Mamluk Embroidered Tunic Yoke and Detail

Late 15th century

Unfortunately cut from the garment it originally decorated by "fortune hunters", this linen tunic front is a veritable sampler of Mamluk period embroidery stitches.

  • Pattern darning on the collar - a counted thread technique
  • Drawn thread with overcast bars outlining the neck opening and for the star motif - a counted thread technique
  • Individual cross stitches along the neck opening edge, not worked as counted thread technique
  • Running stitch, stem stitch, and closed counted herringbone stitch for the animals and footed crescents on the body
  • Tiny tassels worked in beneath the long vertical patterns on either side of the neck opening and below the center medallion

The embroidery thread is silk in colors including red, brownish black, white, and greenish blue. There are three closely spaced ball buttons with loop closures on the collar, and three more widely spaced on the front opening.

For better view of motifs, see detail below

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Questions? Comments?

Yoke-medium sized picture

Technique and Motif Details

Close up view of neck edge. I apologize for the poor quality of this image, but i blew up the yoke scan, which results in a display of the low quality printing technique

Long Yoke Detail

Close up view of diagonally stitched motifs and tiny tassels. A little of the neck openwork is visible at the left.

Wide Yoke Detail