'65 Mustang/'56 Duo-Sonic



What the hell was I thinking?

     After the debacle that was my first guitar project, I never wanted to try that kind of thing again. In the fall of 2000 I had bought a '65 Mustang neck with completely different intentions (see below). Once I realized it wouldn't be used as originally planned, and then saw some '56 Duo-Sonic parts in an auction, a (low wattage) light bulb went off over my head: I could "build" a 24" scale Duo-Sonic, but with a 3-way toggle switch in the treble horn (out of the way, where it belongs) instead of 2 scratchy slider switches.

     That said, I really wasn't sure this would work. I knew the '60s Duo-Sonic II/Musicmaster II/Mustang bodies could accept either a 22 1/2" scale or a 24" scale neck, but I wasn't sure if a '50s body could accept a 24" scale neck, (i.e., if the "footprint" of the butt of Fender necks were similar or not). It was a tight fit (the location of the neck mounting holes must have changed by a smidgen between '56 and '65), but it worked, and the guitar plays and sounds grrrreat! It's got almost the same fast neck feel (this one is slightly thicker) and high-octane sound of my '65 Musicmaster II hot rod. Too bad about the ugly-ass body, though. At least I can "saw away" at it with my pick and not care about scratches. These days, the paint is completely gone in the area above the pickguard where my pick misses the strings, and the finish is starting to check nicely elsewhere.


[ back view | body, front ]


     Since this guitar was initially re-animated, I've made three major changes and also found a silver '60s Mustang case for it. The original pickguard was removed in favor of a black plastic repro 'guard (the Black Flag sticker was optional), because I was tearing up the "protective" layer of lacquer I sprayed on the original pickguard. I also paid for a professional refret, using "medium" (StewMac #0148) fretwire, and now it plays soooo much better. The refret and new nut (performed in St. Louis) only cost $205, about 60% of what it would have cost me in Memphis, but you get what you pay for: the refret was pretty sloppy (I had to fill in the sides of the fingerboard with a paste of wood glue/rosewood sawdust, since the new fret slots were cut too deep), and there were a few scratches on the body that I didn't remember putting there myself. That said, the frets seem to have been dressed and leveled well. I never actually spoke to the person who performed this refret, so I'm really not in a position to judge it one way or the other. However, if you live in the St. Louis area and are thinking about getting fret work done, feel free to e-mail me and I'll be glad to provide more details. Lastly, I made my own transition-era-esque Fender decal for the bare headstock. I did not include a model name, and it will not fool anyone (it's actually a golden brown color, for better contrast on the headstock and also because I didn't have access to a gold ink printer). It was a pain to edit the image (from a 1000 dpi scan of a photograph of my '65 MM2's headstock), erasing everything except the decal and then correcting the aspect ratio, but now this guitar has at least some semblance of class. I mean, the majority of it is a Fender....

The neck:

      I bought the neck first off eBay, as a potential replacement for my '65 Musicmaster II's neck. It had originally belonged to a '65 Mustang, but had been refinished an almost too-dark "vintage amber" by persons unknown (unfortunately costing the guitar's original decal). At ~$95, it would have been cheaper than a refret, but the original frets really weren't that high, and one fret end (12th fret, low-E side) was loose. Other than the one fret, it was a good neck. Since the refret (see above), it's been a great neck.

     This Mustang neck, dated October 1965, is somewhat unusual in that it has a slab rosewood fretboard. Some Fender fans had speculated that these were left over from '62 Jaguars. However, this one also has an enlarged headstock shape (almost like the late-'60s/'70s post-CBS headstocks), which didn't exist in 1962, so it's very unlikely this neck was a leftover. Another unusual feature is that the headstock was originally drilled for "F"-tuners instead of Klusons. The Mustang was one of the first Fenders to receive the Forrest White-designed F-tuners ca. 1966, but I've seen very few examples with 1965 neck dates. At any rate, by the time I got it the "F"-tuner mounting holes were sloppily filled, a new nut had been installed, and the holes for the tuning machines were enlarged to 3/8" for Schaller M6 Mini tuners (which unfortunately were not included; I had to buy a new set).


The body:

     Several months later, I bought the body, pickguard, and bridgeplate off eBay for $150. I didn't buy the other parts in that '56 Duo-Sonic lot: a neckplate (#13593), the tone pot (date code unknown), and jack. The body is unusual in that it's made of ash, which later was usually saved for the more expensive see-thru finish Fenders. Unfortunately, someone had stripped it via shot-peening, so the body had plentiful pits and gouges. I refinished it with clear nitrocellulose lacquer, but the CrystaLac water-based wood paste filler used underneath it dried opaque instead of clear. The pickguard had also lost its anodization and was starting to pit on the front, and was actually missing part of its bass-side horn. The full story of this refin is summarized below, but the bottom line is you shouldn't use anything except clear lacquer if you're doing a clear refin (unless you like the look of an ash-bodied guitar with pasty white blotches). If I knew how to obtain the DuPont Ducco acrylic lacquer used on the first Duo-Sonics (a.k.a. "desert sand"), preferably in a spray can, I'd probably buy it and just re-refinish it in the "correct" color.


Electronics/hardware:

     With a set of brass Telecaster "intonated" saddles, proper Fender "barrel" knobs, and generic strap buttons, all it needed was electronics. It inherited a used Duncan Hot Rails bridge pickup that came with my red late '50s Musicmaster (that pickup snarls! -- it's much more "ratty" sounding than the one in my '65 MM2), to go with a new Duncan Vintage Staggered neck pickup. A Switchcraft jack, an Allparts switch, and Fender volume and "no load" tone pots completed the electronics.


Vital statistics:

  • Serial number: N/A (made in U.S.A.)

  • Body: 3-piece ash, horribly refinished natural

  • Neck/fingerboard: maple/"slab" rosewood
    Scale length: 24"
    Neck width:
         at nut: 1 5/8"
         at 12th fret: 2"
    Neck radius: 7 1/4"

  • String gauges (standard tuning):
    GHS Nickel Rockers rollerwound strings, set R+RM (.050-.011)

  • Electronics:
    2 pickups (polarity/DC resistance):
         Neck: Duncan Vintage Staggered single coil (south/6.69 kOhms)
         Bridge: Duncan Hot Rails humbucker (north/14.8 kOhms)
    Controls: 3-way switch; master volume, master tone ("no load")




Modifications

     Really, what's left to modify? That said, I've thought about a couple of mods. I could add a push-pull volume pot, to split the bridge pickup, and I've already added a "no load" tone pot, for capacitor bypass when the tone is turned up all the way.




How NOT to refinish a guitar

     I really should have just done it the "hard way," and used nothing but clear lacquer for this refin. In my defense, I really didn't know better, but I could have at least practiced on scrap first. Thanks to Mr. Ronald Day (Chair, Engineering Technology, U of Memphis) for again letting me use their lacquer spraying booth for this project. Remember that lacquer is EXTREMELY flammable; even if you spray outside, make sure there are NO potential ignition sources in your work area (i.e., no lit cigarettes, and use an explosion-proof exhaust fan and sealed overhead light fixtures).

  • Body as received, lightly sanded (up to 320-grit paper): front and back.

  • After using the paste filler: front and back. Because ash is an open-pored wood, I used CrystaLac clear water-based wood grain filler. The water-based grain filler usually recommended for ash is actually a light tan (think blonde Telecasters), but I wanted a clear refin since the body was worn but not too ugly (no knots). Several coats were wiped on, then sanded off to fill in imperfections. However, multiple (thick) layers of clear CrystaLac paste filler dried milky-white rather than clear when dry! The result was one ugly guitar body. The last "coat" applied was 1 mL filler diluted with 2 mL distilled water, mixed well and then wiped on as carefully as possible. Unfortunately, the final sanding was uneven and went through some edges. UPDATE (June 2002) -- StewMac now sells "improved" ColorTone water-based lacquer, instead of CrystaLac.
         Note the longer "paint stick" with a hook that I attached to the body, to give me something to hold while spraying it and to give it something to hang from while drying. It's not obvious in the image, but I also inserted a few 3" nails into some of the pickguard screw holes on the front, so that I could then spray the front, flip it over on the nail heads, and spray the back almost immediately thereafter.

  • After spraying sanding sealer: front and back. Most of the sanding sealer was sanded off 2 days later with 320-grit FreCut paper. I think this could have substituted for the paste filler, no problem. Tip: Make sure you don't subsequently sand through the sealer on the edges, or it'll really look bad!

  • After 3 coats of clear spray-can nitrocellulose lacquer: front and back. I shot all 3 coats during one afternoon, about 45-60 minutes apart with no sanding in between, for effectively one continuous coat. One entire spray can and about 2/3 of another were needed to give 3 clear coats for the body and the pickguard.

  • After buffing out: front and back. (Yeecch!!) Two weeks after the last coat was applied, I buffed it with StewMac's #2 polishing compound, followed by polishing with #4 swirl remover. Perhaps because it is about half the thickness of my '65 Musicmaster II refin (no color coat), the lacquer finish on this guitar doesn't seem as durable: I've already got a plethora of chips in the body from picking too hard and near the jack from missing with the guitar cable.

  • I also sprayed clear lacquer on the pickguard, to retard further oxidation and pitting:

    Unfortunately, the lacquer was no match for my sloppy picking hand, getting chipped between the pickups. I ended up removing it before the damage got too great, replacing it with a black plastic repro guard.


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