Here is some stuff of my 1984.5  VW Westfalia Vanagon , and other crap. It is still a work in progress.

(The site or the van...take your pick.......)

Getting prepped for a road trip

My Bizarre-O Logic:

I had a Camper 10 + years before I got this one; another 84 old school two-tone. You either love em or hate with that color, and I missed it, but I hated the motor, and dealing with the dealer was your only option where I lived at the time, where else could you go then and it was also before the internet for accurate information. I had been lurking on www.vanagon.com  awhile, and the itch was getting too great, I had to get another one, I was getting back into camping, and my logic, was that a Westfalia® money pit was better than a $20.00 K-mart tent, yeah I know bad thinking on my part. But when it's raining, away from home, and cold outside they can't be beat. So when I found out there were engine conversions out there and the wealth of information from the list…What the hell, here I go again with another money pit. The two best days for a Westfalia owner; the day he buys his van, and the day he gets rid of it.

History:

I bought the van in 2002 from a buy-here/pay here car-lot on E-bay in Nashville, Tennessee. I was excited to get her (The van seems to have a female” butch” personality, yeah weird I know, but it seems the more gifts I buy her the more she likes it, but to a point). But  anywho. I was excited to get her, VW® Campers in the south are harder to find than hen’s teeth (Whatever in the hell that means). I went to go pick it up with a car trailer. 350 miles later, and a blown trailer tire. When I got there I knew why I got it so cheap for $2200. tax included. They had taken pictures of all the good angles, and none of the pictures told the whole picture or the truth, out of scale 1-10, it was 4.0. The canvas was shot, body work was horrible, (seam rust), the tables were missing, half the door handles were missing, rear hatch would knock your head off when left open, carpet was so black I didn’t know they were brown until I pressure washed them later, hardly anything worked, tires were bald, you name it, it looked like and smelled like a turd. I knew that I wanted one to fix up, and I wanted one that needed a conversion, (and found out later the # 3 exhaust valve was burnt , and stuck open) but damn the bad luck. I got screwed paying what I did....but no one held a gun to my head...........time marches on.....

I took it home, installed tin-foil in the windows to stop UV damage, and it sat in the backyard until I could get to it. I looked on E-bay and only got bargains, and passed if they weren't, and just kept storing parts. A year later; I slowing started working on it, I had been working out of state on a job that seem it wouldn’t ever complete. So I finally got time and got home, between being a part time dad, and a full time job, family needs and also needing a kayak fix on weekends, the following has been done to the camper. My goal is to take my kids on a trip out west to Yellowstone National Park in the camper. Ahhhh, ain’t that sweet, a nice Walden’s John-boy /Hallmark moment there, think I'm gonna puke.

 On a trip earning her keep....

Minor things I have done: (But didn't seem minor at the time)

I installed a Digitool from Darrell Boehler at www.loam.org  I love the tool. Darrell does a great service for the Vanagon community. He is a patient man. Darrell also installed a capacitor in-line with AFM to help cure the highway hiccup problems with Digifant Vanagon. With the Jetta or Wasserboxer motor in a Vanagon it doesn’t seem to matter when it comes to this problem. I think it might be the position of where the AFM is being bounced, and then sending the signal to the ECU.

I went through the whole front end, and got the parts from www.busboys.com  with upper and lower ball joints replaced. They were so shot the driver’s wheel was ready to give up the ghost.

Rebuilt the gas tank with a www.vanagain.com gas tank kit. Man did help Ken me out of with my old van with his kit, nice man, and nice web site. Before the fix, don’t even think about going for a full tank of gas especially if you smoke….KA-BOOM!

****** site update I'm having to go back, and re-seal we had MTBE in our summer blend gas here and it ruined some seals, no it is outlawed *******

I got the following big ticket items off E-bay vendors:

4 new tires made in Holland for VW ®Campers for 88 bucks each.

(Used)2 tables for the ones that were missing.

(Used) Front curtain and moon roof curtain.

(Used) Rear hatch shocks, no more headaches.

(Used) Front and rear bumpers, strips and caps, the others had the crushed beer can look.

(Used) Front towing hitch, for when I need to tow it home when I have a breakdown.

(Used) Rear Trailer Hitch, that I modified, with a 2” receiver, I carry a platform to carry firewood, and a little propane grill. Installed tail/brake lights on the platform for added safety.

And about a million other small items it seems…….

 Coming back from Nashvegas and being unloaded off the trailer

 Even more stuff…..

I have also gotten a lot of new parts for the camper from www.gowesty.com  GoWesty! Was another reason for me wanting another camper. They are a little pricey, but they are so much better than say the dealer (if you can get em), and their interior parts are of high quality, and they usually have what you need. Their website is first class, reminds me of looking at the old Sear’s catalog for Christmas toys when I was a kid.  I have replaced 20% of the wallpaper, installed their 3-sided pop-up Sunbrella canvas, boy does it make a big difference in the summer. I also installed their 3-point rear seat belt kits for the kids, and a GoWesty! aux. battery kit, and numerous other small ticket items. Also rebuilt the sink ,frig, and propane system using their parts. All items have been first rate. I have installed all luxury circuits to the aux. battery, only things necessary for the running and starting the van are tied into the main battery. Now I can run the frig, lights, radio and not worry about the camper not starting. I have a cigarette plug on top of the dash , that ties into the main battery, so if I want to use a solar battery charger, it can charge the main battery, all other cigarette receptacles are tied into the auxiliary battery, and I can charge the battery with a solar charger. I have also gone with their Frig. upgrade kit, with it the check valve and fan were upgraded. Now it lights on propane. My next thing I want to do next is install a propane gauge to the tank so I won't have to guess how much propane I have left.

Another camping mod I have done is install an interior frig fan, and I have a lessoned learned for someone. I installed too big of a fan I installed a 4" CPU fan, it had way too much air flow and wouldn't cool enough, it would only cool 20 degrees difference between outside and inside temp, I swapped it out for a Camping World interior Refrig.fan, runs on two D batteries forever, it seems anything bigger and the frig just doesn't want to cool. Now it holds at 38 degrees no matter how hot or cold. I installed also a ON-OFF-ON switch to run the fan on A/C or D/C that powers a fan located on the side grill of cabinet, this helps remove unwanted heat from the back of the Refrig. I wired in a 12volt transformer, to power the AC portion. I also installed a 12 volt L.E.D light to let me know the fan is being powered. I am kicking around taking the old high output fan that was too big and installing it in the back, and tie in to the switch I installed to let me have more control on removing heat off the rear fins, it should help increase the efficiency up to 40% on the frig, but the trade off will the be battery life of the second battery . I also installed a GoWesty retro pump upgrade with new fan in the back. Also I replaced the Green L.E.D indicator light with a blue high intensity lamp from RadioShack part# 276-316. This is help me see the light in the sunlight better to let me know the frig has lit. Besides the clear lamp that turns blue looks cool at night. I also installed a wireless Thermometer, I have the display on the dash to let me know how the frig is cooling. Some other things to note, when it is on 12 volt, once the outside temp goes above 86 degrees, the frig goes into defrost mode, when above 86 .I switch to propane, even if I am going down the road, and will turn it off when refueling . I also have a little foot pump that I use to help inject air into the drain tube, this helps me light the frig on the first time when trying to start it up on propane. The little factory pump is for some who has patience.

I also installed a shower, I had a spare in-tank water pump, same as the stock 12volt pump, I got the shower head attachment from Coleman, then I cut in a switch, on the back of the closet door, facing the outside, it is the same type of wall switch you would have in your home, the bakelite color matched the 84 interior perfect. Turn the switch on and presto you have water, granted it's cold water, but hey it's better than what I had. Just raise the hatch for the shower area. I use magnets and vinyl shower curtains to make a privacy area, and attach it to the hatch. It works like a charm.

A shot of the dash when it was a stick, its now an Automatic

Some other stuff I have installed is Terry K’s. Products at http://community-2.webtv.net/VanStuff/VanagonWestfalia/  (you might have to copy and paste this to work on your toolbar) I have installed his step assist step that mounts in the front table leg. I have installed his alarm clock/thermometer. Makes it nice to know how cool it is outside so I know how to gear up for kayaking the creeks, or what kind of clothes I need to dig out for the children. I have also gotten his window unit that mounts in the passenger front window. Works like a champ. The AC ROCKS if you car RV park camp, it keeps you cool and cuts down all the noise from all the Bubbas talking and laughing late at night.  I might later look for a little Honda generator to power the A/C unit, time for payback for all the nights I have heard generators running.

I also added rubber coil spacers for the back springs to get rid of the Westy lean and sag. It added 1.5" of rear lift. I got the spacers from J.C. Whip Me .They were very easy to install. I have seen a lot of different solutions for the sag and lean. but this was quick and painless, and I think the rubber help smooth out the ride too. Just compress the springs and place the rubber coil on the bottom and your are done.

Also I found a local body shop that would paint my ride for $1500 cash only, so I did some minor work on it, and brought the van to him. All the seam rust was ground out and the seams were re-chalked by the shop. I also went with a clear coat on the fiberglass to cut down on the oxidation that occurs with the top. New chrome and stickers were installed from GoWesty! No Wolfsburg emblems were installed; I ain’t paying what they want for them.

that said to see more body work click here

MAIN  UPGRADES:

Stereo:

I upgraded the Stereo system, there wasn't one when I got the van.  I replaced the door and rear speakers with Pioneers, and installed bass blockers to keep from frying the small speakers. They were installed by removing the original speaker grill and cutting off the hub on the back of the original, to make flush mount grills for the Pioneer speakers. No need to mod the crank handles when installed like that. Then I installed a Pioneer XM unit in the dash, behind the glove box www.xmradio.com  , connected with an IP BUS cable that controls the unit to a Pioneer XM ready head unit. The head unit comes with a remote , which makes it nice when it bed and you want to listen to music. The XM antenna was installed on the luggage rack and not under it.  In the rear seat compartment area. I installed two 8" woofers and a 500 watt Kenwood amp. Using a remote amp kit. I got the head unit from Wal-mart, the Pioneer Speakers from www.BestBuy.com . The XM unit I found used for a song on E-bay. The Amp and Woofers, and kit I found at the local flea market and they were also used. The system sounds great for less than $300.00 bucks. If you have been thinking about XM, I have been a customer (I was customer 10302 ) from almost day one. My CD buying has stopped I have actually saved money by going with them. I love it with no complaints…and will never go back to “regular” radio.

Exterior Lighting

I also upgraded wiring to the front headlights. I got the 30 amp relay kits from J.C. Whitney, with the plug-n-wire harness. (You splice/make your wires into their harness) I mounted the relays behind the passenger headlight. I RTV the connections to make them water proof and labeled them for the lights that they control. Ran 10 awg. Straight from the battery, used the existing headlight wiring and switch to drive the relays for switching. I also installed BMW auxiliary headlights from a wreck from a local Pull-a-Part, mounted with nuts and all-thread, and tapped the firewall. I also mounted the relay behind the passenger headlight. The switch for the BMW lights is floor mounted. I got the switch out of a 1981 Ford Panel van. I added a fuse block underneath the factory fuse panel and it uses AGC- type fuses, which are very common. The lights are a lot brighter now. One of the best mods I’ve done. I like this approach better than the kits you see where you “Plug-n-Play” into the fuse box…..forget that….sounds like too much work. Pulling that fuse panel is scary enough. I avoided that all together.

I have installed a Bright Light kit for the rear taillights, also bright lights were installed where the fog taillight section was abandoned by the factory. Also I installed D.O.T. reflective on the corners of the rear glass and the trailer hitch. Reflective tape was also installed on the bottom of the hatch, that way when the hatch is open, on the side of the road it will make it easier for a drunk to see me a night, so he can hit me. I also installed a third L.E.D. brake light from J.C.Whitney. The light was installed on the rear shelf; black rtv was used for the adhesive for installation. I mainly did this so when I am hit and I have my crap on the rear hitch platform. I can do “I TOLD YA SO”, and point to the third light.

At the locust fork races in Alabama

Air Conditioning:

The A/C in the Westy SUCKS…I have done the following to help somewhat on the cooling. I don’t mind going without the A/C mind you; I mean you know you are going camping. But on long trips /fighting traffic/two kids/significant other/riding in the slow lane ,it does help to keep you “fresh” when you get there. So far, I installed a small cheap thermometer , mounted on the outside of the blower housing to see how cool the air is blowing out, installed new foam around the vents to help close some of the air leaks. Air was blowing into the closet. I cut some filter material for the back coil to help keep the coil clean. I closed off the two small round vents to help make the air stronger. I also sealed all the gaps up, and got a dremel tool and opened up the main vents.  Also the drain hoses were extended and run through the body work  going past the engine compartment, to help fight seam rust.I heated the hoses and slightly crimped the end the help keep air from blowing up into the evaporator pan. . I had water escaping and soaking all the gear in back, the new drain lines fixed all that. Also a cheap fan was installed behind the driver’s head up front, to help push more air up in the cab. I also drive with the upper bed folded out, this forces more air to the front and not up in the pop-top area. The extra fan is powered by the auxiliary battery, and can be turned around to blow on the campers when sleeping and parked. The system was flushed, 134a installed with a new dryer by www.theautobahnsociety.com  (I miss R-12) The biggest thing was replacing the refrigerant hoses. VW went with some cheap ass hoses on the van. On the outside, they look good, on the inside, they come apart and clog the expansion valve, and the expansion valve was replaced. At least VW got it right by going with the valve instead of capillary tubes. I also tinted the back and side windows with 5% smoke limo window tint, and went with 35% on the front passenger, driver's and front windshield. The tint has made a big difference. You can now touch the steering wheel when it is parked all day in the Shopping Mall parking lot. Needless to say the AC ,I think this will always be a work in progress. While I was there I also installed a pet divider to stop all the crap, we have packed from flying forward and giving the kids a concussion when panic stops occur.

Motor Conversion:   Click Here  To see the more about the motor conversion.

Shot of the engine bay with the ABA 2.0 Motor...which I love btw

A Jetta ABA 2.0 1.8 Head Engine Conversion, with a Kennedy Adapter. Using a Digifant II fuel injection system has been installed. It was converted by www.theautobahnsociety.com in Georgia. I went with Steve’s set-up because it has U.S.A available parts, a heavy duty motor mount, and the deck lid stays stock, and the 2.0 he uses has oilers that squirt the piston, for better lubrication. I had “heard”-urban legend?” that  www.TIICO.com conversions were burning up pistons and rods, don’t even know if the two tie into together… (But hey “it’s what I heard from a guy, who’s the brother-in-law of a guy who’s…….”). I could also use the Digitool with the Digifant system which I had come to depend on so much (I could trouble shoot it on the side of the road or driving down the road), I could also ask questions on the Vanagon.com board, and not be sent somewhere else when came to asking questions about the Digifant, since the 2.1 Wasserboxer had the same system. My logic was also if I was on the road, a dealer or shop could work on it, and not freak out, they freak out enough when they see the word Vanagon as it is. I was also afraid that with a Subie motor in the back they would really freak.

My biggest reason for the swap was sticker shock. Most Vendors wanted around $1500-2000 for a rebuilt 1.9 Wasserboxer, that I know would still be a weak link, the price of the motor doesn't include putting the motor back in, mine had burnt the #3 exhaust valve before I got it, cheap AMC heads. I could get a motor out of a Jetta and not worry about the Water leaker heads or anti-freeze ever again, although I will still flush every two years. I know I have screwed up logic, but I would rather pay more up front for the conversion. If it hits the fan again, the motor replacement shouldn’t be as bad, just find a low mileage VW Golf/Jetta and swap for less than $500-$1000. While we were there a stronger clutch was put in, a new starter, the alternator rebuilt, and all fuel hoses from the tank to engine were replaced.

I think the ABA is EASIER TO WORK ON  because I can get my hands around the I-4 ,when compared to the WBX, and my pull-a-part yard gets a lot of MKII  Jetta's so I go there and destroy there stuff to figure out how my van works. I can take a part off a wreck and learn how it works ...then leave...yeah weird I know

Oil Cooler:   Click here    To see the oil cooler mod:

 Picture of the oil cooler under the sliding door

 I also have installed a oil cooler, using a electric fan than is tied into a relay. When the front radiator fan comes on, the relay will in turn , send power to the oil cooler fan. I got the oil cooler, and oil temp. gauge  from J.C. Whitney, and the fan I got the 9" fan from a E-Bay vendor. A good set-up for a cooler can be seen at (you may have to copy and paste his link into your tool bar) You can also see Bob's photos or at the YAHOO! group site for TIICO conversions.

http://groups.msn.com/BobsPhotoShare/oilcooler.msnw?albumlist=2 

My set up is different: I mounted mine under the sliding door , then I enclosed it with sheet metal ,and a spoiler was fabricated using a landscaping timber as a sheet metal brake, the scoop directs air going down the road. The fans sucks air over the cooler, and the T-stat switch kicks on a 180 degrees so the oil won't get too hot or too cold. I also have it wired on a relay , the switch is mounted on the dash, that turns on the oil cooler AND the front radiator fan, if I think it's running a little hot while in the mountains, I just flip the switch, this has been a great mod. I mounted the relay by the radiator fan, you have to drop the tire to work on them. With the Radiator fan relay, this doesn't affect the A/C function and the Oil Cooler Relay over rides the oil cooler temp switch. This mod by keeping the oil at cooler operating temperatures, has given me 5 more p.s.i. at the gauge at idle. I also installed an auxiliary radiator cooler for the factory oil cooler.

Interior Lighting:

I installed a fluorescent light where the original incandescent light use to reside. I purchased the light from www.campingworld.com . I also installed a ac/dc transformer where the refrigerator plugs into where the cabinet resides. I got it from Rip-off shack, and ran it to the new light. Then I ran a wire from the Auxiliary battery to the light. With all this now, I installed a ON-OFF-ON micro switch on the fluorescent light; the light uses12 volts. So now with the switch the light can run on AC or DC. When I am at a campground I can use their “shore power”, and when I stealth camp I use the backup battery under the driver's seat, when I need it and not the primary, so I can start and get out hell out of Dodge and not have a dead battery. Also I took the old light and installed it over the engine compartment, this was a life saver one night when a water pump belt broke, makes it nice when digging for gear and tools also, or reading a book at night when camping. Over the sliding door I installed a Coleman Tent light, it has a magnetic base, which attaches to metal above the door, it puts enough light to help you go to little boy’s room at night, without burning your eyeballs at night or tripping over a land mine the kids have set for you by the door. Also the glove box light and interior light over the driver is now tied into the auxiliary battery. I also have a window mounted solar charger that I use to charge the auxiliary battery when the motor isn't running, I just trimmed the tent away from the window using a straight edge, the charger mounts with suction cups, I got the charger off E-bay and it is a VW part like you see on the new VW car lots.

Camping in the woods, with a shot of homemade euro grill

 POR-15/ Seam Rust:     Click Here: To see the Seam Rust Repair

Another big mod-repair I have done; was to tackle the seam rust once and for all. The van was starting to show little rust bubbles at the bottom seam again. Every time I walked by it, it was like cancer eating at me and the van. I just couldn’t take it anymore and on a whim. I took the interior out and went at it. I removed the interior, used POR-15 on the interior and exterior seams, and then sprayed a rust inhibitor in every crook and cranny of the van. Then I coated the repair with spray on bedliner. When fully cured I will paint over the bedliner with matching paint. It was A LOT OF WORK. But I think it was worth it, I was starting to get discouraged with the van. Why work on it, and waste my money and time if it’s rusting away…..like I said it was a lot of work but I think the way off will be worth it. I was starting to cringe every time it rained (more rust). I’m a kayaker I love the rain so now that is taken care of…..

On another note I was so pleased with the POR-15 products that I sealed the battery compartment, and I going to use POR-20 on the exhaust system. I will have a “ceramic coated “exhaust for the fraction of the price.

Other products I use now is “Marine Clean” this stuff is great around the shop. Also the “Tie-Coat” primer was outstanding it has a lot solids, and sticks to anything and their body filler is great too. I used their “POR-PATCH” on the seams when I cleaned them up. This stuff works a lot better than 3-M sealer, bar none.

 During the battle of the seam rust wars

Upgrades that are down the road

Front Dash.

I want to install an aftermarket in-dash AC unit or a BEHR unit (cheaply and won't do it if I can't). I am also planning to R&R the front blower motor. I went with the mistake of changing the old one with a used one, and Murphy’s Law kicked in. While I am in there I will insulate the dash, and front heater core and will grease the wiper linkage and replace the windshield wiper nozzles, and rebuild the flapper gaskets while I am there also. The Vanagon.com list archives will walk you through all of this if you are wanting to do this yourself. Without it I wouldn’t be tackling this one without the list. Jim Felder has some great pictures on his website for this http://knology.net/~felder/Vanagons/

Camping with the kids, notice the bug screens on the window...YESSSSS!

Transmission:

 I am going with a 4-speed with a higher gear. I have made my mind up about going with www.aatransaxle.com  from everyone I’ve chatted with on-line tells me they are the best. I am wanting to change the stick because of the 3-4 sync hub that goes bad (paranoid again). I will go with an upgraded transmission and plan on having it done before I go on the long trip out west. Rather change it here at home, than on the road. I would like to go with the short shift kit , but man it's pricey. While I am there I will install new C.V. joint boots.

******SITE UPDATE******

I went with all things , with a new automatic transmission, the van is better hill climber now , with the better gearing from the slushbox

to know more why I did click here

ECU:

I would like to find a performance chip and upgrade the one I have now and try to get 5 more horses out of the motor, if I did that I would be up to the Subie Hp non-turbo,2.2  4 cylinder specs.

Inverter: 

I am wanting to add an inverter behind the driver's seat big enough to power the microwave I have in the van, yep it's true I got a microwave. Don’t really need it, although it would be nice to have.

 My new SA Grill , I bought it after I cheated on her and looked at another van...to know more of that click here (you will feel better about your own van)

Fuel Pressure gauge:

Hey, being paranoid is just another way of thinking….you can’t have too many gauges. I already have Ken Lewis’s Oxygen sensor gauge http://www.neksiwel.20m.com/  , a Vacuum gauge, oil pressure, voltmeter, water temp, oil temp. aftermarket tach. And the Digitool. I already have an in line fuel pressure gauge  would just like one that is a little easier to read. I might go with a Mech gauge and mount it beside the license plate. I might go with a Electrical one and mount it on the dash. But the Electric one's are very expensive.

 the kids tree house zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Vendors\ Links:

Here is a list of vendors that I have had good luck with and recommend.

www.busdepot.com  Ron is a great Vanagon vendor with great prices

http://www.eurocampers.com/  Their stuff seems HIGH priced but it can give you idea what is out there.

http://www.vanagain.com/ Ken is very knowledgeable about what is needed to keep it running. He has a repair shop, and knows both end of a wrench.

www.volkscafe.com These guys are first rate when it comes to parts, and also for finding oddball parts also .They have been great working with me on my Jetta part needs. His C.V. grease kit with the needle, is one of those why didn't I think of that deals........

www.gowesty.com  These guys have a lot you need and even more of what you want when it comes to keeping the camper fresh.

www.samba.com   I always look here for parts before I go to eBay. I hate seeing eBay get a cut; for really doing nothing, man what a money maker that idea was….

Do you really need all that #$%^&..the van supported 6 people on a camping trip

I will never treat her that way again...the oil cooler mod work great, the A/C worked great

Here some other people’s sites that I love to visit.

Roadhaus

Larry has done a great service for the Vanagon owner’s out there, his state by state repair shop list is fantastic, and more importantly little does he know he is my R&D department, I would never be able to drive all over the country to see what works and what doesn't, and what breaks and what doesn't......here's to you Larry....THANKS.

http://www.roadhaus.com/

Matsuwesty

Matt has a great website, showing nice modifications he has done and he has tons of links to keep you busy. The German sites will keep you lusting for something overseas. I have found that if I GOOGLE the German sites it will translate it for me. I have followed Matt's steps and installed a fuse box like his, the box is the old fuel pump relay box, but instead of the spade type fuses, I have gone with the ACG type fuses, I'm old school. I got the fuse blocks for Rip-off shack and J.B.Welded them and then screwed them into place, I have also installed his "secret glove" box mod. Makes it nice when you park, and you are on the river.

http://home.earthlink.net/~matsuwesty/

 Putting it back together during the seam rust wars

Ben’s Place

Ben’s website is awesome. He really knows the type 2 and type 3 Westfalias. His coolant bleeding procedure alone is so good I can do it better than any shop bar none. He catches grief on the Vanagon.com board sometimes….too may sensitive people. Keep adding to your website Ben….actions are louder than words ….

It is nice to see another person's perspective, Ben is a French Canadian, and it's refreshing to see his use of English words when it is his second language.

http://www.benplace.com/

Ben T

Ben T’s website is a fun place to visit also.

http://hometown.aol.com/bentbtstr8/myhomepage/index.html

Scenes seen from the back roads in WA. in a Westy Driver's seat

Been There Done That

The Been There Done That website is a website in progress , that needs our input to make it even better . If enough information is given it will be better than the Type 2 website. I also joined the Vanagon rescue list, you should too!!!

http://vw.upnorth.net/Welcome...54.htm

One that died, and I would love to see come back was www.grazethepavement.net  that site had a lot of potential to replace vanagon.com and the Yahoo Groups. Very user friendly, hope the guy who started it, is reading this and brings it back.

Van before the blacked out windows  (just home from a paddling trip)

Vanagon.com stuff

www.vanagon.com

Tom C’S  website is loaded with good stuff to help you turn a wrench easier. He is also the keeper and does a great job moderating the Vanagon.com site.

http://volksweb.relitech.com/    Tom C's Personal Site

On vacation in North Carolina

Archives:

  http://gerry.vanagon.com/archives/vanagon.html

The archives are priceless when it comes to information. You need a 3MEG cable hook up, a dial up connection will kill you off , trying search the archives.

 Here is a link to buy the Vanagon.com stickers for your Westy.

 http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/sticker.html 

Other Stuff:

Here are some other websites ….see if you see a pattern with these.

Ozark whitewater

A WORLD CLASS website, check out the rain gauge, and river flow gauges. This should be a model for everybody else.

www.ozarkpages.com

 Base camp with the westy

Alabama Whitewater

Mark D’ has also got a gem with this site, it is the best on the web. His Forum has been high jacked for better or worse, lot's of local entertainment can be had.

www.alabamawhitewater.com

American Whitewater

Without AW I don’t think we would be kayaking creeks today…..BTW Rodeo is dead….get over it......

www.americanwhitewater.org

I love the 3-sided canvas pop top

Lance’s whitewater Page

My buddy Lance is “ate up” with the whitewater bug more than me…that’s saying’ a whole lot.

You might have to copy and paste into your explorer toolbar.

http://users.aristotle.net/~lajones or you can Google “Lance’s whitewater page” and get a hit.

Whitewatervideo.com

Milt has got a great video pimp website here; if he ain’t got it you don’t need it. I highly recommend “Falling Off Walden’s Ridge”, “Steep Creekin”,  but I am a little bias.

www.whitewatervideo.com

Boatertalk.com

If you can’t have fun on the general forum board on this one check your pulse…reminds of the days of the C.B. Radio. You can piss someone off, have a good discussion, and find someone to boat with all in the same place. The gear swap section has changed how to buy gear for the boating community forever, and made vendors somewhat more honest, now you know if you are getting a good deal or not. Just make sure who the players and haters are, I have been kicked off a couple times, from pissin' off a whitewater geek

www.boatertalk.com

Steepcreeks.com

Ben Hayes is keeping the creeking torch lit, and passing on information to the next..... up and coming generation.

www.steepcreeks.com

 Other Cool Sites:

www.nooga.com   News the way I LIKE IT

www.kindrock.com  Check this band out, they don’t get enough credit, and I still don't know why they haven't hit the big time, they are great live………check out the download section

E-MAIL  me if you got questions or want to flame me.