KOAC Trail Magic Weekend- April 16/17 2005

Plum Orchard Gap Shelter

You start with a bright blue sky, add warm Spring weather, toss in colorful wildflowers drive to a well worn hiking trail and you have the perfect atmosphere for Trail Magic! The 2005 Trail Magic activities have had all kinds of weird and unusual twists. So who could have figured that a trip that started to look as though it would be “a bust” for hikers would end with a big bang at the finish? But let’s not digress to the end yet!

Trail Magic traditionally is planned for the first weekend of April and Tray Mountain is the ideal site for Trail Magic with great views, handy campsites nearby and easy Forest Service access. This year, however, April 2 and 3 had weather that was most uncooperative. The weather on Tray Mountain that weekend was reported to be 50+ mph sustained winds with sleet and snow falling in blizzard like conditions all day and night.

Pete and Sue Buak have kept in contact with several 2004 thru-hikers. Two hikers who met last year and enjoyed each other’s company, Flashhand, born deaf and mute, and Sal Paradise, trained in American Sign Language are rehiking the trail this year! It was learned by Sue that Flashhand had started several days ahead of Sal and Sal was determined to catch up with him. It was possible they would be in the Plum Orchard Shelter area on April 16. Sal promised to leave a message in the shelter register if they had met up and had already passed through by that date.

Tom Hall’s annual Cow Rock Mountain day hike on the Appalachian Trail was scheduled for April 16. As the club had already purchased the food for the aborted Trail Magic on April 3, it was suggested that KOAC take advantage of being in the Northeast GA area and host Trail Magic festivities at the Plum Orchard Gap Shelter after the Cow Rock day hike. Plum Orchard Shelter can be reached by Forest Service Road and would be as close for day sherpas to reach on foot as Tray Mountain Shelter. The combined trips were approved.

This year’s Trail Sherpas were Scott Fredericks, Jean Carrier, Bill McMichen, Sara Martin, Marvin Crutchfield, Tom Hall, and Kathy Collier along with the Camper/Cooks Don Beavers and Sue and Pete Buak. All warmed their Sherpa hiking legs with a short but heart thumping warm-up day hike to the summit of Cowrock Mountain. Tom Hall’s son and his wife were along on this adventure as well. The group encouraged them to hike again in the future.

The group enjoyed lunch on Cow Rock under the bright blue cloudless sky offering clear views from mountaintop sitting rocks. Hoping to meet northbound thru-hikers, several right on cue wandered through the lunch area. Three pretty young fillies pranced by on their way to Maine. Shortly after, a handsome young hiker stopped to talk and when told that he just missed meeting 3 pretty hikers, he grabbed his hiking stick and took off like a shot down the trail.

After lunch, the group drove to Blue Ridge Gap (near Hiawassee, GA) to begin the 1.3 mile southbound walk on the Appalachian Trail to Plum Orchard Gap. As usual, the Appalachian Trail leaves the road and the trail immediately heads up and over some tall precipice. In this case it is called, As Knob, and most people, after finishing the ascent and descent, assume the name is missing an extra “s”.

April 16 is nearing the end of the northbound hiker season and there was some concern that no one would stop at Plum Orchard Gap Shelter that night. This concern was heightened when several thru-hikers approached us on the trail after they had passed by the shelter. They indicated that a large group of scouts had set up camp in and around the shelter making it impossible for others to share the facilities. These hikers were seeking campsites where ever they could find them to avoid the chaos.

Shortly before reaching the blue blazed side trail leading to the shelter, a group of sour faced scouts moped past heading out on a dayhike to the NC border. (It was assumed these were the shelter rats and we confirmed our assumption when we reached the shelter itself and found the encampment guarded by two nearly comatose scouts in the last stages of boredom.)

Sue had printed an announcement that read “Food at Shelter” and had a large arrow pointing the direction. As we stood near the wooden sign deciding the best way to affix our notice, we spotted a tent nearby just off the trail. Scattered in a ring around the tent were an assortment of hiking items that suggested that the occupant(s) had been there awhile. A thin scruffy fellow trudged hesitantly uphill toward us. When asked if he was hiking north, the fellow reluctantly offered guarded answers but eventually warmed up when he learned that we were hauling food!

When Sue introduced herself as “Mother Nature”, the hiker introduced himself as “Seiko”. Instantly recognizing the name as one of legendary status on the Appalachian Trail, Sue became very excited and startled the man by giving him a hug! Seiko, in some ways, is a trail myth. He is known to be the hiker who has logged the most miles ever hiked on the AT, and he estimates over 60,000 miles at this point. (Later in the evening, he informed us that this is his 25th hike.) His name appears in the journals of other hikers who recognize him but he tries to stay below hiker radar and just enjoy the walk. He told us that for the first 20 years he changed trail names every year for anonymity but for the past five years he just can’t shake the name Seiko. Since he usually travels fast and discreetly avoids shelters if filled with hikers and never signs trail registers, few people know where he is at any given time. When recognized, he is more than willing to help new hikers with questions about the trail itself, but he won’t share much information about his personal life and himself. Seiko appeared to be very comfortable in our camp and spent supper and breakfast with us. Respecting his privacy, we won’t share the personal information that he willingly shared about himself with us. We can mention that he has found a hiking partner for the first time in 25 years and seems very happy to try and train the two rambunctious dogs that come with this union. His partner has a badly sprained ankle and they are slowly working their way toward North Carolina where I expect the dogs will be sent home.

The Plum Orchard Gap Shelter is a beautifully crafted structure with triple sleeping platforms. The Sherpas inspected the area dodging Boy Scout gear and completely ignored by the two scouts. One scout lay in mourning on his bedroll in the upper loft and the other sat morosely on the edge of the shelter reluctantly responding to conversation in nearly uncomprehendable dialogue.

To our dismay, we discovered that there was no shelter register. Sue and Pete had been to this shelter in late January and they had signed a new register at that time. It seems to have become commonplace for weekenders and uncaring hikers to burn the registers to start fires. Sue and Pete had recently found the new registers at Blue Mountain Shelter and Tray Mountain Shelters had also been reduced to several torn sheets of paper. Trail Registers are a primary source of information and communication between and about trail hikers. If there was a message for Sue and Pete from Sal and Flashhand it had been destroyed.

Despite the wonderful weather, the group felt a little out of kilter with the situation but it was decided to turn the lemons into lemonade. The day sherpas appeared apprehensive about dumping their food stores along side a long log in the middle of an overgrown campsite. The Cooks assured them that everything was wonderful. Awkward, but wonderful! Every day is great day if you are in the woods! If no other hikers arrive, just the opportunity to commune with Seiko and his partner would make this a great trip!

The Cooks want to assure the Sherpas that their efforts were not done in vain! Our numbers fed this year were fewer than normal but those fed were so appreciative! The location and timing of this Trail Magic made it truly trail MAGIC for hikers we fed. This group was struggling to get into a groove and found themselves nearing the North Carolina border, discouraged and faltering in their minds. The faster hikers had blown by them and they felt abandoned in the waves. For Seiko, finding a hiking partner and slowing down meant he was able to participate in Trail Magic, something he says he has rarely encountered during his 25 years on the trail. He ate like a man who had been living on the island with Tom Hanks in the movie, Shipwrecked. Seiko and his partner had been rationing food while the ankle healed enough to continue

Shortly after we selected our tenting spots and sat on the ground with a bag of chips for company, a lone hiker came down the trail, lured in by the promise of a hot meal. Scotty Two Lite joined the trio on the ground and it is a rare event that one hiker can consume so much oxygen to completely silence any other conversation. It is unimaginable that both Mother Nature and Mailman can be rendered speechless. On Sunday, when Scotty Two Lite vanished from view, Mailman’s only comment as he stared at the still moving dust behind the disappearing hiker.. “That man has GOT to find him a hiking partner! He he’s had conversation bottled up for days!”

Around twilight on Saturday night, when it was determined that there was little chance any other hikers would wander down the trail, the food was gathered to be hung for the night. It was soon obvious Smokestack’s oversized food bag was not going to hold all the food. A garbage bag was found and the lighter items moved into it. By the time the garbage bag neared the shelter, the plastic handles were getting thinner and thinner from the weight. Sue suggested that the load on the bag be lightened and the opened bags of chips and cookies should be given to the scouts who undoubtedly could use a little cheering up.

As we approached the shelter, the eyes of the group turned to us. The group became very quiet… uncertain if we were friend or foe. Sue reached into the garbage bag and held up a bag of chips. When she asked, “Would you like these chips?” The scouts seem to come alive. Surprisingly controlled, they stared longingly at the garbage bag as though it contained the secrets of life. When cookies appeared, they just about jumped out of their skins. Within minutes, the scouts had gathered the goodies onto the picnic table and the atmosphere around the shelter turned into a lively party. Scotty Too Lite, Mailman, Mother Nature and Smokestack joined the scout group for conversation lasting until well after bedtime!

It was a wonderful night for sleeping…cool, dry and lit with a bright moon. On Sunday morning, the food was gathered and the two cook stoves were set up anticipating a new batch of hikers. Seiko and partner had decided to pack up and limp northward to a new campsite that day. We had arranged a good time to cook their breakfast in the morning and right on time they came down the trail beaming smiles. The dogs romped around and chased shadows and insects and occasionally stole unguarded food. This action brought prompt discipline from Seiko who was clearly mortified at the dogs’ undignified manners. The larger dog had such an expressive face and seemed so shocked that it was in trouble. Seiko clearly seemed happy and determined to prove the dogs’ master and the dogs seemed happy to be dogs and enjoying the day.

With the dogs, Seiko and partner, and Scotty Too Lite still talking (he hadn’t stopped since he arrived. In his sleep he seemed to be roaring something), it was a bit chaotic but fun. Squatting before the camp stoves, everything clearly out of control, flipping eggs, frying sausage, toasting bagles in olive oil, tossing apples, oranges and bananas through the air at hungry hikers, it seemed too soon that everyone left and it was suddenly… quiet! The Cooks sat and ate their own breakfasts and silently wondering … “is this it? Will others come?”

Soon the sound of clicking hiking sticks could be heard. A hiker teased by the sign at the trailhead decided to come down the hill to see if the sign was for real. Slowly, hesitantly, not certain, they would creep down the trail. Sue would shout, “ Come on down! We have sausage, eggs, toast if want breakfast, hot dogs and beans if you want lunch and everything if you want brunch!” The hiker would speed up and soon devour his share. This scene was repeated until about 2 pm when the food was nearly gone and it was time to pick up and head back to the cars.

Most of these hikers had been hiking alone missing trail companionship. Leaving Springer, stronger hikers tend to associate or bond together. The slower or less fit hikers, struggling to make shorter goals, often can’t make it shelter to shelter and feel isolated from the experience. We met Matt, Doug, Raj, Seth and Skywalker on Sunday. We had them pose for photos eating the food so we could share with the KOAC Sherpas. They left fed and feeling better after learning the names of others currently walking just a few minutes ahead of them. They undoubtedly crossed paths Sunday evening and very likely will have started to form a new bond and soon will inherit trail names. Of all the Trail Magic we have done, this seemed so unrehearsed and natural. It has been nice in the past to have the shelter for cooking and conversation but there was something especially touching about the hikers we helped this year.

The Cooks returned to Blue Ridge Gap to discover some unexpected action and adventure for themselves.

Blue Ridge Gap is on Upper Hightower Road just outside Hiawassee, GA. Leaving civilization, the paved road turns to dirt road and is reported in most trail guides as abandoned. The narrow road twists upward and around the mountain on tight curves with limited visibility crossing through the center of a small parking spot at the marked crossing on the Appalachian Trail at Blue Ridge Gap. The road then continues down the other side in the same twisty fashion.

Sue and Pete are Trail Maintainers for the Appalachian Trail. Their 2.5 mile section of the trail begins at this parking spot and heads northward to the North Carolina border. They travel this road frequently and rarely see other vehicles either parked at the Gap or passing through.

Smokestack and Mailman had pulled their trucks one behind the other as best they could in the small space to the right of the road at the Gap. Sunday afternoon as they descended into Blue Ridge Gap to head home, the sound of numerous off road vehicles could be heard approaching. Seven dirt bikes came to a halt to the left side of the road and the bikers stared in amazement at the hikers. While the resting bikers chatted with the hikers, a sudden explosive roar appeared and a wildly racing and out of control truck careened around the corner. Startled to find the Gap filled with people the truck nearly rolled over as the driver struggled to gain control and narrowly managed to pass between the bikers and hikers. The hikers and bikers gathered in the road and stared after the truck with horror and shock. Suddenly the sound of a second truck was heard and everyone scrambled to a safe spot. If possible this vehicle, chasing the first was traveling even faster and came through the corner on two wheels and nearly went off the road. Again somehow, the second truck careened past everyone without injury. Too stunned to react and thankfully still hanging onto the trees they had climbed for safety, a third truck appeared and blasted past. As the dust finally settled, nerves calmed, the bikers decided it was time to get out of there!

The three hikers also deciding that they had had enough excitement for one day prepared to make their exit out of there as well. As they started to leave in their trucks they heard a vehicle coming and waited for it to pass. A bright red jeep driven by an elderly gentleman came quickly around the corner and just as suddenly stopped as though it has run into a brick wall. In the instant that it stopped, a loud explosion was heard under the hood and a giant blast of steam burst skyward. Amazed at the scene, we saw four people in the jeep sitting bolt upright, staring straight ahead, apparently as shocked as we were. It seemed like hours before anyone took a breath and no one moved until the jeep heaved it’s last sigh. The doors slowly opened revealing two hikers who had been driven to the trailhead and two elderly trail angels now driving a crippled jeep. It was the final straw in a tragic comedy and suddenly everyone burst out laughing from pent up energy. It just didn’t seem possible that anything else could have happened after the dirt bikes and the raging trucks.

After a lengthy chat, we learned the hikers were a pair of newly retired sailors planning to hike their first section of the Appalachian Trail. I am sure they hadn’t expected the send off they received! As they headed north, the injured jeep was turned around and coasted down the hill to a safe spot and left to die. Sue and Pete loaded up the elderly folks in their truck and drove them to their other vehicle parked near Cleveland.

In retrospect, this has been the most memorable Trail Magic. We hope that those who read this story can feel the humor, the drama and the fellowships we experienced during these past two days.




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