Kawasaki KLR 250
(The Website for the KLR Jr.)
KLR250 LINKS |
STUFF for SALE |
The information you need to help you keep your KLR250 running, whether you are at home or on the trail.
!WARNING! Not working on your KLR can kill it, and working on your KLR can kill it also, and injure you in the process. If you are not
absolutely sure of what you are doing, don't do it! It will be cheaper in the long run to find a mechanic, than kill it yourself from neglect or
improper maintenance. And to paraphrase Dr. Phil, if you break it (through ignorance or misdirection), you own it.
What's in Your KLR250 Tool kit?
Made successful trailside repairs with your toolkit? What size
wrenches do you carry? Share your secrets about what you need or
don't need to carry in Jr.'s fender bag.
- spare hose clamp(s)
- piece of innertube to use with spare hose clamp as radiator hose patch
- brake lever (or use lever guards)
- 21" front tire inner tube (can be used in the rear in emergency)
- Aerostitch TITANIUM tire irons. Full size tire irons that are strong and almost unbelievably light!
Worth every penny.
- JB-Weld or your favorite two part epoxy
- Your favorite candy bar. Months later when you unpack your toolkit on the trail and find it, all smashed and
half melted, it will still look delicious.
- Small rag. You can wrap your tools in it, lay your parts on it, and it is handy to wipe chocolate off your fingers with.
Spark Plug Removal
Here is a nice tool-tip someone sent in. Ever tried to remove your spark plug? Can't get the darn socket in there can you
(unless you have the light duty stamped tin ones that come in the toolkit)? Solution: Go out and get yourself a Champion 809(RA6HC)
spark plug (or equivalent). Same plug as stock, except with a 16mm head instead of the 18mm.
Serious Skid Plate
Ever lamented the lack of protection the stock "skid plate" provides? Here is a solution
from Robert in California.
One of the top five questions I get is "Do you have a wiring diagram?" Well, here are two that I made, one which covers only the cooling
fan circuit, and one which covers the ignition circuit; if anyone has one that covers the entire bike, or another section, (and won't violate copyright
laws like a scan from the manual would) many folks would be greatful if you would send it along!
This Fan Circuit Wiring Diagram might help you diagnose your bike's cooling problem.
This Ignition Wiring Diagram might help make your bike spark-le.
Valve clearance inspection is called for at 800 Kilometers (about 500 miles) and then every 5,000 Kilometers (about 3,000 miles) thereafter;
although given that valve train failures are probably the most common cause of death for the KLR250 engine more frequent checks might be prudent,
particularly between the 800K and 5,000K period when the valves may still be "seating" themselves.
Setting the valve clearances is not difficult, but doing it improperly can result in the destruction of the engine in short order. Ignoring
them would be a false economy, the money and time spent on a visit to a mechanic for a valve adjustment is far less than what you would end up
spending on an engine rebuild.
Feel free to submit fhotos that could accompany these instructions. Hey, what do you know, someone did! Thanks!
The engine must be cold, that is to say, room temperature.
Unhook the gas line from the petcock (make sure it is turned off and have a container around in case it leaks).
- A. The side panels, seat, and gas tank (no smoking, and put it in a safe, ventilated area, like outside), and think about an inline fuel filter.
- B. Upper rear cylinder head-to-frame bracket.
- C. The two access plugs on the magneto cover (left side of the crankcase).
- D. Remove the valve cover...the manual says you need to remove the fan, but I found that I did not, but did need to loosen or remove the
- With the correct size socket inserted in the lower magneto access hole, rotate the engine counterclockwise while observing the intake valves/rocker
arms (the ones near the rear/carb). Once you have seen the intake valves open and close, turn your attention to the upper magneto access hole.
Continue to turn the engine counterclockwise (about 1/3 revolution) until the "T" mark on the magneto is in line with the notch in the bottom of
the access hole.
- Measure the clearance of each valve by inserting the proper feeler gauge between the valve and adjuster screw.
- Valve Clearance (engine cold) should be: 0.20-0.24mm (.008-.009inches) for BOTH intake and exhaust.
NOTE: The rocker arms are siamesed, so if both of the intake (or exhaust) valves are tight, adjusting one, then the other won't always set them to
specifications. It is best (in my opinion) to loosen BOTH before adjusting the clearance.
- Adjust as necessary by loosining the locknut (use a six point socket if you can, to avoid rounding the corners off) and turning the adjuster to
achieve the correct clearance. Tighten the locknut to 18 ft-lb and recheck the clearance; sometimes it takes several tries to get it right. Do it
until they are all within tolerances, too loose or too tigh is not acceptable (but too tight is worse, if you must know).
- Double check it, then look over the KACR (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release) to make sure it looks OK and is not eating at the case, and
reassemble. Torque the valve cover bolts to just 69 INCH-lb (or it will leak or crack) and head-to-frame mount bolts to 22 ft-lb.
Valvetrain/Cam Chain Timing
Feel free to send in some photos to illustrate this procedure.
FOR THE CAM CHAIN:
For the balancer chain alignment.
- With the magneto cover, magneto, and left engine cover removed:
(note that the chain has 4 sideplates that are "plated" a different color - one set of two, and two singles)
- Position the crankshaft at TDC.
- Engage the rear balancer sproket punch mark with the balancer chain single plated link (the one farthest from the double).
- Install the rear balancer sprocket coupling punch mark aligned with the balancer shaft punch mark.
- Engage the front balancer sprocket punch mark with the balancer chain's paired plated links.
- The punchmark on the (middle) crankshaft sprocket should line up with the last (middle) plated link.
- Make sure that the two sprockets with the spring "coupling" mechanisms each have all three punch marks and the plated link in alignment; the one on the shaft, the one on the inner hub (can't see it in the picture, but it looks like it is near or behind one of the springs), the one on the outer cog, and the plated chain link.
- There is a diagram in the manual showing it all lined up with the front sproket marks pointing to about 3:30, the crank sproket to about 11:30, and the rear one to about 5:00.
Got info? Helpful comments? Send it to Me.
KLR250 LINKS |
STUFF for SALE |