Italy has long been known as a source of low-priced glugging wine best epitomized by the raffia-covered flasks we still find on some Chianti. While France has spent the last 150 years building a formidable reputation based on its rigid wine laws Italy was doing the opposite. As a result, until recently, Italy had fallen far behind France in the quality wine stakes. It has only been in the last twenty or so years, and largely because of increasing demand from American consumers, that wine quality has risen.

Italy has a chaotic, but slowly improving, set of wine laws that guarantee nothing but the origin of the wines. These are known as DOC or DOCG wines. Wines from a larger area, made under certain restrictions are known as IGT wines. These were created in response to wines like the so-called ‘Super Tuscans’ that utilized grapes that contravened existing DOC regulations.

Italy’s major wine regions are Tuscany and Piedmont, though fine wines come from many other regions today.

Tuscany produces the most famous Sangiovese wines in the world – the great Brunello di Montalcino, a 100% Sangiovese that takes at least 10 years to reach maturity, and the blends of the Chianti area. This area is also known for the aforementioned ‘super-Tuscans’ which added Cabernet Sauvignon to Sangiovese to produce a more austere, structured, and age-worthy wine. These ‘super-Tuscans’ sparked the quality revival in Italy. Sangiovese wines are known for aromas and flavors of red cherry, cold tea, herbs, and raspberry.

Piedmont, specifically Barolo and Barbaresco, are the home to the finest expressions of the temperamental Nebbiolo grape. Hard to grow and cultivate these are massive and highly tannic wines built for years in the cellar. Once they mature the rewards of patience are manifested in glorious aromas and flavors of truffle, prunes, roses, tobacco, leather and tar. The wines of Barolo tend to be more masculine and aggressive while the wines of Barbaresco are more feminine with wonderful perfumed aromas and elegance.

Major debate in Piedmont: there are now two ways of producing the great wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. The modern camp uses small oak barriques to age the wines that make them drinkable younger and add a creamy vanilla sheen to the wines. The old school still makes wines in the old manner, in large wood vats. These wines take a long, long time to reach maturity and are more austere and structured.

Barbera is the other major indigenous grape of Italy. Primarily found in Piedmont it is being grown in the more modern style which lowers its naturally high levels of acidity to produce the same food friendly wine in a more palatable style for the average American. A delicious wine when made well Barbera has lovely juicy flavors of cherry, plums and spice. The most complex and powerful wines are found in Barbera d’Alba while the wines of Barbera d’Asti are brighter with more elegance and finesse.

It is said that wine is taken for granted in Italy in the same sense that bread and olive oil is. These three ‘life essentials’ form what Italians call the Santa Trinità Mediterranea – the Mediterranean Holy Trinity. Wine accompanies every meal. In rural areas families grow their own grapes and make their own wine. Wine is everywhere. It would take an entire life of exploration to uncover just a little of what makes the heart of Italian winemaking beat. This humble information pack will just seek to cover the baby steps and offer a glimpse of what none of us will ever attain, a complete understanding of this conundrum of a country. To claim any semblance of true understanding would be absurd. While Bordeaux and Burgundy are certainly complex regions to understand there are certain principles and practices that hold true as one researches and more importantly, samples, their wonderful wines. The same holds true for California, where one can actually bear witness over a short period of time to the evolution and development of the wines of this emerging and protean region. But Italy is another creature altogether. It’s more emotional, more deeply ingrained in the culture, and hard and fast rules rarely apply. Some wines are fiercely traditional. Others have eschewed tradition and have made what many call international wines. So for every generalization presented here just imagine that it is followed with " but there are exceptions to this of course".

Italy is a diverse nation with an astounding geographical range. 40% of Italy is classified as mountainous. Another 40% of the land is designated as hilly. At the top of Italy one can peer into the heart of the Alps. Down south one looks out towards North Africa. Much like the country Italian wine has to be explored at the local level. I think the best piece of data that drives the point home is this. In the 1990s the Italians produced 20% of the world’s wine. Think about when you walk into a wine store in town. The Italian section in Parkhill’s – admittedly the best in town – is tucked away in the most remote corner of the store. The same goes for Ranch Acres. It’s in the back corner of the store. I can only guess that it’s because Italy is the most misunderstood of wine countries. You can’t go and pluck a wine of the shelf willy-nilly. You have to know what you are looking for. Again - one in every five bottles of wine. That’s pretty amazing isn’t it? In fact the Italians produce nearly as much wine as every other country outside of Europe – combined!

It is easy to forget that wine began as a simple peasant drink, made simply to enhance food at meal times. In our consumer age wine is seen very much as a status symbol – what have you drunk, what kind of collection do you have, do you have this and that on allocation? I’m reminded of this sad fact every time I peruse the web or visit the liquor stores in town and listen to what customers ask the clerks. But I hope that the majority of us remember that wine, however beguiling and seductive, is only a drink. Nowhere is that more true than in Italy. Our humble tasting will merely seek to crack open the door and have a quick peek in at Italian wine. To cover the best of Italian wines in Tulsa we’d need about $25 per head, if not more. Sadly, this is not Chile or Australia, both lands of superb value for money. We’ll look at the most prestigious regions – Piedmont and Tuscany – and also try a couple of wines from tried and trusted names in other parts of the country. With luck something will spark an interest in you – enough to give you an incentive to try the wines of Italy at some time in the future. I hope in the future that we organize a tasting of the more prestigious wines, or even a tastings of a range of the Chianti or Brunello wines – we don’t have to break the bank! Until then, we will have to be content with this tasting and our own explorations.

While the French AOC system is the most famous set of wine laws it was actually the Italians who were the first to formulate a set of wine laws. Back in Roman times no less there were a series of production codes for 16 appellations. In 1716 the Duchy of Tuscany delimited zones for important wine. However it wasn’t until the 1960s that Italy introduced laws of controlled origin that brought discipline and a sense of order to modern wine production. Unlike wine labels in the US, Australia, and other parts of the New World, the Italians are not obligated to list the grape types on the label, although this can happen. There are four levels of classification – DOC, DOCG, IGT and vino de tavolo. The most important information on the label, apart from the producer name perhaps, is the point of origin of the wine. To gain a geographical classification it has to be demonstrated that particular area – be it the soil, climate, winemaking tradition, etc – produces a style of wine different from another. At last count there are 334 official wine names in Italy. These are the DOC (313) and DOCG (21) wines. This covers about 2,000 types of wine but only counts for about 20% of production. In the coming years the Italians hope to raise this total, including the IGT wines, to 50%, a formidable task.

Open to huge interpretation, DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, or controlled or protected place name. DOCG means Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, or controlled and guaranteed place name. Every DOC or DOCG wine comes from a specific place that is defined by law, made from certain grape types, and aged for a certain length of time in barrels and/or bottle until release. In the final analysis wines from a DOC or DOCG should taste the way the law specifics, although the official tasting descriptions can be very loose. It’s a trade-off. The producer has certain liberties in what she or he can manufacturer while the consumer is afforded a pedigree or expectation in the wine. In theory at least.

Italian laws do allow for a high degree of latitude (much more so than the French). Winemakers who wish to experiment can produce IGT wines or even vino de tavolo. IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, or typical place name. There are 120 such IGT zones in Italy and this number is likely to increase in the future. IGT wines must simply state a broad geographical zone – for example Veneto, or Toscana, or Sicilia – and can contain grapes grown anywhere within this designated area. Vino de tavolo obviously translates as table wine. No point of origin, other than Italy, is listed, and neither the vintage nor the grapes used can be listed. This might be seen as a rather worrisome thought and today it might be. However, the first of the so-called ‘super-Tuscan’ wines were humble vino de tavolo as this category predated the IGT designation. More about this later.

So, can you tell what you are drinking in an Italian wine? Not necessarily. You can with a Rosso di Montalcino, a wine type we will be trying. It’s 100% Sangiovese. That’s nice and easy. However, switch to another DOC – Alto Adige. This classification can cover a huge permutation of wines – 51 in total! Some DOCs have sub-categories – wines can be labeled with a geographic sub-zone, a color note (red – rosso, white – bianco, rosé, sparkling – spumante), or even the grape varietal. Unfortunately, it’s a matter of mastering these various zones and learning the various permutations within them. Moreover, these designations are absolutely no guarantee of quality, although Italian wines are much better, in general, than they were ten and twenty years ago. And some superb wines, the first Super-Tuscans for example, because they were created before the IGT designation was created, carry the designation Vino de tavolo. Italian wine laws have sadly been a little slow in reacting to innovation and endeavor.

Vineyards are found in every corner of Italy and the sheer number of grape types found within these is breathtaking. However, the majority of the best indigenous Italian wines come from a relative small number of grapes that we will review here.

The most widely planted grape in Italy’s vineyards is also its most famous. This grape dominates the red wines of Tuscany and Umbria. It is the major grape of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montalcino and the only permitted variety in Brunello di Montalcino. Many of the so-called ‘Super-Tuscan’ wines have a large proportion of Sangiovese. Sangiovese has different tastes and aromas dependent upon where it is from like any wine. However, there are common denominators for this grape. Sangiovese generally has a medium red color, high acidity, firm tannins, and aromas and flavors of cherries, cold tea and herbs. Most examples are medium-bodied but lighter-bodied and more full examples are made. The most serious Sangiovese are capable of developing forest-floor aromas with age and a very seductive smoothness and harmony.

The grape found in two of Italy’s great wines – Barolo and Barbaresco – both from Piedmont in northwestern Italy. Nebbiolo produced full-bodied wines that are surprisingly light in color, with high acidity, high alcohol, and massive tannins. Nebbiolo, depending on site, age and other factors, produces wines with diverse aromas and flavors. If fruity there are strong strawberry and prune notes. If herbal, anise and mint dominate. Earthy examples display marked reminders of the earth with mushroom, white truffle and tar flavors. Nebbiolo can also produce wonderful floral wines with aromas and flavors with rose elements. And don’t forget, with age leather aromas and flavors come more to the fore. Nebbiolo wines can take years and years to mature and can live for decades. More approachable wines are being made for earlier drinking, within 4-6 years of the vintage, instead of the 10-12 years previously required.

Like Nebbiolo the best Barbera usually comes from Piedmont. Barbera wines are wonderfully rich in color, are highly acidic, have low, barely noticeable tannins, and are spicy and fruity on the nose and palate with terrific flavors of black fruits and spices. The finest examples are rarely blended and are most refreshing. As you might imagine Barbera is terrific with food.

Lesser, but nonetheless interesting grape types are as follows:

This is a major Italian grape that is rarely found in our shops in the US. Most of the wines produced from this grape hail from Campania (Taurasi) and Basilicata (Aglianico del Vulture) in Italy’s south. It is typically blended with other southern varieties to produce dark and quite potent wines.

A major grape of the Veneto this is the most important grape in Bardolino, Valpolicella, and Amarone. The wines are generally medium-bodied, highly acidic, with medium tannins. Red cherries and violets dominate.

An important grape in Piedmont, where it ripens earlier than other red varieties and produces the regions quaffing wines. Although the name means ‘little sweet one’ it wines rarely are, being quite dry but fruity, with medium tannins and good acidity.

Historic grape of the Alto Adige, where it makes perfumed and delightful reds and rosé wines.

Hailing from Emilia-Romagna this grape type has four major clones from which wine is made (these clones also provide some of the DOC names of the areas). Although much derided in the USA by wine snobs good examples of this grape produce acidic, medium tannin wines with spicy, red fruit flavors.

A grape from central and southern Italy (Marche and Abruzzi mainly) this grape produces medium-bodied wines with unique vegetal, smoky, and red fruit flavors.

Widely planted in Puglia the name means ‘black and bitter’. It makes flavorful, highly alcoholic wines.

Known as Calabrese in its native Calabria, it has come to the fore in Sicily where it grows as Nero d’Avola. Nero makes deeply colored, full-bodied, medium tannin wines with tremendous flavors of herbs and ripe fruits.

A major grape in the south, especially Puglia. Genetic research has shown one clone, Primitivo di Manduria, to be the same as Zinfandel. Like its American cousin Primitivo wines are deeply colored with spicy, ripe berry flavors and a high alcohol content.

Grown in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, this variety makes smooth textured, medium- to full-bodied wines with distinct plum notes.

Produces dark, age-worthy, intense wines from Umbria in Montefalco Sagrantino.

Most widely planted grape in the Alto Adige where it makes light- to medium-bodied quaffing red wines.

Major grape of the Trentino sub-region where it makes fresh and tasty light red wines. Similar to Lagrein.

If you glance at a map of Italy you can see how remote Piedmont is. Surrounded by mountains on three sides travel to and from the region must have proved difficult until the highways that slice through the mountains were built. As a result Piedmont has held on to its local food and wine traditions very well. Although Piedmont is Italy’s second largest region only 30% of the land is suitable for growing grapes for wine and good vineyards are very expensive. The climate is continental with cold winters and hot dry summers. Piedmont is famous for the mild autumns and the heavy fog, particularly in the south, which is very useful when it comes to ripening the Nebbiolo grapes that make the region famous. Piedmont’s best wines come from two areas – the foothills of the Alps in the north or the foothills of the Apennine Mountains in the south.

Piedmont makes more DOC/DOCG wine than any other region in Italy with upwards of 85% of its wine falling into these categories. It total Piedmont has 50 DOC and 7 DOCG zones. The most famous of these are in south central area around the town of Alba, including two of Italy’s most renowned – Barolo and Barbaresco.

Perhaps the well-worn phrase of Barolo as the ‘King of Wines’ is deserved, perhaps not. However, one cannot argue that a great Barolo can hold its own with any other great wine of the world. All Barolos are made from 100% Nebbiolo. Tannic and fierce in its youth, great Barolo wines ease into maturity with wonderful flavors and aromas of roses, prunes, strawberries, mint, tobacco and white truffles (amongst others). The key to growing great Barolo in this area is the climate and the soils. The soil is primarily marly, a type high in alkaline which tempers the searing acidity that is a feature of Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo also ripens very slowly so long fairly hot summers are necessary as well as the mild autumns. When the weather is uncooperative the resulting wines can be harsh and brutal.

Five communities in Barolo produce most of the wines in this tiny DOCG zone – La Morra, Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, and Monforte d’Alba. The wines from Serralunga d’Alba, Castiglione Falletto, and Monforte d’Alba, which are all found in the Serralunga Valley, are produced from soils that are very rich in sand, limestone, iron, potassium and phosphorous. This results in wines that are both fuller-bodied and more tannic and austere than wines from other communities. These wines tend to take 10-15 years to reach maturity in solid vintages. The wines of the Central Valley (La Morra and Barolo) are typically readier to drink sooner, within 7-10 years of the vintage. These wines are normally a little more refined and elegant – with more white truffle perfume, less body, and softer tannins. Much of these characteristics can be attributed to the magnesium oxide, clay and manganese rich soils. As you’ll remember of course there are exceptions to every rule and there are producers who use traditional winemaking techniques in the Central Valley to produce more austere wines than is the norm, and producers in Serralunga who soften their wines to make them drinkable earlier in life.

Barolo has been on the rise for a number of years thanks to improvements in vineyard management. Grapes are now picked at greater maturity than in the past, and more and more winemakers are adopting more severe pruning practices to lower yields and raise the basic quality of the grapes grown. Indeed winemakers in Barolo have any modern winemaking technique at their disposal but they are restricted by the legal parameters of the DOCG laws. Specifically, the wine must be aged for a minimum of three years before release (and five years for the reserve – riservas – wines). However, two very different approaches to making Barolo exist today. Although these divisions are not as large as they were ten years ago, with concessions on both sides, one can still find two basic differences in production techniques.

The traditional methodology produces a highly tannic, full-bodied wine that requires years and years of aging. A long maceration of the skins in the juice – sometimes 20 days or more – both before and after fermentation is followed by aging in large old oak barrels. Some of the most traditional Barolo producers used to age their wine for ten years or more! The modern approach, championed by the likes of Angelo Gaja, attempts to make Barolo more palatable and drinkable at an early age. The wines are more fruit forward with sweeter tannins and a creamier overall taste. Fermentation is shorter (10 days or less), barriques (new oak) is employed for part of the aging process, and the wines are ready to drink much sooner – within 5-6 years. The trade-off, if you want to call it that, is that these wines don’t last as long, maybe only 20-30 years!

Knowing what Barolo wines to buy can be a terrifying prospect for wine novices and even serious wine geeks. First off, the wines are produced in such tiny quantities (less than half a million cases per year, tiny even compared to Burgundy), that they are hard to find. Second, they’re expensive – at least $35-40 for even the so-called second tier producers. And lastly, you have to sit on them for a few years before they are ready to drink. It’s not like a few of us can throw in $20-30 each and go to a local store and have a mini-tasting. It’s not going to happen like that. The best approach is to familiarize yourself with the best producers, much like Burgundy and Bordeaux, know what kind of Barolo they produce, and proceed from there.

Top Names: Elio Altare, Ceretto, Aldo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, Luigi Einaudi, Angelo Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Elio Grasso, Icardi, Bartolo Mascarello, Giuseppe Mascarello, Luigi Pira, Giuseppe Rinanldi, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino, Vietti, Roberto Voerzio.

Other fine producers: Marziano & Enrico Abbona, Brovia, Enzo Boglietti, Tenuta Carretta, Ceretto, Michele Chiarlo, Clerico, Podere Colla, Corino, Elio Grasso, Fontanafredda, Silvio Grasso, Manzone, Marchesi di Barolo, Oddero, Pio Cesare, Luigi Pira, Prunotto, Revello, Francesco Rinaldi, Seghesio, Mauro Veglio, Gianni Voerzio.

Just ten miles away from the communities of Barolo to the northeast of Alba sits Barbaresco, the younger sibling, if you will, of Barolo. Made entirely from Nebbiolo as well, and sharing similar soils and production techniques, Barbaresco is a sturdy, austere wine, slightly less full-bodied than Barolo, with slightly less aging required – only two years, and four years for the riservas. Barbaresco covers only three communities – Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso d’Alba – all high in the Langhe hills. Nebbiolo ripens earlier here than in Barolo as the area is warmer and drier. As a result the tannins are less pronounced. Stylistically Barbaresco wines are more elegant and refined than the wines of Barolo and ready to drink sooner after the vintage. Another important difference is the overall quality of the producers – it’s very high. With few real duds from this region most bottles, especially from a good vintage, should be delightful. While the soils in Barbaresco are generally similar there are differences in the various communities. Neive produces the most full-bodied and tannic Barbaresco. Accounting for 30% of production, the most famous producer in Neive is Bruno Giacosa who still makes wines in the traditional style that require long cellaring. Barbaresco itself produces 45% of the total Barbaresco output and is home to the most famous of the regions producers – the likes of Gaja and Ceretto. These wines are a tad lighter and less full-bodied than those of Neive, but are known for their perfumed aromas and excellent structure. Treiso d’Alba is the least renowned of the Barbaresco communities, but produces wine of considerable charm and elegance. They are also the lightest of the three.

Barbaresco is expensive stuff, with retail prices starting at about $40 per bottle and skyrocketing to over $300 for Gaja’s prestigious releases. With only about 2.5 million bottles per year in total production supply is very limited. Like Barolo the trick is to buy the wines of recommended producers – when you can find them.

Top Names:

Ceretto, Fratelli Cigliuti, Angelo Gaja, Bruno Giacosa, Marchesi di Gresy, Pio Cesare, Prunotto, Albino Rocca, La Spinetta.

Other fine producers:

Luigi Bianco, Ca’ Romé, Castello di Neive, Giuseppe Cortese, De Forville, Moccagatta, Fiorenzo Nada, Sorì Paitin, Parroco di Neive, Pelissero, Produttori del Barbaresco, Albino Rocca, Bruno Rocca, La Spinona.

Angelo Gaja has the highest profile of any grower in Piedmont, and rightly so. Few men have his amazing energy and promotional skills. Without Gaja’s efforts Barbaresco and Barolo wines would be less well known than they are today. Making wines with no previous reference point this maverick and genius makes wines on his own terms, in terms of style, techniques, grapes and price. The 85 hectares of vines Gaja cultivates produce 30,000 cases per year of Barbaresco and other Alba wines, including a Barolo, a Cabernet Sauvignon (Darmagi), two Chardonnays (Gaia & Rey) and a long-lived Sauvignon Blanc. Since the mid-1990s Angelo Gaja has dropped the Barbaresco and Barolo designation from his single vineyard wines much to the consternation of many traditionalists. This has allowed him to pick super-ripe Nebbiolo and then blend in about 5-8% (it varies with the vineyard site and vintage of course). Gaja believes this gives his wines more freshness and focus.

Dolcetto and Barbera are the two other major red grapes of Piedmont. Dolcetto is rich, fruity and supple – the opposite of Nebbiolo – and produces wine that last about 5 years. Barbera, traditionally too acidic for American palates, are increasingly being made in a more opulent style, with treatment in new oak. Naturally many of these wines are expensive. Of the major international grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are being found more and more and can produce profound as well as insipid wines – just like everywhere else these noble grapes are found. Interestingly, Piedmont has rejected the introduction of IGT zones and so wines made from the international grapes or with innovative winemaking techniques are now classed under DOC names – mostly as Piemonte DOC, Langhe DOC and Monferrato DOC. Piedmont’s most famous white wines are the wines made with Cortese di Gavi. The finest of these expensive wines have lemon and flint tastes and aromas and are medium bodied. For those lucky enough to stumble across them Piedmont’s Arneis wines are voluptuous and fruity, quite full-bodied and soft in the mouth. Piedmont’s best white wine value is found in the Moscato d’Alba wines. These tend to be fizzy and slightly sweet – so perfect for many American drinkers. When well made these are crisp and fragrant wines with apricot and floral notes.

Nebbiolo is perhaps the trickiest grape in the wine world to appreciate for two very good reasons. First, in their finest manifestations, they require years and years to reach maturity – 20 and 30 years at the very least –

for the very finest wines. Second, Nebbiolo demands, and I mean hollers for, good hearty food to accompany it. We’re not talking wimpy cheese and crackers, or ham sarnies, or anything remotely petite. As with all Italian wine food is a key accompaniment – why endure the high acidity in the wines else? Rabbit, pigeon, pheasant, beef, or white truffles even, are all essential to enjoying the peaks that Nebbiolo can scale with Barolo and Barbaresco.

Nebbiolo might well be the only wine to which one applies the word haunting to its aroma. But with the finest examples it is an apt description. As we’ve already alluded to the best Nebbiolo exhibits copious aromas of tar and roses. Truffles, dark chocolate, damsons, herbs, leather, spices, licorice and sometimes even blackberry and tobacco can be added to the list of secondary scents. Without question Nebbiolo produces some of the most exotic and perfumed red wine anywhere. When mature any Nebbiolo, whether produced in the more modern friendly-style or in the older traditional manner, should be supple and lithe in the mouth. One should pick up in the flavors the aforementioned scents, in a different order of expression, but there nonetheless. The tannins should have softened to a secondary sensation, there should be good acidity, and the acidity must in balance with the alcohol and fruit.

Nebbiolo is highly sensitive to climate. Indeed, it might be the most important component of making good Nebbiolo wines. Being an early budder Nebbiolo is subject to a poor fruit set and so must be sheltered from cold and wind. Thus Nebbiolo grows best in altitudes between 450-900 feet on south- and southwestern facing slopes. Higher than this and it is too cool for the grapes to ripen. Nebbiolo also dislikes rain and it is no surprise that the best vintages are those that are warm and dry in September and October as the grape ripens. In fact it is almost a miracle that Nebbiolo can grow in Piedmont given its continental climate of a hot summer and cold winters. However, attempts to grow Nebbiolo in warmer climes like Australia and California have proven frustrating with few good wines to show for years of experimentation and hard work. Perhaps Piedmont’s success is that despite the continental climate it shows little climactic variation from year to year.

Nebbiolo can cope, and excel, in a number of soil types in northwest Italy, although it is clearly at its peak on the limestone soils around Alba. The soil type is reflected in the wines. In Roero, on the opposite side of the river Tanaro River than the Langhe vineyards, the wines are earlier maturing than other sites, likely due to the sandy soils and higher pH levels. Other fine sites for Nebbiolo outside of Barolo and Barbaresco include Gattinara and Ghemme. These are lighter styled wines, and again this is again down to the soil – here they are porphyry and acidic.

Approximately 40 types of Nebbiolo have been identified but the most widely found are this trio – Lampia, Michet and Rosé. Rosé, as the name suggests, is pale in color and is not hugely popular for Nebbiolo is a grape lacking color at the best of times. Lampia has good color but sometimes yields too much, a problem when trying to produce concentrated wines. Lastly, Michet, a genetic mutation of Lampia, produces smaller bunches than Lampia and also lower more concentrated yields. Most producers like to work with a mixture of these three primary types, as well as clones that have developed based on these three. While DOGC regulations allow for the 8 tonnes of fruit per hectare most good producers, especially in the Langhe, crop at about half of this.

Winemaking Techniques – covered in the specific Barolo & Barbaresco sections above.

Nothing evokes more controversy in Italian wine circles than the illegal addition of other grapes to Barolo and Barbaresco wines. In 1998 there was a proposal to add between 10-15% of other red grapes, be they indigenous or international, to Barbaresco to round it out, make it more palatable in lesser vintages, and so on. The growers of Barolo declined, the idea received bad press, and so the idea was quietly dropped. However, for years, on the quiet, there has been much suspicion and pointing of fingers at growers for adding Syrah and Cabernet to their wines, especially, and ironically, given their attitude to the Barbaresco proposal, in Barolo. Such suspicions have been based on the deep color of some of the wines, as well as unusual aromas (i.e. those of Syrah and Cabernet). No one has admitted anything, but of course in wine circles such practices and the illegal tampering with the wines is actually fairly commonplace.

In other Nebbiolo producing areas the opposite is happening. Across the Tanaro River from Barolo and Barbaresco, Roero producers are supposed to add between 2-5% of the white grape Arneis to the blends but many don’t bother these days. In northern Piedmont, especially in Ghemme and Gattinara, other red grapes are required for the final blends as well, but again, this is being ignored routinely.

Roero (DOC) – produces lighter, less tannic and more supple wines than the two Bs. However, on occasions, in the right vintage conditions and with the right winemaker, it can produce bigger, brawnier, and more complex wines. This area is better known for producing fine whites from the Arneis grape.

Nebbiolo d’Alba (DOC) – from much the same area as Roero these wines are even simpler and early maturing. Quality is variable, but they can be fine, full and rich nonetheless. Interestingly sweet and sparkling versions are allowed.

Gattinara (DOCG) – These wines can include up to 10% of the grape type Bonarda. Gattinara can be a fine, if rarely, great wine. The best wines develop a fine, silky-textured perfume and a graceful violet-perfumed finesse when mature. Overcropping can be a problem.

Ghemme (DOC) – Produced on the left side of the banks of the Sesia River (opposite Gattinara in fact), this appellation can present good value as it is viewed as inferior to its more highly regarded DOCG cousin but actually produces more consistent wines and rarely has the overcropping problems that Gattinara does. As well as Nebbiolo, Vespolina and Bonarda can be added to the final blend. Ghemme’s wines have as much color and richness as those of Gattinara, and generally has a richer bouquet and more elegant fruit.

In terms of sensual excitement does any other place on earth match central Italy? The glories of Florence and Rome, not to forget Siena, Pisa, San Gimignano and Montalcino. The beautiful Adriatic and Mediterranean coastlines. The magnificent food. The olive groves stretching for miles and miles. The fascinating history. And the wine? We will be looking briefly at beautiful Tuscany, where the modern Italian wine revolution began. Although still based around the major grape of the region – Sangiovese – winemakers are turning to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in increasing numbers to produce more international wines. Indeed the producers of the wines of Chianti can now add a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon in order to add structure and weight to the traditional red grapes of Chianti – Sangiovese and Canaiolo. Sadly, the two white blending grapes – Trebbiano and Malvasia – are still permitted, but the better producers generally avoid them. Many lament this internalization of Tuscany’s wines, while others embrace it, especially the American market. However, the fact is that grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon have been grown in Tuscany for years and have been part of side projects for generations.

Tuscany covers an area close to the size of New Hampshire and is Italy’s fifth largest region. In terms of landscape it is a hilly region with areas of high elevation which temper the high summer heat. Only Sicily and Apulia have more land planted with vines. But for all this seven regions in Italy produce more wine. Tuscany is a region devoted to quality rather than quantity. It was here in the 1970s that the Chianti producers decided to get serious again with their wines and the quality revolution that resulted has now spread to most parts of the country. Tuscany produces more DOC level wine than anywhere else apart from Piedmont and the Veneto, with 50% of the wine being DOC or DOCG level.

The major appellations of Tuscany are Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti Classico. Both areas produce superb Sangiovese based wines, some would argue the best Sangiovese that has been made, but these great wines come with expensive price tags. We’ll be sampling wines from what might be called the second level of Tuscany – a smaller Chianti producing region and, as it is hard to find ready to drink Brunello di Montalcino on the shelves, its younger sibling – Rosso di Montalcino.

The heart of Italian winemaking lies in Chianti, and Chianti Classico in particular. In Chianti itself there are two DOCG regions – Chianti Classico and the Chianti DOCG that is divided into the following sub-regions: Chianti Colli Senesi, Chianti Colli Aretini, Chianti Montalbano, and Chianti Rufina. Rufina wines are widely available in the US but perhaps the best overall quality of this DOCG is found in Chianti Colli Senesi. Extending south and west of the Classico zone it is the largest of the sub-zones. It covers land around San Gimignano, Montalcino, and Montepulciano, and of course each of these areas are famous for superb wines in their own right. However, many producers produce a Chianti Colli Senesi wine. Because of the warm microclimate producers can make wines that are generally a little more full-bodied than typical Chianti.

The Classico area covers 100 square miles between Florence and Siena. Close to 700 grape growers cultivate the approximately 25,000 acres of vineyards. Although not a large area in viticultural terms there are large differences in soil types over the region which account for some of the differences in the wines made. The soils close to Florence and richer than those in the south, which tend to be stony and hard in some parts and clay dominated in other areas. Also, there is a large difference in the altitude of the vineyards (over 1100 feet), and the distance from the Arno River also plays a part in the make-up of the physiology of the grapes. As noted earlier it is very hard to make generalizations about any Italian region these days. This is particularly true for Chianti Classico. Modern winemaking styles can override terroir in many cases. The addition of Cabernet Sauvignon adds austerity and structure to the wine throwing the old order out of the window. However, classic Chianti Classico does have some common factors. Good examples tend to creep up on you with medium tannins, a firm structure and medium- to full-bodied aromas and flavors of ripe cherry, juicy plums, a hint of raspberry, and some herb and floral notes. These are not wines that overpower or delight from the first sip, but reward a little patience in the mouth as the wine works its way to the back of the palate. Indeed I’ve always found that Chianti Classico, especially a mature one, is a wine that hits you after a few sips when you finally appreciate what fine juice you are drinking.

While it was the Grand Duke of Tuscany who created some of the first modern Italian winemaking zones, including Chianti, in 1716, it was actually Bettino Ricasoli, the Count of Brolio, who produced the first modern Chianti. Winemaking lore tells of the Counts endless weeks and months locked away in his castle in the 1840s until he came up with the first archetypal Chianti – a three part blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and the white grape Malvasia.

I’ve tried to avoid being critical of the Italian wine laws until now because it is complicated system and listing its flaws would take pages and pages of analysis. However, when you think about it, Chianti is a horribly regulated region that speaks volumes about the state of the Italian wine industry. The good and great wines within it are simply not easy enough to identify and granting DOCG status to the whole region makes no sense. What a golden opportunity to at least make some guarantees of quality. Think about Bordeaux and Burgundy. It’s almost as much about the marketing as the wines. These regions are made up of clearly defined appellations with classified growths within them. While certainly not perfect you can forgive the relatively average quality of most of wines classified as Bordeaux or Cru Bourgeois because you know this is not supposed to be the really top-notch stuff. With Chianti Classico there are vast differences in the quality of the wines. Some are excellent. Many are horrendous. It is simply too irregular. However, some advancements have been made. Since being granted DOCG status the quantity of white grapes have been reduced. Up to 15% Cabernet Sauvignon can be added. All Chianti other than Classico must contain at least 75-90% Sangiovese and since 1995 Classico can consist of 100% Sangiovese. And since the DOCG regulations raised the amount of Cabernet from 10% to 15% many of the wines that had carried the IGT designation (the ‘super-Tuscans’) have come back into the DOCG fold. However, wouldn’t it be simply better to create an all-embracing umbrella for all of Tuscany’s wines? The finer appellations – the Chianti Classicos, the Brunellos, the Vino Nobiles, could be elevated to the equivalent status of first growth areas and critics could judge these areas accordingly. Under such a system the generic Chianti wines would be forgiven, accepted, perhaps even embraced for what they are. Not that attempts like this haven’t been made. But the powerful and large producers, keen to protect the status quo, have simply been too powerful to allow an overhauling of the DOC system. Tinkering at the edges is all that is being done right now and perhaps over time this will be enough. Maybe Italy is simply not destined to enjoy the prominence with the average wine consumer that Bordeaux does. Like Riesling amongst other white wines perhaps the great red wines of Italy will remain as high priced cult wines for those in the know.

Brunello is made from one of the best clones of the Sangiovese grape. Created back in the nineteenth century by the Biondi-Santi family and then produced by a handful of other winemakers it has only been since the end of WWII that this wine has come to attention of the wider world. When Clemente Santi began to make his revolutionary 100% Sangiovese, Sangiovese was typically blended with other grapes for easy and early drinking, as in Chianti at the time. Indeed Santi isolated specific Sangiovese clones that would be the most suited to producing age-worthy wines. The Sangiovese clones that grow in the Montalcino area are believed to be distinct from any other Sangiovese types, specifically adapted to the district in which it now grows. The combination of superior grape types, particular climate, and the hillside aspects of the vineyards have created possibly the best place on earth to grow Sangiovese.

Brunello is one of Tuscany’s great wines, well it’s greatest actually. Typically deeper and richer with a fuller body than Chianti the best Brunellos evoke aromas and tastes of black cherry and herbs and need years and years to evolve. There is no other Sangiovese that matches the color, body, extract, tannin and richness of a Brunello. Under the DOCG regulations the wine has to be aged three years in the cask before release. In order to make earlier drinking wines the Rosso di Montalcino DOC was created. Under this appellation the wine only requires one year of aging.

Not quite up the same high standards of Chianti Classico or Brunello di Montalcino, but still very good, is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Again made from Sangiovese and its blending partners (not Cabernet), these wines, which require two years in cask, are wonderfully intense with licorice, herbs and lots of black fruits. Much like Brunello there is a lesser DOC designation – Rosso di Montepulciano – for wines aged for only one year.

Whether one likes the internationalism of Italy’s wines and the increasing vineyard land given over to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc we must tip our hats to the so-called ‘super-Tuscans’ for raising the quality bar and setting new goals and aspirations for all Italian winemakers. There is no official category of ‘super-Tuscan’ of course, it’s a convenient labeling/marketing term. A little history is thus in order. The wines that came to be known as ‘super-Tuscans’ contain a high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, at the time forbidden in some DOC wines. Thus they could only be labeled as humble vino de tavolo. But the story is not as modern as you might think. Back in the early 1940s the Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta moved from Piedmont to the Tuscan coast and planted some plots of Cabernet Sauvignon there. These reputedly came from the vineyards of Lafite-Rothschild no less. I suppose being a good Francophile and all he figured he’d have a crack at growing Cabernet there, plus I’m sure the local wines were probably just swill anyway. The first wines were produced in 1948, were named Sassicaia, and were served to guests on the estate. This went on for 20 years until the wine was distributed through their cousin’s distribution chain. After that all hell broke loose. Much like the famed tastings in France in 1976 in which the Californians Cabs and Chards beat out the finest the French could offer, a tasting in London in 1972 showcased the brilliant Sassicaia, and overnight this wine became one of the most expensive wines in the world. What is perhaps most humorous is that this was essentially an amateur wine and at the time only yielded 6,000 cases per annum. Much like Darwin and Wallace’s discovery of the theory of evolution at around the same time, Piero Antinori, the modern father of the ‘super-Tuscan’, decided to make his first non-DOC wine. Released in 1978 the 1971 Tignanello was a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. This move set the scene for other producers to follow suit. As we’ve seen the IGT designation was eventually created, recognizing these wines, and Cabernet was finally allowed into the red grapes permitted under the Chianti DOC regulations. But it took a few brave souls to begin the modern Italian winemaking revolution. Today wines from Chianti can be 100% Sangiovese (it used to be a maximum of 70%) and up to 15% Cabernet can be added to the final blends. Today the oaky, fruity, international style of Sangiovese sits side by side with its more traditional cousins.

About twenty years ago, and I’m being pretty brutal here, the majority of Chianti wines were rubbish. The mere mention of Chianti, or even Brunello di Montepulciano and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, probably elicited disdain from the average well informed wine imbiber. I mean these wines were dire, just terrible. Use any bad descriptor you want – tart, lean, miserable, washed out. Antiquated laws meant that Chianti wines could be made up of substantial proportions of white Malvasia or Trebbiano, rather than mostly Sangiovese. To make matters worse, to add color and alcohol to these blends, grapes were trucked in from the south (Puglia and Sicily). The vineyards were poorly cared for making it nearly impossible to produce good quality grapes, especially for a late ripener like Sangiovese. The situation was dire and unsurprisingly Italy fell far behind France in the quality stakes. How things have changed since then. Some Tuscan growers and producers obviously felt enough was enough and that the situation had to change. And since the 1980s it has. Now the names Chianti, Brunello di Montepulciano and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano can stand for some of Italy’s finest and most challenging red wines. Utilizing modern winemaking techniques, low-yielding vineyards, and new oak barriques, the best wines from these sub-regions are austere and arrogant wines, with no soft New World edge to be found anywhere. As Oz Clarke has noted "as Bordeaux becomes more and more homogenized in its flavors, perhaps Tuscany with its Sangiovese will become the new Mecca for those red wine lovers who demand a little pain with their pleasure."

Sangiovese, although it can produce light, fruity wines as well as more serious examples, is not an easy grape to cultivate. Being an early budder and late ripener means that a long dry and warm growing season is preferred. Sadly in the marginal areas where it has so far been most successful the optimum growing conditions only come along three or four years in every decade. Improved winemaking has alleviated some of these stresses but making fine and age-worthy wines in these conditions is something to be applauded and commended. In Chianti late September rains often spoil the crop.

Soils in Tuscany are highly varied. In the Classico area of Chianti the soil is known as galestro, a friable, shaly clay type. In Brunello there are two major soils, galestro and limestone. Both soil types produce the most full-bodied wines with lots of flavor. Both the Colli Senesi and Colli Aretini appellations lie on clay that leads to a slightly less distinct, simpler, wine. As you head east toward to coast the soil becomes predominantly sandier. Sangiovese does less well in this type, although of course there are exceptions.

Most of the most shocking Sangiovese wines are made using the Sangiovese Romano clone. The better winemakers use clones that go by local names. Examples are Sangioveto, Prugnolo, and Brunello. All of these produce a much more satisfying wine – richer, deeper, and more complex.

As with most other places in the world it seems today Sangiovese is picked later – up to 2 weeks later in some places – which allows the grapes to ripen better (as long as the rot inducing rains are avoided). Maceration time has also been increased, and the use of new oak has proved to be successful, certainly allowing older wines to mellow nicely.

It’s a simple fact of life that the Tuscans have to blend Sangiovese and there is no shame in that fact – don’t the winemakers of Bordeaux grow their crops of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc for that very reason? The winemakers of Bordeaux would struggle to make pure varietal wines just as the Tuscans have. Sangiovese typically struggles to ripen and so the addition of other grapes, and in the modern age, Cabernet Sauvignon, makes complete sense. Sangiovese also lacks color because of its low production of acylated anthocyanins, so other grapes come in hand here as well.

The one trade-off, and it’s a small but important one given the dramatic quality leaps of the past twenty years, is the simple fact that there is no single identifiable Sangiovese from Tuscany anymore. Traditional Chianti tasted of cold tea, herbs, violets and bitter cherries. There was quite a lot of tannin and high acidity as well. Today, the wines are more likely to be fuller-bodied, with softer tannins, and the acidity, balanced by the greater, fuller fruit flavors. The very international styles have a preponderance of plum, black cherry, and mulberry flavors and the use of new oak adds vanilla and spice notes to the wine. When Cabernet is added to the blend I’ve always been of the opinion that the Sangiovese component falls to the background. Such wines tend to have the classic marks of a Cabernet, especially blackcurrant.

Most Chianti is made to be consumed when young, within 3-5 years of release. Vino Nobile di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino usually hits its stride within 4-5 years and can last a decade. Chianti Riservas, aged for an additional year in cask, begins to peak at about 5-6 years and can last up to 20 years, but only from a top vintage and when stored well. Most super-Tuscans and Brunello di Montalcino need a good fives year to develop, perhaps as many as 8-10 in a terrific year like 1997, and come into their own after approximately 12-15 years.

Sangiovese almost demands food. Perfect foils for a good Sangiovese include any roast meats, grilled steaks, especially T-Bone steaks, game, calves’ liver, mushrooms, casseroles, pizza, and hearty pasta dishes. Tomato sauce based dishes work particularly well with Sangiovese as its acidity cuts right through the sauce.

It is impossible to give general vintage information on Italy as the nation is so vast. As we are focussing principally on Piedmont and Tuscany vintage information for these areas is listed below. Recommended years are underlined and in bold.

2002 – Early reports indicate that after seven super to excellent vintages Piedmont’s luck has finally run out. Hail damage in Barolo, heavy rain elsewhere. Avoid all but the best producers.

2001 – Best for Nebbiolo and Barbera. Classic, firm wines. Old school wines in Barolo and Barbaresco. Will require aging to temper the fierce tannins, at least ten years.

2000 – Excellent in Barolo and Barbaresco but late season rains spoiled potentially classic vintage. Good to very good elsewhere.

1999 – Delicious Dolcetto is at its peak now. In Barolo and Barbaresco a year of elegant and fragrant wines, built to last. On par with 1996 and 1997, though not 1995.

1998 – A hot summer was tempered by light autumn rains. Another very sound year with good to very good quality.

1997 – A hot dry summer with an early autumn led to Barolo and Barbaresco with unusually soft tannins. The best of the international styled wines beginning to reach peak of drinking. Nebbiolo picked before Barbera, which is almost unheard of.

2002 –Dilution and rot is widespread after frequent fall rains and freak tornadoes. Decent wines at best. Best to avoid all but best producers but perhaps some bargains to be had for early consumption. However, not a year to cut your teeth on Tuscany.

2001 – A hot August, very cool September, and then humidity late on produced an irregular year with some tremendous wines but also some clangers. Care.

2000 – A very, very hot summer led to one of the earliest vintages in recent times. The wines can be alcoholic and unbalanced (overripeness and raisining) but there is great potential.

1999 – Great long growing season. A year of enormous potential, especially for the Brunello di Montalcino. Sangiovese grapes picked before the September rains show great color and high sugar levels.

1998 – A long, hot summer and late rains. Best along the coast. Tannic Chianti Classico but sound Brunello di Montalcino.

1997 – Terrific year with a near perfect growing season. Balanced and full wines. Could be called a classic vintage.