-Another Redstripe, Please-

By Jack Magestro

© 2003

 

Negril Beach, Jamaica - 2000 and Something

 

WE were back in Negril, one of our favorite places, and I was wandering the seven miles of beach on an early June morning. The sun was just up and casting shadows of trees onto the sand as I strolled along in the ever perfect air under a clear sky. The ocean was still calm and had not yet woken to cast  any waves  up onto the beach. Shirtless and shoeless, I wore  a loose pair of old cotton shorts; superfluous, actually, other than to have pockets for my lighter and cigarettes. It was, to steal an often used phrase, another perfect day in paradise and I was already thinking of my first beer.

 

     Not many people were on that stretch of beach so soon after sunrise, but there were a few die hard young women lying on lounges atop towels, their skin soaked in tanning oil,  doing their best to acquire skin cancer. I believe that they did not think or believe that some day, after thirty years of basking in the sun, they would all look like horse saddles. The bottles of designer water, stuck in the sand next to each one may have been able to keep them hydrated, but in the end, the sun would win and their youth would fade prematurely.

 

     Besides a few wild dogs, some arguing  birds and the leftover litter from the late partying of the night before and me, the only other things on the beach were some sleeping young men, curled on their own lounges or even just lying in the sand and sleeping off the excitement, ganja and  high proof rum from  the previous evening. I thought back thirty years to when I was twenty, as many of these reclined bodies seemed to appear to be, and wondered if I’d missed something by working so hard at odd jobs during that time of my own life just to pay for school and find a career. I didn’t remember snoozing on a beach back then. The memory of my career was a little fuzzy that morning. I concluded that I had missed something, shrugged to my self and continued strolling.

 

      While my wife was sleeping late as usual under a simple single sheet back in our rented cabin and dreamed her early morning dreams, I remembered the Redstripe tales told to us nearly a decade ago on that same beach in Negril. Over some time and several trips to the area, we met and continued to meet a local rastamafarian named Cirtron. He’d told us the story of Redstripe, a little dachshund, his girlfriend Sheila and his adventures with the little dog. The stories were somewhat unbelievable. He’d told us of sneaking the dog through international airports, how the dachshund wreaked havoc with the locals and how tiny Redstripe had charmed everyone she met in both Jamaica and the United States. My wife, Jill, and I often thought that maybe these stories were the product of the overuse of a certain prevalent drug in Jamaica, usually inhaled through the lungs, but the stories have remained with us for years. Thinking about them, I began to laugh out loud as I continued down the beach. No one cared that I was laughing at seemingly nothing, most everyone around was somnolent anyway and there are much weirder things to be seen on the Negril Beach than some middle aged man walking along and laughing to himself.

 

     I stopped for a moment to light a cigarette and to contemplate a pile of discarded conch shells. The pile was under a palm tree just outside a little shack that had a crude, hand painted sign stuck in the sand. The black letters listed conch, conch soup, jerked pork and chicken and breakfast. One did not know what the breakfast really was, but the place apparently was selling it. The  pile of discarded  shells must have been three feet high and would have been worth a fortune back in the United States; the larger intact shells to be sold to adorn expensive coffee tables in  affluent homes sporting the latest in interior design. To the Jamaicans, it was just a pile of refuse waiting to be buried in the sand.

 

    The sun was beginning to make its way higher into the morning sky and I could feel it begin to sting my unprotected shoulders. I figured it was time to head back to the cabin and my sleeping wife and maybe find a cup of blue mountain coffee. I dug a hole in the sand for my cigarette with my bare foot, covered it and turned to make the trek back. I had only taken a few steps when I was confronted by a wandering beach vendor. He was selling aloe leaves and I, being one of the only moving objects on the beach, was his target.

 

     The man, a very dark Jamaican; yellowish whites of eyes, enlarged feet from a life of pounding sand barefoot and wearing a only simple pair of khaki shorts carried a large net bag over his shoulders crammed with aloe leaves. Actually, a better description of these would be aloe branches. These plants, the juices of which were applied to sunburn and were quite effective in relieving pain, grew to be six feet tall in Jamaica. The bag of branches looked like a bunch of truncated, handless green arms. The man stopped in front of me, placed the bag on the sand and made his pitch.

 

     “Ya, mon. Your shoulders be getting’ de red, mon. I have de aloe for you. Good for de burn. Very good.”

 

     I stopped realizing I’d already made a mistake. The word “no” or “no thank you” only works to decline an offer from the beach vendors if you keep moving. And one should never say “maybe later.” The vendor will take that literally and pursue you “later” for the rest of the day or even the next. But regretting my error in stopping, I had only the second option left in order to remain polite and respectful.

 

     “Maybe later,” I said.

 

      “Ya, mon. Irie. Y’come to our place and we rub in de aloe for you later. Come, I show you where t’go, come on, mon. Den you come back later.” He picked up the bag.

 

     Darn it. I was going to have to be rude in order get out of this one. I had no intention of going to “his place”, wherever that was, just to be pressed to buy who knows what. I opened my mouth to say that I just needed be left alone but I stopped on the inhale before I spoke. I looked a little more closely at the man as I held my breath, wary and surprised at what I saw.

 

     The Jamaican’s beard and dreadlocks held some grey. And there were some new lines and crinkles around the eyes. Some gold adorned an ear and eyebrow that I did not remember. But I did remember the face, wiry frame and accent. It had been a few years, but I would have recognized Cirtron anywhere.

 

     “Cirtron!” I said.

 

     “What?” How be it dat ………Ah!  Ya, mon!  Jack and Jeel! No! Can’t be so!”

 

     “It’s me, Cirtron, remember?  Jill’s back sleeping at the cabin.”

 

     Cirtron actually did a little dance. He pumped his arms and stomped from one foot to the other while I thought about coincidences.  “Jack and Jeel!  No! Cannot be! Ya, mon, I remember. Redstripe!”

 

      “Redstripe indeed, my man. What the heck are you doing here trying to sell me aloe when I can take two steps off the beach and break off a piece by myself for nothing?”

 

     “I dunno,” Cirtron grinned at me. “I do de stuff on de beach, mon. Sheila, she does de stuff in de house.

 

     “Sheila?” I asked. “Sheila is here? What house?”

 

     “Ya, mon. We have de guest house and all dat.  De people come and stay and we make de living so. Ah! Happy times, mon!”

 

     While my mind was awash in the waters of deja vu, I tried to concentrate on that last part. Cirtron had a house? And his girl friend, Sheila from New York was taking care of it? Something didn’t fit here. I could feel invisible antlers, nourished by curiosity, growing out of the sides of my head. I wanted to go back and tell Jill that I’d found Cirtron. But I also wanted to know about Sheila and this “house.” Was this just another story woven in the smoke of Cirtron’s favorite vice?

 

     “Cirtron, can you show me?”

 

     “Ya, mon! Day all be dere. Sheila and Redstripe and Paris. I be take you, c’mon mon. Say, mon, have de extra cigarette?”

 

     I reached into my pocket, shook out a cigarette from my pack and handed Cirtron a lighter. Nothing changes, really, over time. Cirtron was still bumming and I felt grateful that it was too early for him to have me buy him a beer. I would have gladly if I thought I could get explanations out of him in any hurry. Instead, we headed up the beach together and I had a feeling that the Redstripe stories would begin again and I would find the answer to the puzzle.