All EC members must abide by these labeling conventions. When used by itself, the word Tafelwein on a label indicates that the wine is not German. The label should specify the country of origin.

To qualify for Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiet (QbA) status, a wine is tested by a local panel to ensure that it shows the typical character of an approved grape variety and of the region. In addition, the must (unfermented grape juice) needs to be a certain sugar level, and the wine must have a minimum alcohol content. The required sugar and alcohol levels vary from region to region and from variety to variety. QbA wines must come from one of the thirteen Anbaugebiete (quality wine regions) and cannot contain wine from any other region. The thirteen Anbaugebiete are Ahr, Baden, Franken, Hessische Bergstrasse, Mittelrhein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Nahe, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Rheinpfalz, Saale-unstrut, Sachsen, and Württemberg. Chaptalization (the addition of sugar) is allowed for QbA wines and is one of the major differences between these wines and higher quality QmP wines (most grapes with enough natural sugar go into QmP wines). The addition of sugar, which is converted into alcohol during fermentation, allows producers to reach the required minimum alcohol levels for a QbA wine. If a wine passes all the QbA requirements, an Amtliche Prüfungsnummer (official test number) is assigned. Abbreviated as A.P.Nr., this number is printed on the label, along with name of the Anbaugebiet. Additional information may be printed on a QbA wine label if other requirements are met. For instance, the name of the grape variety can be included if 85 percent of the grapes used to make the wine are that variety.

Qualitätswein mit Prädikat translates crudely to ‘quality wine with distinction’ or ‘quality wine with special attributes’. In addition to meeting the rules for QbA wines, QmP wines cannot have any sugar added, must be estate bottles (erzeugerabfüllung), and come from a defined bereich (district). There are five subcategories within the QmP category. Ranked from lowest to highest they are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, and Trockenberrenauslese. Each category is defined by a minimum sugar content of the grapes, which varies from region to region and from variety to variety. The focus on sugar content embodies the theory that grapes with higher sugar levels are riper and therefore yield richer wines with deep colors, intense flavors, and opulent bouquets.

The first and lowest of the subcategories of Qualitätswein mit Prädikat (QmP). Kabinett wines must contain minimum amounts of natural sugar (ranging from 67° to 85° oechsle, approximately 17 to 21 percent sugar by weight), depending on the region and the variety. These are the lowest minimums for QmP wines, and these wines are therefore usually the driest and least expensive. Do not make the mistake of thinking these are not excellent wines. In good and great years (like 2001) many Kabinett wines are almost Spätlese in their characteristics.

German for 'late picking', this wine term refers to grapes that are selectively picked at least 7 days after the main harvest starts for that specific variety. Because such fruit is riper than the grapes from the main harvest, it contains more sugar and produces wines that are rich and sweet. To attain the Spätlese category, the natural sugar content of the grapes must reach a certain minimum-76° to 95° oechsle, approximately 19 to 23 percent sugar by weight, depending on the region and the variety. The selective picking process makes Spätlese wines quite expensive.

The German word for 'selection'. Here the fruit are specially selected, perfectly ripened bunches of grapes that are handpicked and then pressed separately from other grapes. To attain the Auslese category, the natural sugar content of the grapes must reach a certain minimum (83 to 105° oechsle, approximately 20 to 25 percent sugar by weight), depending on the region and the variety. The grapes are often subject to botrytis cinerea (called Edelfäule in German), which can give them that extra push toward the high sugar levels. The superior wine made from these grapes is sweet and expensive and is generally categorized as a dessert wine.

The German term for 'selected berries'. This fruit is specially selected, overripe grapes that are handpicked and then pressed separately from other grapes. To attain the Beerenauslese category, the natural sugar content of the grapes must reach a certain minimum (110° to 128° oechsle, approximately 26 to 30 percent sugar by weight), depending on the region and the variety. The grapes are usually infected with botrytis cinerea, which shrivels them, thereby concentrating the sugar. The superior wine made from these grapes is very sweet but has enough acid for proper balance. Beerenauslese wines are quite rare, extremely expensive, and considered one of the world's top dessert wines. These wines will age for many years, during which they develop even more complexity.

5. Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)

The German term for 'dry selected berries'. This describes wines made from specially selected, overripe grapes that are left on the vine until nearly dry. Because these grapes are picked one by one at their fullest maturity they are very concentrated in flavor and sugar, and produce extremely rich, nectarous wines. To attain the Trockenbeerenauslese category, the natural sugar content of the grapes must reach a certain minimum (150 oechsle, approximately 35 percent sugar by weight), depending on the region and the variety. The grapes are usually infected with botrytis cinerea, which shrivels them and thereby concentrates the sugar. The superior wines made from these grapes are extremely sweet but have enough acid for proper balance. Because of the extraordinarily high sugar content, these wines frequently have trouble fermenting and often contain only 5.5 to 6 percent alcohol (from a potential of 21.5 percent or more if fermented dry). Trockenbeerenauslese wines are exceptionally rare, extremely expensive (even more than Beerenauslese wines), and considered to be one of the world's premier dessert wines. They will age for many years, during which time they'll develop even more complexity.

Lastly, we have the generally most expensive wines – the Eiswein, the German term meaning 'ice wine' – the rich, flavorful dessert wine. Made from frozen grapes, picked between December and February, this is Germany's rarest and sweetest wine. These wines can last for decades in the bottle due to their elevated levels of acidity. In the QmP system Eiswein falls between Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese. Eiswein is made by picking grapes that are frozen on the vine and then pressing them before they thaw. Because much of the water in the grapes is frozen, the resulting juice is concentrated, very rich in flavor and high in sugar and acid. The resulting wines, although different than Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslese, are similarly extraordinarily sweet, and yet again, balanced by high acidity. Eisweins are candidates for long aging. In order to qualify, a wine's must needs to reach the minimum natural sugar levels of Beerenauslese category wines-110° to 128° oechsle (approximately 26 to 30 percent sugar by weight), depending on the region and the variety.

To cater to some domestic preferences and export markets (see the Alsace notes and the recommended web link) there is now a new category of dry winemaking that is sanctioned under law. The 'dry' German wines are labeled either Trocken, very dry, or Halbtrocken, a slightly sweeter style where more residual sugar is allowed. For those with a liking for the drier styles there are some wines to be recommended – like the 2001 release from Bassermann-Jordan, which retails for about $20.

Although we will cover this more when we feature a whole tasting on the wines of Alsace there is no doubt that in terms of both producing food friendly wines and relatively affordable sensational drinking Alsace is the place to turn. Nestled in stunning countryside in northeastern France all of the major grapes of Alsace – Riesling, Tokay-Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer – produce stylish, aromatic and fruity dry whites that age wonderfully and can provide drinking pleasure for ten or more years. And all this from quite modestly priced cuvees. Like Germany and the United States the wines are labeled varietally.

Located on the German border in northeast France, Alsace consists of the modern French départments of Haut-Rhin and Bas-Rhin. As already notes Alsace is not your usual French winemaking region because of the extensive use of varietal labeling on the bottles. In fact it was the first French appellation to do so. Alsace also differs from other French winemaking regions because of its widespread German heritage. Germany ruled this region from 1870 until 1919, and its influence persists not only in the Germanic names, but also in the tall, slender, green Mosel like bottles and in the bias of the approved grape varieties – Gewürztraminer Riesling, Sylvaner, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Muscat. Unlike the Germans, however, Alsace winemakers make dry wines with higher alcohol content and usually with riper, more scented fruit. Almost all Alsatian wines are varietal wines and must be 100 percent of the chosen grape variety. The exception is Edelzwicker, which means 'noble wine', and consists of a blend of the approved white Alsace grape varieties. Pinot Noir is the only approved grape for red wine. Because this grape variety has difficulty in fully ripening in this climate (except during warmer years), Pinot Noir often appears as a rosé wine.

Since 1985 the very best Alsatian vineyards have been designated Alsace Grand Cru, a distinct appellation for which 51 vineyards have qualified so far. These vineyards are allowed to put 'Grand Cru' on their labels. Sparkling wines have their own appellation – Crémant d'Alsace ac. Late harvest wines, made from late-picked grapes with higher sugar levels and more pronounced flavors, are bottled under the appellation Alsace Vendange Tardive. A specialty of the Alsace region, the rich, extremely flavorful Vendange Tardive wines are usually vinified totally dry. Sélection de Grains Nobles are wines made with late harvest grapes that are affected by botrytis cinerea, which results in very sweet and concentrated wines. Alsace Grand Cru, Vendange Tardive, and Sélection de Grains Nobles appellation wines can be made only from Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Muscat.

Riesling produces very different styled wines in Alsace than it does in Germany. Alsatians prefer their Riesling dry, with more body than their German counterparts. Somewhat ironically one of the largest markets for Alsatian Rieslings is Germany! In Alsace Rieslings have a strong floral component, as well as the famous petroleum nose that sounds so horrendous but is actually one of the most sublime sensations I've ever come across in the wine world. Almost impossible to describe there is a mineral flintiness that is very different from the slatey, steely components of German Rieslings. On the palate Alsatian Rieslings are less floral than their German cousins, with considerable pineapple, honey and orange peel characteristics. A major constituent of the flavors come from the volcanic and limestone soil combined with the long, dry summers and the fact that the Vosges mountain range also shelters the land from moist west winds.

"I suspect that Riesling will worm its way into the affections of a new generation of wine drinkers not in German but in Australian form: dry and powerful rather than featherlight and fruity. Nowadays scores of truly fine examples of this noble wine type are available around the world. They can be drunk without food and are also much more delicious with many dishes than the ubiquitous Chardonnay, thanks to their racy acidity and lack of heavy oak character." – Jancis Robinson

Australia is probably the New World's best alternative to Alsace, Austria and Germany. It is particularly successful in two parts of South Australia – Eden Valley and Clare Valley. The Clare Valley Rieslings, in particular, display the heady petrol fumes that German and Alsace Rieslings tend to gain with bottle age. Despite some smoother angles, the most sensitively made Aussie Rieslings show good acid balance that maintains a sense of freshness without which any Riesling is doomed. Think about how fresh the Penfolds and Frankland Estate wines are when you try them – are they really over four years old?

The Eden Valley is a region of rugged beauty. It is rough, rocky country that belies its ability to produce wines of great delicacy and finesse. Eden Valley has long been recognized as one of the world's finest areas for Riesling production. Cool nights and the shallow slate and granite soils provide an ideal environment for fruit flavor development and concentration. As well as Riesling, high quality Chardonnay and elegant red wine, especially Shiraz, are found here. The Eden Valley is a cool climate region nestled between 400 and 600 meters in the Barossa Range. Ironically, Eden Valley is not actually a valley but takes its name from the township of the same name. The Valley has a rich history. Yalumba has substantial vineyard holdings, and a winery at Angaston, the site of the first vines planted by founder Samuel Smith in 1849. Henschke, well known for sparkling and white table wines was another pioneer estate established at Keyneton in the late 1860s. The return to table wines in the 1950s fostered a steady expansion in the region through the 80s and 90s. Amongst the modern day pioneers was David Wynn. He first planted Chardonnay on his property Mountadam in the area that is now in the High Eden Sub-region (the only sub-region of the valley). Being the highest point in Eden Valley, High Eden is also one of the coolest. Minerally, limey Riesling is produced here. The area was pioneered by Joseph Gilbert who established vineyards at Pewsey Vale, the highest point in the Eden Valley. This is fairly tough country to farm because of the hilly terrain and poor sandy soils. The climate also brings challenges to viticulturalists dealing with high winds and low growing season rainfall.

Nestled within the South Australian bush land, the vineyards of the Clare Valley are some of Australia's finest. Perfumed Riesling, delicate Semillon, aromatic Shiraz and elegant Cabernet Sauvignon are some of the highlights of this region. The Clare Valley is situated in the Mount Lofty Ranges 140 km north of Adelaide. Vineyards were first established in the valley in the mid 1800s and today vineyards and wineries are located throughout the valley along both sides of the highway which runs south to north though the townships of Auburn, Leasingham, Watervale, Penwortham, Sevenhill and Clare. The region has three sub-regions that are yet to be officially registered. They are the central Clare Valley that follows the Main North Road, the Skillogalee Valley that runs parallel to the west and the Polish Hill River area to the east. The consideration of sub-regions is an indication of the variations in temperature range related to altitude and soil types varying from the yellow/red podsolic in the hills to the brown/black earths on the valley floor. Low rainfall is also a factor that in the foundation period restricted growing to the moisture retentive soils of the central valley. Irrigation has enabled the spread of viticulture into the drier areas such as the hills.