Glossary of Maghribi and Andalusi Costume

Organized by Modern Country


This is taken largely from the Encyclopedia of Islam, 1986. My comments are in [square brackets]. I have also had to alter spelling slightly, lacking diacritical marks. I have also made a few other slight alterations, such as spelling the country names in full.

This glossary contained no notes concerning the time periods in which these garments were or are worn. Based on some of the descriptions, i am assuming that this list represents chiefly what was worn within one century before and at the time it was compiled.

The Maghrib is composed of Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, and part of Libya.


Entire Maghrib

babushat: flat slippers for both sexes - entire Maghrib
[French: babouche, also written babouj]

belgha: flat slippers, usually pointed at the toe, but sometimes rounded, for both sexes in the entire Maghrib

bernus: large hooded cape for men, entire Maghrib

bhika: woman's hat, so called throughout the Maghrib, but different in each country

durra'a, der'a, dirra: long robe with sleeves for both sexes, entire Maghrib

futa: outer wrap, or loin cloth for women in the entire Maghrib

ha'ik, hayk, tahaykt: large outer wrap, usually white, worn by both sexes in the entire Maghrib
[my observation in Dec. 2000-Jan 2001 indicates color differences from town to town in Southern Morocco - often indigo blue or black or striped white and blue or black]

hzam: general designation for belt, especially a sash in the entire Maghrib

'imama: standard turban in the entire Maghrib

izar: large outer wrap for both sexes in the entire Maghrib; fringed shawl worn by Jewish women in Morocco

kabbut: a coat for both sexes in the entire Maghrib

kamis, kamidjdja, kamidja: long body shirt for both sexes in the entire Maghrib

ksa: large outer wrap for both sexes in the entire Maghrib

milhafa, mlahfa, tamelhaft: large outer wrap worn by both sexes, entire Maghrib

na'l, n'ala, n'ayl: sandals in the entire Maghrib

shashiyya, shash: brimless soft hat worn by both sexes in the entire Maghrib

sedriyya, sadriyya: a man's waistcoat in the entire Maghrib

serwal: trousers for both sexes in the entire Maghrib

takiyya: skull cap for men in the entire Maghrib

tarbush: hats of various types for men in the entire Maghrib

tkasher: stockings for both sexes in the entire Maghrib

tmak: riding boots in the entire Maghrib


Morocco

a'aban: large outer wrap for Berber/Amazight men in Morocco

'abruk: bandana for women in Southern Morocco

akhnif, khnif: Berber cape, hooded for men, unhooded for women, in Southern Morocco

bed'iyya: sleeveless kaftan for women in Morocco

camir: body shirt for both sexes in Morocco

derbala: a vest in Libya and Tunisia; an old threadbare garment in Morocco

camir: body shirt for both sexes in Morocco

faltita, djaltita, djantita: a skirt of Spanish origin (giraldetta) worn mainly by Jewish and Andalusi women in Morocco

faraziyya, tafarazit (Berber/Amazight): a very light gown with a deep slip at the chest which may or may not have sleeves and which is worn under the kaftan or garment by both sexes. It comes in a half-length version called muss farziyya. In Morocco

fishtul: shawl and headscarf for women in Morocco

fukiyya: a body shirt for men worn under the djellaba in Morocco

gandura: full-length tunic with short sleeves for men in Southern Morocco

ghlala: sleeveless outer robe for women in Morocco

haddun, ahaddun: a variety of heavy burnus in Morocco

iburegsen, idushsha, iherkas: simple Berber sandal in Morocco

ikerzi: Berber turban consisting of a white cloth wound around the head leaving the crown of the head uncovered in Morocco

'isawiyya: simple, wide tunic consisting of a hole in the center for the head and one at each side for the arms, made of striped wool and worn by men; also a very ample blouse of strong cotton worn over other clothing, both in Morocco

khlali: a red wrap for women in Morocco

keswa kbira: elegant wedding and festivity dress of Jewish women consisting of several parts, derived from 15th century Spanish dress - in Morocco
[included pinned in embroidered sheer sleeves, a velvet dress]

mdamma: leather belt worn by men, women, and children in Morocco

ktib: headscarf for women in Morocco

kurziyya: belt for both sexes in Morocco

rezza, rrezt: small, rather flat turban in Morocco

saya: a skirt in Northern Morocco; a dress in Southern Morocco

serbil, sherbil: flat slippers for both sexes in Morocco

selham, aselham (Berber/Amazight): man's hooded cape in Morocco

trabak: leather leggings worn by women in Morocco

zzir: a Berber scarf for both sexes in Morocco


Morocco and Algeria

djabaduli, djabador: a full-length, caftan-like garment with either no buttons or a single button in front in Morocco and Algeria

djellaba, djellabiyya, djellab, zellaba: hooded outer robe with long sleeves, originally worn only by men, latter 2/3 of the 20th century began to be worn by women in Morocco and somewhat in Western Algeria

kaftan: caftan originally worn by both men and women, now only by women - in Morocco and Algeria

litham: veil for the lower half of the face worn by married women in Morocco and Algeria
[today? - obviously was worn by men in the Middle Ages]

nkab: face veil for married women, often synonymous with litham in Morocco and Algeria

sebniyya: woman's headscarf in Morocco and Algeria

taraza, tarazala, tarazal: wide-brimmed straw hat for both sexes in Morocco and Algeria

wikaya: woman's head scarf in Morocco and Algeria


Algeria

'abaya: sleevless over garment for men and sleeveless flowing dress for women in Algeria

fermla: vest for elderly men in Algeria

frimla, furmayla: corselet for women in Algeria

gandura: full-length tunic with short sleeves for both sexes in Algeria

ghlila: vest for both sexes in Algeria

dami: jacket for men in Algeria

gnidra: light lacy chemisette for women in Algeria

kashshaba: long sleeveless outer gown for men; long-sleeved flowing tunic with a deep slit down the front for women - both in Algeria

kbaya: sleeveless vest for men in Algeria

zerguta: a simple sleeveless square-cut man's tunic in Southern Algeria


Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia

'arrakiyya: skull cap for men in Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia

djukha: long, woolen outer robe without sleeves or collar, closed by a single button at the neck, worn by men in Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia

mentan, emntal: man's waistcoat with long, straight sleeves in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia

sebbat: closed shoes for either sex in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia

shedd, shedda: turban in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia

shal, shan: head scarf for both sexes in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia

rihiyyat: flat leather slippers worn by both sexes in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia


Algeria and Tunisia

ferdja, fradja: garment similar to the faradjiyya for men only in Algeria and Tunisia.

kabkab: wooden clogs for women in Algeria and Tunisia
[actually resemble slightly the Japanese geta in that there's a flat sole which is raised above the ground by crosspieces placed under the metarsal arch and near the heel - however some are elaborately inlaid with mother of pearl. Additionally they are generally intended for wearing in the hammam, the bath. The name is oenomatapoeic]

kalansuwa: pointed bonnet for menin Algeria and Tunisia


Tunisia

bakhnuk: embroidered head shawl for women in Tunisia

djara'id: a pair of men's leather leggings in Tunisia

djubba: full-length, sack-like chemise without sleeves in Tunisia

duka: a pointed bonnet for women in Tunisia

malusa: large Turkish style turban worn by religious dignitaries in Tunisia

shkufiyya, jufiyya: woman's bonnet in Tunisia

ta'djira: large embroidered shawl for women in Tunisia

takayda: pointed woman's bonnet in Tunisia


Tunisia and Libya

derbala: a vest in Libya and Tunisia; an old threadbare garment in Morocco

kmadjdja: fine embroidered tunic for both sexes in Tunisia and Libya

safsari: large outer wrap for women in Tunisia and Libya


Libya

barrakan: large enveloping outer wrap for both sexes in Libya

frimla, furmayla: an embroidered bolero vest in Libya

maryul: short embroidered shift worn by women in Libya

testmal: fringed head scarf for women in Libya

zibbun: a man's jacket with long sleeves in Libya


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