Exercise Needs:  The Cocker Spaniel is a Sporting Breed requiring a moderate amount of exercise each day.  Apartment dwellers without a secure fenced yard will need to find alternative ways to provide this needed exercise.  Those who have the luxury of living in a serene, country setting would be wise not to allow their Cocker to have free roam over the neighborhood.  Being a Sporting Breed, Cockers have a very keen nose which can get them into trouble; when allowed to roam free, they follow their nose and end up lost or wandering near traffic.  Cockers are not 'car smart' so a fenced yard is essential for providing a safe area for play and exercise with the family.  

Where Will Your Cocker Live?:  This is a breed that loves interaction with people and human contact.  He should never be tied outside or kept confined to an outdoor kennel/run or yard......in other words, the Cocker should not be treated like an 'outside dog'. Provide him with the same warm, comfortable living quarters you have......inside with the family.  Cockers do enjoy outside time on a nice day -- like chasing a ball or Frisbee in the yard with their people.  Or, go to the mountains to camp or hike, taking care that your Cocker is leashed at all times.  Time with family is quality time.

Spaying Your Female/Neutering Your Male:   At 6 months of age, hormones kick in with male/female dogs that can cause unwanted behaviors and some health issues (cancers).  It is highly recommended that pet/family/companion puppies be spayed/neutered before or by 6 months of age.  Females come 'in heat' unless they are spayed and will leave a bloody discharge on carpets, upholstery, their bedding, etc.  Moodiness can be expected at this time.  The heat cycle lasts for 21 days and will occur every 6 - 9 months for the life of the dog unless she is spayed.  During this three week heat cycle, males from up to a mile away will be attracted to your yard where she has been. Males have been known to dig under fences or jump them to get to a female in heat on the other side.  Females in heat will have a desire to roam in search of a male to breed with if not kept securely confined indoors for the entire 21 day heat cycle (except to take her potty ON LEASH then bring her indoors immediately); they have been known to bolt from an unfenced yard they had not attempted to leave in the past.  A female in heat should never be left in a fenced yard alone without human supervision as she will try every way to escape in search of a male, no matter what the breed!  The old Wives' Tale that allowing a female to have one heat cycle before being spayed makes her a better pet is FALSE!  With every heat cycle a female goes through, her chance of developing cancers later in life is greatly increased.  Spaying a female (or neutering a male) before 6 months of age also greatly decreases the chance of aggressive tendencies in temperament.  Waiting until a dog is several years old to spay/neuter will not change any already established temperamental behaviors. 

NOTE:  Females WILL mark areas where they detect a new, unfamiliar scent indoors or outside (another dog, a new baby, or strange person in the home).   This is more common in females who were NOT spayed by 6 months of age.  They will squat to wet over the unfamiliar scent, which may be carpets/rugs, clothing inside the home.  

Males who are not neutered have a desire to roam and will be attracted to any females in heat; their sense of smell can detect a female in heat up to a mile away.  It may be hard to keep an un-neutered male confined to a fenced yard due to this strong urge to roam in search of a female in heat.  They will 'mark' territory where other dogs have been outside and will mark inside your home if a new person or dog comes to visit.  Males/females who are not neutered/spayed have a greater tendency toward aggressive behaviors with other dogs or humans compared to males/females who were neutered/spayed as a puppy.  If males are neutered at 6 months of age or younger, the attraction to females, desire to roam, and territorial marking are prevented.  Neutering removes the hormones which cause these behaviors. Spaying or neutering at a young age (by 6 months or before) greatly decreases the chance your puppy will acquire uterine cancer, mammary cancer, or testicular cancer later in life which, in turn, will increase the lifespan of the dog. 

NOTE:  Just because a male dog lifts it's leg does not mean it is "marking".  This is a misconception.  A male dog usually lifts it's leg because it's owner has walked it on a leash up to objects (trees, posts, etc.) for potty breaks all it's life.  Some owners seem to feel a male dog cannot go potty unless it is walked up to a tree, post, fence, etc.  This is not true.  OR, the dog may have been outside with another male dog and saw it lift it's leg to go potty and copied the behavior (this is called 'social learning' when dogs learn from other dogs).  In this situation, the male dog WILL lift his leg to get it out of the way so he can get close enough to the object to go potty.  If this pattern is repeated by the owner every time he/she takes the dog out to go potty (or the dog repeatedly watches other males do this), the dog develops a learned habit of lifting his leg and begins to think he cannot go potty without lifting his leg.  A male dog (neutered or not) can very easily urinate while standing on all four legs and squatting.  To teach your dog this, simply take him (as a puppy) on a leash outside for every potty break.  Walk him around in a wide OPEN area with no trees, no lawn furniture, no objects sitting on the lawn.  Do not walk him next to anything.  He WILL squat to urinate.  Repeat this potty training routine ON LEASH consistently while the dog is a puppy and he will squat to urinate.  Most male dogs will not 'mark' if neutered before 6 months of age.  How do you know if a male dog is marking or urinating?  If a male dog is 'marking' (usually a male that is NOT neutered), he will only release a few drops/small amount of urine.....just enough to leave his scent on an area.  If a male is urinating (emptying his bladder), he will release much more urine and it will be evident he is simply emptying his bladder, not marking.  Whether he lifts his leg up or squats does not determine if he is marking or simply going potty.         

Coat Care - At Your Expense:  The Cocker is adorned with a beautiful, flowing coat which, unfortunately, isn't practical for running and playing outside.  This is a double-coated breed, having a fine, soft undercoat that sheds.  Sticks, twigs, grass, leaves, briars, etc. easily become entangled in the coat and are difficult to remove, not to mention time-consuming.  If your Cocker isn't a show dog, keeping him in a puppy or field trim will take the pain out of grooming for you and the dog.  Typically, the coat will need to be trimmed every 6-8 weeks.  If you aren't doing the grooming yourself, be prepared to pay a professional groomer around $47 - $50 every 8 wks. for a bath/haircut. Some groomers will charge an additional fee if the coat is matted, so regular brushing/combing at home is beneficial.  (Note:  Keeping the coat trimmed shorter does not prevent shedding). Regular brushing not only prevents tangles, it removes dead hair, stimulates the growth of new hair, and distributes the natural oils throughout the coat giving it a glossy sheen.  Go to the GROOMING page for more tips on grooming the Cocker Spaniel.

Inheritable Problems in the Breed:   Genetic health screenings can be done on adults prior to breeding to detect some of these conditions: 

- Cataracts and PRA (Progressive Retinal Atrophy ):  Causes blindness.  Eye screenings can be done by a Veterinary Ophthalmologist to detect these and other inherited eye diseases that cause blindness.  This test (CERF Exam) can be done on dogs as young as 8 weeks of age but is typically done on adult breeding stock every 6 - 12 months as long as they are part of a breeding program.  The exam results are only good for one year, so it must be repeated each year for adult dogs who are being used for breeding. 

- Hip Dysplasia:  Testing can be done once a dog is two years of age or older and should be done prior to breeding.  Results are registered with the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals (OFA).  A rating of 'fair', 'good', or 'excellent' is acceptable for breeding the dog.   

- Patella Luxation: The knee joint slips out of the socket (most common in toy breeds but can occur in Cockers).......also known as Slipped Stifle Joint.  Testing can be done on dogs 1 year of age or older by a veterinarian or a Specialist and the results are registered with the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals (OFA).  Results of "Normal" are acceptable for breeding.   

- Low Thyroid:  Can cause coat/skin/ear problems and other issues.  Thyroid testing can be done by a veterinarian on adult breeding stock prior to breeding.

- Cherry Eye:  May occur in pups 8 wks. - 6 months of age due to stress or teething.  The gland of the Cherry Eye protrudes from the corner of the eye and can be easily stitched down by a vet -- it should NOT be cut out as this can result in Dry Eye (or Keratoconjunctivitis) later in life requiring the dog to have eye drops for the rest of its life.  Although congenital, Cherry Eye does not cause blindness or discomfort to the dog as long as it is surgically corrected by a vet soon after occurrence.  

- Epileptic Seizures:  There is no testing available at this time to be done on adult dogs prior to breeding to determine if they will develop epilepsy or carry the gene to pass it on to offspring. 

- von Willebrand's Disease:  adult breeding stock can be tested for this prior to breeding but many breeders do not test for this unless there is some concern that this problem may be in their breeding lines.  

All breeds have inheritable conditions; the information provided is not meant to alarm but rather to inform.  Therefore, prior to buying a puppy, it is wise to ask the breeder for copies of all health screenings that were done on the puppy's parents.   The most common testing done in the Cocker Spaniel breed is eyes and hips.  Some breeders may choose to test patellas (knees), thyroid, and/or cardiac (heart). 

                                                 Did You Hear About The Ears?:   

Due to the Cocker's long ears, they are prone to ear infections because the weight of their heavy ears lying close to the head does not allow for good air circulation into the ear canal to keep it dry.  Care should be taken to keep the ears clean and dry inside.  See the GROOMING page for more tips on ear cleaning and care.

Take Time To Train:  The Cocker Spaniel's happy, eager-to-please attitude makes him easy to train.  Puppy training classes are excellent for socializing your puppy and helping him learn appropriate behaviors as well as strengthening the bond between puppy and new owner.  Agility training and therapy work are other areas of training that are very rewarding for both dog and owner.  Mental challenges in the form of training or teaching tricks are just as important as physical exercise -- a worthwhile investment for the new Cocker owner.  Plan on purchasing a crate for your Cocker to help with potty training.  A crate can also be a safe haven for your puppy helping to prevent inappropriate behaviors at times when he can't be closely supervised.  

Socialization:  Proper socialization is also a very important part of training.  The breed standard for the American Cocker Spaniel states that he should be "merry in temperament with no suggestion of timidity".  It is the responsibility of the breeder AND the new owner to provide the socialization that leads to this "merry" temperament.  Temperament is inherited and should always be a consideration when breeding.  It is often difficult, if not impossible, to change the temperament of a dog that is timid, shy, or a fear-biter.  Proper socialization, early on and throughout the dog's lifetime, helps the dog feel confident in new places, as well as, friendly and accepting of new people and other animals.

The Socialization Period, around 21 days old, is when a puppy's ears open and it develops a startle response to sound.  This marks the most important time in a puppy's life: the socialization period (3 - 12 weeks).  The puppy's first relationships are formed with it's dam and littermates at this time. Attachments to other animals and people also occur very rapidly without much fear.  The peak socialization period occurs at 6 - 8 weeks, when a puppy most easily forms an attachment to people.  The ages of 8 - 9 weeks and 12 - 13 weeks are referred to as the fear periods.  At these times, care should be taken to ensure that the puppy's experiences are positive, since this is a time when puppies are sensitive to distressing stimuli.  Situations that frighten, startle, or hurt the puppy during these fear periods can be difficult to help the puppy overcome.  

Lack of socialization results in a puppy who grows up to be fearful, timid, and even aggressive in situations with anything new or different.  The pup will often show distrust and may react in a threatening manner to everyday events, simply because he was not provided the opportunity to experience them at a very young age. Fact: More dogs between the ages of 1 - 2 years are euthanized due to bad temperaments and the lack of socialization than dogs that die of diseases.  Unfortunately, when owners become frustrated with common puppy/young adult behaviors (destructiveness, potty accidents, excessive barking, biting/mouthing, etc.), the dog is often relinquished to the pound.  Having had no prior training/proper socialization, the dog is not likely to be adopted by another family.  

                               Tips for Socializing Your New Puppy:

- Enroll him in a Puppy Class:  Great for socializing with people/other dogs and learning some of the basics

- Take him for car rides: Social visits to the vet or grooming salon, a friend/relative's home, a pet store, the park (NOTE:  Puppy should have at least 2 puppy vaccines before taking it outside the home environment).  

- Allow him to meet people of all ages:  Children especially, and people with different physical characteristics and different sounding voices (have the new person give the puppy a treat and a friendly greeting)

- Safely introduce him to cats; allow him to play with friendly dogs, with supervision

- Allow him to walk/stand on different surfaces:  Wet/dry grass, gravel, mud puddles, manhole covers, concrete, sand, tile floors, carpet, Astroturf, wood decks, etc.

- Expose the puppy to a variety of sounds using lots of praise and encouragement:  Radio/stereo, television, vacuum cleaner, hair dryer, dishwasher, clothes washer/dryer, musical instruments, lawn mower, clattering pots and pans, toys that make noise, the sounds of children playing, dogs barking, a car motor, a generator, etc. 

                                                          Results:

Having pleasant experiences with a variety of people, places, and things at a young age allows the puppy to adapt to change in environment and to accept unfamiliar people and situations later in life.  Proper socialization ensures your puppy will be a confident, happy, and well-adjusted member of the family......and it's a fun way to help build a strong bond and a lasting relationship between puppy and owner!

So, after researching the breeds that interest you, your decision has been narrowed down to the American Cocker Spaniel as the dog of choice, whether for show or pet.  Below are some tips to help you purchase a puppy or adult dog wisely and ensure the Cocker you choose will be healthy and happy:

Purchase from a reputable breeder who knows the AKC Breed Standard and any health problems that may be present in the breed.  A conscientious breeder will not breed dogs who are afflicted with hereditary problems and is willing to help educate the new buyer on common health problems to the Cocker breed.   Their goal will be to improve the breed, insuring all breeding stock has been tested, are in good health, meet the Breed Standard, have wonderful temperaments, and are over two years of age before being bred (some health screenings cannot be done until age two).  Beware of puppy mills - those who breed indiscriminately and seem to have puppies continually.  Their goal is to make money, not improve the breed, and often times health screenings on parents are not done, and/or puppies may not have received their first vaccines, and are sold at a very young age (5 - 6 weeks old).   

An honest breeder is willing to answer any questions, genuinely cares about the health and welfare of the puppy they sell as well as the home it will be going to.  Be prepared for the breeder to ask questions about you and/or require references.   A good breeder will want to keep in contact with the buyer to see how the puppy is progressing and will help educate the buyer about the breed, health issues, coat care, and training.

The buyer should receive a copy of CERF Eye Exam papers for both parents, stating that they are free of cataracts and hereditary eye diseases that cause blindness.  (CERF results are only good for 1 year from the date of the exam; check the date of exam on the CERF papers to be certain it is current).  Also, the buyer should receive a copy of OFA Hip Certification papers for both parents, stating that they are free of hip dysplasia (ideally, the OFA ratings should be "excellent" or "good";  "fair" is acceptable, but don't you really want the best?).  The buyer should request copies of the parents' eye and hip papers before purchasing a puppy.  Some breeders also do thyroid testing, patella (knee) certification through OFA, or other types of tests. 

Temperament is hereditary so it is important to meet the parents (or any relatives of the litter) before selecting a puppy.  The parents/relatives, as well as the pups in the litter, should be friendly and outgoing.  Beware of purchasing a puppy whose sire or dam shows signs of aggressiveness, fear-biting, or is timid/shy.  There may be times when the bitch was shipped out of state to be bred, making it impossible to see the sire.  In this case, the breeder may have pictures of the sire.

Be prepared to pay the price for a healthy, well-bred Cocker.  In general, prices ranging from $400 and up for pet quality and $800 or more for show quality are not uncommon among Cocker breeders (this is NOT a price quote for Ky-Ann Cockers).  The buyer is responsible for shipping costs if the puppy will be shipped.   A conscientious breeder will sell pet quality puppies on a spay/neuter contract, possibly with limited registration.  

At the time of purchase, the buyer should receive a written sales contract/health guarantee, vaccination records for the puppy, AKC registration papers, the puppy's pedigree, eye and hip certification papers for both parents (and copies of any other health screenings done on the parents).  To confirm your new puppy is in good health, it is wise to take the puppy for a full veterinary exam within 48 hours of purchase.  With the purchase of a show quality puppy, it is beneficial to also obtain copies of the grandparents' eye and hip papers (and any other health screenings done on the grandparents) for purposes of breeding your pup in the future (after age two).  

Beware of the breeder who claims that AKC has not sent them the registration papers yet for the LITTER!!  This should send up a red warning flag to the buyer.  There is ample time between the date the puppies are whelped to the time when they are sold, for the breeder to have registered the litter and received registration papers from AKC (it only takes about 3 weeks).   AKC registration papers are an identifying factor for the puppy, indicating its sire, dam, date of birth, color/sex, the breeder's name, and the buyer as its new owner.  Do not pay money for a puppy (show or pet) with a promise from the breeder that the registration papers will come at a later date.  There is one exception:  At Ky-Ann Cockers, pet quality puppies sold on a spay/neuter agreement will not come with AKC registration papers at the time of sale -- AKC registration papers will be sent to the new owner when proof of spay/neuter in writing from a vet is sent to me, the breeder.